CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 



A GUIDE 
FOR VISITORS 



FUEIJSHED BY THE 

SAN FRANCISCO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 



FRICE 



CENTS 




1 



Class __E1M. 
Book___i_ 



CopightN". 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 




JUNIPERO SERKA, FATHER OF THE CALIFORNIA MISSIONS. 



THE 

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 

HANDBOOK 

FOiH 

SAN FRANCISCO 



Historical and Descriptive 



A GUIDE FOR VISITORS 



Published by the 

San Francisco Chamber of Commerce 

under diredlion of the 

Publicity Committee 



Written and Compiled 

by 

FRANK MORTON TODD 



SAN FRANCISCO 
1914 



I- 1 



Copyright 1914 by the 
San Francisco Chamber of Commerce 



M 14 1914 



/ 



CI.A3G157J 



CONTENTS 

Page 

MAP OF SAN FRANCISCO Inside of Back Cover 

Showing parks, car lines and different points of interest. 

INTRODUCTORY 5 

SAN FRANCISCO— HISTORICAL SKETCH 6 

Spanish and English Navigators; Mission, Presidio, Pueblo; 
Gold; the Vigilance Committee; Comstock Days; Railroad 
Building; Fire and Reconstruction; Present Population. 

SAN FRANCISCO— IN GENERAL 18 

Setting of San Francisco, and the Bay. Climate. 

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS ; MONEY 22 

BRING NO FRUIT INTO CALIFORNIA 29 

GETTING UP TOWN 30 

How^ to Reach the Hotel Section from Ferry, Dock or Railway 
Depot. Taxicab, Hack and Automobile Fares to Hotels. 

GETTING YOUR BAGGAGE UP TOWN 31 

How to Avoid Delay and Risk of Loss. 

HOTELS 32 

Quality of San Francisco Hostelries. List of Fifty of the best 
in all classes, with Locations, rates and directions for reaching 
them. 

TOURIST AGENCIES, VALIDATING OFFICES. GEN- 
ERAL LOCATION OF TICKET OFFICES 46 

BATHS AND NATATORIA 47 

Swimming baths and Hammams. 

RESTAURANTS, CAFES, GRILLS 50 

The Famous French Restaurants of San Francisco. Mexican 
and Italian Restaurants, German Grills. The After-Theater 
Cafes. 

WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO 

I. An Hour's Walk in the Downtown District, from Lotta's 
Fountain. The Diamond Palace, Stock Exchange, Impor- 
tant Buildmgs, Interestmg Shops, Union Square, down 
Market Street to Lotta's Fountain again. Heights of Tall 
Buildings in San Francisco 59 

II. Chinatown — the People; their Manners, Customs, Habits, 
Character, Religious Worship. Chinese Homes, a Funeral, 
a Wedding. Bazaars, Restaurants, Chinese Telephone 
Exchange, Joss Houses. Chinese Printing Shop 67 

III. The Waterfront and Telegraph Hill. Shipping from All 
the Oceans ; Whalers ; Literature these scenes have inspired ; 
Ferry Building: the Old Grain Sheds; Marine Reporting 
Station of the Chamber of Commerce; Fishermen's Wharf. 
The Panorama of the whole scene from the top of Tele- 
graph Hill. Back to the center of the city through the 
Latin Quarter 83 

I 



Page 

IV. Produce Commission District, Nob Hill and Russian Hill. 
United Slates Custom House, Appraiser's Building, Old 
Mansions of Nob Hill, Fairmont Hotel, Russian Hill and 
its fine Views 88 

HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO BY TROLLEY and Cable 91 

1 . Nob Hill, Golden Gale, Land's End, Sutro Heights, Sutro 
Baths, Cliff House and Seal Rocks 93 

2. Market Street, Affiliated Colleges, and the Heights Over- 
looking the Sunset District, the Golden Gate and the Pacific 
Ocean 98 

3. Nob Hill, Chinatown, Fishermen's Wharf, Crab and Fish 
Market, North Beach, Latin Quarter, Stevenson Monument 
Portsmouth Square, Hall of Justice 101 

4. Presidio, and Exposition Site, by way of O'Farrell Street 
and the Retail and Apartment House Districts, returning 

by Fillmore Street Cable, Nob Hill and Powell Street 105 

5. Union Iron Works, Potrero, Islais Creek, Bay View, 
Visitacion Valley, Returning through the Mission 108 

6. San Mateo and return. Drives out of San Mateo to Crystal 
Springs Lake, Stanford University, Pescadero and other 
points 110 

7. Ocean Beach and the Great Highway via Mission street, 
passing the Mint, Post Office, National Guard Armory, 
Mission District, Sutro Forest, and Lake Merced; Return- 
ing through Parkside and the Sunset District, and Mounting 

the S!opes«of Twin Peaks 112 

8. Buena Vista Park, with its view over the City, Bay and 
Ocean 114 

9. By Sight-seeing Car of the United Railroads 115 

CHURCHES AND DIVINE SERVICE 116 

How to Reach Churches of all leading Denominations, with 
Times of Holding Services. 

THEATERS 127 

San Francisco as a Theater city. Some Artists whose Stage 
Careers began here. Names and Locations of the Leading 
Theaters, Character of Entertainment offered, and prices. 
Public Auditoriums. 

SIGHT-SEEING AUTOMOBILE CARS 131 

MONUMENTS AND LANDMARKS— THE BANK EX- 
CHANGE 131 

Donahue Monument, Lotta's Fountain, all the Monuments in the 
Parks and Squares; Portsmouth Square, the Montgomery Block, 
the Bank Exchange with its traditions of Bret Harte and Mark 
Twain; Where Stevenson studied San Francisco 

LONE MOUNTAIN AND THE OLD CEMETERIES..... 139 

The "Hill of Awe." Cyclorama of the City. The Necropolis, 
with Tombs of famous San Franciscans and builders of empire 
in the West. 

II 



Page 

MISSION DOLORES 144 

Altars, "Bells of the Past," Former Wealth of the Mission, the 
Cemetery and the Graves of Governor Arguello, "Yankee 
Sullivan" and James P. Casey. 

GOLDEN GATE PARK 149 

Main features noted. Westward to the "Gjoa" and the Ocean 

Beach. 
MEMORIAL MUSEUM, GOLDEN GATE PARK 156 

Character of the Exhibits; California Painters, and old Masters 

in the Galleries. 
INSTITUTE OF ART 160 

School of Design. Paintings in the Collection. 

MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY— "MAN AND HIS 

WORKS" 161 

Primitive Man. Distribution of the California Indian Tribes. 

Free Lectures. Grecian, Egyptian and Peruvian Remains. A 

Contemporary "Uncontaminated Savage." 
CALIFORNIA DEVELOPMENT BOARD 164 

Exhibit Hall and Free Lecture Room. Finest California Fruits 

on Display. Large Relief Map of the State. Literature Mailed 

on Request. 
STATE MINING BUREAU 166 

Large and Beautiful Mineral Collection. Models of Mills and 

Mines. 

UNITED STATES MINT 167 

How Money is Coined in the Leading Mining State. Private 

Coining. 
POST OFFICE BUILDING— UNITED STATES COURT 

HOUSE 171 

Most Ornate Post Office building in the Country. Postal 

Statistics. 
HALL OF JUSTICE 172 

Criminal Courts, Police Headquarters, Model City Prison. 
CIVIC CENTER 175 

Future Home of City and County Offices; City Hall, Opera 

House, Auditorium, Library and State Building. 

PANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION 1 77 

MARKETS 180 

Products of the Locality. Food Distribution. Colombo Market. 

FLOWER VENDING ON THE SIDEWALKS 182 

LINCOLN PARK AND FORT MILEY 184 

The old City Cemetery. Chinese Mortuary Chapels. A Superb 

View of the Golden Gate and Western Part of the City. 
FORT MASON AND THE TRANSPORT DOCKS 188 

Beauties of Black Point. Largest General Quartermaster's 

Supply Depot in the Country. Sailing Days of the Troopships. 
ALCATRAZ ISLAND 189 

"The Rock." The Prison and the Lighthouse. 

Ill 



Page 

SAN FRANCISCO IN BOOKS 190 

Famous Writers that have Developed here, and Translated the 
Spirit of the Locality into Literature. History. 

LIBRARIES 192 

Public, Mechanics-Mercantile, French, Polish, Mining, Tabard 
Inn, Booklovers', Paul Elder's. 

BOOK STORES, NEW AND OLD 198 

Where French, German, Spanish and Italian Books can be had. 
Elder's, Robertson's. 

THE PRESS 199 

Some Distinguished Journalists whose careers began here. 

BANKS AND FINANCE 203 

Financial Strength of the City. Beauty of some of the Bank 
Buildings. 

SOME FRATERNAL AND ASSOCIATION BUILDINGS.. 208 
Masonic Temple building, and others. 

EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES 210 

Heavy State disbursements for Education. The Public School 
System. 

UNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES 212 

Professional Schools in San Francisco. Great Universities close 
at hand. 

HOSPITALS AND SANATORIA 218 

Modern Institutions of the Rebuilt City. 

TELEGRAPH AND CABLE OFFICES 221 

SAN FRANCISCO'S PRINCIPAL STEAMSHIP CONNEC- 
TIONS 222 

CLUBS AND SOCIETIES 223 

Leading Social Organizations: Bohemian Club and the Grove 
Play; Commonwealth Club and Political Research; Camera 
Club and Photographic Facilities ; Sierra Club and Mountaineer- 
ing Information. 

COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS 231 

Chamber of Commerce and the Grain Pit. 

SPORTS 233 

Salmon Fishing at the Golden Gate. Steelhead Fishing near 
San Francisco. Fly Casting, Hunting, Trap Shooting, Base- 
ball, Football, Cricket, Track and Field Athletics, Yachting, 
Rowing, Harness Racing, Horseback Riding, Winter Polo, 
Year 'Round Golf and Tennis, Mountaineering from San 
Francisco. 

ROUND ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO 253 

EXCURSIONS ON THE BAY 254 

FERRY LINES, BAY AND RIVER STEAMBOATS 254 

CITIES OF THE EAST SHORE 257 

IV 



Page 

KEY TROLLEY TRIP 262 

PIEDMONT PARK AND THE HAVENS ART COLLEC- 
TION 263 

BERKELEY, THE UNIVERSITY, THE HEARST GREEK 

THEATER 265 

Scenic Ride, the Christian Science Church. 

RICHMOND, A NEW INDUSTRIAL GROWTH 269 

SAN LEANDRO AND LAKE CHABOT 268 

SAUSALITO, FORT BAKER AND FORT BARRY 270 

MT. TAMALPAIS AND MUIR WOODS 275 

MARIN AND SONOMA COUNTIES 280 

The Triangle Trip. Santa Rosa and the Home Farm of 
Luther Burbank. Russian River. Inverness and Tomales Bay. 

MARE ISLAND NAVY YARD 285 

UP THE NAPA VALLEY 286 

Typical CaHfornia Wine Country. The Petrified Forest. 

NETHERLANDS ROUTE UP THE SACRAMENTO RIVER 288 
Bay and River Scenery. Longest Wire Span in the World. 

RIVER, RAIL AND RIVER, TO SACRAMENTO AND 
STOCKTON 292 

SAN JOSE AND THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY 294 

MT. HAMILTON AND THE LICK OBSERVATORY 296 

DOWN THE OCEAN SHORE 298 

SANTA CRUZ AND ITS BIG TREES 299 

DEL MONTE, MONTEREY, PACIFIC GROVE 300 

SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, MOST INTERESTING OF THE 
MISSIONS 303 

YOSEMITE 306 

BIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA 309 

LAKE TAHOE, AND DESOLATION VALLEY 311 

The Wondrous Mountain Lake. The Garden of Granite. 

AUTOMOBILING IN AND FROM SAN FRANCISCO 315 

TAXICAB AND AUTOMOBILE RATES 336 

STREET CAR ROUTES 337 




"t^^ 




Waters, photo. 

LLOYD LAKE AND THE "PORTALS OF THE PAST," GOLDEN GATE 

PARK. 




(Z 




-SS^ 



IM 






Historical Sketch 



IN THE BEGINNING. 

Born a drowsy Spanish hamlet, fed on the intoxicants of a 
gold rush, developed by an adventurous commerce and a 
baronial agriculture, isolated throughout its turbulent history 
from the home lands of its diverse peoples and compelled to 
the outworking of its own ethical and social standards, San 
Francisco has evolved an individuality and a versatility 
beyond any other American city. 

It mellowed the Puritan and disciplined the Cavalier. It 
appropriated the song and art of the Latin. Every good thing 
that Anglo-Saxon, Celt, Gaul, Iberian, Teuton or Mongolian 
had to offer it seized upon and made part of its life. 

San Francisco is today peculiarly the cosmopolitan city. 
Because its social elements are still so near their equal sources, 
and opportunity still beckons every man of talent, it is also 
the democratic city. And in spiritual freedom and forward 
impulse and the vivid hope of great achievement it is the one 
renaissance city of the present day. 

Here is no thraldom to the past, but a trying of all things 
on their merits, and a searching of every proposal or estab- 
lished institution by the one test: Will it make life happier? 

It is to help the visitor understand, appreciate and enjoy 
this debonair metropolis with its surpassingly beautiful en- 
virons that this handbook is issued. We know that you will 
find here what you never found and never can find elsewhere. 
We shall try to augment your pleasure in it by indicating 
something of its origin in the city's romantic past. We shall 
give you your bearings, in time and place. We shall en- 
deavor to show you the way, and smooth it for you too. We 
shall tell you what to seek and how to find it, and possibly 
what it may mean when you have found it. In short, we 
shall try to make you see why San Francisco is "the city loved 
around the world," and by its own people best of all. 



Handbool^ for San Francisco 



SAN FRANCISCO— HISTORICAL SKETCH. 

So vital to operations in the Pacific is the port of San Fran- 
cisco that it became an objective of international strategy nearly 
a century and a half ago. The need was recognized long 
before the bay was known, for the harbor was then uncharted, 
and its name belonged to that outer indentation of the coast 
now called the Gulf of the Farallones, stretching from Point 
San Pedro on the south to Point Reyes on the north, and 
mcluding the cove where Drake careened his vessel, to the 
northward of the Golden Gate. 

In the North Pacific the dawn of civilization was slow. 
The dim light of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries shows 
us the shadowy sails of the yearly treasure galleon bound from 
Acapulco to Manila and sailing down the California coast 
on its return, a few English privateers lying in wait for it, 
and little else on that whole waste of water. 

The galleon needed a port of call, and in 1 769 Jose de 
Galvaez, Spain's "visitador" in Mexico, knowing the Rus- 
sians were coming down from the north and hearing rumors 
of English and French approaching from the east, determined 
on an active campaign for colonizing the coast of California, 
and especially that Bahia de Puerto de San Francisco which 
Vizcaino had mapped by that name in 1 603. 

San Francisco still occupies its vital position in relation 
to trade routes. If we substitute Panama for Acapulco, and 
full-powered steam vessels, capable of bucking headwinds, 
for the unwieldy sailing craft of old, we can appreciate to 
what degree this city is the key to the commerce of the Pacific ; 
for it lies so close to the Great Circle route from Panama to 
Yokohama, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hong Kong and the Straits 
that to drop in at this port lengthens the run between Panama 
and Yokohama by only 1 63 nautical miles, an inconsiderable 
matter in a total of 7650. 

DISCOVERY OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY. 

Several expeditions were dispatched northward, to estab- 
lish stations. One of these, under command of Don Gaspar 



Historical Sketch 



de Portola, governor of the Californias, left San Diego in 
July, 1 769, bound overland for Monterey, but overshot it 
and fetched the Bay of San Francisco instead. 

It was November. The rains had begun. The expedi- 
tion had been nearly four months on the march. It had been 
scourged by famine and scurvy. Provisions were down to 
acorns. Portola himself was ill. In poor condition the party 
lingered a few days in the vicinity of San Francisquito creek, 
where Stanford University now stands, while Sergeant Jose 
Francisco Ortega, chief of scouts, explored the country to 
the northward and thus was probably the first white man to 
see the Golden Gate; which appears, until then, to have been 
remarkable mainly for the list of great discoverers that had 
sailed by without discovering it. 

Five years later, \775, Don Juan Manuel Ayala, Lieu- 
tenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy, sailed the packet San 
Carlos, otherwise the Toison de Oro or C olden Fleece, into 
the Gulf of the Farallones, as the roadstead outside the heads 
was called, looking for that Port of San Francisco which Viz- 
caino had mapped in 1603 and Drake had visited in 1579, 
and on August 5 th poked his bowsprit into the Golden Gate, 
the first of all the Argonauts of the western world. 

The following year, 1 776, a land expedition commanded 
by Col. Juan Bautisia de Anza, arrived on the peninsula and 
here located the Presidio of San Francisco and the Mission 
Dolores, as it was called from the little creek nearby — the Mis- 
sion of St. Francis of Assissi. The next year the venerable 
presidente of the missions of upper California, Padre Junipero 
Serra, arrived, and inspected and blessed the work. 

The Spanish plan of colonization had three departments; 
the religious, the military and the civil ; which were represented 
respectively by the Mission, the Presidio and the Pueblo. The 
Pueblo they called Yerba Buena, after a medicinal trailing vine 
supposed by the Spanish to facilitate the advent of fresh popu- 
lation. 



8 



HandbooJc for San Francisco 




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THE BASIN OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY. 



Historical Sketch 



In 1 802 there were 800 Indians at the Mission. In the 
main, they were an unpromising breed and have utterly dis- 
appeared. 

In 1 822 Mexico, with California, became independent of 
Spain. In 1 835 Governor Figueroa declared the Embarcadero 
of Verba Buena a port of entry, though it was than only a 
"landing place for fishermen and hide droghers," with a tent 
which belonged to the harbor master, Capt. W. A. Richardson. 

Such were the beginnings of San Francisco. The year of 
the dedication of the Mission and the founding of the Presidio 
was the year of the Declaration of American Independence. 
The Pacific Ocean was an unbounded waste. Capt. Cook 
had not yet made the English discovery of the Hawaiian 
Islands. There were no settlements of any size on this coast 
south of Alaska. Lewis and Clarke had not begun their 
work, and there was no Oregon, no state of Washington, and 
no British Columbia. As far as the concerns of white people 
go, there was no Japan. China still slept, and practically the 
whole commerce of the Pacific consisted of the galleon which, 
once a year, passed between Acapulco and Manila. After 
the time of Portola we hear no more of that. 

THE COVETED PORT. 

Again in the eighteen-forties, San Francisco became an 
objective of international strategy. Small as the settlement 
was at that time, the bay was a coveted prize in the feeble 
hands of the infant Mexican republic. 

Russia had retired up the coast, but England and France 
sent expeditions by sea that looked dangerous. At the oppor- 
tune time the United States stepped in as Spain had done 
before. Fremont had traversed the territory with an "explor- 
ing expedition" and was at Klamath Lake in Oregon; Com- 
m.odore Sloat was at Monterey with frigate "Savannah," and 
Capt. Montgomery was in San Freincisco Bay with the sloop- 
of-war "Portsmouth." 



I Handboo}( for San Francisco 

Fremont and his party marched down to Sonoma, where 
the Bear Flag was raised and independence declared. 

With Kit Carson, Lieut. Gillespie and a small party, Fre- 
mont crossed the bay and spiked the guns at the Presidio. 
Sloat raised the American flag at Monterey, and Montgomery 
landed a party from the "Portsmouth" and performed the 
same function in the Plaza at Yerba Buena, July 8, 1 846. 

From the last mentioned event the Plaza has since been 
called Portsmouth Square. 

In 1847 Washington Bartlett, the first American Alcalde, 
or mayor and judge, learning that another settlement was to 
be started farther up the bay under the name of Francesca, 
after General Vallejo's wife, and fearing some loss of pres- 
tige to his city thereby, declared it was time to drop the mean- 
ingless name of Yerba Buena and call the young metropolis 
San Francisco. Much was in a name. The founders of 
"Francesca" were forced to change their plans, and took the 
lady's other name, Benicia ; and the ships that cleared for 
San Francisco Bay naturally dropped anchor before the city 
that bore the harbor's designation. 

THE AWAKENING. 

California was ceded to the United States in 1 848. In 
March of that year San Francisco had about 820 people, 200 
houses, a school, a newspaper, and two wharves. A fifty- 
vara lot (137J/2 feet square) north of Market street could 
be obtained by alcalde grant for $ 1 6, which included re- 
cording fees. South of Market street a 1 00-vara lot could 
be had for $29. 

Within two years there were over 20,000 people in the 
city, and there were three daily papers, seven churches, two 
theatres and a jail. Steamers were running on the bay, and 
charging twenty dollars to take a passenger to Sacramento. 
By July over 200 square rigged vessels had come into port. 
Within seven and one-half months 697 vessels arrived. Many 
were driven on the beach and abandoned. The whalemen 



Historical Sketch 1 1 



had to quit San Francisco for Honolulu for fear of losing 
their crews. Some of the deserted ships became hotels and 
nineteen were used for warehouses. Commercially the city 
had leaped to the importance of Philadelphia. 

It was as though the giant voice of some primeval world 
force, with all the winds of ocean back of it, had thundered 
"Sleep no more!" Indeed, with the breakfast eggs at a dollar 
apiece, cot beds at five dollars a night, and labor at twenty 
dollars a day, nobody could afford to sleep. 

In 1849 $2,000,000 in gold was exported and the same 
amount in goods and coin came back. Gold had been dis- 
covered at Coloma, in what is now El Dorado county, on Jan- 
uary 19th, 1848, and by the following fall the rush was on 
from all over the world, bringing men of all sorts and classes 
— except the timid and the poor in spirit. 

The noblest natures and the scum of the earth found them- 
selves cheek by jowl in the same community. For a time there 
were neither social, religious nor legal restraints, no institutions 
of any kind to fit or provide for such conditions; nothing 
but a general notion on the part of most people that order 
and equity ought to prevail, and that robbery and violence did. 

Within a few months there were a hundred unpunished 
murderers. Then the Vigilance Committee hanged four men, 
beginning in June of '51 with John Jenkins, who had robbed 
a store, and following in July and August with Stuart, Whit- 
aker and McKenzie. By 1856 civil authority was better or- 
ganized, but the city had fallen, largely, into worse hands, 
so that the necessity for an assertion of the moral character 
of the community seemed even more imperative. With the 
shooting of the editor of the Bulletin, James King of William, 
who was regarded as the popular defender of righteousness, 
by James P. Case^, an ex-convict from Sing Sing, and Super- 
visor of the City and County, the Vigilance Committee was 
reorganized, under the leadership of William T. Coleman, a 
merchant, and proceeded to clean things up in such manner 



12 Handbook for San Francisco 

that San Francisco was a model of municipal purity for the 
next twenty years. 

The Committee had no legal authority. But it organized 
nearly 5,000 men, on a military plan, with regiments and 
companies of infantry, artillery and dragoons; it seized arms 
from the state; it fortified the two-story brick building known 
as the Truitt block, at 2 1 5 Sacramento street, using gunny 
bags filled with sand as a barricade, posted sentinels who ad- 
mitted no one except on password, held secret deliberations, 
issued warrants, summonses and other processes, sent out 
its officers and made arrests, and maintamed a jail on the 
second floor of its improvised fort for the accused criminals 
awaiting trial by its juries. 

The motto on its seal read: "No Creed, No Party, No 
Sectional Issues," and for three months it gave law to the city. 

ESTABLISHING ORDER. 

The Committee's first decisive act was to march to the 
county jail, plant a brass cannon in front of the door, and de- 
mand the person of Casey. The sheriff delivered him up. 
In the jail was Charles Cora, a gambler, who was awaiting 
re-trial for killing a United States marshal ; having secured a 
disagreement at his first trial largely through the influence 
of Col. E. D. Baker, his attorney, afterward killed at Ball's 
Bluff in the Civil War. The citizen army took Cora, too. It 
held these men until James King of William died, and on the 
day of his funeral. May 22, 1856, hanged them from the 
upper story of Fort Cunnybags, in view of thousands of people 
who crowded the house-tops and the hills nearby to see it. 

During its brief control of affairs the Committee banished 
thirty undesirable citizens, and 800 more thought they had 
better leave of their own accord. 

On July 29, 1856, Hetherington and Brace were hanged 
and the activities of the Committee began to subside. It never 
disbanded, although it brought its labors to a close with a 
grand public celebration. 



Historical Sketch 1 3 



THE CIVIL WAR. 

Among the citizens of the new state, politics were tur- 
bulent from the first. Out of the hot contention between Brod- 
erick and Gwin for a United States Senatorship grew the 
famous duel between Senator BrodericJ( and Judge Terry. 
It was fought just over the line in San Mateo county, and 
resulted in Broderick's death. Popular sentiment immediately 
canonized him as the exponent of Free Soil principles, for the 
slavery question was becoming acute and Broderick had been 
among those that contended against slavery in California. 

As the drama led up to the climax of the Civil War, 
efforts to draw California into secession became more and 
more determined, but were defeated largely through the elo- 
quence and tact of a Unitarian clergyman, Thomas Starr 
King, of Boston and San Francisco. 

King was a man of culture, and among a people materially 
prosperous and intellectually starved he was soon in demand, 
up and down the state, as a lecturer on literary and philosoph- 
ical themes. He took advantage of the opportunity to weave 
into his discussions sound unionist and free labor doctrines, 
and did it with so much convincing clearness and fair-minded 
moderation, that he probably contributed more than any other 
one man to keeping California firm for the Union. His grave, 
in front of the church at Franklin and Geary streets, is one 
of the city's proudest relics. 

Though distant from the theater of the war, San Fran- 
ciscans had early been familiar with names that became famous 
in that struggle. In 1853 Sherman swam ashore from a wreck 
and became the San Francisco representative of a St. Louis 
banking house. Farragut was at Mare Island when the Vigi- 
lantes were up. Hooker owned a ranch in Sonoma county, 
and with Stoneman had made an unsuccessful effort to run 
a sawmill at Bodega bay. Fremont had a ranch in Mari- 
posa county. Halleck, Shields and Col. E. D. Baker prac- 
ticed law in San Francisco. McPherson was stationed on 



1 4 Handbool^ for San Francisco 

Alcatraz island during the early period of the war. Lander, 
Buell, Ord, Keyes, Heintzelman, Sumner, Hancock, Stone, 
Porter, Boggs, Grant and Albert Sidney Johnston had all 
been on the coast at various times. 

As the Spanish war emphasized the need of a canal at 
Panama, so the Civil War before it called attention to the 
isolation of the Pacific Coast, and the need of a railroad to 
connect it with the East. A young Connecticut engineer named 
Theodore D. Judah had been called to California to build 
a line from Sacramento to Placerville. The grandeur of vision 
that seems to enchant the West came upon him and he dreamed 
of a railroad across a continent. The dream seized Leland 
Stanford, Collis P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and Charles 
and E. B. Crocker. They asked great grants from Congress, 
and the hard logic of the war came to their aid. On July 
31, 1862, Congress passed the Pacific Railroad bill. Ground 
was broken in January, 1 863. They built forty miles of snow- 
sheds in the mountains and they carted water across the des- 
ert. In one place they had to haul their rails 740 miles by 
wagon. But they made it, and drove the last spike at Prom- 
ontory, in Utah, on May 1 0, 1 869. 

The blows of the silver sledge on the spike of gold were 
repeated, stroke for stroke, on a big bell at the City Hall in 
San Francisco. The road did not reach this city until some 
time afterward, but the effect was to link California to the 
nation indissolubly, and the jubilation of the city was just 
as enthusiastic as though it had immediately become the west- 
ern terminus. 

Telegraph communication with the Eastern States was estab- 
lished in 1 862. 

COMSTOCK DAYS. 

A wonderful phase of San Francisco life and one that left 
an indelible mark on local character was connected with the 
development of the mines in Nevada. In 1 859 a Canadian 
ex-trapper and fur trader named Comstock, widely known 
as "Old Pancake" from his fondness for that article of diet 



Historical Sketch 15 



and his notorious inability to bake a good specimen of it, 
stumbled on a quartz deposit on the side of Mount Davidson 
in the Washoe range. He did not discover it. The Comstock 
lode appears to have been discovered by a couple of Irishmen 
named O'Reilly and McLaughlin, but Comstock argued them 
out of a share of it and gave his name to the lode. When the 
news got abroad there followed the greatest mining frenzy 
ever known, and one that has not yet entirely subsided. Within 
thirty years the Comstock mines produced $350,000,000 worth 
of bullion and paid $1 30,000,000 in dividends, mainly to San 
Francisco share-holders. 

This city was the focal point of the fever, although it in- 
fested the world. California passed through its early gold 
mining days without a stock exchange, for placer mining was a 
"pooJ^ man's game" and required little capital; but shortly 
after the development of the Comstock began, the Stock and 
Exchange Board was instituted in San Francisco to facilitate 
the floating of mining companies and to regulate dealings in 
their shares. This was in 1 862. It was a necessary pro- 
vision against irresponsibility and wholesale fraud, and yet the 
dealings soon took on the most violent phases of the specu- 
lating mania, and the whole community became involved, from 
the "tin-horn sport" to the clergyman, from the washerwoman 
to the banker. 

Before the end of 1861 nearly one hundred companies had 
been formed. By 1876 there were three stock exchanges, all 
thriving. Violent fluctuations of the stock list could be pro- 
duced by manipulated news and crooked tips from mining 
operations that were going on beyond the state line and a 
thousand feet underground. Giants fought, and financially 
slew one another, for control of different mines. Discoveries 
of "bonanzas," or rich deposits, caused immense jumps in price 
in a few hours. At one time the aggregate paper values, 
as quoted on the stock market, ran over $700,000,000. 

Millionaires were made overnight. Strong banks were 
founded in the city to finance the mining and milling. Men 



Handbook for San Francisco 



arose to financial power who had a bold grasp of affairs, and a 
startling breadth of view, combined with an intense love for 
the city where they had made their wealth, and the brightest 
dreams of its future power and beauty. 

They lavished money on such enterprises as the Palace 
Hotel. They and the railroad magnates crowned Nob Hill 
with palaces whose walls were hung with the costliest tapes- 
tries and the most beautiful paintings, whose teak and ebony 
finishings were inlaid with mother-of-pearl and ivory, and which 
made the name of that bit of hill-top renowned all over the 
world. 

In 1872 there occurred a slump in stocks in which prices 
dropped $60,000,000 in ten days. There was a general 
rally of the list, and another decline, in 1875, of $100,000,- 
000, of which $42,000,000 was lost in a single week. 

Gradually the excitement subsided, to flame up again fit- 
fully in I 886 and then fall away once more. But the com- 
munity had lived so long in an atmosphere of enchantment that 
the glamour of those days has but increased with time, and 
the real San Franciscan feels that his city has passed through 
the golden romance that makes others commonplace by con- 
trast. 

Among the memorable names of the time are those of the 
"Big Four" that built the Central Pacific Railroad — Hunt- 
ington, Hopkins, Stanford and Crocker; and the battling 
giants of the Comstock — Mackay & Fair, Flood & O'Brien, 
Alvinza Hayward, D. O. Mills, Adolph Sutro, United States 
Senators Stewart, Jones and Sharon (Fair also was a United 
States Senator), W. C. Ralston, E. J. Baldwin; and James 
R. Keene, who until his death in January, 1913, was one of 
dominant figures of the Wall Street market. 

DEVASTATION AND RECOVERY. 

The census of 1 900 gave San Francisco a population of 
342, 782. That of 1910 raised it to 4 1 6,9 1 2, a gain of over 



Historical Sketch 1 7 



2 1 per cent in a decade ; and between the two counts the city 
suffered the greatest fire of which modern men have any knowl- 
edge. 

The conflagration of April 18th to 2/st, 1906, burned 497 
city blocks, or four square miles, out of the heart of the city. 
From the Embarcadero, between the foot of Taylor street 
and the foot of Howard, it swept southwestward to Van Ness 
avenue, got a block beyond, from Clay to Sutter, jumped Van 
Ness again between Golden Gate avenue and Page street 
and burned three blocks westward, and at the same time 
swept the populous area south of Market street as far south- 
east as Townsend, and as far southwest as Dolores and 
Twentieth. 

Twenty-eight thousand buildings were destroyed in three 
days. The railroads carried two hundred thousand people 
out of town. The whole business district was a dreary waste 
of ashes in which the only business done for weeks consisted 
in dragging safes out of the ruins and breaking them open in 
the hope of finding some of their contents unburned. 

Yet as this is being written, the merchants of this city are 
inviting the people of the West to a fashion show in the 
most beautiful modern stores, in well-paved, clean, brilliantly 
lighted streets — a fashion show richer and more sumptuous 
than can be seen anywhere outside of Paris, designed to appeal 
to the taste and pocket books of a prosperous people. And 
the city as a whole has invited the world to the greatest inter- 
national exposition thus far held. 

Estimated on the figures of the public service corporations, a 
sure index, the population of San Francisco in 1913 is 530,- 
000. In March, 1913, real estate sold on its main thorough- 
fare at $14,000 a front foot. 

In the histories of American cities there are no wonders 
comparable to these. And yet in looking over San Fran- 
cisco's past one is forced to conclude that any one of these 
contributing causes of growth might have been omitted and 
yet the city would h^v^ be^n here. It would have been a 



1 8 Handbook for San Francisco 

thriving community by this time without the gold mines, for 
Americans were beginning to settle in California before the 
presence of gold was generally suspected, and agriculture and 
commerce would have made San Francisco great. Order and 
security would in some way have been evolved if not by the 
Vigilance Committee. The Comstock might never have been 
discovered, and still San Francisco would have continued to 
thrive, beyond any other city of the West. 

The Spanish galleons no longer traverse their ancient route 
from Manila to Acapulco, but fleets of steel and steam must 
pass on the same trail, back and forth between Europe and 
Asia. Despite earthquake and fire, the city's commercial 
fabric stands on the surest of foundations — that of economic 
necessity. Were there no San Francisco in existence men 
would have to begin and build it now. 



SAN FRANCISCO— IN GENERAL. 

The beauty and grandeur of San Francisco's location have 
delighted every visitor that has seen the region properly. With 
the possible exception of Constantinople, no other city has 
such a setting. It occupies the tip of a peninsula about 6^ 
miles across, almost surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the 
west, San Francisco Bay on the east and northeast, and, 
along the north, the Golden Gate connecting the two. 

The basin of San Francisco Bay is a magnificent amphi- 
theater rimmed with hills that rise here and there to mountain 
stature. In the bosom of this amphitheater lies the Bay, a 
gleaming sheet dotted with islands and shining sails, criss- 
crossed by busy ferry boats, and ploughed by stately ocean 
steamers or big square-riggers from "around the Horn." It 
is 65 miles long, from 4 to 1 miles in width; and into it 
the great rivers of California, the Sacramento and the San 
Joaquin, discharge the water that falls on the west slope of 
the Sierra Nevada mountains and the east side of the Coast 



In General 1 9 

Range, and in the central valley section of the State, a region 
400 miles long and from 50 to 60 miles across. 

The Golden Gate is the outlet of this drainage area and 
the channel through which the tides ebb and flow between 
the bay and the ocean. It is about 2^ miles long, and P/a 
miles in width, and, with its rolling blue water, its light- 
houses, fortifications, islands and processions of majestic ships, 
is one of the inspiring scenes of the western contment. As 
many as twenty-five steamers move through it in a day. It is 
the only breach through the Coast Range mountains of Cali- 
fornia. Beyond the Golden Gate rise the huge bluffs and ridges 
of Marin County, their endless convolutions painted in subdued 
and harmonious earth colors. Up the ocean shore can be 
seen long points of land running westward and making other 
bays. 

In San Francisco itself, at points almost providentially dis- 
posed, rise hills, from ,300 to over 900 feet in height, from 
whose summits superb panoramas of the city, bay and ocean 
open to the view. 

How these vistas have impressed one of the most scholarly 
and discriminating of travelers appears in the oft-quoted state- 
ment of James Bryce, former British Ambassador to the United 
States, and author of the "American Commonwealth," who 
says: 

"FeXv cities in the world can vie with San Francisco either 
in the beauty or in the natural advantages of her situation; 
indeed, there are only two places in Europe — Constantinople 
and Gibraltar — that combine an equally perfect landscape 
with what may be called an equally imperial position. . , . 

"The city itself is full of bold hills, rising steeply from the 
deep water. The air is keen, dry and bright, like the air of 
Greece, and the waters not less blue. Perhaps it is this air 
and light, recalling the cities of the Mediterranean, that make 
one involuntarily look up to the tops of these hills for the 
feudal castle or the ruins of the Acropolis, which one thinks 
must crown them." 



20 Handbook for San Francisco 



Along the west side of the city runs the Great Highway, 
following the ocean almost in a straight line for three miles, 
and here the long rollers of the Pacific thunder on the beach 
and sink back under shrouds of foam. The whole frontage 
of San Francisco along the ocean is about eight miles, from 
the San Mateo county line to Fort Point. 

This territory covers about 46J/2 square miles of hill and 
vale and sand dunes and city. It is an area of great topo- 
graphical variety and contains 1 4 good-sized hills. 

Market street runs southwest from the Ferry building to 
Twin Peaks, making small angles, or gores, with the streets 
running west on the north side of it. South of Market, the 
streets are perpendicular and parallel to it. 

The general house numbering scheme in San Francisco is 
based on a scale of one hundred numbers to the block. 
Numbers increase from the Embarcadero westward, and, from 
Market street, in both directions. Thus the house numbers 
on each street slanting westward from the northwest side of 
Market street (the north side, as it is called locally) begin 
one hundred numbers behind those on the parallel streets 
north of it. 

City directories may be consulted at almost all drug stores 
and will give the locations of churches, fraternal orders and 
halls, charitable organizations, clubs, theaters, consulates, pri- 
vate schools, and similar institutions, in classified lists to be 
found in the index. The directory also gives a street and 
avenue guide with house numbers complete. In the following 
pages we shall indicate more specifically some places and 
objects of particular interest that no intelligent traveler would 
willingly omit to see. 

CLIMATE. 

San Francisco has one of the finest of climates, with com- 
fortable and invigorating temperatures the year around. Stim- 
ulating sea breezes blow during the summer afternoons, in- 



In General 2 1 

suring against heat, and usually falling in the evening, so that 
the nights are extremely pleasant — a condition that does a 
great deal to promote the out-door night life of the city. 
Fogs are frequent, but instead of being dreaded are regarded 
as a cosmetic. The San Francisco complexion is celebrated. 
One never suffers here either from heat or cold, and every 
night is cool enough to enable one to sleep comfortably 
under blankets. 

Snow sometimes falls, but so rarely as to be a subject of 
comment for several days, and it never falls in sufficient 
quantity, or stays long enough on the ground, to make good 
sleighing or snow-balling. The Weather Bureau's records 
show light falls of snow on the following dates since 1876: 
Jan. 21st, 1876; Dec. 31st, 1882; Feb. 6th, 1883; Feb. 
7th, 1884; Feb. 5th, 1887; Jan. 4th, 1888; Jan. 16th, 
1888; March 2nd, 1894; March 2nd, 1896; Feb. 3rd, 
1903; Feb. 26th, 1911; Feb. 27th, 1911; Jan. 9th, 1913 
— thirteen times in 37 years. 

During the cold snap of Jan. 1st to 8th, 1913, the lowest 
temperature at San Francisco, according to the Bureau's offi- 
cial records, was 33 degrees above zero. The lowest tem- 
perature ever officially recorded at San Francisco was 29 
degrees above zero. 

Tornadoes, typhoons and hurricanes are unknown. Thun- 
derstorms are very rare — 28 have been recorded in 20 years, 
and eight of them occurred in one year. In 20 years there 
were only 56 hail storms. 

Some most interesting studies of the local climate have 
been made by Alexander G. McAdie, professor of meteor- 
ology in charge of the local office of the Weather Bureau. 
One of these is entitled "The Clouds and Fogs of San Fran- 
cisco" and is from the publishing house of A. M. Robertson. 
Another is "The Climatology of California," and a third ia 
"The Climate of San Francisco," written by Prof. McAdie 



22 Handbook for San Francisco 

in conjunction with George H. Wilson, local forecaster. From 
the first named work we quote: 

Fog Is San Francisco's greatest asset It keeps the city cool in 

summer and thus makes for heahh; also It keeps the city warm In winter, 
preventing frosts and moderating the fall in temperature San Fran- 
ciscans love their fog. When away from the city they pine for it, and 
especially during summer. Not without reason do they appreciate the 
coohng effect of the fog. It enables one to sleep through summer nights 
and rise refreshed and ready for the day's requirements. 



CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. 

Travelers arriving at San Francisco from foreign countries 
will find the customs laws administered, as far as the visitor 
is concerned, with tact, courtesy and intelligence, and will 
save themselves annoyance if they will strive to conform to 
the necessary conditions of the tariff regulations. 

The purser on the steamer usually distributes declaration 
blanks and printed notices of the customs requirements in 
regard to baggage. The notices specify what and how much 
can be brought in free, and what must be declared. 

As a rule, articles are dutiable unless specifically exempted 
by law. 

MONEY. 

San Franciscans are given to the use of gold and silver 
money to a degree unknown to the people of the Eastern 
States. Unless you request paper at the bank you will prob- 
ably be paid coin. The smallest coin in general use is the 
nickel five-cent piece, although of late copper cents are com- 
ing into circulation. 

The values of foreign coins in terms of United States 
money, have been proclaimed by the acting Secretary of the 
Treasury, on the estimate of the Director of the Mint, to be 
as follows: 



Customs Regulations 



23 



Country Moneiar}) Unit U 

Argentine Rep Peso 

Austria-Hungary Crown 

Belgium Franc 

Bolivia Boliviano 

Brazil Milreis 

British Am Dollar 

Costa Rica Colon 

Chile Peso 

ru- Tap] ^ Shanghai 

L-rima ^ aei , . . ., 

' Haikwan 

Colombia Dollar 

Denmark Crown 

Ecuador Sucre 

Egypt Pound, 1 00 piastres 

Finland Mark 

France Franc 

German Emp Mark 

Great Britain Pound Sterling 

Greece Drachma 

Hayti Gourde 

India (British) Pound Sterling 

Italy Lira 

Japan Yen 

Liberia Dollar 

Mexico Peso 

Netherlands Florin 

Newfoundland Dollar 

Norway Crown 

Panama Balboa 

Persia Kran 

Peru Libra 

Philippine Isl Peso 

Portugal Milreis 

Russia Ruble 

Spain Peseta 

Sweden Crown 

Switzerland Franc 

Turkey Piaster 

Uruguay Peso 

Venezuela Bolivar 



Value in 
, 5. Mone^ 

$0.96,5 
0.20,3 
0.19,3 
0.38,9 
0.54,6 
1.00,0 
0.46,5 
0.36,5 

0.69,2 
0.77,1 
L00,0 
0.26,8 
0.48,7 
4.94,3 
0.19,3 
0.19,3 
0.23,8 

4.86,61/2 

0.19,3 

0.96,5 

4.86,61/i 

0.19,3 

0.49,8 

1.00,0 

0.49,8 

0.40,2 

1.01,4 

0.26,8 

1 .00,0 

0.17,04 

4.86,61/2 

0.50,0 

1.08,0 

0.51,5 

0.19,3 

0.26,8 

0.19,3 

0.04,4 

1.03,4 

0.19,3 



24 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

REACHING THE CITY. 

Travelers enter San Francisco in one of three general ways: 
Through the Golden Gate if they come by sea, landing at 
one of the State piers on the Embarcadero, or at the Govern- 
ment transport docks at Fort Mason on the northern water- 
front; at the ferry Building, also on the Embarcadero; or at 
Third and Townsend street depot, if they come by the South- 
ern Pacific's coast line trains. 

The heaviest travel enters at the Ferry building, the city's 
great water gate, having crossed the Bay from Oakland or 
Point Richmond on the suburban ferries. 

These boats are the swiftest, largest and most commodious 
to be found in such a service anywhere, and the passage is 
full of novelty and charm. No other city is approached by 
such a royal way, and the traveler arriving thus may well 
look forward to the last stage of his journey as by far the 
best and most beautiful. 

You pass Yerba Buena (Goat) Island and the Naval Train- 
ing Station, and if you are early enough you can hear the 
bugles singing reveille from the parade ground above the 
little cove. 

Across the bay to the northwest rises the bold cone of 
Tamalpais, 2,592 feet high, with the beautiful hills of Marin 
county, San Francisco's main playground, for its buttresses. 
Before it is Angel Island, with the east cantonment of the 
U. S. Army recruiting station on its eastern shore. 

To the northward are the hills of Sonoma county, "Land 
of the Moon," the Indians called it, one of the principal wine 
districts of California ; and if the day be very clear one can 
see, directly north, Mt. St. Helena, over 4,000 feet high and 
55 miles distant in an air line. 

South of the bluff Marin county hills is the opening of the 
Golden Gate, visible for a moment before you pass Yerba 
Buena island, and just inside it rises Alcairaz island, with the 
gray walls of its military prison, soon to become a Federal 
penitentiary. 



Reaching the Cifp 25 



On the peninsula of San Francisco, to the extreme right, 
rises a scarred and precipitous bluff, with dwelHngs clinging 
to its flanks, and trees upon its crest. This is Telegraph HilU 
"Crazy owld, daisy owld Tilygraft Hill," as Wallace Irwin 
called it in one of his San Francisco lyrics. In early days a 
semaphore on its 300-foot height announced incoming vessels 
to the merchants in the old business district near its southern 
base. Its summit, where the trees stand, is now Pioneer Park, 
whence there is a wonderful view over the city and Bay, and 
in the third of the "Walks About San Francisco," in this 
book, you can find the easiest way to ascend. 

South of Telegraph appears Russian Hill, also affording a 
fine view, and No. IV of the "Walks" will tell you how to 
reach that. 

The next prominent feature southward is the palatial Fair- 
mont Hotel, crowning Nob Hill, renowned as the residence 
district of the Comstock and railroad millionaires. 

The domed skyscraper that appears southward of the Ferry 
building and a considerable distance behind it, is the Claus 
Spreckels building, one of the tallest in the West. It stands 
at Newspaper Square, with the Examiner and Chronicle build- 
ings near it. Slightly to the left of it is the dark and solid 
looking dome of the Humboldt Savings Bank building, and 
rising just behind that is to be the Call building, 400 feet 
high. These buildings indicate the line of Market street. 

Southward still are the rolling hills of the P otter o industrial 
district. Far to the left of that a long tongue of land juts 
into the Bay. This is Hunter's Point, where great drydocJ^s 
are built in the solid rock. One of them is 750 feet long, 
the largest on the Pacific coast of the two Americas. With 
the Union Iron Works, in the Potrero, these docks are now 
part of the Bethlehem Steel Corporation's properties. 

Flocks of wheeling tern follow the boat, sailing gracefully 
en the breeze, and swooping without a miss at bits of food 
thrown them by the passengers. These are the famous "sea- 
gulls" of San Francisco Bay. They are here all winter, from 



26 



Handhool^ for San Francisco 




Copyright, 1910, R. J. Waters & Co. 
UNVEILING THE TETRAZZINI TABLET, NEWSPAPER SQUARE. 

October to March or April, and are an attractive feature. 
Their summers they spend in the Arctic. 

Soon the busy panorama of the city front grows more dis- 
tinct ; miles of long docks, forests of masts and steam funnels, 
busy tugs towing barges along a commercial battle line, some 
great ship in from the Orient, a bark from Antwerp or a five- 
masted schooner from the islands; the gray stone Ferry build- 
ing with its clock tower like the Giralda of Seville; and back 
of it the city rising on its majestic hills, tier upon tier of it, 
spire, dome and tall skyscraper, humming with life and seeth- 
ing with mighty, organized energies. 

Or, night may magically transform the scene, blanking the 
buildings into the darkness and leaving the streets marching 
over the hills with long ranks and cross ranks of torches. 
The shipping and the pier heads will be pointed with other 



Reaching the Cit\) 27 



lights, and above them all will appear the piercing star at the 
top of the Ferry tower. 

jj- You go ashore through the Ferry building and find yourself 
at the foot of Market street, the main thoroughfare. The 
Emharcadero stretches away to the right and left. The city 
lies before you. 

If you arrive at Third and Townsend depot, cars bound 
northwest on Third will take you to the heart of the business 
district at "^hird, Kearny and Market streets, or Newspaper 
Square, where are located the offices and publishing plants 
of the three great morning dailies of the city, the Call, Chron- 
icle and Examiner. This is where Lotta Crabtree, a stage 
favorite of former days, erected a fountain to show her love 
for the yoiichful city, and where Luisa Tetrazzini, on Christ- 
mas c. '910, sang in the open air to more than 100,000 
people and thus established the annual winter street concert 
at this point as one of the regular festivals of San Francisco. 

Or, on Townsend street, trolley cars marked "20' on the 
roof will take you up Fourth street to Market, and thence out 
Ellis street through the western part of the city as far as the 
beach. 

But the traveler to be envied is he that approaches San 
Francisco from over the ocean. He will enter an imperial 
port. He will sail on the tides of mighty rivers into the 
heart of a great State. He will see the prone, eternal hills, 
"like giants at a hunting, chin on hand," giving him a patron- 
izing sort of welcome; the bold bluffs of Marin county, the 
Berkeley hills on the "Contra Costa" or opposite shore, per- 
haps the tip of Diablo, nearly 4,000 feet high, rising behind 
them, if the day be clear. After his long voyage across the 
open ocean he will have the sense of protection and harborage 
that only great havens give. He will feel that this arrival is 
like no other arrival anywhere, and departure an evil to be 
indefinitely deferred. 

Suppose your last port was Honolulu, or Yokohama. Say 
your captain makes his landfall at dawn. Straight as a bullet 



28 Handbook for San Francisco 

he drives for the Golden Gate. The westerly breeze is with 
you and you feel no chill. A jagged silhouette lifts from the 
sea as you look toward the rising sun, and as you draw 
abreast of it and get better light the Southeast Farallone looms 
to port like a castle of sculptured pearl. Past this outpost 
and past the light-house on it, and you are in that Gulf of the 
Farallones known to the Spaniards for generations before they 
learned it was only the ocean dooryard to California. Dead 
ahead is the coast, a rim of airy looking hills in the morning 
mist, so soft in their melting outline that no hint at first 
appears of the breach through which the waters of the broad 
valleys find their way to sea. 

Fifteen miles farther and you pass the light-ship. Now you 
face the Gate, opening directly before you. The bold head- 
lands. Point Lobos and Point Bonita, rear themselves to right 
and left. Far to starboard, opposite Point Lobos, are some 
brownish crags just outside the surf, from which you may 
imagine you hear the throaty bark of fat old sea lions. 

Alcatraz and Angel islands loom ahead, Alcatraz with the 
light-house and the gray prison on it. The peninsula of San 
Francisco crouches couchant, facing the Marin county hills. 
Slowly you draw past Mile Rock light, and Baker's Beach 
curving in a long crescent that terminates in Fort Point with 
Fort W infield Scott at its tip. The timbered slopes from 
which this cape juts out are part of the United States military 
reservation, known from early Spanish days as the Presidio. 
Its smiling green expanses mask the emplacements of many 
high-powered rifled cannon ; for San Francisco has been called 
the best fortified city in the country. 

Opposite Fort Point is a white cape projecting from the 
Marin county shore known as Lime Point. 

Beyond Fort Point are the 625 acres of the Panama-Pacific 
Exposition grounds, a natural amphitheater glorified with the 
domes and spires, the courts and palaces that embody the 
dreams of some of the foremost living architects. Before It 
is the yacht harbor, and just beyond that are the Government 



Reaching the City 



29 



Transport Docl^s, whence the troops depart for Hawaii and 
the Philippines. Down the slopes behind and through the 
spaces between pours the city ; dock and quay, warehouse and 
factory, fort and Presidio and Fishermen's Wharf with its 
lateen-sailed fleet, the dwellings of the people and the build- 
ings of the World's Fair, blent in one perfect picture. And 




EXPOSITION SITE, ON THE GOLDEN GATE. 

the night approach is equally inspiring — gloomy bulks of land, 
the beacons winking from the light-houses, and then a glory of 
lamps flung over the hills like spangles on a violet robe. 

You have reached a city so rich in its varied types and 
personal elements, so versatile, so human in its strengths and 
weaknesses, so great in its past achievements and strong in its 
ambitions and its future, that it is fit to rank among the 
dominant communities of the world. 

BRING NO FRUIT INTO CALIFORNIA. 

On behalf of California's great fruit interests, on which 
largely the prosperity of the State depends, we ask all travelers 
not to bring in fruit or vegetables. 

With its great fruit regions and its wondrous climate just 
between the temperate and tropical, fruit pests unwittingly in- 
troduced in the baggage of some visitor might thrive and mul- 



30 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

tiply in California to such a degree as to imperil one of the 
leading industries of the State. 

There are many such pests that are, at some stage of their 
life history, invisible, so that it is impossible for any one but 
an expert in horticulture and entomology to say whether fruit 
is infected or not. 

So do not try to bring in any fruit or vegetable. 

The same considerations apply to the mongoose, which 
would exterminate quail, partridges and other ground nesting 
birds and make the poultry industry almost impossible for the 
time being — and possibly to other animal pets. Before you 
have completed this journey you may wish to make California 
your home. Help us take care of it as though it were. 



GETTING UP TOWN. 

Many of the larger hotels send 'busses to meet incoming 
trains and steamers. Some are free, and some charge 25 or 
50 cents a passenger for this service. 

Street cars can be taken at the Ferry or at Third and 
Townsend depot, and the traveler landing at the steamer docks 
south of Market street can reach the Third street cars by way 
of King street, southwest to Third. 

If you prefer to travel by hack, taxi or automobile, make a 
definite bargain beforehand with the driver himself, and not 
with a go-between whom you may never see again. 

TAXICAB, HACK AND AUTOMOBILE FARES. 

From the Ferry and Railroad Depots and steamer landings 
to hotels in the "Downtown Hotel District," a flat rate was be- 
ing established when this book went to press. This rate will 
not exceed $1.00 for a vehicle containing four persons or less. 
Ask your taxicab driver in advance for the rate to where you 
are going. To points outside of this District, meter rates apply. 

See page 336 for meter and other rates in detail. 



Getting Your Baggage Up ToTvn 31 

GETTING YOUR BAGGAGE UP TOWN. 

There are two methods open to you for handling your 
baggage, either of them good and convenient. 

First, you can give your checks to the solicitor on the train 
or on the steamer, take his receipt, tell him to what hotel or 
lodgings you are going, and be reasonably sure your trunks 
and bags will reach you with a fair degree of promptness. 
If you come by a steamer which is not boarded by a baggage 
transfer agent, your next recourse aboard is the purser or the 
freight clerk. 

Second, you can hold your checks and give them to the clerk 
of the hotel at which you stop. All the good hotels have 
arrangements for taking care of their guests in this respect. 
The method is likely to be fully as prompt as the other, and 
if you wish to look about before definitely engaging your 
rooms, you will not have to pay for hauling your baggage 
from place to place. 

The fair charge for carrying a trunk to any point except 
in the outlying or hilly parts of the city is $.50, and for a 
piece of hand luggage $.25. There are some companies that 
do it for less. Baggage can remain in the railway depots 
twenty-four hours without charge. After that it pays storage 
charges at the rate of $.25 for the first twenty- four hours and 
$. 1 for each succeeding day or part thereof. 

To avoid payment for storage on baggage, it should be 
claimed immediately on arrival at destination. 

Storage of baggage is free at San Francisco while a pas- 
senger on an interstate ticket is gone to Yosemite valley. 

If the traveler's destination in the city is a private house he 
will find baggage transfer companies listed in the classified 
department of the telephone directory, but it is better to be 
guided in that case by the advice of friends. 



32 



Handbook for San Francisco 




PALM COURT OF THE PALACE HOTEL. 



HOTELS. 

The hotels of San Francisco are among the finest in the 
world. For comfort, and efficiency of service they have 
never been excelled. There are no old hotels in the down- 
town section of the city, for the fire of 1 906 burned out 
every one in that district, with the result that all of them now 
existing there are new, sanitary and freshly decorated and 
furnished. In the cheapest of them one gets modern accom- 
modations. There are more good rooms in second or even 
third class hotels in San Francisco than in any other city. 

San Francisco's renowned old hostelries were rebuilt after 
the fire, and generally speaking are conducted under the same 
management as of old. The Palace, built by William C. 
Ralston, was known all over the world. Its famous Palm 
Court was a splendid glass-domed space 84 by 1 44 feet in 
size, surrounded by an inner gallery at every floor, and with 



Some of the Hotels 33 



a huge palm in the center. And it was said of it, as KipHng 
said of the India Docks, that if you waited there long enough 
you could see anybody you wished. Merely to take down its 
walls after the fire cost over $70,000, and it is now rebuilt 
in steel and brick in the most substantial way and beautifully 
appointed in every particular. The Palm Court is even more 
beautiful than before, and a favorite rendezvous. In the bar 
is Maxfield Parrish's mural decoration, the "Pied Piper of 
Hamelin." Ladies sometimes drop in to view it. 

The Fairmont, on the summit of Nob Hill, represents a 
later development. With its view over the Bay it is the per- 
manent home of many wealthy people, and its great Norman 
cafe bids fair to become almost as famous as the Palm Court 
of the Palace. 

The Hotel St. Francis was burned out by the fire, but its 
steel frame and stone walls hardly had time to cool before a 
banquet of business men was held in its dismantled White and 
Gold room to celebrate the beginning of reconstruction. Here 
one finds the last refinement of perfect hotel service. George 
Wharton James, writing of the Hotel Men's 1910 trip, says 
of it: 

Briefly, there Is no finer Interpretation of the art of pubhc hospitahty 
in the United States today, than is presented by the complete three-winged 
St. Francis, which, with over 800 guest rooms, has the largest capacity of 
any hotel on the Pacific Coast. 

In 1913 the St. Francis is constructing a fourth wing, which 
will make it one of the largest tourist hotels in the world. 

The Stewart is another fine hostelry, and so are the Bellevue, 
the Granada, the Union Square, the Cadillac, the Herald, 
the Sutter, the Manx, and scores of others. It is impossible 
to mention them all, in a work of this size, for this is the 
greatest hotel city in the world in proportion to population, 
having over 2,000 hotels, lodging houses and apartment houses, 
90 per cent of them new. However, the following mention of 
but a few of the better ones of their class, centrally located. 



34 Handbook for San Francisco 

will afford the visitor a good choice of price and accommo- 
dation. 

The phrase "European Plan" means that the room only is 
included in the price. "American Plan" means meals in- 
cluded. Where the hotel is conducted on the American plan, 
board usually costs about $2 a day in addition to rooms. 

Hotel Acme: 819 Mission street. Mission street cars. 
European plan. Moderate prices; at 50 cents to $1.50. 

Hotel Adena: 144 O'Farrell street, opposite Orpheum 
theater. European plan, $1.00 a day. Sample rooms for 
commercial travelers. 

From Third and Townsend depot taJ^e Ellis and Ocean 
car. Line No. 20, to Stockton street and Tvalk one block north. 

From Ferr]) building take an]^ Market street car to Stockton 
street and walk one block north, or Gear]) Street Municipal 
RailvDay to Stockton street and walk one block south. 

Alpine House: 480 Pine street, next to California Mar- 
ket. European plan; 50c, 75c and $1.00 a day; $2.50, 
$3.00, $3.50, $4.00, $5.00 and $6.00 a week. Cafe and 
grill in the building. Caters largely to country trade. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, get off at 
Pine street and walk half a block ^^sf. 

From Ferry building take Third and Kentucky car. Line 
No. 16, to the same point 

Hotel Argonaut: Fourth street and Pioneer Place, close to 
Market street. European plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe 
and grill in connection. 

Free bus. 

Arlington Hotel: 480 Ellis street, corner of Leavenworth. 
European or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day 
and up; American, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connec- 
tion. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. 

Free bus. 



Some of the Hotels 35 



Astoria Hotel: Northwest corner Bush street and Grant 
avenue. Rooms at 50 cents to $1.50. 

Tal^e Sutter street cars, on Line No. /, 2 or 3, and walk 
one block north. 

Hotel Atlanta: Seventh and Mission streets, opposite the 
Post Office. Eluropean plan, 75c to $2.00 a day; $3.50 to 
$8.00 a week. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- 
mercial travelers. 

Free bus (Argonaut or Winchester). 

Baldwin Hotel: Grant avenue near Sutter street. All 
rooms with private bath. European plan; rates, $1.00 to 
$2.00 a day for one person; $1.50 to $2.00 a day for two. 
Family and commercial trade. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, to Sutter 
street and walk a block west. 

From the Ferr-y building take Sutter street car and get off 
at Grant avenue. 

Baltimore Hotel: 1015 Van Ness avenue. European or 
American plan. Rates, European, 75c a day and up; Amer- 
ican, $2.00 a day and up. Family trade. 

From Third and Townsend Depot take Ellis and Ocean 
car. Line No. 20, to Van Ness avenue and walk one block 
north. 

From Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer at 
Fourth to Ellis street and get off at Van Ness avenue. 

Bellevue Hotel: Southwest corner of Geary and Taylor 
streets. All rooms with private bath. European or Ameri- 
can plan. Rates, European, $2.00 a day and up; Amer- 
ican, $4.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection; sample rooms 
for commercial travelers. 

Bus from depots at 25c a person, or 

From Third and Townsend Depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 and transfer 
ic Geary Street Municipal Railway, passing the door. 



36 HandbooI( for San Francisco 

From the Ferry huilding taJ^e Geary Street Municipal Rail- 
way, passing the door. 

Brooklyn Hotel: On First street, between Folsom and 
Harrison. European or American plan. Rales, European, 
50c to $1.00 a day; American, $1.00 to $1.50. Family 
and commercial trade. 

Free bus. 

Hotel Brownell: 335 Larkin street, near Golden Gate 
avenue. European plan, $1.00 a day and up; rates by the 
week or month. Tourist, family and commercial trade. 

From Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 to Market 
street, transfer to McAllister No. 5, get off at Larkin and 
n>alk north. 

From Ferry huilding take McAllister car. Line No. 5, to 
the same point. 

Hotel Cadillac: Eddy and Leavenworth streets. Euro- 
pean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and 
up; American, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connection. 
Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Tourist, family and 
commercial trade. 

Free auto bus. 

Columbia Hotel: 409 O'Farrell street, corner of Taylor. 
European plan, $1.00 a day single, $1.50 double; with 
private bath, $1.50 single, $2.00 double. Tourist and family 
trade. 

From Third and Torvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Taylor street and walk one block north. 

From Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer at 
Fourth street to Ellis car to the same point. 

Continental Hotel: 127 Ellis street, near Powell. Euro- 
pean plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample 
fooms for commercial travelers. Family and commercial trade. 



Some of the Hotels 



37 



From Third and Toivnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Powell street. 

From Ferry building tal^e any Market street car to Powell 
and Walk one block north. 

Hotel Dale: 34 Turk street, European plan, $1.00 a 
day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- 
mercial travelers. 

Free bus from steamer docks. From Third and Townsend 
depot take car of Line 15 or 16, transfer to Market, west- 
bound, and get off at Mason. 

From the Ferry take Market street car to Mason. The 
hotel will pay taxicab fare. 




THE FAIRMONT HOTEL, NOB HILL. 

Fairmont Hotel: Occupies block between Powell and Ma- 
son, and California and Sacramento streets; 500 rooms, each 
with private bath. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. 
Ladies' grill and gentlemen's grill in connection. Sample 
rooms for commercial travelers. 

Bus meets all trains, ferries and steamers at a charge of 50c 
per person, or 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car^ 



38 Handbook for San Francisco 

Line No. 20, to corner of Ellis and Powell, transfer to PoTvell 
street cable, get off at California. 

From the Ferr]) building take a Sacramento street car, no 
number, to Mason street. 

Hotel Clen: Turk and Market streets. European plan, 
$1.00 to $1.50 a day. 

From Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer 
to Market street rvest bound and get off at Turk and Mason 
streets. 

From the Ferry building take any Market street car to the 
same point. 

Hotel Closter: O'Farrell and Mason streets. $1.50 a 
day with private bath; $1.00 without, for either one or two 
persons. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial 
travelers. Caters to a Tourist and California State trade. 

From Third and Torvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean 
car. Line No. 20, to Mason street and rvalk one block north. 

From the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer 
to Powell street cable, get off at O'Farrell and walk one block 
west. 

From the steamer docks take any cab or taxicab to the hotel 
and the hotel will pay the driver. 

Golden Eagle Hotel: 253 Third street, between Howard 
and Folsom. European plan, 50c to $2.00 a day. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, to Folsom 
street. 

From the Ferry building take Folsom street car, no number, 
or Howard street car, no number, to Third street. 

Golden West Hotel: Ellis and O'Farrell streets. Euro- 
pean plan, $1.00 a day and up, single; $1.50 a day and up, 
double. Cafe in connection. Commercial and tourist trade. 

Free bus. 



Some of the Hotels 39 



Goodfriend Hotel: 245 Powell street, between Geary 
and O'Farrell. European plan, $1.50 to $2.00 a day. Sam- 
ple rooms for commercial travelers. 

Free bus. 

Granada Hotel: Sutter and Hyde streets. European or 
American plan. Rates, European plan, $1.50 a day and up 
for one, $2.50 a day and up for two; American, $3.50 a 
day and up for one, $6.00 a day and up for two. American 
plan dming rooms. 

From Third and Torvnsend depot taJ^e Kearn]) and Beach 
car. No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer to 
Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3, and get off at Hyde street. 

From the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer 
to Sutter street car. No. / , 2 or 3, and get off at same point. 

Grand Central Hotel: Market and Polk streets. European 
plan, $1.50 and $2.00 a day with private bath; 75c to $1.50 
without. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial 
travelers. Caters to a commercial and tourist trade. 

Free bus. 

Herbert's Bachelor Hotel: 159 Powell street. With or 
without private bath. European plan, $1.00 a day and up, 
$6.00 a week and up. German grill in connection, always 
open. Not a family hotel. Caters to a business men's trade. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Powell street and walk half a block north. 

From the Ferry building take any Market street car to 
Powell street and walk northward a block and a half. 

Hotel Graystone: 66 Geary street. European plan, $1.00 
to $2.50 a day. 
Free bus. 

Hotel Hacienda: 580 O'Farrell street. European plan, 
$1.50 a day with private bath, $1.00 a day without. Caters 
to family trade. 



40 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

From Third and ToTi>nsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Jones street and walk one block north. 

From the Ferr^ building take any Market street car, transfer 
to Ellis street and get off at the same point. 

Hotel Herald: Comer Eddy and Jones streets. European 
plan, $1.50 per day with private bath, $1.00 per day without; 
50c additional to above rates for two people. Cafe in con- 
nection. 

From Third and Toxvnscnd depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Jones street and walk one block south. 

From Ferr'y building take Turk and Eddy, No. 4, passing 
the door. 

Hotel Holland: 161 Ellis street. European plan, $1.00 
to $2.50 a day and 50c additional for two in a room. Caters 
to a tourist and local trade. 

Free bus. 

Hotel Manx: Powell and O'Farrell streets. European 
plan, $1.50 a day and up. Grill in connection. Sample 
rooms for commercial travelers. Caters to a tourist. State and 
commercial trade. 

Bus at 25c per person, or 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Powell street and Walk one block north. 

From the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer 
to Powell street, or take the Geary Street Municipal Railway 
to Powell street and walk « ^^^^f block south. 

Mission Central Hotel: Sixteenth and Valencia streets, in 
the Mission District; 75 rooms; single or en suite. European 
plan; 75c to $1.50 a day. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 1 5, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, to Market 
street and transfer to Valencia car. No. 9, passing the door. 

From the Ferry building take Valencia car No. 9. 

Hotel Normandie: Sutter and Gough streets. European 
or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; 



Some of the Hotels 41 

American, $2.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Caters 
to a family and tourist trade. 
Free automobile bus. 

Pacific States Hotel: 556 California street, between Mont- 
gomery and Kearny. European plan only ; no cafe or grill. 
Rooms $1.00 a day; with private bath, $1.50. 

Free bus, or 

From Third and Torvnsend depot take Line 15 or 16; from 
steamer docks take Line 16; from the Ferr\) building walk 
up Market to California street cable car, tphich passes the door. 

Palace Hotel: Market street, between Third and New 
Montgomery. 680 rooms. European plan, $2.50 a day and 
up. Cafe and grill in connection. Sample rooms for com- 
mercial travelers. 

Bus from all depots at 50c a passenger, or 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearn]) and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky* No. 16, to Market 
street and rvalk east half a block- 

From the Ferr}^ building take any Market street car, passing 
the door. 

Hotel Potter: Mission and Ninth streets. European plan, 
50c to $1.00 per day; $2.50 to $4.00 a week. Cafe in 
connection. 

From Third and ToTvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, and transfer at Mission street to west bound car. 

From Ferry building take any Mission street car. 

Hotel Regent: 562 Sutter street. European or American 
plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; American, 
$2.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, and 
transfer at Sutter to west bound Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3. 
passing the door. 

From Ferry building take any Market street car to Sutter 
street and transfer to Sutter street car, No. 1 , 2, or 3. 



42 



Handbook for San Francisco 



Hotel Richelieu: Van Ness avenue and Geary street. Eu- 
ropean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.50 a day 
and up; American, $3.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. 

From Third and Townsend depot taf^e Kearny^ and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer 
to Cear^ Street Municipal Railxpay and get off at Van Ness 
avenue. 

From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- 
rvay to the same point. 




UNION SQUARE AND THE ST. FRANCIS HOTEL. 

Roehampton Hotel: 419 Golden Gate avenue, corner of 
Larkin. European plan, 75c a day and up. Caters to a com- 
mercial and tourist trade. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Market street, transfer to McAllister street, 
get off at Larkin and walk a block north. 

From the Ferry building take McAllister street car. Line 
No. 5, to Larkin street, and rvalk a block north. 

Hotel St. Francis: Powell and Geary streets, facing Union 
Square Park, 1 ,000 rooms ; single or en suite. European plan, 



Some of the Hotels 43 



$2.00 a day and up. Cafe and grill in connection. Sample 
rooms for commercial travelers. 

Bus from all depots at 50c a passenger, or 

From Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky^ ^o. 16, transfer 
to Geary Street Municipal Railway and get off at Powell street. 

From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- 
way to Powell street. 

Hotel St. James: Van Ness avenue, near McAllister street. 
European plan, 75c a day and up. Cafe in connection. 
Caters to a family trade, tourists, out of town agents. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Market street, transfer to McAllister car. 
Line No. 5, and get off at Van Ness avenue. 

From the Ferry building take McAllister No. 5, to Van 
Ness avenue. 

San Marco Hotel: 386 Geary street. Each room with 
private bath. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in 
connection. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Mason street and walk two blocks north. 

From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- 
way, passing the door. 

Hotel Sorrento: 364 O'Farrell street, between Mason and 
Taylor. All rooms with private bath. European plan, $1.50 
to $2.50 a day. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Taylor street and walk one block north. 

From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- 
Way to Taylor street and walk one block south. 

Hotel Stanford: 250 Kearny street. European plan, 
$1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for 
commercial travelers. Caters to country trade. 



44 Handboo}( for San Francisco 

From Third and To'wnsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky^ ^o. 16, passing 
the door. 

From the Ferr]) building take Third and Kentucky No. 16, 
passing the door. 

Hotel Stratford: 242 Powell street, near Geary. Euro- 
pean plan, 75c to $2.50 a day. 

Free bus, or hotel mil pay cab or taxicab charge. 

Hotel Stervart: 353 Geary street. European or American 
plan; with or without private bath. Rates, European, $1.50 
a day and up; American, $3.50 a day and up. Cafe in con- 
nection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. 

Bus from depots and docks at 25c a person, or 

From Third and Toipnsend depot take Third street car and 
transfer to Geary street direct to hotel. 

From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- 
Tvay, passing the door. 

Hotel Sutter: Sutter and Kearny streets. European plan, 
$2.00 a day and up with private bath; $1.50 a day and up 
without bath. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- 
mercial travelers. 

From Third and Totvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky y No. 16, passing 
the door. 

From the Ferry building take Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 
3, to Kearny street, or 

Hotel will pay cab or taxicab charge. 

Hotel Tallac: 140 Ellis street. European plan, $1.00 a 
day and up. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, passing the door. 

From the Ferry building take any Market street car to 
Powell street and walk « block north to Ellis, or transfer to 
Ellis street car, passing the door. 



Some of the Hotels 45 

Hotel Terminal: 60 Market street. European plan, $1.00 
to $2.00 a day. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- 
mercial travelers. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 and trans- 
fer to Market street car east bound. 

From Ferr}^ building this hotel is within a short ivalk directh 
up Market street on north side. All Market street cars pass 
the door. 

Hotel Turpin: 17 Powell street. With or without private 
bath. European plan, $1.50 to $4.00 a day. Sample rooms 
for commercial travelers can be arranged. Caters to a family 
and commercial trade. 

From Third and ToTvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 
Line No. 20, to Powell street and walk half a block south. 

From the Ferry^ building take any Market street car to 
Powell street and walk half a block north. 

Union Square Hotel: Post and Stockton streets, overlook- 
ing Union Square. European or American plan. Rates, Eu- 
ropean, $1.00 to $2.00 a day; American, $3.00 to $4.00 a 
day. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial trav- 
elers. 

Bus from docks and depots at 25c a person, or 

From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach 
car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, transfer 
to Sutter street car. Line No. 1 , 2 or 3, west bound, get off at 
Stockton street and walk one block south. 

From the Ferry building take Sutter street car. Line No. /, 
2 or 3, get off at Stockton street and walk one block south. 

Hotel Victoria: Bush and Stockton streets. European or 
American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 to $2.50 a day; 
American, $3.50 to $5.00 a day. Dining room in connec- 
tion. Caters to a tourist and family trade. 

From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 



46 Handbook for San Francisco 

Line No. 20, transfer to Powell street, get off at Bush and 
TDalk one block east. 

From the Ferry building take Sutter street car. Line No. /, 
2 or 3, to Stockton street and Tvalk one block north. 

Hotel Von Dorn: 242 Turk street. European or Amer- 
ican plan. With or without private bath. Rates, European, 
$1.00 to $3.00 a day; American, $2.50 to $4.50 a day. 
Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. 
Caters to commercial, family and Army and Navy patrons. 

Free bus. 



TOURIST AGENCIES, VALIDATING OFFICES, 
INFORMATION BUREAUS, TICKET OFFICES. 

Addresses are given as they were in 1913. If offices have 
been moved, consult the telephone directory. 

Thos. Cook ^ Sons' office is at 689 Market street. 

Dunning, H. W. & Co. : Claus Spreckels building, 703 
Market street, corner Third. 

Raymond & Whitcomb : Monadnock building, 681 Mar- 
ket street. 

Ems-Bourne Tours Co. (Ltd.) : Phelan building, 760 
Market street. 

• Exposition Tour Co. (San Francisco) : Russ building, 235 
Montgomery street. 

Peck-Judah Co., Inc., Free Information Bureau: 687 
Market street, in the Monadnock building; offers an extremely 
useful free information service. 

Round trip tickets are validated in the office of the railroad 
on which the traveler leaves San Francisco. 

The Southern Pacific Company maintains a complete infor- 
mation bureau in the Ferry building, south of the main wait- 
ing room; another at 884 Market street, in the Flood building, 



Tourist Agencies, Etc. 47 

and a third at the Palace Hotel. Travelers can make the 
two uptown offices their headquarters, and will find there writ- 
ing desks and stationery for their use. 

A full information service is maintained by the Western 
Pacific at the Ferry building and 665 Market street; by the 
Atchison, TopeJ^a & Santa Fe at its offices in the Monadnock 
building, and by the Northwestern Pacific at the Ferry building 
and at 874 Market street. 

Time tables of all railroad and steamship lines operating on 
the Pacific Coast, and rates of fare to all points on the Coast, 
will be found corrected monthly in the Railroad Blue Book, 
for sale at all news stands and on trains at 1 5 cents. 

Vessel movements to and from San Francisco and important 
coast ports, including Hawaii, are reported daily except Sun- 
days in The Guide, published at 2 1 5 Leidesdorff street. 

Most of the railroad and steamship ticket offices are grouped, 
at present, in the Flood building, Market and Powell streets, 
and vicinity; the Monadnock building, on Market near Third 
street, and the Palace Hotel on Market at New Montgomery. 



BATHS AND NATATORIA. 

San Francisco is well supplied with baths and swimming 
resorts, most of them rebuilt after the fire on well-considered 
plans. 

One of the largest and handsomest institutions of the sort is 
the Lurline Ocean Water Baths, in a Pompeian building at 
Bush and Larkin streets, accessible, by transfer, from all Mar- 
J^et or Sutter street cars. 

Here is a swimming pool 65x140 feet, supplied with filtered 
ocean water. There are apartments for Turkish, Russian and 
electric light baths. The tub rooms are fitted with fresh and 
salt water and with showers. Open until 10 p. m., from 6 
a. m. during the months from April to October inclusive, and 
after 7 a. m. from November to March, inclusive. The use of 



48 



Handbook for San Francisco 



tub or natatorium is at the rate of 40 cents, or three tickets for 
$1 for adults. Children under 12, 20 cents. 

The Sutro Baths, at Point Lobos, vicinity of the Cliff House, 
are the largest institution of the kind in the world. They can 
be reached by Sutter and California line No. 1 marked ''Cliff,'' 
by Sutter and Clement line No. 2, McAllister No. 5, Ellis 
and Ocean No. 20, or b^ the California street Cable by 
transfer. 







«y r 



GifAAD STAUa'ASK, SUTIfU i'.ATll.S. 

The building is open from 7 in the morning until 1 1 at 
night, in summer, and in winter, from November to May, it 
is open until 6 p. m. There is an admittance fee of a dime for 
adults and five cents for children, and the bathing privileges 
are at the rate of 40 cents for adults or three tickets for a 
dollar, and 25 cents for children or five tickets for a dollar. 

HAMMAM OR TURKISH BATHS, open to the pub- 
lic are: 

Burns' Hammam, 229 Ellis street, between Mason and 
Taylor. Turkish or Russian; salt water plunge; open day 



Baths and Natatoria 49 

and night; separate ladies' department. Baths $1.00, which 
includes sleeping accommodations for the night. Can be 
reached by Ha^es and Ellis car. Line No. 21 , on transfer from 
any Market street line. 

Sultan Baths, 624 Post street, between Taylor and Jones. 
Turkish or Russian ; fresh water plunge ; open day and night ; 
separate ladies' department. Baths $1.00, including sleeping 
accommodations for the night. This establishment also has 
regular hotel rooms at a charge of $1.00. Taf(e Montgomer}^ 
and Tenth street line (no number) by transfer from Market at 
Post and Montgomer'^; or Sixth and Sansome line tp transfer 
from Market at Taylor street. 

Empress Turkish Baths, 957 Market street, between Fifth 
and Sixth streets; men only; Turkish or Russian, or Nauheim 
medicated; salt water plunge; baths $1.00 or 6 tickets for 
$5.00. Includes sleeping accommodations for the night. 

85 Third Street; men only; Turkish and Russian; open 
day and night. Baths 75c, including sleeping accommodations 
for the night. Kearny line No. 15, or Kentucky No. 16. 

James Lick Baths, 1 65 Tenth street, between Mission and 
Howard; tubs; for men, women and children; open daily, 12 
to 6 p. m. ; Saturdays, 1 2 to 8 p. m. ; Sundays, 7:30 to 10 
a. m. ; baths 1 5 cents. 

Montgomery and Tenth street car line (no number). Market 
No. 8, Valencia No. 9, Sunnyside No. 10, Tn>enty-fourth and 
Mission No. 11, Ingleside No. 12, Cemeteries No. 14, Ocean 
VieD) No. 26, Howard (no number). 

Alameda Baths, in Alameda. A popular open-air swim- 
ming resort during the season. Southern Pacific ferry to Ala- 
meda Pkr, and Encingl Loop lino, to Fifth street. 



50 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

RESTAURANTS. CAFES, GRILLS. 

Almost everyone that has heard of San Francisco has heard 
of its French restaurants. They are famous among travelers 
cind people fond of good living, and the cuisine and service are 
not surpassed anyv/here. 

Dining out is so general that one must know the restaurants 
to know the city. Early conditions of prosperity established 
their character. Nothing was too good for the daring and 
successful San Franciscans of early days. There was an abun- 
dant food supply, and good cooks came from France and 
Italy. The demand for the best cookery was intensified in the 
sixties and seventies by the open-handed, epicurean brokers and 
speculators of the Comstock days. High standards then set 
have never been departed from, but the prices are still the 
lowest to be found. At some of the best San Francisco res- 
taurants the charge for table d'hote is from 75 cents to $L25, 
and this for a dinner, with wine, that could not be approached 
in the large Eastern cities for $3. A good dinner can be 
obtained for 50 cents. 

WHAT TO EAT. 

The locality has produced its peculiar delicacies. Its "cold 
cracked crab and beer" have been sung in nostalgic numbers 
by more than one exile. The crabs are a large, hard-shelled 
sort, of most delicate taste, found only on the Pacific Coast. 

California oysters, contrary to the rule in other products, 
are very small, about the size of a twenty-five cent piece, but 
their coppery savor has tickled the palate and evoked the 
praise of many a gourmand from Mobile, or New Orleans, or 
the shores of the Chesapeake, where people know oysters. The 
small, salty white shrimp is a tidbit of the bay waters that is 
highly prized. It is often served with oysters, especially in 
the oyster booths of the different markets, but is less abun- 
dant of late, owing to the prohibition of the Chinese shrimp net. 

Good pompano is caught near at hand, but it is not so much 
appreciated here as elsewhere because of competition, on the 



Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 51 

menu, with the local "sand dab," a small, flat fish, like a 
sole, but daintier. When properly cooked, dry and golden 
"a la King," the sand dab is one of the real treasures of the 
sea. 

Mussels are a marine delicacy apt to be new to the 
stranger. 

French bread is another delight of San Francisco. It comes 
in long loaves of glutinous crumb and crisp golden crust, such as 
you find in Paris, but not elsewhere. 

Artichokes were early introduced by the French population, 
and grow in abundance, having found a peculiarly congenial 
climate. 

Every form of Italian paste is manufactured here as well 
as it can be made in Italy, and cooked to perfection in San 
Francisco's French and Italian restaurants — lasagne, tagliarini, 
macaroni, spaghetti, ravioli — with a sauce of stock, dried 
mushrooms, a soupcon of tomato and perhaps a dash of saf- 
fron; inimitable at home. Try the "fritto misto," the "fried 
mix." If one brown dainty fails to suit you, there is plenty of 
variety. Polenta, made of corn meal, and risotto, made of 
rice, with the paste sauce, are typically Italian and excellent. 
The climax of an Italian dinner should be a tumbler of sam- 
baione, or sabayone, however it may be spelled. It is a sort 
cf baked eggnog, made with imported Marsala wine. 

Squabs are not peculiar to San Francisco, but gourmands 
say that nobody knows what a squab can taste like until he 
has eaten one prepared at one of the better-class Chinese res- 
taurants, in Chinatown. 

These trifles are well to know; but the homely viand of San 
Franciscans of every class, except the rare dyspeptic, the 
material of midnight suppers for rich and poor, at home and 
"down town," is the modest but caloric "tamale," a sort of 
Mexican and Indian ambrosia of chicken and pounded corn. 
FRENCH RESTAURANTS. 

One of the famous French restaurants of the city is the 
"Poodle Dog," on Mason street, between Eddy and Ellis. The 



52 Handbook for San Francisco 

"Poodle Dog" began its interesting career as a purveyor to 
epicures on Dupont street, near Clay, moved south to Dupont 
and Bush, moved again to Eddy and Mason street, and after 
the fire to its present location. It took its name from the 
poodle of the original proprietor. At the Bush and Dupont 
street location the "Old Poodle Dog" continued business until 
the fire, and this, too, was a favorite dining place. There were 
patrons for both, and both were excellent. The "Old Poodle 
Dog" merged, after the fire, with "Frank's" and "Bergez's," 
equally popular with discriminating diners-out, and the com- 
posite institution will be found at 42 I Bush street, just above 
Kearny, where the standards of the old places are well main- 
tained. 

New Franks, 447 Pine street, is a French restaurant of the 
type of the old days where the dining room is plain but the 
cookmg excellent. 

Needless to say, San Franciscans "love music with their 
meals" and at most of these restaurants they get it. 

Marchand's, another old favorite, is now conducted by 
Michel, an attache of the old place, at the northeast corner ot 
Geary and Mason street. Down Geary street, toward the 
Square, are Solari's and the New Delmonico, both good. 

A good French restaurant is the St. Germain, at 60-64 
Ellis street, near the Cort Theater. The Cosmos, at 658 Mar- 
ket street, Borlini's, at 714 Market, and Lombardi's, at 161 
Sutter, are all good. 

A favorite in the financial district before the fire, was 
Jules'. It is now in the Monadnock Building and upholds its 
former reputation. Then there is Blanco's, at 857 O'Farrell 
street, Jack's Rotisserie, at 615 Sacramento street, between 
Kearny and Montgomery, a good place for game; Negro's at 
625 Merchant street; Felix' at 643 Montgomery, where the 
pastes are good and the walls are decorated with creditable 
paintings. 



Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 53 

The Mint, at 61 5 Commercial street, just off Montgomery, is 
a snug and cosy sort of place, where a cheerful coal fire blazes 
on winter evenings. It is opposite the old Sub-Treasury build- 
ing, which stood on the site of the United States Mint in which 
Bret Harte held a position as secretary to the superintendent. 

Frank's New Restaurant, at 447 Pine street, opposite the 
California market serves an excellent table d'hote. 

The gala night life of the city surges about the brilliant 
cafes at the junction of Market, Eddy and Powell streets: 
the Portola-Louvre in the Flood building, the Odeon at the 
Eddy street gore, the Techau Tavern at 7 Powell street; and 
the Tait-Zinkand, or "Tait's", at 168 O'Farrell street, oppo- 
site the Orpheum. Some of these supply entertainment of the 
vaudeville or cabaret type. Here the sparkle and vivacity of 
San Francisco bubble forth after the theater and make the 
smaller hours the merriest. Tables for Christmas and New 
Year's eve celebrations must be engaged far in advance. 

One distinctive type of restaurant was multiplied by the fire 
— those claiming lineal descent from the old "Fly-Trap," or 
Fashion Restaurant. Before the fire there was but one, at the 
foot of Sutter street, a sort of French-Italian place, renowned 
for the moderation of its charges and the excellence of its 
fish and ducks. There are several now, conducted on about 
the same plan and scale, reproducing with fidelity the quality 
and service of the original. One is on the south side of Sutter 
street just below Montgomery. Another, Louis' Fashion, is 
on Market street at 524. Charley's Fashion is at the south- 
east corner of Ellis street and Anna Lane, and there is also 
a Charlie's Fly Trap at 507 Market. 

ITALIAN RESTAURANTS. 

Generally speaking there is no hard-and-fast distinction be- 
tween the French and Italian restaurants in the business section 
of the city, and either may serve the other sort of table d'hote 
on request. In fact the art of serving these dinners is now 
San Franciscan as much as Parisian or Milanese or Florentine. 



54 Handbook for San Francisco 

In the Latin quarter, however, there is a group of restau- 
rants that are distinctively Itahan. They may be found along 
Broadway near the crossings of Kearny street and Columbus 
avenue. Here are the Trovatore, the New Buon Gusto, the 
Fior D'ltalia, and the Dante. One is apt to hear good 
music at the dinner hour, especially at the last named. To the 
epicure, the Italian dishes served at these places have no equal. 
Prices are moderate. 

At 1549 Stockton street, near Columbus avenue, is the 
Gianduja, one of the best Italian restaurants, where the cook- 
ery is especially good. 

Down on Davis street near the Colombo Market is an- 
other group of Italian restaurants, some of them of a more 
particular fame among nocturnal San Franciscans. The mar- 
ket is on Davis street, between Clark and Pacific, opposite Getz 
Brothers' wholesale establishment. Beside the market entrance, 
and at the Clark street corner, is Lucchetti's where the cook- 
ing is of the genuine Italian family sort, and the place itself 
has a flavor as pronounced. Here you get grated cheese in 
your soup, the pastes are good, the Bordelaise redolent of just 
the proper amount of garlic, the electric piano plays for a 
nickel-in-the-slot and sometimes tempts the patrons out on 
the floor for a dance between courses. For the better guidance 
of those that do not like such things it should be said that 
there is a bar in the main dining room. 

On the other side of the market entrance is Sanguinetti's, 
equally well-known. Each place has its clientele. Along 
Davis street, toward Market, are the Lido, another Gianduja, 
and several other Italian places. 

"Coppa's" has long held a warm place in the affections of 
the artist-Bohemian crowd. Before the fire it was in the 
southwest corner of the Montgomery block, at the corner of 
Montgomery and Merchant streets, where walls and ceiling 
were decorated with the grotesque fancies of its artist fre- 
quenters. You will find a good expression of the spirit of the 
place in Gelett Burgess' novel of San Francisco life, "The 



Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 



55 




CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS. 



Heart Line." Coppa's is now at 450 Pine street, and you 
may know it by the black cats painted on the bay tree boxes 
in front. Follow them inside and you will see astonishing art 
works on the walls. 

Another place of distinctive character is Bonini's Barn res- 
taurant, at 609 Washington street, just off Montgomery. A 
truss of hay marks the spot. Here you dine agriculturally, 
among mangers, under rafters from which wisps of fodder 
protrude, in the company of stuffed fowls which seem about 
to cackle over the omelets that are served by waiters in chap- 
erajos. 

Milan & Dan's at 123 Powell, is another old favorite in that 
neighborhood ; which is well supplied with good bakery luncheon 
places. 

High in the regard of old San Franciscans is the name of 
Campi's, one of the earliest Italian and French restaurants. By 
successive removals it has traversed the business district from 
Merchant and Sansome streets to the Claus Spreckels building 



56 Handbook for San Francisco 

at Third and Market. It was founded in 1854, and still re- 
tains a few patrons of the early days. 

MEXICAN AND SPANISH RESTAURANTS. 

One should make the acquaintance of the Mexican res- 
taurants of San Francisco. It should be remembered that 
Mexican cookery is the cookery of the abstemious Spanish 
people, with Indian corn added to the larder. Here thrive 
the tamale, "chili con carne," frijoles, first stay of the early 
gold miners, and the enchilada. But be temperate with the 
sauce in the little oval dish. It is even redder than it looks. 

There are two good Mexican restaurants in the Latin quar- 
ter: Matias' Mexican, at 726 Broadway, and the City of Mex- 
ico, at 734 Broadway. A couple of Spanish restaurants in 
other parts of the city are, the Castilian cafe, at 344 Sutter 
street, between Grant avenue and Stockton, and La Madrilena, 
at 1 77 Eddy, near Taylor. 

The Creef^ Colony occupies the vicinity of Folsom street, 
from Third west, with its commercial part strung along the 
latter thoroughfare. Here are cafes and restaurants, with the 
signs printed in the alphabet of Xenophon; the Acropolis, the 
Macedonia, the Venus, the Constantinople and others. There 
is nothing to eat in the Greek cafes — no refreshment except 
tiny cups of coffee thick with the powdered berry and sweet- 
ened to the taste of syrup, which you sip at little marble top 
tables while you watch the scions of old Athenians smoking the 
hookah, or playing dominoes and pool. 

For Greek cooking and Greek wines, go to the restaurants, 
not the cafes. 

GRILLS. 

Some of the places known distinctively as grills achieved 
fame for their ducks, terrapin, crab a la Newburg, and other 
specialties. One of these is "John's" at 57 Ellis (formerly 
with Gobey). Gobey himself is dead but his widow con- 
ducts a grill at 1 40 Union Square avenue, the little street that 



Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 57 

points directly at the Dewey Column, from Grant avenue 
between Geary and Post. Next to Gobey's is Girard's, of the 
same family, with a good patronage from the physicians and 
professional men that have offices near. The Bay State grill 
at 275 O'Farrell street, is good for any sort of meal. 

Collins & Wheeland, at 347 Montgomery street, conduct 
a bar and grill much frequented by brokers and professional 
men that have their offices in the financial center and are fond 
of good salads and good beef. It is one of the old institutions 
of the city. 

German grills are plentiful in San Francisco, and remark- 
ably good. In the lower part of town there is Schroeder's, a 
place for men, at 1 1 7 Front street, near California. Prices 
are moderate and the cooking excellent. Another is the Com- 
mercial restaurant, at 225 Pine. Another German cafe for 
men, and one at which the prices are very modest is the 
Hammonia, at 453 Bush street, near Grant avenue. Farther 
up town, for men and women, and slightly more elaborate, are 
Beth's, at 9 Ellis; the Heidelberg, at 37 Ellis; and the Hof- 
Brau, in the Pacific building at Market and Fourth streets. 
Then there is the grill in Herbert's Bachelor Hotel at 151-159 
Powell. 

OYSTERS AND SHELL-FISH. 

For oysters and other shell-fish, including San Francisco 
shrimps, the clawless lobster of the coast and the delicious hard- 
shell crab that is found only here, there are good stalls in 
the larger markets, such as the California Market, on Pine 
street, between Montgomery and Kearny; and in the Spreckels, 
the Washington, the Lincoln and the Bay City, all of which 
are situated in Market street between Third and Sixth. The 
Pearl oyster house in the California Market has been a favor- 
ite resort with San Franciscans for two generations. Its founder 
is one of the proprietors of the Portola-Louvre. Mayes' Oyster 
House, in the Cahfornia Market has a branch at 30 Third 
street, and another at Sutter and Polk. 



58 Handbook for San Francisco 

Another well-known place is the Oyster Loaf, at 55 Eddy 
street. 

Among the best restaurants making a specialty of shell-fish 
is Darbee & Immel's Shell-Fish Grotto, at 245 O'Farrell 
street. This is the only restaurant making a specialty of shell- 
fish dinners exclusively. 

BREAKFAST AND LUNCHEON. 

Good dinners necessitate dainty breakfasts, and San Fran- 
ciscans have the places that supply them. In 1876 the Vienna 
Model bakery opened on Kearny street with the sort of service 
and fare it had been giving at the Centennial exposition at 
Philadelphia in that year. It met with immediate success, 
and became a cherished institution. The name and traditions 
are preserved on O'Farrell street, opposite "Tait's," and near 
the Orpheum. At the Golden Pheasant, on Geary street near 
Market, one can get as fine a breakfast and luncheon as any- 
where in the country, for as little money. Swan's, another 
bakery restaurant at 140 O'Farrell street is very good. This 
is not to say that these places do not serve dinner. 

A dainty place in the shopping district is the Tea Cup, up 
stairs at 225 Post street, near Grant avenue. 

A very popular place in the lower part of town, and one 
where home cooking is served, is Grover's, at 121 California 
street. It started in a tent after the great fire. It is not open 
evenings. 

The Emporium department store on Market street, between 
Fourth and Fifth has a good luncheon place. So has Hale 
Bros., Inc., at the corner of Fifth and Market, where there is 
a cafeteria and a Pompeian cafe. 

The California Poppy, at 738 Market street, is a good place 
for luncheon and tea. 

For good service at any time of day at reasonable prices, 
Suhr's, at 723 Market can be recommended. For luncheon, or 
afternoon tea, the Women's Exchange, at 70 Post street, oppo- 



Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 59 

site the Mechanics-Mercantile Hbrary, is good, and moderate in 
its charges. 

THE CLIFF HOUSE, AND HIRAM COOK's GRILL. 

The Chff House is a cafe and restaurant that is famous all 
over the world. It should be mentioned again that this is a res- 
taurant, not a hotel. 

And not least, but last because farthest out and more of a 
luxury for people that like to range abroad by trolley car or 
automobile, is Hiram Cook's Grill and Buffet, on Nineteenth 
avenue between Vicente and Wawona streets, in the Parkside 
district. 

The fashionable life of the city can be seen at luncheon 
or dinner at the St. Francis or the Palace Hotel. At the 
former afternoon tea is served in the Tapestry Room, and at 
the latter in the large court. 



WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. 

/. — An Hour's Walk in the Downtown District — The Stock 

Exchange. 

From Lotta's Fountain, at the junction of Market, Kearny 
and Third streets, where flowers are sold in the open air the 
>ear around and the Christmas eve outdoor music festivals are 
held, walk north three blocks to Bush. 

Almost at the beginning, at 50 Kearny street, you come 
to one of the show-places of the city — the Diamond Palace 
of Col. Andrews. The show window displays examples of 
the quartz jewelry that appealed to the San Franciscans of an 
early day. Within, it is a place of mirrors endlessly reflecting 
the splendors of white Corinthian columns and crystal chan- 
deliers, and of paintings of the dazzling figures of history and 
the Old Testament. Overhead is a portrait of the Colonel 
himself, one of the most picturesque of pioneer San Franciscans. 



60 Handbook for San Francisco 

Walk eastward down Bush street, here the third street 
from Market. About the center of the block, on the south 
side, at No. 353 Bush, you come to the San Francisco StocJ^ 
Exchange. This is the leading mining stock bourse of the 
world, the institution through which was transacted more busi- 
ness, in the days of the Comstock mining excitement, than on 
any other exchange at that time. Its home here is temporary, 
built on a leasehold to serve immediate necessity after the fire 
of 1906. 

You may enter the "visitors' gallery" railed off for clients, 
back of the main floor where the trading is done. The brokers 
have a youthful appearance, but here and there among them 
you will see the gray head of an old-timer, who remembers 
the world-famous deals of the "Seventies" and expects more 
like them "when the water is pumped out of the Comstock 
and the workings are opened down to the three-thousand foot 
level." 

The exchange was organized in 1 862. 

As much as $43,000 was bid for a seat in 1875, with no 
seller. 

The Comstock lode itself lies along the eastern side of Mt. 
Davidson, in the Washoe range, Nevada, for a distance of 
about two miles. 

On the quotation board you can read the principal names 
of the underground hoards — Ophir, Gould & Curry, Con. 
Virginia, California, Kentuck, Mexican, Savage, Best & 
Belcher, Hale & Norcross, Crown Point, Potosi, Yellow 
Jacket, Chollar ; hoards that produced mogul's ransoms, names 
that conjured across the continent and across the ocean some 
of the most adventurous men the nineteenth century produced. 

Such a scene as this was the stage of one of the golden 
romances of California, and the focus of interest for the 
mighty figures that stalked through it; such men as James R. 
Keene, a dominant figure in Wall street during these later 
years and until his death in January, 1913; Flood & O'Brien, 
"Lucky" Baldwin, John P. Jones and William M. Stewart 



M; 



An Hour's Walk Down Town 



of Nevada, George Hearst, Mark McDonald, Alvinza Hay- 
ward, William Sharon, John W. Mackay, James G. Fair, 
George I. Ives. Jones, Stewart, } (earst, Sharon and Fair 
became United States senators. Th( e men were giants, and 
the tradition of them remains as a vital part of the conscious- 
ness of San Francisco, a thing that helps give it, as a city, a 
feeling of individuality and distinction. 

There is still much trading in Comstocks, and to it has 
been added the operations in Southern Nevada shares — Gold- 
field, Tonopah, Manhattan, Bullfrog — and a consolidation 
has recently been effected with the oil exchange, so that a 
quite considerable business is focussed at this point. There are 
three regular sessions and one long informal session a day. 
The mining session opens at 9:30 a. m., and is followed by 
informal trading that may continue until 2:15. The oil board 
sessions open at 11:15 a. m., and 1:15 p. m. The caller 
is Joseph L. King, chairman of the board and author of a live- 
ly history of it. 

Looking down Bush street, one sees at the corner of Mont- 
gomery the Mills building, an office building erected by the 
late D. O. Mills. A block beyond, at the northwest corner 
of Sansome, is the building of the Standard Oil Company of 
California, in which are housed all the general offices of the 
corporation. If you were to follow this block around you 
would come to the site of the new United States Sub-Treasury^ 
building, at the southwest corner of Pine and Sansome street, 
which will cost, complete, $834,300, and with equipment 
will probably come to $1,000,000. 

Retrace your steps on Bush street and continue westward 
to Grant avenue, passing "Bergez, Frank's, Old Poodle Dog, 
one of the famous French restaurants of San Francisco. At 
the corner of Grant avenue you can look up to the right and 
see the pagoda-like ornamentation on the buildings at the en- 
trance to Chinatown, which we shall leave for another one of 
these "walks." 



62 Handbook for San Francisco 

For the present, turn southward (towards Market street). 

On the right hand side of Grant avenue is the book ^hop of 
Paul Elder, a place of distinction. The interior is simply and 
harmoniously Gothic, sc craftily planned and consistently exe- 
cuted that it conveys an irresistible spell of medievalism. 

This is the neighborhood of fine jewelry stores, fur stores 
that offer furs as fine as any to be found in London, galleries 
of interesting paintings, which the public is welcome to visit. 

Union Square is just beyond, a palm garden set in the midst 
of hotels and smart shops. Its east line is Stockton street, and 
down about half way of the square, at the corner of the nar- 
now street called Union Square avenue, is A. M. Robertson s 
book store, notable for its varied stock which the owner is con- 
tinually enriching by his own publications of such writers as 
Ambrose Bierce, Herman Scheffauer and George Sterling. 
This publisher has probably done more to make California 
authors and Western literature known than any other one man. 

On the west side of the Square, occupying the site of old 
Calvary Presbyterian church, is the Hotel St. Francis, equal 
in appointment and service to any hotel in the world. 

The Deive}) monument rises in the center of Union Square, 
commemorating the victory of Manila Bay. 

Looking down Sutter to the right, one sees the Pacific Cas 
& Electric Company's building, decorated with a large map of 
the Central California counties, in 30 of which this San Fran- 
cisco enterprise serves over 32 1 ,000 people with water, gas, 
and electricity for light and power. Across Sutter street 
is the Temple Emanu El, the city's oldest Jewish house of 
worship, the beautiful architecture of which is famous, with the 
turrets that were surmounted, before the fire of 1906, with 
those graceful Oriental domes that became a sort of insignia 
of San Francisco. Adjoining the synagogue on the south 
is the first site of the Tivoli Opera House — the Tivoli Gar- 
dens of old. 

Westward on Sutter is one of the handsome art stores of 
the city, that of Vickery, Atkins & Torrey. 



An Hour's Walk Down Town 



63 



It would be a pity for any one that has a feeling for beau- 
tiful design and fine specimens of craftsman skill to leave San 
Francisco without having seen this shop. 

Thence, westward to Mason street. Beyond is a part of the 
burned district formerly occupied by old time dwellings and 




INTERIOR OF A SAN FRANCISCO RETAIL STORE. 



a few modern hotels, now rapidly rebuilding to hotels and 
apartment houses and destined to be the most densely popu- 
lated part of San Francisco. 

Turn down Mason toward Market. At Post is the First 
Congregational church. Looking up Post one can see on the 
right the brown brick building of the O/ijmp/c Club^ the oldest 
amateur athletic organization in the world, and one of the 
finest clubs in San Francisco. More about it can be found 
through the index. 



64 Handbook for San Francisco 

Next beyond the Olympic is the red brick building of an- 
other famous San Francisco Club, the Bohemian. 

Southward on Mason street one comes to the building 
known as N. S. G. W. Hall — the headquarters for the Native 
Sons of the Golden West, a fraternal and benevolent organiza- 
tion formed among the native born sons of California to pre- 
serve the traditions of the pioneers and the spirit of state 
patriotism. 

At the corner of Geary and Mason streets is "Marchand's," 
one of the celebrated French restaurants of the city. 

To your right, on Geary street is the Columbia theater, 
noteworthy for its colorful facade. The large buildings which 
you see beyond, at the corner of Taylor street, are the Clift 
and Bellevue hotels, among the finest in the city. 

Farther down Mason street, on the west side between Ellis 
and Eddy, is the famous Poodle Dog restaurant. 

Continuing on Mason street toward Market, one sees, down 
Eddy street to the left, the new Tivoli Opera House, standing 
on the site it occupied for many years when it was the fore- 
most home of opera bouffe in the United States, and where sym- 
phonies and grand opera were produced as well. It was at 
the Tivoli that San Francisco audiences "discovered" the voice 
and art of Luisa Tetrazzini and proclaimed to the world a 
new operatic star. 

At the foot of Mason street, on Market, is the "Native 
Sons" fountain, with the romantic figure of the youthful pio- 
neer, "dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden West, to 
commemorate the admission of California into the Union, Sep- 
tember the ninth. Anno Domini MDCCCL." 

Turn down Market toward the Ferry and you will be in 
the main stream of the city's life. Here, from Mason to 
Kearny streets, is the thickest of the traffic, on the sidewalk 
and in the roadway. 

Between these imposing Market street buildings the street 
is 120 feet wide. 



An Hour's Walk Down Town 65 

On the other side of the street, at the corner of Powell, is 
a stately pile of grey sandstone built some time before the fire 
on the site of the old Baldwin hotel, by James L. Flood, son 
of James C. Flood, the great mining operator of the Comstock. 
It is the largest office building west of Chicago and contains 
over 900 rooms. 

Here, at Market and Powell, is the center of the city's night 
life. The whole neighborhood, from seven o'clock on, blazes 
with lights and swarms with automobiles and pleasure seekers. 
This is a street of large buildings and of department stores, 
such as Prager's, Hale's and the Emporium. The green-tiled 
Pacific building, at the corner of Fourth street, is the largest 
reinforced concrete office building in the world. (The Com- 
mercial building next to it stands on the site of the old Acad- 
emy of Sciences.) 

On the north side of Market street, near Montgomery, one 
of San Francisco's landmarks, the Hobart building, is to be 
rebuilt during 1914, filling the last big gap in lower Market 
street created by the fire of 1 906. Of pressed brick front and 
terra cotta and granite trimmings, the structure will rise for 
twenty-one stories, or a total of 3 1 5 feet. It will have a front- 
age of 92 feet 5 1 -8 inches and the ground floor will be arranged 
in attractive stores. One million dollars is the estimated cost. 

Next is the Humboldt Savings Bank building, 18 stories 
and 245 feet high. Farther down the street, at the corner of 
Third street. Newspaper Square, is the Claus Spreckds build- 
ing, one of the most beautiful commercial buildings in the world, 
1 9 stories, counting the dome, and 3 1 5 feet high. 

A few more steps brings us to Lotta's Fountain, and News- 
paper Square. 

This round can be made in an hour if you do not linger — 
which you are quite likely to do. 

SOME TALL BUILDINGS IN SAN FRANCISCO. 

Hobart Building, Market below Montgomery; 21 Stories. Height, 315 ft. 
Humboldt Savings Bank Bldg., 783 Market; 18 Stories. '* 245 " 

Claus Spreckels Building, Market and Third; 19 Stories. " 315 



66 



HandbooJ^ for San Francisco 




ENTRANCE TO CHINATOWN. 



A Walk in Chinatown 67 



Hearst Building, Market, Third and Kearny; 12 Stories. Height, 163 ft. 

Mutual Savings Bank Bldg., 706 Market; 12 Stories. " 190 " 

Chronicle Building, Market and Kearny; 17 Stories. " 219 ** 

Merchants' Exchange Bldg., 431 California; 14 Stories. " 200 ** 

Insurance Ex. Bldg., Cal. & Leidesdorff; 11 Stories. " 167 " 



WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. 

//. — Chinatoipn. 

Situated between Kearny and Stockton, California and 
Pacific Streets. 

Kearny Line No. 15, or Kentucky No. 16, to California 
Street and walk ^ block Ti)est to Grant avenue; or California 
street cable or Sacramento street cable, to Grant avenue. 
Easily reached afoot from the downtown hotel district. 

You can "do" Chinatown by automobile, taxicab, or one 
of the sight-seeing motor cars that start from Market street 
west of Newspaper Square every evening at 8 o'clock. These 
cars furnish guides and charge a dollar a passenger. But the 
best way to see and enjoy it is to prowl through it afoot. 

You could spend all the working days of a month going 
up and down its swarming streets and choked alleys, won- 
dering at the inscrutable denizens and their little moon-faced 
children, listening to the sing-song language, smelling the reek 
of leeks, punk and incense, until you acquired unconsciously 
the habit of looking on yourself and other strayed Caucasians 
as foreigners, and still but scratch the surface of interest in this 
most fascinating city of America. 

For Chinatown is a city, of and by and for itself. There 
is nothing like it in any other part of the country, although 
they may have the recipe for chop suey elsewhere. There 
can not be anything like it in China, for it is at least encysted 
in a Caucasian social tissue. It is and always will be San 
Francisco's Chinatown, unique and outlandish, a foreign coun- 
try of ten city squares, supposed to be a part of Canton, or 
a part of Tartary, as you please; living its own customs, 



68 Handbook for San Francisco 

rites and practices, modified by the white man's laws as far 
as the United States Marshal's office and the "Chinatown 
Squad" from the Hall of Justice are able to put them into 
effect. 

Yet those will not find the main interest in Chinatown that 
persist in regarding it as a weird and horrible slum. It is not. 
Between eight and nine thousand Oriental people live within 
the few blocks of the district, almost no whites dwelling among 
them, and while they exhibit racial peculiarities that bewilder 
the western mind, it is safe to say that the percentage of the 
law-abiding is as high here as in many other parts of the city. 
Avoiding trouble is a Chinese national habit, and nowhere is the 
white visitor more secure in property or person. 

Chinatown has changed, both in its "physical plant" and 
customs. For half a century its tenants built and burrowed 
in it, shaping it to their uses, until it was a strange place, 
full of mystery and surprise, with picturesque curbstone in- 
dustries and sidewalk stalls, and communicating catacombs 
where half its population huddled, and axe-proof doors be- 
hind which some of them carried on the allied industries of 
pi-gow, fan-tan, poker and lottery drawings. 

These conditions have largely altered for the better. The 
fire burned out the quarter; and the unsanitary hovels with 
their strata of accumulated fillh, cell-like chambers, wander- 
ing galleries and sidewalk encroachments disappeared. When 
Chinatown rebuilt it was on modern, sanitary lines and ac- 
cording to the most approved city ordinances. 

THE CHINESE TRANSITION. 

The people, too, have changed. Just now they present the 
anomalies of transition from eastern to what they conceive 
to be western ways. It is the day of the Republic. The 
Manchus are gone from the throne of the Middle Kingdom. 
The Dragon Flag has disappeared from Chinatown and so 
have the queues that once hung, a sign of Manchu domination, 
down the backs of its merchants, bankers, pawn brokers, clam 



A Walk in Chinatown 69 

dealers, rag pickers, down to the humblest male resident. The 
comfortable and dignified Chinese dress is vanishing. Even 
the tong wars grow beautifully less, and the hatchet-men that 
carried them on are growing scarce, and hard to hire ; these 
very tong wars, by the way, being unknown in China, and a 
peculiar reaction from conditions in this country. 

The writer has been in a Chinese home in Grant avenue, 
where the girls and women of the household were absorbed 
in the preparation of the beautiful little stage sets used for 
the feminist feast of the Seven Sisters — the Chinese myth ot 
the Pleiades — pagan, and possibly as ancient as the Book of 
Job — and he has gone thence directly into another Chinese 
home, behind barred doors above dark flights of stairs, where 
the names of the daughters of the household were engrossed 
on grammar school certificates hanging on the walls, and the 
oaken bookcase contained such volumes as "West's Ancient 
World," a source-book of English history, and a copy ol 
Bryant's translation of the Odyssey. 

In the history of the Chinese revolution, San Francisco should 
loom large as a factor. When the death of Tsi Ann weak- 
ened the Manchu tyranny, these San Francisco Cantonese 
had been living for three generations in contact with a virile 
western civilization, and were able to testify to their home-keep- 
ing countrymen that China's institutions were not built above the 
summit of human intelligence, and possibly could be improved. 
Here Dr. Sun Yat Sen was given asylum ten years ago, and 
the movement received organized support. Here was estab- 
lished the Chinese Republic Association, one of the most pow- 
erful influences outside of China in bringing about the down- 
fall of the Manchus. 

Some old customs have been modified, but much remains. 
The principal festivals are still kept. These people have a 
genius for elaborate decoration, which finds no field in the 
Spartan bareness of their homes, but blossoms out in vivid 
color and fantastic ornament to make their ceremonies a delight. 
With their huge processional dragon (now in Golden Gate 



70 Handboof( for San Francisco 

Park Museum), their beautiful umbrella-shaped standards, their 
saffron flags and their traveling tableaux and floats, they have 
made the Portola parades of San Francisco a wonder that 
could be seen nowhere else on the continent. 

If you are lucky in the hour of your wandering, you may 
see a funeral or hear a wedding — and the weddings are easy 
to hear, for part of the ceremony consists in paying out a cable 
of fire-crackers from the second story balcony of some res- 
taurant, and letting the dangling end burn off about a foot 
above the curb, with frequent discharges of bamboo-wound 
bombs. If the bridegroom is sufficiently prosperous the din 
may last until long after midnight. 

Funerals take their ancient way, with the exception of a 
"young Chinese band" at the head, playing European dirges. 
Follows a cab-full of the real old Chinese music, with deaf- 
ening crashes of great brass cymbals, squealing trumpets, and 
mad banging of a gong slung from the roof of the hack. Then 
the hearse, and on the seat beside the white driver a Chinese 
that throws to the breeze small oblong pieces of tissue paper 
with perforations through which the pursuing demons must 
crawl and thus be heavily handicapped. 

Directly behind the hearse comes the black figure of a Taoist 
priest, performing on cymbals decorated with a fluttering ban- 
neret. He precedes the widow, who walks in white, the 
Chinese mourning color, bowed double with grief, face hidden, 
and supported by two sad-faced sisters in black. They are 
hired to look sad, and they give good value for the money. 

Next a block of hired mourners: women in blue gowns and 
pantaloons, with their heads hidden in white cowls. More 
cabs, full of relatives and friends, gongs and cymbals; and, 
finally, an express wagon loaded with paper effigies of serv- 
ants for the departed, to be burned at the cemetery, and the 
funeral baked meats for his subsistence as he starts on his long 
journey; roast pig, crawfish, chicken and other favorite viands. 

All Grant avenue turns out to see, and the balconies of 
the side streets are thronged. The comment is apparently dis- 



A Walk in Chinaiorvn 71 

criminating and critical, and as a topic of discussion the epi- 
sode lasts the afternoon. 

AMONG THE BAZAARS. 

A conspicuous fact about Chinatown is that it consists, 
on the street level at least, almost wholly of shops. The mer- 
chant class predominates, and it practices a rigid and unde- 
viating commercial honesty. What a Chinese merchant prom- 
ises he performs. 

The main axis of the quarter is old Dupont street, now 
Grant avenue. Near Market this is one of the finest Ameri- 
can retail shopping thoroughfares in the city, but beginning at 
Pine street you find yourself among Japanese stores, which 
carry handsome and costly stocks of silks, prints, bronzes and 
porcelains; and at California you enter the group of pagoda- 
roofed buildings that house the finer Chinese bazaars and form 
the entrance to the Chinese quarter. Here are the beautiful 
establishments of the Sing Fat Company, the Sing Chong 
Company, the Canton and the Shanghai bazaars, the Nanking 
Fook Woh Company, the Wing Sing Loong Yokohama Com- 
pany, the W. Sang Lung Company, of Chee Chong & Co., 
and Yuen Lee & Co. Millions are invested in the stocks of these 
establishments, and they attract visitors from all over the 
world. You will not find such collections of Chinese art wares 
in any other city, in or out of China. 

The names of these bazaars are not, usually, the names of 
their proprietors, but expressions of poetic sentiment or invo- 
cations of fortune. In the most modest of them you may find 
the oriental treasure bit that makes the strongest appeal to 
you and at the smallest price. The Chinese attendants are 
uniformly courteous, and whether you buy or not you are 
welcome to admire and enjoy the wonder-works in silver, 
bronze, enamel, lacquer, teak, rosewood, porcelain, carven ivory 
and sumptuously embroidered silks. 

Along this street are some good Chinese restaurants, with 
recessed balconies where huge globular lanterns bob in the 



11 



Handboof( fcr San Francisco 



breeze, and with "tea gardens" on the top floors, where one can 
dine upon dishes of the toothsome Chinese cuisine. Preserves 
and tea are served at modest rates; and, on a day's notice, 
almost any of these places will arrange dinners at prices rang- 
ing from $2 to $20 a cover, that will include such delicacies 
as birds' nest soup, snow fungus, shark fins, "chop suey," 




THE NEW YEAR LIIJKS. 



"chow yuk," squab, bamboo shoots, almond pudding; chicken, 
pork and noodles served in the various oriental modes, ac- 
companied by plum and pear wines, and beginning, always, 
with dessert. Chinese orchestras can be engaged to accom- 
pany the feast. 

Live fish are imported in tanks from China for banquets 
here. 

At the north corner of Clay street is one of the deadwalls 
used as a bulletin board. Here advertisements and notices of 
all sorts, in black Chinese characters on the universal red 



A Walk in Chinatorvn 73 

ground, are posted, and here eager knots of men can be seen 
gleaning the news of the day. No people is more keen for 
news and the little community supports four daily papers printed 
in the Cantonese dialect. 

Butcher shops, grocery and drug stores along this medieval, 
looking street present curious sights — dried roots and herbs, 
jars of sea-horse skeletons, dejected ducks flattened out and 
varnished, and hung up to tempt the epicure, gobbets of pork 
from which the butcher hacks a cat-meat cut for his frugal 
patron. 

Note, on the counters of the merchants, the abacus, the 
primitive adding machine, old as the Pyramids and still in 
use among these conservatives. 

On the south side of Washington street, below Grant ave- 
nue, in the pretty little curly-cornered and green-tiled Oriental 
building next the corner, is the Chinatown exchange of the 
Pacific Telephone and Telegraph Company. The manager, 
Mr. Lo Kum Shu, is a Chinese. The operators are Chinese 
girls, and their employment here is in itself an anomaly, for 
Chinese women are not supposed to work for wages. Hence 
the screens at their backs, protecting them, ceremonially at 
least, from observation. One can, however, peek through the 
glass door, and see that in addition to bemg clad in fetching 
Oriental costumes, they are incredibly quick and skillful with 
the plugs. 

They are almost perfectly ambidextrous, working equally 
well with either hand. In addition, the telephone offi- 
cials inform us, they are gifted with wonderfully clear and 
tenacious memories. There are over 1 200 Chinese telephone 
subscribers in Chinatown, and these girls respond all day with 
hardly a mistake to calls that are given by the name of the 
subscriber instead of by his number — a mental feat that 
would be practically impossible to most high-schooled American 
misses. 

Up Jackson street from Grant avenue are several manufac- 
turing jewelers' shops, where the jewelers and gold-carvers 



74 Handboo}( for San Francisco 

can be seen at work making bracelets and rings and setting jade 
ornaments. On the left, as you go westward, is the entrance 
to historic Ross a//e\j, once lined with gambling places, where 
the lookout in the dingy vestibule could close a dozen iron- 
clad doors with a single word; now an innocent-looking place 
where wholesale merchants sit in dim little counting houses and 
reckon their profits on importations of Chinese ware. 

Occasionally at night groups of Chinese can be seen in 
these stores, behmd screens that hide them from the shoulders 
down. No doubt they are gambling; but neither you nor 
any other white man will get near enough to see, and swear to, 
the layout and the money. 

Returning southward through Ross Alley you emerge on 
Washington street, from the opposite side of which Waverly 
Place opens on the left and Spofford Alley on the right. There 
is a modest sort of Joss house in Spofford Alley. Waverly 
Place, two blocks long, contains many of the buildings and 
meeting places of the "tongs" or Chinese mutual benevolent 
associations. 

A JOSS HOUSE. 

At 125 Waverly Place is the building of the Sue Hing 
Benevolent Association, its upper story a Joss house and one 
of the finest in the quarter. This word "Joss," by the way, is 
the Chinese corruption of the Portuguese "Deos, ' meaning 
God, which the Chinese first heard at the Portuguese trading 
port of Macao; so that a "Joss house" is, literally, a House 
of God. The Chinese worship individually, never in con- 
gregations. 

This Joss house is the Temple of the Queen of Heaven^ 
sumptuous with gilded carvings and enameled urns, vivid with 
the colors of paper-flower work, and of banners and standards 
borne in processions and public fetes. 

It opens at the east end, with the altar facing west, as all 
proper Joss houses do. A small purchase of incense or punk 
sticks or a chunk of sandalwood acts as an admittance fee. 
Within the ornate shrine sits the lady herself, the god of War 



A Walk in Chinatown 75 

on her right and of Wealth on her left. There is another shrine 
on the left that is devoted to feminine worship, but the main 
one is for the men. Standing in rails to north and south 
are the silver standards of the gods in battle. The vv^alls bear 
tall inscriptions from sacred writings, on gilded backgrounds, 
donated by wealthy communicants, and corresponding roughly 
to our memorial windows. The drum and gong at the north 
side open and conclude the devotions. 

On the table before the main shrine is a cylindrical bamboo 
box full of splints, with what we should call "fortunes" 
written on them. By shaking the box properly, the supplicant 
can make one splint emerge, and thus obtain oracular pro- 
nouncement on his affairs. If necessary he can even shake 
out a medical prescription. 

Near at hand is a pair of blocks made from bamboo root, 
shaped like halves of a crookqd cucumber and red on the 
rounded sides. These are used for divination, and in function 
are said to be identical with the Urim and Thummim of the 
ancient Hebrews. After kneeling with his back to the Lady, 
the searcher after celestial life raises them three times above 
his head, kow-towing to the east, and then throws them on 
the floor, when, if they fall different sides up, he is sure his 
prayer will be answered or his venture succeed ; if they fall 
red sides up, he may chance the doubtful enterprise; but if 
they fall flat sides up, the signal is set against him, and he re- 
peats his orisons, throwing the blocks again and again, until 
they fall to suit him — believing, as we all are prone to do, 
in the omens that he makes himself. Running almost across 
the room is a large table with cast tin urns on it. This is 
a sort of altar, of which more when we reach the next Joss house. 

Follow Waverly Place through to Clay street and turn 
up-hill to Stockton. The Chinese Consulate General is at the 
southeast corner of Clay and Stockton. To the right, at 915, 
is the shop of Num Sing, the lantern maker, whose great bub- 
bles of tinted light grace the balconies of homes and restaurants. 
South of Clay street, at 843 Stockton, in the building with 



76 Handbook for San Francisco 

the blue enameled vestibule, is the conclave hall of the Six 
Companies, Chung Wah Woey Kwoon, the Chinese Consoli- 
dated Benevolent Association. This is the most influential 
organization in the Chinese community, the power that dis- 
penses the higher and the lower justice, sitting as a court of 
arbitration in trade disputes and doing equity among the Fami- 
lies and the Tongs. Visitors may enter if the door is open. 
The place is handsomely appointed, with colored glass screens 
and gilded grills, carved teak chairs with marblestone backs, 
a long council table and a row of seven seats where sit the 
presidents of the Six Companies, with a place of honor for 
the Consul General. 

From the meeting place of the Six Companies, continue 
southward to Sacramento street. Up the hill, at 920 Sacra- 
mento, is an institution known all over the United States for 
the invaluable work it has done in behalf of unfortunate Chi- 
nese girls and women: the Woman's Occidental Board of For- 
eign Missions. In April, 1913, it celebrated the fortieth 
anniversary of its founding. Many a romance has been writ- 
ten and many another will be about the helping hand and pro- 
tecting care given otherwise helpless human chattels by its 
heroic superintendent. Miss D. M. Cameron. 

The mission house contains dormitories, kitchens, dining 
rooms, a fine assembly hall, and two school rooms for a pri- 
mary school and seminary, where Chinese girls are educated. 
It has been a home for hundreds of unfortunates that had no 
other, and here they have received not merely *'book learning" 
but practical domestic training until they have become fitted 
for marriage and the duties of their own households. 

Of late the mission has become so rooted in the life of 
Chinatown and has gained such a degree of confidence among 
the Oriental population that Chinese merchants are beginning 
to send their daughters to it for tuition, especially when the 
girls are motherless. 

As you pass down Grant avenue on the north side it will 
be interesting to turn north a few steps on Waverly Place 



A Walk in Chinatown 77 

Ic No. 1 8, the composing room of the Chinese Free Press. 

Here you can look through the windows and see Chinese 
compositors setting up a Chinese newspaper. Instead of 
twenty-six letters and some punctuation, the Chinese type font 
must contain over four thousand ideographic characters, each 
representing a complete word. As a result, the cases are 
huge affairs, taller than a man and twelve or fourteen feet 
long, and among them the compositors weave about in a solemn 
and soft-footed sort of lancers or quadrille, picking out a char- 
acter here, and another in the next case, and another across 
the room. With such a system of literation, type-writers are 
impossible and a linotype keyboard would look like an acre 
of lettuce. 

White visitors are not encouraged to enter the composing 
rooms of any of the Chinese dailies, the type being too val- 
uable and the Christian souvenir hunter's morality too frail. 

Leaving Waverly Place, follow Sacramento street down to 
Grant avenue, and cut across St. Mary's Square, southeasterly, 
to Pine street. At Pine is the imposing entrance to the prop- 
erty of the Kong Chow Friendly Society and the Temple of 
Quan Dai, a larger Joss house than the Temple of the Queen 
of Heaven, and in some particulars more interesting. These 
two are the leading Joss houses in San Francisco, and owing 
to changing faiths and ideas, no more are likely to be built. 

At the entrance you pass around a screen formed by two 
swing doors, with pictures of ancient warriors: men-at-arms 
of the god, and guardians of his temple. The screen is found 
similarly placed in all orthodox buildings in China, even in 
dwellings. It does not form much of an obstruction to men, 
who can walk as crookedly as necessary, but is baffling to 
devils, whose well-known habit it is to make a rush in a straight 
line whenever the door is opened, and who bump their heads 
on the screen and retire in dismay. 

On the walls of the high-ceiled entrance hall are vermilion 
slips of paper, bearing the names of members of the congre- 
gation and the sums they have subscribed to the upkeep of 



78 



Handbook for San Francisco 




IN THE TEMPLE OF QUAN DAI. 

the place; the largest subscriptions at the top. A door opens 
into a handsome court with a fountain at the east side, just 
under a huge red disk like the face of the sun painted on the 
wall. 

The stairs leading to the Joss house on the top floor start 
from the left-hand door; the main entrance, and the door at 
the right, open into chapels devoted to a simpler sort of an- 
cestor worship. A considerable area of valuable real estate 
has been devoted to courtyard space in order to orient the 
building. 

A CHINESE DEITY. 
Quan Dai was a great warrior of some two thousand years 
ago, raised to high station by his emperor and deified after 
death for his nobility of character and many virtues. He is 
the tutelary deity of the Kong Chow association, and here his 
effigy is enshrined in a jungle of gilded carvings, hung with 
green embroidered curtains and bedecked with peacock feathers 
for luck. He is supported by two smaller figures, and before 



A Walk in Chinatown 79 



him are three lesser deities personifying the natural elements. 
The shrine carvings represent Chinese myths and highly ethical 
teachings; and the delicate handiwork, executed in China, 
well repays close scrutiny, for in depth and intricacy, and vigor 
cf treatment, it equals some of the best Swiss output. 

The offering of tea, on the litde inlaid teak table before 
the god, is replaced afresh every morning by the temple keeper, 
when he lights the taper in peanut oil on the altar and sets 
the punk sticks smouldering in the big bronze urn. Always 
three punk sticks are offered at a time, representing the Chi- 
nese trinity of Earth, Heaven and Man. These things are 
not done in adoration of the god himself so much as in exaltation 
of the virtues he exemplifies. 

To the right of the shrine as you face it, is Quan Dai's faith- 
ful warhorse, about six hands high and of extraordinary 
"points." On the left is represented his battle lance. Beside 
it is the drum and bell with which the worshipper announces 
himself, and which, his devotions over, he strikes to indicate 
that it is finished, and to bid the god goodby. 

Before the shrine, a richly-wrought lantern hangs, with a 
light that burns unceasingly, teaching that devotion must not 
be an intermittent "Sunday piety," but a consistent and con- 
tinuous state of mind. 

The standards of the god and his followers are reproduced 
here in wood, and with them are the bamboo helmets of an- 
cient times. Golden scrolls adorn the side walls, given by 
members of the society and bearing eulogies of the god. Over- 
head hang other writings on handsome teak and ebony boards. 
Some testify to the rectitude of the temple management and 
others express the most exalted philosophical concepts. In 
reading the Chinese characters, always begin at the right. 

Back of the altar is a space for the religious exercises of 
the communicant. Here he prays, and here he casts the divin- 
ing blocks for answer to his prayers. Here also are the oracle 
sticks in their bamboo box. Behind this space is the Heung 
On Toi, or table of the Heung On; five tall vase-like objects 



80 Handbook for San Francisco 

of cast tin decorated with small enameled pictures. The outer 
two are for compositions of paper flowers, extraordinary in 
their color and perfection of detail. The inner two are for 
candles, as on the altar of a Christian church. The central 
one is for incense. 

The outer half of the table carries bronze vases for in- 
cense and punk. At present one of them holds a tall stick of 
sandal wood, thick as a man's wrist, with the name of the 
donor pasted on it, and from this sweet-smelling bough a chip 
is whittled to be burned as occasion requires. 

On a carved teak stand is a contorted root of sandal wood, 
giving out the faint perfume the Chinese love. 

More gilded carvings line the front of this table, under glass 
and wire screen, for these are very costly. In the upper 
corners are some fine representations of submarine scenes — 
crustaceans and fish, amid weird sea plants. The lower tier 
of carvings is a fairy-land of Chinese myth. 

There are two small shrines in the eastern corners, shelter- 
ing smaller gods of fortune and guardians of the east portal, 
who also seem to act as agents for the collection of celestial 
dues, one of them receiving the offerings and the other handing 
them up. 

The furnace for the burnt offerings of this temple is in the 
small chamber to the north, opening from the east end. Here 
gold and silver paper are burned by the devotee in the expecta- 
tion that the god will transmute them into the real thing and 
return them an hundred fold. 

On the birthday of the god, sacrifices of pork, chicken and 
fish are brought to his shrine and then taken home and eaten. 
Some bring them at the beginning of the year, seeking favors; 
and some at the year's end, in gratitude for the blessings they 
have received. 

FESTIVALS. 

The beginning of the A^en; Year is the great Chinese festival. 
It is everybody's birthday. Mercantile accounts are squared. 



A Walk in Chinatown 81 

and the papers canceled in the temple furnaces. For six weeks 
before, the lily bulbs, set in stones and water, have been 
nursed in sun and shade to bring the lucky blooms at just the 
proper date. Beginning in the afternoon, fire-crackers scold the 
old year out and hail the new year in. The cymbals and the 
tom-toms resound. In stores and households, the odors of 
sacrifice are offered to the gods and the substance is feasted 
on by men. There is universal congratulation, offered at 
tea parties and social calls, with much munching of cakes 
and melon seeds and sweetmeats. The children are dressed 
in their best. At no other time does the quarter exhibit such 
smiling amiability and general good-will. Everybody feels 
so good the drug stores close their doors, for no one could 
need drugs at such a time, and besides, it is a bad way to begin 
the year; and if any one does need them the medicaments are 
handed out surreptitiously, wrapped in joyous red paper in- 
stead of the usual white, to conciliate the spirit of the occa- 
sion. 

The festivities last a week, ending with "Man's Day" 
when all conventional restraints are off and every one enjoys 
himself as he likes. 

This is a good time to visit Chinatown. From the best 
information obtainable at present, the date, which used to 
fall in February under the Empire, will be made to coincide 
with ours, though how they will make their lilies bloom then, 
is a question for some Chinese Burbank. 

The festival of the Seven Sisters occurs about the middle of 
August. You may see a rough lumber balcony erected across 
the south end of Ross Alley, with the little figures and scenes 
displayed on it. Formerly it was the occasion of rivalry 
among the girls of different families to see which could pro- 
duce the most beautiful miniature dragon, and one year the 
prize was won by a large and vigorous cockroach trigged out 
with melon seeds. 

A little later, on the fifteenth of the eighth month, occurs the 
Moon F^aU, when mooji-?haped cakes are baked in quantity. 



82 



Handboof^ for San Francisco 



Joss papers are scattered abroad, and the moon is worshipped 
with the most beautiful creations of the lantern makers swung 
from windows and balconies. 

Toward the end of the year occurs the Seew Yee, or sac- 
rifice of clothing; but it is only burned in paper effigy, includ- 
ing representations cf the chests in which it is kept, and with 




YOUNG CHINA. 



the canny purpose of getting back fresh apparel from the gods. 
The burning is likely to occur in Spofford or Ross Alley, 
unless, with their altered political mstitutions, our Oriental 
neighbors think it necessary to change their ancient rites in this 
respect. 

The guides take tourists to a few show places we have not 
attempted to describe, like the home of the Singing Children, 
where four little tykes sing such Oriental arias as "Jungle 
Town" and "I'd Leave My Happy Home for You." We 
have heard them better rendered. Then there is the old Chine$e 



A Walk Along the Water Front 83 

musician who lives in a cellar, and plays the Chinese zither, 
flute, mandolin, snake-skin banjo and two-stringed fiddle; exe- 
cuting ''Marching Through Georgia" and other classics. 

But one can not satisfy his interest in one visit to any two 
or twenty definite points. It is the community life that must 
be sensed, the hundred variations of practice, habit and custom, 
manners and art, to make the thing really enjoyable. 



WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. 
///. — The Water Front and Telegraph Hill. 

To those who delight in scenes that wake the imagination, 
a morning's tramp along the water front, with a good, breath- 
ing finish up Telegraph Hill, will be a source of keen delight. 
Top it with a luncheon at a Latin Quarter restaurant and 
you will begin to get the flavor of San Francisco. 

Take the Third street cars anywhere along Kearny or 
Third street, or by transfer from any Market street car, and 
get off at Berry, two blocks below the Southern Pacific depot. 
As you ride down this street, remember that every brick and 
girder of every building (except at the corner of Mission where 
one steel structure survived) is new construction since the great 
fire. Steel frame and brick structures were left standing, 
but "improvements" on Third street and neighboring thorough- 
fares built, of old, in wood, were mowed down to their gaping 
cellars. 

Leaving the car where it turns southwestward into Berry 
street, walk down to the big bascule bridge with the Santa Fe 
sign on it, across the "Channel." The Channel is an ancient 
slough, once connected with Mission creek, now given over 
mainly to the receipt of lumber. 

Go back to Townsend street and follow it northeasterly to 
the Embarcadero. On the way, at the corner of Townsend 
and Second streets, is a handsome concrete building with four 



84 Handbook for San Francisco 

tall stacks that typifies the enterprise, energy and efficiency of 
the new San Francisco. This is Pumping Station No. I of the 
Auxiliary High Pressure Fire Protection System. 

The entrance is around the corner, on Second street, and 
the public is admitted to the little gallery overlooking the 
gigantic water tube boilers and the turbine pumps and engines. 
The other salt water pumping station is across the city at 
Black Point. 

Second street will take you southeast to the Mail DocJ^s. 
Here you will catch a glimpse of the great business that is 
done upon the waters by some of the few remaining Ameri- 
can ships in the foreign trade; see the silks, tea, mattings 
and rice and tin from the Orient coming ashore in big slings 
and being put aboard trains, and the cotton, hardware and other 
home commodities going back to pay for it. 

From this point to Quarantine, by way of the Embarcadero, 
it is a good three miles along "the front," and every step is 
full of interest. Here you will note the ebb and flow of that 
abundant traffic with far lands and strange places which has 
given San Francisco much of its romance and its charm, and 
has made the modern city possible. 

The Water front is rough, alcoholic and unpretty, but it 
swarms with men of brawn and nerve, rovers with the scope 
and vision of the broad Pacific in their brains, from cocoanut 
islands in southern waters to the treaty ports of China, and the 
Arctic ice where they hunt the few remaining whales. The 
whole run of it reeks with briny adventure. It furnished Stev- 
enson with the atmosphere of the "Wrecker," Frank Norris 
with the theme of "Moran of the Lady Letty," Jack London 
with his seal poacher, the "Sea Wolf," and Gelett Burgess and 
Wallace Irwin with the plots and counter-plots of the "Pica- 
roon." 

San Francisco is particularly fortunate in the fact that its 
docks are not privately owned, but are administered by the 
State. Nearly seven million tons of freight a year are handled 
over the wharves at San Francisco. 



A Walk Along the Water Front 85 

Though steam has almost supplanted the sail on the cargo 
carriers of the world, the bowsprit of many an old "wind- 
jammer" is poked across the seawall at San Francisco, and 
able seamen can still be found here that know what it is to 
lay aloft and shorten sail in a Cape Horn gale. 

On a bluff to your left, which is old Rincon Point, is an 
old, square, brick building with porches overlooking the activi- 
ties of the harbor. It is the Sailors' Home, the old U. S. 
Marine Hospital, built by the Federal Government in 1853, 
during the administration of President Franklin Pierce. 

SOMETIMES A WHALER. 

Farther on, at the foot of Howard street, one can sometimes 
find, in early spring, an old whaler, recognizable by its tapering 
spars, its crow's nest aloft, and its rows of timber davits 
from which hang the slim whale-boats. A little later in the 
year they will all be gone. 

After the coal bunkers, and colliers discharging, one comes 
to the Ferry Post Office, and then the Ferri; building, which 
deserves more than passing mention. 

This building is San Francisco's water gate and union depot 
as well, and is one of the great gateways of world travel. At 
its eight slips, there are 1 70 arrivals and departures of ferry 
boats every twenty-four hours, bearing over 1 06,000 people 
into and out of the city. 

The Ferry building itself is an imposing structure, and the 
nave on the second story is 48 feet wide and 650 feet long. 
Here President McKinley was welcomed, midwinter flower 
shows have been held, conventions have been received and the 
delegates registered, and California's soldier boys returning 
from the Philippines were banqueted. In the floor is a mosaic 
representing the Great Seal of California, and on the wall 
nearby hangs an account of its origin and a statement of its 
allegorical meaning. The California Development Board has 
its headquarters here. The Ferry building also houses the 
California State Mining Bureau, with its offices, its library, 



86 



HandbooJi; for San Francisco 




ALONG "THE FRONT." 



Weidner, photo. 



and its immense collection of mineral specimens. Both these in- 
stitutions will be described later. 

You have been passing Telegraph Hill on your left, and 
now come to the Quarantine station, the barge office of the 
Custom House, and the marine reporting station of the Cham- 
ber of Commerce, which furnishes a marine news service that is 
one of the most complete and effective in any port in the world. 

Directly beyond the marine reporting station is Fishermen s 
Wharf, always a busy scene, with swarms of Greek and 
Italian fishermen working at their nets and gear, or landing 
their catches. See index. 

No one should leave San Francisco without visiting this 
locality which reproduces in detail the life aspect of a south 
Italian fishing port. 

In your three-mile tramp around the "front"' you have been 
getting sectional views of the panorama of the bay and the 



A Walk Along the Water Front 87 

opposite shores, beautiful sea-vistas that make you hungry for 
a vision of the whole. Climb Telegraph Hill and you will 
get it. Retrace your steps to the foot of Powell street, turn 
south to Greenwich, just south of the children's playground, 
and then turn east on Greenwich, which will lead you by rough 
ways, through a thickly settled tenement district, past quaint 
Good Children street, to Pioneer Park at the top. 

A SUPERB SCENE. 

From this point, 300 feet above the water, the marine re- 
porting of early days was done by semaphore; when there 
was no overland railroad, when ships were few and far be- 
tween, and every arrival meant the possibility of messages from 
loved ones in "the states," or the coming of wife and chil- 
dren to share the fortune of the mines and make a home in 
California. 

The counterpart of Telegraph Hill exists in no other large 
city in the United States. No one can begin to know San 
Francisco until he has climbed it. 

From the top you can see the imperial city of San Fran- 
cisco in its most interesting aspect. You can see the docks 
and the shipping, brought into one view. You can see the 
grandest harbor of the grandest ocean. You can see the bold 
sweep of the opposite shore, set with smaller cities — Alameda, 
Oakland, Berkeley, Pullman, Richmond — with the hills that 
seem forever marching at their backs, and Yerba Buena island 
in the foreground. You can look straight north into the 
mouth of San Pablo bay, through which run the waters of 
California's mighty rivers, with the red farallone standing like 
a sentinel at its approach. 

To the left. Angel island merges with the Marin hills, 
behind which rises Tamalpais. 

The whole expanse of blue water is troubled with puffy 
little tugs, barges, great steamers entering or leaving, ferry 
boats weaving like shuttles across it. And westward is the 
Golden Gate, winding toward you like the Bosphorus, with 



88 Handbook for San Francisco 

Alcatraz island set like a gem, at its inner end. Perhaps 
there will be a full-rigged ship from England or from China 
majestically moving through the wide channel, making a picture 
you will not soon forget. 

Descend by way of Greenwich street to Kearny, and then 
turn south on the latter street. The neighborhood is thickly 
tenanted and there is no race suicide apparent. Children are 
everywhere, children whose mothers speak to them from the 
door-steps in soft Italian or Spanish, and who reply in crisp 
and startling English. For you are entering the Latin Quar- 
ier^ going down by steep, cleated sidewalks that remind one 
of Genoa. The Italian pervades it, though Greek, Sicilian, 
Mexican and Spaniard are also in evidence — people that love 
the sun and find in San Francisco a congenial clime. 

The whole quarter is reminiscent of south Europe, and yet is 
distinctively San Franciscan, for San Francisco is a city of all 
nations; of and for all races of men. 



WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. 

IV. — Produce Commission District, Noh Hill and 
Russian Hill. 

Directly west of the wharves north of the Ferry building, 
where the river boats land, are four city squares and parts 
of two more, in which about 80 commission merchants handle 
millions of dollars worth of California produce a year. The 
territory extends westerly from Drumm to Front streets, and 
northwardly from Clay to Jackson, running up Washington 
almost a block, to Battery. 

This section of the city is worth seeing for the variety of 
the fruits and produce displayed, and the tumultuous activity 
of its business. 

The dairy produce merchants transact their business on the 
edges of the fruit commission district. 

Facing Battery street and extending from Washington to 



A Walk on Nob Hill 89 

Jackson is the United States Custom House, an impressive 
and beautiful structure, erected since the fire at a cost of a 
million and a half. It is built of granite and handsomely fin- 
ished inside in marble and bronze. Here ships are docu- 
mented and registered, and customs and internal revenue dues 
collected. 

On the western half of the same block with the Custom 
House stands the brick pile known as the Appraisers' Building. 
It survived the fire, practically in its present condition. For- 
merly it housed many of the government offices now in the 
Custom House, but has since been given over to laboratories, 
store rooms and record rooms. 

From the Appraisers building or the Custom House, go 
south to California street, then westward through the financial 
district, up through the south end of Chinatown, and ascend 
to the Fairmont Hotel. This neighborhood is 

Nob Hill — celebrated in the history of the city and well- 
known wherever people are familiar with the achievements 
of the great figures of "Bonanza days" and the era of early 
railroad construction. Here a group of the Comstock mil- 
lionaires and railroad builders erected their mansions — Mark 
Hopkins, Leland Stanford, James C. Flood, D. D. Colton, 
Charles Crocker and W. H. Crocker, his son, and many more. 
Some were gorgeous palaces, embellished in teak, ebony, ivory, 
inlaid pearl-shell and bronze, with mural tapestries and paintings 
by celebrated European artists. They were all swept away by 
the mounting flames except the mansion of James C. Flood, a 
"brown-stone front," that stands across the street from the 
Fairmont Hotel. The Flood home, remodeled and some- 
what enlarged, is now the beautiful Pacific Union club. 

At the southwest corner of California and Powell streets, 
where the Leland Stanford residence once stood, is now being 
erected the largest apartment house on the Pacific Coast, a 
gigantic structure that will cost over a million. A block away 
the San Francisco Institute of Art occupies the site of the 



90 Handbook for San Francisco 

Mark Hopkins mansion, at the southeast comer of Cahfornia 
and Powell streets. 

In the block between Taylor and Jones streets, beyond the 
Pacific Union Club, is the divinity school connected with 
Grace Pro-Cathedral, of the Episcopal diocese. It is part of 
what will be the most important establishment of the Episcopal 
church in the West. Grace Cathedral will rise at the corner of 
Jones street. It will be in the beautiful English Gothic style, 
with a central tower rising 230 feet, or higher than any other 
structure on Nob Hill. At present the crypt is being used tem- 
porarily as a place of worship. 

This block of land was formerly occupied by the homes 
of Charles Crocker and W. H. Crocker, and was a gift from 
the heirs of Charles Crocker to the Episcopal church. 

Every hill-top in San Francisco shifts the scenes and sets 
the stage anew. Fine as the view is from the vicinity of Cali- 
fornia and Mason streets, it is even better from the top of 

Russian Hill. Take Taylor street northward to Vallejo. 
A few stone steps here will put you on the zig-zag trail to the 
top. 

Russian Hill is part of a ridge with two distinct crests, one 
at Vallejo between Taylor and Jones, and the other at Green- 
wich and Hyde streets. Here also was the abode of an 
aristocracy, but an earlier one than that which built up Nob 
Hill. 

Beyond the industrial foreground of North Beach, smoking 
with the energy of its factories, the view is one of splendor. 
The long moles running out from the opposite shore ; the 
cities behind them; Yerba Buena island. Point Richmond 
with its oil tanks and its growing industries, the straits con- 
necting with San Pablo bay, and then Alcatraz island. Angel 
island behind it, Richardson's bay with Tamalpais for its back- 
ground — all these would be beautiful enough for a most ex- 
traordinary picture. But turning to the left one sees the Golden 
Gate in one of its most graceful aspects, like a broad, wind- 
ing stream, with Fort Point thrusting into it from the southern 



By Trolley and Cable 



91 



shore, and just in front the grounds of the Exposition, while 
across the Gate rise the bold hills of Marin county. 

If this ramble has led you far enough, take the cable car on 
Hyde street, south bound, which will deliver you at the cor- 
ner of Market and O'Farrell streets, on the edge of the shop- 
ping district ; or you can transfer from it to the California street 




ALCATRAZ ISLAXD VUOM RUSSIAN HILL. 

cable line, east bound, and be carried over the crest of Nob 
hill and down to the financial center at California and Mont- 
gomery streets. 



HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO BY TROLLEY 

AND CABLE. 

STREET RAILWAYS. 

Three companies operate street car lines in this city; the 

United Railroads of San Francisco, the Presidio & Ferries, 

and the California Street Cable Railway, which operates also 

the Hyde and O'Farrell street line. In addition to these pri- 



92 Handbook for San Francisco 

vate corporations the city operates the Cear^ Street Municipal 
Railroad, from the Ferry to the Ocean Beach, with an exten- 
sion over Tenth avenue to Golden Gate Park. 

Transfer points are too numerous to mention, there being 
a generous interchange between the different companies where 
they do not parallel one another's lines, and, on any given sys- 
tem, between different routes in the same general direction. 
This enables one to get about the city at will for a single 
fare, generally speaking. 

Most lines of the United Railroads carry a number on a 
square lantern on the roof. No lines other than the lines of 
this company are numbered at this date. 

On the Geary street line, cars marked A run from the Fer- 
ries to the Park, those marked B, to the Beach. 

The California Street Cable railroad runs from the junc- 
tion of Market and California streets, near the Ferry, out 
California street to Presidio avenue, where it transfers to lines 
of the United Railroads for the Richmond district. Golden 
Gate Park or the Cliff. It transfers also to the Hyde & 
O'Farrell street cars at Hyde. 

The Hyde and O'Farrell street line runs from the junction 
of Market and O'Farrell streets, out O'Farrell to Jones, on 
Jones north to Pine, on Pine to Hyde, and north on Hyde to 
Beach. An extension from Market and Jones meets the 
O'Farrell street line at Jones and O'Farrell streets. 

All Hyde street cars transfer at Hyde and Union streets 
to the Presidio & Ferries line, which runs from the Ferry to the 
Presidio by way of Washington street, Columbus avenue. 
Union, Larkin, Vallejo, Franklin and Union streets. 

Generally cars stop at near crossings. Exceptions are indi- 
cated by stop signs on the trolley wire. 

Except on leaving Market street, they stop before curves, and 
this is the rule for entering Market. 

As a rule, if you need a transfer ask for it on entering the 
car. On the California street line, transfers are issued on 
approaching the transfer corner. 



By Trolley and Cable 93 



Most of the trolley cars operated in San Francisco are of 
the pay-as-you-enter type, and it will facilitate locomotion 
if you will have your nickel ready. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 1. 

I. Nob Hill, the Colden Gate, Land's End, Sutro Heights, 
Sutro Baths, Cliff House and Seal Rocks. 

Take California street cable car going vpest, and transfer at 
Presidio avenue to trolley line No. I, marked ''Cliff,'' con- 
tinuing Tvest on California street. Return by the same line, but 
omit the transfer coming back- 

The route will take you through the edge of ChinatoTvn, 
over the top of Nob Hill, where the Comstock and railroad 
millionaires built their mansions, out to old Lone Mountain 
Cemetery, where many of them built their mausoleums, through 
the Richmond district, along the bluffs overlooking the Golden 
Gate and to a point within easy walking distance of the Cliff 
House and the Sutro Gardens, Museum and Baths. 

At the corner of Grant avenue, the line passes **Old St. 
Mary's," once the cathedral, built early in the "fifties." On 
the two west corners of California street and Grant avenue 
stand Chinese bazaars, with pagoda-like pavilions on their 
roofs, forming an Oriental entrance to the Chinese quarter, 
which one can see looking northward up Grant avenue. 

Mounting the east slope of Nob Hill, you soon raise Tele- 
graph Hill, to the northeast, and catch a glimpse of Verba 
Buena Island to eastward. The handsome brick structure at 
the east corner of Powell street is the University Club. Across 
Powell street is the Fairmont Hotel, and on the southwest cor- 
ner of California and Powell streets, opposite the Fairmont, 
is Stanford Court, the largest apartment building on the Pacific 
Coast. It is rising on the site of the residence of Governor 
Stanford, one of the "Big Four" that built the first overland 
railroad, who left the bulk of his large estate to found Leland 
Stanford Junior University. 



94 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

Northward up Powell street, the tip of Angel Island ap- 
pears. Southward is a view over the city and the south bay. 

The brownstone building beyond the Fairmont and on the 
same side of the street is the home of the Pacific Union Club, 
and was formerly the residence of James C. Flood, partner of 
W. S. O'Brien in the amassing of much wealth from the 
Comstock mines. 

At the southeast corner of California and Mason streets is 
the San Francisco Institute of Art, on the site of the residence 
of Mark Hopkins, another of the railroad "Big Four." 

The white building on the west side of Taylor street, north 
of California, the right-hand side going out, is the Divinit'^ 
School connected with Grace Pro-Cathedral, and part of what 
is to be the most important ecclesiastical establishment of the 
Episcopal church in the West. 

The cathedral itself will rise at the corner of Jones and 
California. At present services are held in the crypt. 

At Van Ness avenue, the red sandstone building a block 
north is the family residence of the late Claus Spreckels, the 
sugar king. 

At the next northeast corner is the Christian Science Church, 
handsome in composition, and bright in color, with walls of 
varigated brick. 

At Webster street is the synagogue of the Congregation 
Sherith Israel, a dignified structure, part of which served as a 
hall of justice after the fire. To the north of the synagogue, 
on Webster at the corner of Sacramento, are Cooper Medical 
College and Lane Hospital, now the medical department of 
Stanford University. 

At Presidio avenue transfer to Sutter street Line No. I, 
marl^ed "Cliff."' 

The cemetery on the south side of the street at this point 
is Laurel Hill, known to the older San Franciscans as ''Lone 
Mountain Cemetery,'' about which you can find more by con- 
sulting the index. 



B}) Trolley and Cable 95 

The low wooded hills that appear to the north are part of 
the Presidio, founded by the Spaniards as a military post. 
The Presidio is the largest military reservation in the country 
within city limits, and covers 1 ,542 acres. The north shore 
runs out in a long, narrow tongue of land known as Fort Point, 
with Fort W infield Scott at its tip. The reservation is con- 
nected with Golden Gate Parif by a parked strip which the 
car crosses at Thirteenth and Fourteenth avenues. 

North of the Presidio, the Marin county hills and the sum- 
mit of Mt. Tamalpais begin to tower. Soon the car rounds 
a bend to the east of the old city cemetery, and the whole 
Golden Gate swings into the landscape, a superb marine view 
in a frame of bold hills. 

This is close acquaintance with the famous strait, which 
appears here in its loveliest aspect. Bauer's Beach stretches 
back toward Fort Scott. Beyond is Angel Island, on which 
are located Fort McDowell, the United State Immigration 
Station, and the Discharge Camp of the Arm"^, where dis- 
charged soldiers, returning from the Philippines, are temporarily 
quartered. North of Angel Island one looks through Raccoon 
Straits, a short cut for vessels entering the harbor and bound 
"up river direct." 

The channel is full of life and movement — the life and 
movement of vast volumes of water, and of vessels of all sorts 
and sizes, from the gasoline launch or lateen rigged smack of 
the herring fleet, to the great liners plying between San Fran- 
cisco and Hong Kong or Yokohama, and "wind jammers" 
outward bound for Liverpool or Antwerp. 

Beyond the Forty-eighth avenue terminus of the car line. 
Point Lobos avenue winds around a large bluff to connect with 
the Great Highway along the beach. On the left, as you 
begin to descend, is the entrance to Sutro Heights. This beau- 
tiful place, with its palm avenues, its rare trees and brilliant 
flowers, its reproductions of classic sculpture ornamenting shaded 
retreats, its esplanades and balconies 200 feet above the sea, 
with their grand views of ocean and beach and mountain chain. 



96 



Handbook for San Francisco 



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IN SUTRO GARDEiNS. 



is the private garden surrounding the home of the late Adolph 
Sutro, former Mayor of San Francisco; the man that drove 
the famous tunnel into the Comstock lode, unwatering the 
mines and reopening their treasure houses. It is and has been, 
ever since its creation out of the barren hills, open to the public, 
through the munificence of Mr. Sutro during his life and the 
continuance of the same generous policy by the members of 
his family. 

To westward of the residence will be found a broad terrace 
surrounded by the Parapet, on which stand life-size mytholog- 
ical figures, some of them copied from the most famous statues 
in Europe. The view over the sea, and up and down the 
coast is nothing less than wondrous in its beauty. 

Leave the Parapet and descend by the rock stairway to the 
right. This will take you to the Balcony and boardwalk. For 
three miles you can look down a straight, uninterrupted line of 
pounding breakers and sheets of swimming foam, making one 
of the most sublime and inspiring scenes to be found. 



B^ Trolley and Cable 97 

The entrance to the garden is the only pubHc exit. Farther 
down Point Lobos avenue, on the right, are the Sulro Baths 
and Museum. Here is a vast structure covering nearly three 
acres of ground and containing the largest indoor swimming 
tanks ever built. 

The area devoted to bathing purposes is 153 by 285 feet. 
The northeasterly part is divided into five tanks, of which 
four are 28 feet wide by 78 feet long, and the fifth the same 
length and 45 feet in width. The rest of the bathing area 
forms an L-shaped pool, 285 feet long and 75 feet wide, for 
157 feet, when it merges into the base of the L, and runs 153 
feet wide for 128 feet. In addition, there is a fresh-water 
plunge. 

The Museum^ disposed along the promenade and galleries, 
contains some notable displays. 

The building of these baths and the installation of this col- 
lection was one of the last undertakings of Mr. Sutro, who 
died in 1 898, two years after the gigantic structure was com- 
pleted. 

Just below the baths and museum are the Cliff House and 
Seal Rocks. This vicinity is world-renowned. It has been 
the scene of the lavish gaieties of San Franciscans for genera- 
tions. To this place in the past they drove their pairs of 
blooded trotters, and here they come today with the high- 
powered autos. 

From the porch of the Cliff House, Presidents Grant, Hayes, 
Harrison and McKinley have watched the sea lions lolling on 
the rocks. 

The present Cliff House is the third of a series, and was 
erected in 1909, its immediate predecessor having burned in 
1907, the year after the great fire. 

The Cliff House is a restaurant, not a hotel. There is a 
good cafe here, from whose windows one looks out, while din- 
ing, on the glories of beach and surf, ocean and mountains 



98 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

and rocky coast. The public is welcome, under the present 
management, to descend the stone stairs to the broad terrace, 
whence one sees across 300 feet of swirling tide those curious 
marine objects, the Seal Roc^s, and their colonies of gulls, 
cormorants and sea lions. 

These last are of "His wonders on the deep." Their huge, 
obese bodies, like apoplectic aldermen, dragged laboriously 
about the crags ; their small and winsome dogs' heads reared 
with the grace of a fine setter ; their hideous black flippers so 
pitifully inadequate for scaling rocks ; their handsome coats of 
brown, drying in the sun or soaked and gleaming with the 
spray, make an absurd but fascmatmg combination of grace 
and awkwardness, of ugliness and beauty, that one can watch 
and wonder at by the hour. 

At Forty-seventh avenue and Balboa street, within easy 
walking distance of the Cliff House, is the Golden Gate Ostrich 
Farm, with incubators for the huge eggs, and with a rapidly 
growing flock. 

We would advise visitors to return by the line of cars that 
took them "out to the Cliff," as no other is quite so beautiful 
as the run along the bluffs from Baker's Beach to Point Lobos. 



TROLLEY TRIP NO. 2. 

Market street. Park Panhandle, Affiliated Colleges and the 
Heights overlooking the Sunset District and the Pacific Ocean; 
returning h^ the Twin Peaks Switch-hack- 

Take Hay^es street line No. 6, marked ''Ninth Avenue,'' at 
the Ferr^, or anywhere on Market street, going rvestrvard. 
Returning, transfer at Ashhury street to car going south, and 
transfer again at Eighteenth to Castro street Car No. 8, going 
toward Ferr^. Ask for your transfer on hoarding car. 

This route will take you through the heart of the city, and 
to a six-hundred-foot elevation beyond Twin Peaks. From 



By Trolley and Cable 99 

the terminus a short walk will put you on a rocky promontory 
750 feet high, whence there is a sublime prospect of mountain, 
sand dune and ocean. The return will show part of the city 
and the bay. 

Running out Market street, the car passes Marshall Square^ 
the entrance to the old city hall site, which is on the right, 
with the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, and a bronze 
cannon taken from the Spaniards at Santiago de Cuba. The 
red dome rising just eastward of the city hall site is the roof 
of the Hall of Records. 

At the east end of the Park Panhandle one sees the McKin- 
ley Monument to "Peace," and the Southern Pacific Hospital 
on the farther side. 

Beyond the Affiliated Colleges the car runs along the west- 
ern slope of Blue Mountain, now called Mt. Sutro, a forested 
hill that rises on the left to a height of 920 feet. The build- 
ings at its base, east of the terminus, are the County Relief 
Home for the Aged and Infirm, and the Infirmary, temporarily 
used as the City and County Hospital. 

From the end of the car line at Pacheco street and Ninth 
avenue, walk south to Mendoza street, climb the hill to the 
water tank, and thence follow the crest of the ridge out to a 
rocky point, beyond the flag pole. This point is over 750 feet 
above the ocean and opens an unobstructed panorama north, 
south and west. 

No other view within the limits of a city combines in equal 
degree features of such sublimity with others of such delicate 
and quiet beauty. The first object to the extreme right is 
Alcatraz Island. To the north looms Tamalpais, hazy and 
blue in the distance, its lower slopes hidden by the nearer hills. 
That famous waterway, the Golden Gate, shines like a rib- 
bon of blued steel at their feet. Then come the Presidio, 
Golden Gate Park with its slowly turning windmills, and, closer 
in, an immensity of rolling dunes with picture patches of vegeta- 
tion here and there. Homes and cultivation appear, suburban 
gardens and tree-planted tracts. 



1 00 Handbook for San Francisco 

Directly west are the three-hundred-foot towers of the Poul- 
son wireless telegraph. 

Southwestward are the two shining wings of Lake Merced^ 
and still farther south the San Bruno hills send out their sloping 
buttresses and steep escarpments toward the sea. 

Beyond, and all along, making the most wonderful and 
unforgettable part of the picture, is the Pacific Ocean, and 
nowhere can a deeper impression of its majesty be felt than 
here. One sees it throughout a sweep of 1 80 degrees. Distance 
and the altitude level the waves, and nothing breaks the crystal 
plain except the far-off dots of rock that form the outposts of 
the Gulf of the Farallones. 

If this grandeur oppresses, quieter beauties lie below. Ris- 
ing gently through the sloping valley to the south are truck 
farms, winding among wooded areas; little squares of choco- 
late-colored tilth, or framed harmonies in the lush greens of 
market gardens, with the forms and composition of those Eng- 
lish landscapes that tempted the burins of the old engravers. 

Backward, to the east, can be seen a glimpse of the southern 
end of the bay ; and between the crests of Twin Peaks, the tip 
of Ml Diablo. 

Sunset in the ocean, seen from this point in winter, or 
when summer fogs hang low and reflect the fiery glare of 
level rays, is indescribable in words, and the painter that should 
put it on canvas would be suspected of romanticism. 

Naturally, one wishes to see beyond those sharp peaks to 
eastward. On the return trip take a transfer and 

Change at Ashbury street to the southbound car marked 
''Third and Harrison and Park-'' Ask for another transfer 
on boarding the car. 

The car runs behind Mount Olympus, with its statue of 
Liberty, and emerges on the east face of Twin Peaks, passing 
just below the Ashbury Reservoir of the city's auxiliary salt- 
water fire protection system. This tank holds half a million 
gallons, and connects with 75 miles of cast-iron pipe covering 
nearly all of San Francisco. It is fed from the Main Reservoir 



By Trolley and Cable 101 

of the system, on the Peaks above, which holds ten million 
gallons and forms the hydrostatic head of what Charles M. 
Schwab on a recent visit characterized as one of the greatest 
pieces of engineering work in the world. 

The car runs to a switch-back on the west slope of Twin 
Peaks and then winds down to Eighteenth street, affording as 
it does so, a grand vista of the bay and the hills of the opposite 
shore, as well as the Mission and Potrero districts of the city. 
At the corner of Eighteenth and Castro streets. 

Change to northbound car "8" for the Ferry, which mil 
take you down Market street. 

At the head of Van Ness avenue, which you will pass 
coming in, is the citizens' monument to the California Volun- 
teers of the Spanish-American War. 

On the northwest corner of Van Ness avenue and Oak 
street rises the stately and beautiful Masonic Temple. 

Even an average walker can get a glorious view of the city, 
the ocean and the entire bay region from t^e top of Twin 
Peaks, easily accessible from the switch-back, or at the Fire 
Department house nearby. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 3. 

Nob Hill, Chinatown, Fishermen s Wharf, Crab and Fish 
Market, North Beach, Marine Reporting Station of the Cham- 
ber of Commerce, Immigration Station, Custom House Station, 
Quarantine; Latin Quarter, Portsmouth Square and the Robert 
Louis Stevenson Monument, Hall of Justice, Chinatown again. 

Take ''Market and Powell, Bay and Taylor'' cable car, 
north bound, at Market and Powell streets, or anywhere on 
Powell street, or by transfer from any Market street car, and 
go to terminus. Returning, take trolley car marked ''15'' at 
end of Powell street, ask for transfer, and at Kearny and Sac- 
ramento streets change to west bound cable. Ask for transfer 
again, and at Powell change to any south bound car. 

This is one of the most interesting trips in San Francisco, 
or any other city, and, like some other San Francisco trolley 
excursions, is made partly by cable. 



1 02 Handbool^ for San Francisco 

Beyond California, Powell street looks down on the Chinese 
Quarter for a distance of about five blocks. At Jackson street 
the car turns westward, then follows Mason street to Columbus 
avenue, running along the eastern slope of Russian Hill. From 
this elevation there is a fair but somewhat broken view over 
the bay, including Yerba Buena Island, the Alameda county 
shore and the Contra Costa hills back of Oakland and Berk- 
eley. 

On Broadway, westward from Mason street, is a very 
handsome church building, that of Nuestra Senora de Guada- 
lupe, for the Spanish-American population of the city. Ahead 
appears Alcatraz Island, with its prison and lighthouse tower. 
From the turntable at the end of this route walk directly 
north through the lumber dumps to Fishermen's Wharf, which 
you will find around the bend beyond the Neptune Restaurant. 
Here, if you have a liking for the human picturesque, you 
will meet it face to face. 

Fishermen s Wharf is two wharves, in a lagoon formed 
by rough breakwaters. About 1 75 fishing craft find harborage 
here amid special facilities for carrying on the fishing industry. 
The State charges a toll of 75 cents or a dollar, according to 
length of boat. Iron ladders lead up from the water. Ways 
have been built into it. There are high rails, worn smooth 
with use, over which of a Saturday morning hundreds of acres 
of nets are hung to dry. South of the lagoon and east of it 
are boat builders' shops. On the south shore is a blacksmith 
shop, where the necessary fastening, and marine hardware, is 
forged and kept in repair. And all the men engaged here, 
fishers, boatbuilders and blacksmiths, probably over 500, are 
Italian, many fresh from the Mediterranean and still speaking 
only that "liquid music" which is their mother tongue. 

Once they were almost all Genoese, but that was in the 
old days of the graceful, swift and treacherous lateen rig, with 
its lean sail slanting aft like the wing of a gull. Very few 
lateen sails are left, the gasoline engine having superseded 
them; and, with the other changes of time, other places such as 



B^ Trolley and Cable 103 

Naples, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Chiavari, Palermo, and Mes- 
sina, have contributed delegates, until almost all Italy and 
Sicily are represented. The Genoese still stick together, how- 
ever, and amid the parti-colored boats theirs may be distin- 
guished by coats of pale green. 

Here is a complete Old World community at work at its 
own vocation on the shores of the Golden Gate; and it is 
foreign in costume, manner and speech. English is spoken by 
few, and then by accident. Weather-brown men of the out- 
doors go about sea-farmg tasks in regalia such as you see on 
the stage. The general headgear is the Tam O'Shanter, with 
fat pompon atop, woven originally in bright colors, but faded 
into mellow harmonies by a hundred suns. The shirt is a 
colored and often striped jersey. The trousers are belted with 
a twisted sash, and disappear into the cavernous tops of huge 
sea-boots. It reads like the chorus of an opera troupe; and 
it is tradition that a chorus once struck in San Francisco and 
within an hour the manager had forty voices from Fishermen's 
Wharf, and they needed no grease paint and no rehearsals to 
render Verdi and Donizetti with a spirit rare in any theater. 

Thursday afternoon is the best time to visit Fishermen's 
Wharf, when the big catches of rock-cod, smelt, striped bass 
and crabs are brought in to be sold in the free fish and crab 
market around the corner from Caviglia's boat-building shop. 
But there is always something doing, whether it is Thursday 
or not. With block and tackle they may be dragging a boat 
up the ways for paint and repairs — when all bystanders "tail 
on" and pull with all their weight. Or, rocking peacefully 
in the little lagoon, a couple of owners bait hundreds of feet of 
line coiled in a tray, with the hooks caught in the padded rim; 
transfixing anchovies on them with magical deftness, and then 
baiting other trayfuls and yet other trayfuls until the hold is 
filled with trays of line ready for a start at midnight. Or, 
again, sitting in the sun, silent and saturnine, pipe in mouth, an 
iron hoop about his knees and a long shuttle of seine line in his 



04 



Handbook for San Francisco 



hand, a crab fisher weaves a crab net with all the restful cer- 
tainty of an old woman knitting a sock. 

In a shed behind the crab market, a darkened obscurity lit 
here and there by the glow of low fires, the nets receive their 
brown color in huge vats of tannage. 




DRYING NETS AT FlSllKU.MKN S WHARF. 



The little community thinks, dreams and lives fish. The 
children learn the industry by absorption and inhalation. They 
admire like connoisseurs the silver crops landed in baskets on 
the wharf, they lend a hand to make fast the painter as a 
launch chugs in, they clamber over the unclad skeletons of 
boats in Caviglia's, heedless of the chance of falling through 
the ribs or stepping on a chisel. 

The blue sky, the dancing water of the Golden Gate, the 
ships at anchor in the stream, the amethystine hills, the moun- 
tains looming beyond, the islands like Ischia and Capri, the 
keen air with its salty smell, make an environment in which toil 



By Trolley and Cable 105 

resembles sport, and men and boys go about it with a satis- 
faction that finds its vent in jocular shouts and gusty laughter. 

Northward over a convenient plank you reach the marine 
reporting station of the Chamber of Commerce. Beside it, in 
a row of old water-front structures, are the Immigration 
Station and the barge office of the Custom House. The quar- 
antine steamer lies at the dock, and a pilot boat is likely to 
be riding in the stream. For this is the official entrance to 
San Francisco Bay. 

Westward of this point, the wooded hill running out into 
the water is the site of Fort Mason and the Transport Docks. 

Walk eastward along the wharves, where the big steam 
schooners are discharging hundreds of thousands of feet of 
lumber from "up the coast," to the gas-holder at the foot of 
Powell street, and here 

Take Trolley Car ''15,'' southbound, and asJ^ for transfer. 

This car takes you down Powell street to Columbus avenue, 
and then by Union, Stockton and Broadway into Kearny street. 
Down Stockton to Broadway and along Broadway to Kearny, 
you are going through the business section of the Latin Quarter; 
first the business signs bear French names and then Italian, and 
there are several blocks where you will not see an English name. 

Down Kearny street you will pass the Hall of Justice, and 
Portsmouth Square, where stands the monument to Robert 
Louis Stevenson. (See index). 

Change at Sacramento street to westbound cable car marked 
''Ferries and Fillmore via Sacramento and Clay.'* Get a 
transfer. 

This car lifts you up the hill through Chinatown, which can 
only be seen to advantage lingeringly and afoot. 

At the Fairmont Hotel change to southbound Powell street 
cable, which will take you back to Market street and the point 
of beginning. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 4. 

Presidio Military Reservation, and Exposition site at Har- 
bor View, by way of O'Farrell street and the retail and 



1 06 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

apartment house districts. Returning fcp Fillmore street hill. 
Nob Hill and Powell street. 

Take O'Farrell street cable car at Market and O'Farrell 
streets, transfer at Union street to trolley car marked *'Pre- 
sidio,'' west bound, and go to end of line. Returning, change 
at Fillmore street to car bound south (up the hill) and at 
Washington street change again to ''Washington, Jackson, 
Powell and Market'' cable car bound east. 

O'Farrell street affords a fair example of the rebuilding of 
the downtown section of San Francisco. The buildings are 
large, new and beautifully appointed, as they are throughout 
this entire retail section, and the stores are as fine as can be 
found anywhere. 

At H^de and Union streets, transfer to Presidio and Fer- 
ries line, car marked ''Presidio,'' bound west. 

Within a block the view discloses the topographical reasons 
for the location of the Panama-Pacific Exposition. A bowl- 
shaped anrphitheater cper^s ahead, its sides built up with dwell- 
ings and its floor containing the level land that forms the Expo- 
sition site. 

Up Van Ness avenue, a block north at the corner of Green 
street, you catch a glimpse, in passing, of the small dome and 
turrets of the Creek Catholic Cathedral, one of four in the 
United States. 

As the car runs west on Union street, the Exposition grounds 
lie to the northward at the edge of the water. 

The terminus of the line is inside the "Presidio," which was 
the Spanish name for the military post. This Presidio was 
founded by the Spaniards in 1 776, and covers an area of 
1,542 acres. During the recent Philippine insurrection 10,000 
American soldiers at a time camped here. Part of it projects 
into the Golden Gate in the form of a long cape, called Fort 
Point, with Fort Winfield Scott at the northern end. 

Near the end of the car line, on the north, are the buildings 
of the finest and most extensive military hospital in the United 
States, the Letterman General Hospital. It cost over half a 



By Trolley^ and Cable 107 

million dollars, and here the sick and wounded soldier boys 
returning from the Philippines are cared for. 

There are fine drives through the reservation, and a good 
walker will find much of interest. The Presidio is open to the 
public, but in certain parts marked by signs at the roadside, 
cameras are forbidden. 

Dress parades are held Thursdays and Fridays at 4 p. m. 

Guard mounting may be seen on the upper parade at 9 a. 
m. Sundays, 10 a, m. Saturdays and 10:30 the other days 
of the week. 

Infantry drills can be seen daily between 7 and 11 a. m., 
except Saturdays and Sundays. At that hour on Saturday 
inspection is held. 

At Fort W infield Scott, the fortifications can be visited, but 
only on a pass obtained from the Adjutant's office in the Ad- 
ministration building, and in company with a man detailed for 
the purpose. The best time is the morning, before 1 1 o'clock, 
as nobody can be detailed for this service in the afternoon. Ar- 
tillery drill occurs from 8 to 10 a, m., daily, except Thursdays, 
Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. At 4:30 p. m., Thursdays, 
there is a parade. None of the fortifications or batteries must 
be sketched or photographed. 

Returning, ta^e a transfer and change at Fillmore street to 
car bound south (up the hill). 

Here a cable will lift you for two blocks on the steepest 
grade mounted by any car line in San Francisco. Rearward 
are the Golden Gate and the Marin county hills. At the top 
of the grade you change again to a car going in the same 
direction. Get a transfer. 

Passing Calvary^ Presby^terian Church, the next transfer point 
is at Washmgton street, one block beyond. 

At Fillmore and Washington streets, change to the cable 
car mar}(ed *' Washington, Jacl^son, Powell and Marl^et,'' 
bound east on Washington street. 

A few blocks eastward is Lafayette Parl^, on the right. 



08 



Handbook for San Francisco 



Along this line and parallel streets such as Jackson, Pacific, 
Broadway and Vallejo, forming in part what is called ''Pacific 
Heights,'' and reaching as far as Powell street, on Nob Hill, 
are many of the finer residences of the city ; the town houses of 
local merchants, bankers and capitalists. 




SAN FRANCISCO APARTMENTS — PUEBLO TYPE. 

As the car swings around mto Powell street there is a 
beautiful vista of the bay, with Yerba Buena Island, and the 
cities on the opposite shore. 

You descend rapidly into the business district, passing the 
St. Francis Hotel, at Geary street, and running to the turntable 
at Market in front of the Flood building, which stands on the 
site of the famous old Baldwin Hotel. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 5. 

Union Iron Works, Potrero Industrial District, Islais Creek, 
Butcher Toivn, Bay Vierv, Six-Mile House and Visitacion 
Valley; returning by rvay of the Mission. 



By Trolley and Cable [09 

Take Kentucky street line No. 16, anyrvhere along Kearny 
street, or at Third and Market; ask for transfer, and ride to 
terminus at Thirty-second avenue south. Change here to **Fisi- 
tacion Valley, Railroad Avenue and Mission' line. Return- 
ing, take ^'Cemeteries'' car. No. 14, or San Mateo car, east 
hound, the first of which Tvill take you down Mission street, 
and the second to Fifth and Market. 

The route takes you down Third street, past the Southern 
Pacific Depot at Townsend. Up Townsend to the left, at 
Second, you can see the handsome concrete Pumping Station 
No. 1 , of the city's auxihary fire protection system. This sta- 
tion is equipped with four great turbine pumps that can drive 
10,000 gallons of water a minute, drawn from the bay, all 
over San Francisco, under a pressure of 300 pounds to the 
inch. A reservoir under the building holds a million gallons 
of fresh water to supply the eight boilers, and nearby is storage 
for 2,000 barrels of fuel oil. 

The car crosses the Channel at Fourth street, and runs 
down to and along Kentucky street. On the left lies Central 
Basin, with the gaunt skeleton frames of the Union Iron 
Works. The frames carry traveling cranes, by which are han- 
dled the materials for the construction of the largest types of 
ship. A launching from these ways is an interesting and 
thrilling spectacle. 

At this plant were built the battleship "Oregon," whose 
dramatic run around South America during the Spanish war 
awakened the anxieties of the nation and caused the irresistible 
public demand for the construction of the Panama Canal; and 
the cruiser "Olympia," Admiral Dewey's flagship at the battle 
of Manila Bay. Other war vessels built here have been the 
battleships "Wisconsin" and "Ohio," the armored cruisers 
"California" and "South Dakota," the protected cruisers 
"Charleston," "San Francisco," "Milwaukee" and "Taco- 
ma," the monitors "Monterey" and "Wyoming," a long list 
of gunboats, torpedo boats and destroyers, and several sub- 
marines. The imperial Japanese cruiser "Chitose" was also 



1 1 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco 

constructed by the Union Iron Works. This plant and the 
great drydocks at Hunter's Point have recently been acquired 
by the Bethlehem Steel Company. 

Three blocks beyond the Union Iron Works, at Potrero 
Point, is the Western Sugar Refinery, one of the largest indus- 
trial plants about the bay. 

The car next crosses Islais Creef^, destmed to be a fine inland 
harbor. 

On the right are extensive truck gardens, farmed by thrifty 
Italians, and irrigated by scores of windmills that make a Hol- 
land scene. This tract is already being marketed for factory 
sites, being close to rail and water. 

At Thirty-second street, change for the Six-Mile House. 

The road now winds down into Visitacion Valley, a prom- 
ising new industrial district, crosses over the line into San 
Mateo county, crosses back again into San Francisco, and 
makes a cross-country run to Mission street. 

At Mission street, take north hound car. 

This car will bring you into the city by the route described 
in Trolley Trip No. 3, along Mission street, whence you can 
transfer to Market at any convenient crossing. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 6. 

San Mateo by Way of ''The Mission,'' Daly City, the 
Cemeteries, Tanforan, Burlingame and Hillshoro. Returning 
by Way of San Jose avenue and Guerrero street. 

Take San Mateo car at Fifth and Market streets. The 
fare to San Mateo is trventy-five cents. Returning, pay twenty 
cents to Daly City and there change to Ocean View line 
No. 26, marked ''Ferries and Daly City (or Ocean View) 
via Mission, Guerrero Street and San Jose Avenue.'' 

This trip leads through "the Mission," down to the county 
line at what is called Daly City, thence around the San Bruno 
hills and along the east side of the Sierra Morena ridge. 

The cemeteries are on this line — IVoodlawn, Cypress Lawn, 
Holy Cross, and others, interments being prohibited in San 



B^ Trolley and Cable 1 1 1 

Francisco. They are very beautiful, with their pools and 
fountains near the car line, and show what cultivation can do 
in this rare climate. 

A short distance out from San Francisco the car passes 
Tanforan, a once popular race track. A few mijes below 
Tanforan on this road is the ranch of the late D. O. Mills, a 
superb estate stretching back toward the hills. 

Probably this is the wealthiest neighborhood in the West, 
although it is little on display from the car. 

San Mateo itself is one of the prettiest residence towns in 
the whole of California, calling itself, not inaptly, the "Floral 
City." Gardens abound. Here is a good hostelry, the Hotel 
Peninsula, with broad and inviting grounds, a few blocks from 
the end of the car line — a popular resort for San Franciscans. 
One can get a satisfactory table d'hote luncheon or dinner at 
a moderate price at the little French hotel next to the Public 
Library on Second street. There are livery stables and gar- 
ages, and if one has the time and would see the country to the 
best advantage he can take a number of drives from San Mateo 
into entrancing scenes of mountain and redwood forest, by 
romantic roads, through vales of the most delicate loveliness to 
lakes more beautiful than Killarney. Here are some of the 
drives and auto routes laid out by the San Mateo Board of 
Trade : 

North LaJ^e Drive, via Crystal Springs New Dam (second 
largest in the world), San Andreas and Millbrae; circuit 20 
miles. 

Crystal Springs Lake to Halfmoon Bay (Spanishtown), 
through the famous San Gabilan Pass and Moss Beach on the 
Pacific Ocean ; 1 5 miles. 

Las Pulgas Drive, via the Lakes, via Canyada Valley, via 
West Union Vineyards and Redwood City. 

Stanford University, via Middlefield Road, through beau- 
tiful Fair Oaks, returning through the redwoods via Woodside. 

Burlingame Coif Links, Polo Fields, Country Club, resi- 
dence district and San Mateo beach; circuit six miles. 



1 1 2 Handbook for San Francisco 

Summit Drive (altitude 2,000 feet), Kings Mountain, via 
Woodside and Redwood City. 

Pescadero, Pebble Beach, via Purisima and San Gregorio, 
returning through the redwoods via La Honda. 

The San Andreas and Crystal Springs reservoirs are the 
main source of San Francisco's water supply. 

Cars start back from San Mateo to San Francisco every 
twenty minutes, or one can take the Southern Pacific and come 
up by way of the Bay Shore cut-off and the tunnels, running 
along the edge of the bay. The return by trolley, along the 
hills, is very pleasant. Approaching town, one sees, to the 
right, the San Bruno hills, or mountains, rising 1 ,300 feet. 
The ridge runs in an easterly and westerly direction, and be- 
yond the eastern extremity rise three of those ghostly, skeleton 
towers of the wireless telegraph system, belongmg to the same 
company that operates the pair on the ocean beach near Golden 
Gate Park. One of these towers is 608 feet high, the tallest 
timber structure in the world, and the tallest wireless telegraph 
tower in America. The station communicates with the Ha- 
waiian Islands. 

To vary the scene and traverse a different part of "the 
Mission" on the return trip, 

Get off at Daly Cit]) and take car on line No. 26, running 
by n>ay of San Jose avenue. Diamond, Chenery and Thirtieth 
streets, Guerrero and Mission. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 7. 

Mission street, the Mint, Post Office, National Guard Ar- 
mory, Mission residence and business district, great viaduct, 
Sutro Forest, Ocean avenue. Lake Merced, Sloat Boulevard, 
Great Highway and the Ocean Beach; returning through Park- 
side and the Sunset district, along south side of Golden Gate 
Park by Switch-Back Railway on the slope of Twin Peaks, 
down through ''The Mission' and the industrial district, to 
Third street and up to Market. 



Bp Trolley and Cable 1 1 3 



Take Ingleside line No. 12, on Mission street, going west- 
ward. Returning, transfer at Twenty^-fifth avenue to Parkside 
car going northward; transfer again at Twentieth avenue and 
Lincoln way to Line 20, ''Ellis and Ocean' car going east; at 
Waller and Stanyan, transfer to ''Third and Harrison and 
Park'' car, going east; at Third street transfer to any Third 
street car hound north, to Third and Market streets. Ask for 
transfer when you board the cars. 

Mission street runs parallel with Market, one block south. 
On the right, as the car passes Fifth street, one sees the United 
States Branch Mint. (See index). 

Two blocks beyond, at Seventh street, is the United States 
Court House and Post Office building, which see. 

At the corner of Fourteenth street, on the right, is the San 
Francisco Armory of the National Guard of California, an 
imposing structure covering a space 240x280 feet, with offices, 
locker rooms, dressing rooms, mess rooms and kitchens, a swim- 
ming tank, a gymnasium, a rifle range, large disappearing guns, 
the proper ammunition vault, a drill court 1 68x240 feet, with 
a gun shed adjoining; and a social hall, library and reading 
room. It cost $300,000. 

Just beyond, the car runs into the populous and popular 
^'Mission District,'' with thronging business streets, like another 
city. 

The route skirts Balhoa Park, on the right, the old coursing 
park, once the scene of a very popular sport; and the lower 
edge of the Sutro forest. Through the trees beyond on the 
other side of the car, one catches indigo glimpses of Lake 
Merced. 

The terminus of the car line is at the southern end of the 
Great Highway, at its junction with Sloat Boulevard. The 
beach is just beyond, and here one looks out on the vast 
Pacific across a sweep of tumbling foam. 
Returning, ask for transfer. 

Change at Thirty-fifth avenue to Parkside line, hound 
north. 



1 1 4 Handbook for San Francisco 

This route will thread the dunes of Par^side and take you 
up through the Sunset District. 

Changing again at Twentieth avenue and Lincoln D^ap, you 
are taken along the south side of Golden Gate Park, passing 
within sight of the Affiliated Colleges, and around the south- 
east corner of the Park to the Haight street entrance. 

Change here to the ''Third and Harrison and Park'' ^'"^. 
going east. 

As the car turns into Ashbury street and begins to climb 
the hill it affords a fine view of Lone Mountain and the north- 
ern part of the city, with the Marin county hills beyond. 

The car descends the hill, traverses "the Mission" on 
Eighteenth street at right angles to the route going out, run- 
ning between the Mission High School and Mission Park, 
between Church and Dolores streets, and within a block of 
the Mission Dolores, and winds into Harrison street at Four- 
teenth. 

At Third street, Harrison runs into the steep grade of Rin- 
con Hill. 

Change here to anij car going north, which will take pou 
up Third to Market street at Newspaper Square. 

TROLLEY TRIP NO. 8. 

Buena Vista Park, <^^d View over Cit\^, Bay and Ocean. 

Take Haight street line No. 7, on Market street, and get 
off at Buena Vista Park entrance opposite the end of Lyon 
street. Return by same way. 

Buena Vista Park is a wooded hill located almost in the 
center of the city and affording a fine view. It is east of 
Golden Gate Park, south of the eastern end of the Panhandle, 
and on a line with Fourteenth street, projected. The ascent 
begins at the stone steps on Haight street. 

There are 36 acres in the park, which rises to a height of 
over 500 feet. The outlook is almost as good as that from the 
top of Lone Mountain, and the paths give a better footing, 
making an easier climb. 



By Trolley and Cable 



115 



TROLLEY TRIP NO. 9. 

By the sightseeing car of the United Railroads. Fare, 75 
cents, Tvhich includes entrance fee to Sutro Museum and Baths. 

Lower Market street. Post street and the retail district. 
Union Square, Dewey Monument, Presidio, Golden Gate, 
Land's End, Sutro Baths and Museum, Cliff House and Seal 




Copyright, R. J. Waters & Co. 
LOOKING DOWN MARKET STREET FROM POWELL. 

Rocks, Lincoln Park, L^ort Miley, Golden Gate Park, Park 
Panhandle, Ashbury Heights, Affiliated Colleges, Mission 
Dolores, through the Mission District and back io Market 
street. 

Car leaves its station inside Ferry Loop at 10 a. m. and 2 
p. m., and makes a stop at Montgomery, Post and Market 
streets at 10:05 a. m. and 2:05 p. m. 

This trip covers about 38 miles in a little over three hours, 
and is a good one for those whose time is short and who wish 



1 1 6 Handbook for San Francisco 

to avoid the annoyance of having to transfer. Many important 
and beautiful parts of the city are described by the conductor, 
and as the route laid out is very comprehensive, a good idea 
of San Francisco may be obtained in this vv^ay with little effort. 



CHURCHES AND DIVINE SERVICE. 

The churches of San Francisco have played a vital part 
in its evolution. The Mission of San Francisco d'Assisi, 
which came to be called the Mission Dolores from the little 
creek near which it was built, was the initial ecclesiastical 
establishment, and part of the foundation of the city. 

In 1 848 the Rev. T. Dwight Hunt arrived in San Fran- 
cisco, and before a week was out was appointed chaplain to 
the little community. The first permanent Protestant house of 
worship in the city was built by his flock, which, as the First 
Congregational church, throve under the ministry of such stal- 
wart good citizens as Dr. Stone and Dr. Barrows. 

The first public school in San Francisco was opened in the 
First Baptist church on December 26th, 1 849, by John C. 
Pelton, with three pupils. 

Calvary Presbyterian Church, which formerly stood on the 
present site of the St. Francis hotel, was a vital factor in the 
community, under the ministration of Dr. William A. Scott. 

Such men as Dr. Horatio Stebbins, Thomas Starr King 
and Elkan Cohn were not only influential as clergymen, but 
as leaders in culture and citizenship. 

"Old St. Mary's" as it is affectionately called, is a land- 
mark, and was the scene of the labors of Archbishop Alemany, 
whose portrait ornaments the vestibule opposite that of Padre 
Junipero Serra. 

The Second New Jerusalem Church (Swedenborgian) at 
Lyon and Washington streets, is an architectural gem. So are 
such edifices as the Evangelical Lutheran, Emanu El, the 



Churches and Divine Service 1 1 7 

present Calvary Presbyterian, the First Presbyterian, St. 
Luke's Holy Catholic, the First Church of Christ, Scientist, and 
many more, and so will be the First Congregational, and the 
new Grace Cathedral, which is to arise on the California street 
site donated by the Crocker family. 

Almost all leading religious denominations are represented 
and have places of worship in San Francisco. For the conven- 
ience of visitors wishing to attend divine service we give the 
names and locality of a number of the more noted churches that 
are readily accessible from the downtown section, and several 
car lines by which they may be reached. 

BAPTIST. 

First Baptist Junction of Market, Octavia and Waller 
streets. 

Tal^e Haight street cars. Line No. 7, to Octavia street; 
Market street cars. Line No. 8, to Waller street; Valencia 
street cars. Line No. 9, to Valencia street; or Valencia, Cough 
and Fillmore street cars. Line No. 23, to Valencia. 

Preaching service, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 

Hamilton Square Baptist. Post street, between Fillmore and 
Steiner. 

Take Sutter street car. Line No. I , or Sutter and Clement, 
Line No. 2; get off at Steiner street and walk a block south; 
or Gear}) Street Municipal line, to Steiner street, and walk ^ 
block north; or Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, or Fill- 
more and Mission, Line No. 23, get off at Post and Walk ^ 
block west. 

Preaching service, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 

CHRISTIAN. 

First Christian. Duboce avenue and Noe street. 

Haight street car. Line No. 7, to Pierce street and walk 
two blocks south and through the small park; or Market street 
car. Line No. 8, to Noe street and walk three blocks north 



118 Handbool( for San Francisco 

to Duboce; or Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, to Duboce, 
and Tvalk two blocks Tvest. 

Preaching services, II a. m. and 7:45 p. m, Sundays. 

West Side Christian. Bush street, between Scott and Divis- 
adero. 

Sutter and California car. Line No. I , or Sutter and Clem- 
ent, Line No. 2, get off at Scott and walk o. block north to 
Bush; or Geary street line, get off at Scott and Walk three 
blocks north to Bush; or California street cable to Scott and 
Walk two blocks south to Bush; Turk and Eddy, Line No. 4, 
or Mission and Richmond, Line No. 24, to Bush and Divisa- 
dero, and walk east. 

Preaching services, 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m., Sundays. 

CHRISTIAN SCIENCE. 

First Church of Christ, Scientist, CaHfornia and Franklin 
streets. 

California street cable; or Ninth and Polk car. Line No. 19. 
to California street and walk i'^o blocks west. 

Sunday services, 11 a. m. and 8 p. m. 

CONGREGATIONAL. 

First Congregational. Post and Mason streets. 

Sutter street car. Lines I, 2 or 3, to Mason and walk a 
block south, or Geary street line and walk ^ block north; or 
Montgomery and Tenth street line, no number. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 8 p. m. 

Mission Congregational. Nineteenth and Dolores streets, 
opposite Mission Park. 

Valencia street car. Line No. 9, to Nineteenth street, and 
Walk two blocks west; or Fillmore and Sixteenth car. Line No. 
22, to Dolores street and walk three blocks south; or Eigh- 
teenth street line, no number, to Dolores and walk one block 
south. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 



Churches and Divine Service 1 19 

PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL. 

Grace Cathedral. Taylor and Sacramento streets. 

Sacramento cable to Taylor, California street cable to Tay- 
lor and rvalf^ a block north, or Powell street cable to Sacra- 
mento and Walk i^o blocks west. 

When the crypt, on CaHfornia street, is made ready, services 
will be held there. (See index). 

Sunday services. Holy Communion, 8 a. m. ; morning service 
and sermon, 11 a. m. ; choral vespers, with address, 5 p. m. 
During the week daily services are held under the direction of 
the Church Divinity School, at 8:30 a. m. and 5:30 p. m. 
Holy Communion on Wednesdays and holy days at 10 a. m. 

Trinity Church. Bush and Gough streets. 

Sutter street cars. Lines J, 2 or 3, to Cough street and 
Walk a block north; or California street cable to Cough street 
and Walk ^^o blocks south. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 8 p. m. 

5/. Luke's Holy Catholic. Van Ness avenue and Clay 
street. 

Take Jackson street cable, no number, starting from Powell 
and Market, to Van Ness, and walk two blocks south; or 
California street cable to Van Ness and walk i^o blocks 
north; or any west-bound trolley such as the Hayes street Line 
No. 6, Turk and Eddy No. 4, McAllister No. 5, or any 
Market street line, transfer to Ninth and Polk street. Line No. 
19, north bound, get off at Clay street and walk ^ block Tvest. 

Services, Sundays 8 a. m., 9:45 a. m., 1 1 a. m., 8 p. m. 
Week day services announced. 

TRINITY CATHEDRAL OF THE HOLY GREEK RUSSIAN. 

Eastern Orthodox Catholic Church. Van Ness avenue and 
Green street. 

Presidio and Ferries car (Union street line) to Van Ness 
avenue and Walk a block north; or Ninth and Polk street car. 
Line No. 19, to Green street, and walk a block west. 



1 20 Handbook for San Francisco 

Services, Saturdays at 7 p. m. ; Sundays and holy days, 1 
a. m. and 7 p. m. 

HEBREW. 
Temple Emanu-EL 4 1 4 Sutter street, between Stockton 
and Powell. 

Porvell street cable to Sutter street; or Sutter car. Lines /, 

2 or 3. 

Services, Fridays at 5 p. m. ; Saturdays at 10 a. m. 

Temple Israel. Congregation Sherith Israel. California 
and Webster streets. 

California street cable car; or Sacramento street cable to 
Webster and Sacramento, if Tvest bound, and walk a block 
south, or to Webster and Cla^ if east bound, and walk two 
blocks south; or take Sutter and Jackson car. Line No. 3, or 
Fillmore and Sixteenth car. Line No. 22, or Fillmore and 
Mission car. Line No. 23, to corner of California and Fillmore 
streets and walk ^ block east. 

Services, Saturdays at 10 a. m. 

Gear"^ Street Temple, Congregation Beth Israel. Geary, 
near Fillmore. 

Cear"^ street municipal car line, or O'Farrell and H^de street 
line to Fillmore and walk ^ block north; or Fillmore and Six- 
teenth car. Line No. 22, or Fillmore and Mission car. Line 
No. 23, to Cear^ street. 

Services, Friday at 5:30 p. m., and Saturday at 9 a. m. 
In winter the Friday services are at 5 p. m. 

LUTHERAN. 

First English Lutheran. Geary street, between Gough and 
Octavia. 

Geary street cars; or Ellis and Ocean, Line No. 20, to 
Gough street, and walk a block north if you were on a car 
bound westward, or two blocks north if on a car of this line 
bound eastward. 

Services, preaching every Sunday at 1 I a. m. and 8 p. m. 



Churches and Divine Service 121 



Evangelical Lutheran St. Pauls Church. Eddy and Gough 
street. 

Turk and Eddy car. Line No. 4; if east hound get off at 
Cough street and Tvalk a block north. 

Services, Sundays at 10:45 a. m. and 8 p. m. The 
morning service is always in German. The evening service on 
the first and third Sundays in the month is in English, second 
and fourth Sundays in German. 

METHODIST EPISCOPAL. ; 

First Methodist Episcopal. Clay and Larkin streets. 

Sacramento street car to Larkin, and if traveling westward, 
walk a block north; if traveling eastward the car goes to the 
church; or take California street car to Larkin and walk ^^o 
blocks north; or Jackson street car to Larkin, and if traveling 
westward walk two blocks south, if eastward, one block south; 
or Ninth and Polk car. Line No. 19, to Clay, and walk a 
block east; or O'Farrell, Jones and Hyde street car to Clay 
and Walk a block west. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 

Central Methodist Episcopal. OTarrell and Leavenworth 
streets. 

Montgomery and Tenth street car to O'Farrell; or O'Far- 
rell street cable to Jones and walk a block west; or Ellis and 
Ocean car. Line No. 20; or Hayes and Ellis, No. 21, to 
Leavenworth, and walk a block north; or Geary street Munici- 
pal Railroad to Leavenworth and walk a block south; or Ninth 
and Polk street car. Line No. 19, to O'Farrell and walk two 
blocks east. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 

California Street Methodist Episcopal. California and 
Broderick streets. 

California street car to Broderick; or Turk and Eddy car. 
Line No. 4, to California, and Walk a block west; or Mission 
and Richmond car. Line No. 24, to California, and walk a 
block West. 



122 HandbooJf for San Francisco 

Services, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m., in summer, and 
7:30 in winter. 

Grace Methodist Episcopal. Twenty-first and Capp streets. 

Valencia street car. Line No. 9, on Market street, to Trven- 
tV-first street, and walk a block and a half east; or Howard 
street car, no number, to Trvent^-first street, and walk half a 
block T^cst; or Mission street car. Line No. 18, to Twenty- 
first street, and walk half a block east; or Fillmore and Valen- 
cia street car. Line No. 23, to Twent])-first street, and walk 
a block and a half east. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. 

PRESBYTERIAN. 

Calvary Presbyterian. Jackson and Fillmore streets. 

Jackson street cable, no number, starting from Powell and 
Market, to Fillmore street; Sutter street car on Line No. 3, 
or any car west bound on the United Railroads transferring to 
Fillmore street, north bound; or Union street car, no number, 
and transfer to Fillmore, south bound. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 

The former home of this church was on the site of the St. 
Francis hotel. 

First Presbyterian. Van Ness avenue and Sacramento 
street. 

Sacramento street cable, no number, to the door, if west 
bound; if east bound, get off at Van Ness avenue and Walk 
a block south; or take Jackson street cable, no number, start- 
ing from Powell and Market, to Van Ness avenue and walk 
three blocks south; or California street line to Van Ness and 
Walk o. block north; or any west bound trolley such as the 
Hayes street Line No. 6, Turk and Eddy No. 4, or McAllis- 
ter No. 5, or any other Market street line, transfer to Ninth 
and Polk street. Line No. 19, north bound, get off at Sacra- 
mento street and walk a block "west. 

Services, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. 



Churches and Divine Service 123 



St. Johns Presbyterian. Arguello boulevard (First ave- 
nue) and Lake street. 

Turk ^"^ Eddy car. Line No. 4 ; or Sutter and California, 
Line No. I, to Arguello boulevard (First avenue) and walk 
a block north; or Mission and Richmond cross town car. Line 
No. 24, which passes the door. 

Services, 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Sundays. 

Trinity Presbyterian. Twenty-third and Capp streets. 

Valencia street car. Line No. 9, to Twenty-third street and 
Walk two and a half blocks east; or Mission street car. Line 
No. 18, to Twenty-third street and walk half a block east; or 
Howard street car, no number, to Twenty-third street, and half 
a block west. 

Services, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. 

UNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF NORTH AMERICA. 

First United Presbyterian Church. Golden Gate avenue 
between Steiner and Pierce streets. 

McAllister street car. Line No. 5, to Steiner and walk a 
block north to Golden Gate avenue; or Turk and Eddy No. 
4 to Steiner and walk two blocks south; or Fillmore and Six- 
teenth, No. 22, to Golden Gate avenue and walk a block and 
a half west. 

Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. 

ROMAN CATHOLIC. 

5^ Marys Cathedral. Van Ness avenue and O'Farrell 
street. 

Ellis street car. Line No. 20 or 21, to Van Ness and 
O'Farrell; or Ninth and Polk street car. Line No. 19, (can 
be reached by transfer from cars of the United Railroads run- 
ning east and west) to O'Farrell and Larkin streets and walk 
two blocks west. The Geary Street Municipal Railroad crosses 
Van Ness avenue a block north of the Cathedral. 

Sunday services: Masses, 6, 7, 8 and 9:30 a. m., with 
High Mass and sermon at 11. Vespers, with sermon and 



1 24 Handbook for San Francisco 

benediction, at 8 p. m. Musical services are confined to High 
Mass and Vespers. 

St. Mar^^s. Grant avenue and California street. 

California street cable to Grant avenue; or Kearny and 
Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentuck"^, Line No. 
16, to California street and Tvalk a block west. 

Sunday services: Masses at 6:30, 8, 9, 10, 10:45 a. 
m. ; 12:15 and 8 p. m. High mass is at 10:45 a. m. On 
weekdays there are masses at 6:30, 7 and 8 a. m. This is 
the oldest church in the city except the Mission Dolores. 

5/. Francis of Assisium. Columbus avenue and Vallejo 
street. 

Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, to Broadwa'^ and 
Columbus avenue, and Walk northwest a block; or Union street 
car (Presidio &• Ferries, no number), to the door. 

Services, (now held in the temporary wooden church ad- 
joining on the west) Sundays and holidays of obligation. 
Mass at 6, 7:30 and 9 a. m. ; High Mass and sermon at 
10:30; Vespers, sermon and Benediction of the Blessed Sac- 
rament, 7:30 p. m. Daily Mass at 6:30 and 7:30 a. m. ; 
evenings devotion at 7:30. 

This was the original cathedral. 

St. Patrick's, 744 Mission street, between Third and Fourth. 

Any car on Mission street, or any Mission street car by trans- 
fer; or Geary street municipal line, east bound, transfer to 
Third and get off at Mission; or Kearny and Beach car. Line 
No. 15, or Third and Kentucky car. Line 16, and get off 
at Mission; or Ellis and Ocean No. 20, to Fourth and Mission 
and Walk half a block cast. 

Services: Sundays, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 a. m., 
and 12m.; Holy days, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 a. m., and 12m.; week- 
days, 6 and 7 a, m. Evening devotions on Sundays, Holy 
days of obligation and First Fridays, 7:45 p. m. 

St. Patrick's also provides a night worker's mass at 2 a. m., 
Sundays, for newspaper men and other night workers. 



Churches and Divine Service 125 

St Ignatius. Hayes and Shrader streets, one block from 
Golden Gate Park. 

Hayes and Ellis car. Line No. 21 ; or McAllister No. 5 to 
Shrader and rvalk tivo hlocf^s south. 

Services: Sunday Masses, 5:00, 5:45, 6:30, 7:30, 8:30, 
9:30, 10:30 a. m. ; Sunday evening, 715, Beads; 730, Ves- 
pers; 8:00, sermon or lecture; 8:30, Benediction. Daily 
Masses, 5:00, 5:45, 6:30, 7:15 and 8:00 a. m. 

St. Boniface. (German.) Golden Gate avenue, between 
Jones and Leavenworth. 

Take any Marl^et street car to Jones and walJ^ a block 
north; or TurJ( and Eddy No. 4 to Jones, and if rvest bound, 
tvalk trvo blocks south, if east bound one blocl^. 

Sunday Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 a. m. ; evening services 
at 7:30. Week day Masses at 6, 7 and 8:15. 

Mission Dolores Church. Sixteenth and Dolores streets. 

Take Market street car. Line No. 8, transfer at Church to 
Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, south bound, and get off 
at Sixteenth street; or take Ocean View (Guerrero) Line No. 
10 or 26 (running on Mission street, down town) to Six- 
teenth street and walk ^ block west. 

Masses on Sunday at 6, 7:30, 9, 10 and 11 a. m. 
Masses are said in the new structure behind the old Mission, 
and a very beautiful new church is rising on the corner be- 
side it. 

Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. Broadway, between Powell 
and Mason. 

'*Bay and Taylor, Powell and Market,'' cable to Broadway 
and Mason streets and walk half a block ^^sf; or Kearny and 
Beach Line, No. 15, to Powell and Broadway and walk half 
a block Tvest. 

Sunday services at 6:30, 7:30 and 10:30. Evening Ves- 
pers at 7:30. Every day. Mass at 7 a. m. 



1 26 Handhoof^ for San Francisco 

St. Dominic s. Pierce and Bush streets. 

Sutter and California car. Line No. /, or Sutter and Cle- 
ment. No. 2, to Pierce street and Tvalk a block north; or Fill- 
more and Sixteenth, No. 22, or Fillmore and Valencia No. 23, 
to Bush street and Tvall^ trvo blocJ^s tvest; or California street 
cable to Pierce and ivalk two blocks south; or Turl( and 
Edd^ No. 4, or Mission and Richmond, No. 24, to Divisadero 
and Bush streets, and walk two blocks east. 

Services; Sundays and holy days, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 
and 11 a. m. ; week days at 6, 7 and 8 a. m. Evening services, 
every evening in the year at 7:45 p. m. 

This church has the largest and finest organ in the west. 

55. Peter and Pauls (Salesian Fathers). Grant avenue 
and Filbert street. 

Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, to Filbert street and 
Walk ^^0 blocks east; or Union street line, (Presidio and Fer- 
ries, no number) to Columbus avenue and Union street, and 
Walk a block ^"^ ^ half east and a block north. 

Services: Sundays and holy days, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 
10:30 a. m. ; Vespers and Benediction at 7:30 p. m. Wednes- 
day services, Masses from 6 to 8 a. m. Special devotions on 
First Fridays. 

SWEDENBORGIAN. 

Second New Jerusalem Church. Lyon and Washington 
streets. 

Sutter and Jackson, Line No. 3, to Lyon street, and 
walk half a block south; or Turk and Eddy, No. 4, to Lyon 
and Sacramento street and walk two blocks north; or Califor- 
nia street cable to Lyon street and walk three blocks north. 

Services at 1 1 :30 a. m., Sunday. This is one of the beauty 
spots of San Francisco. 

UNITARIAN. 
First Unitarian. Geary and Franklin streets. 
Geary Street Municipal Railroad to Franklin; or Ellis street 
car. Line No. 20 or 21 , to O'Farrell and Franklin and walk 



Theaters 127 

a block north; or Sutter street, Nos. /, 2 or 3, to Franklin and 
Walk two blocks south. 

Services at 1 1 a. m. Sundays. 

In front of this church is the tomb of Thomas Starr King, 
who was pastor during the Civil War, and whose eloquence 
in his nation's cause was said by Lincoln to have saved Cali- 
fornia to the Union. Tomb and church were alike removed 
to their present location from a site farther down on Geary 
street. 



THEATERS. 

Few modern cities have contributed more to the advance- 
ment of the stage than San Francisco, with its discriminating 
taste, its ready rewards for what is sound and good in the 
drama, and its cordial appreciation of its stage favorites. In 
early days the greatest actors were drawn to California. Edwin 
Booth was content to be a barn-stormer where he could get no 
better houses. Lawrence Barrett and John McCullough were 
the first managers of the old California Theater. David 
Belasco is a native of San Francisco and was stage manager of 
'The Baldwin." M. B. Leavitt conducted the Bush street 
theater for 1 5 years following 1 882. Al Hayman began 
his theatrical career in San Francisco. William A. Brady 
was born here and began his theatrical career in this city. 
Blanche Bates made her first appearance at Stockwell's 
Theater, in San Francisco. Edna Wallace Hopper was born 
here and educated at the Van Ness Seminary. David War- 
field, a native of San Francisco, worked as head usher in the 
Bush street theater, and made his first appearance at the 
old Wigwam. 

Vaudeville developed its best form in this city, and the San 
Francisco Orpheum is the mother theater of the famous *'Or- 
pheum Circuit," which supplies vaudeville entertainment 



1 28 Handbook for San Francisco 

in Chicago, New York and a hundred other cities throughout 
the United States; and which has affiHations all over England 
and Scotland. 

The Orpheum was first built on its present site in 1887, 
by Gustav Walter, who had been successfully conducting a 
music hall called *'The Fountain" in the Thurlow block, on 
Kearny street, and the Germania Gardens, in the Mission. 
Ethel Barry more and Sara Bernhardt have appeared on the 
Orpheum stage. 

The present house was dedicated on April 1 9, 1 909. 

Probably the theater that stands highest today in the affections 
of San Franciscans is the Tivoli, on Eddy street near Mason. 
It has furnished both opera bouffe and grand opera to two 
generations, under such circumstances of homelike simplicity and 
comfort that it has become an intimate part of the life of 
the city, and the reopening of the theater in its new home on 
March 12, 1913, with Andreas Dippel's Chicago Opera Com- 
pany, and Tetrazzini singing Gilda in Rigoletto, was one of 
those heart-warming events that have done so much to make 
the new city one with the old. 

The Tivoli had its origin in the old Vienna Gardens, on 
Sutter street near Stockton, next to the synagogue, the Temple 
Emanu El, in the centennial year of 1876. The house had 
been built in Boston and shipped around the Horn in sections 
for Judge Burritt, and afterward became the home of Dr. A. 
J. Bowie. Here F. W. Kreling and his sons, Joe, William, 
John and Martin, conducted a place of entertainment, where 
people could sip beer and smoke and enjoy "variety," long 
before the days of vaudeville. 

Prospering, the Krelings wanted a larger house than the 
one that had come in a ship, and built it on the Eddy street 
lot, in 1877. How the old Tivoli looked from without, you 
can see by the bronze relief on the west wall of the vestibule 
of the present one. 

In 1 895 regular grand opera seasons were instituted. In 
1903 the Tivoli moved across the corner to the old cyclo- 



Theaters 129 

rama building rebuilt as an opera house. Here Tetrazzini 
sang Gilda to roof-raising applause, which sent her forth with 
a San Francisco triumph to her credit — and San Francisco's 
judgment of her was confirmed by the world. After the fire 
she came back to sing, as a mark of gratitude, in .the streets 
of the city that had first acclaimed her, and on the completion 
of the new Tivoli she again appeared in the role in which a 
discriminating San Francisco audience had recognized the rise 
of a new star. 

There are no old theaters of any consequence in San Fran- 
cisco. The new structures have all been built under the most 
exacting safety regulations, and are better equipped and more 
modern in every respect, with stout steel frames, fire-proofed 
walls and plenty of exits. In decoration, the best of them are 
unsurpassed. 

The following list will give the principal down town play- 
houses and their locations: 

Alcazar. O'Farrell street, between Powell and Mason. 
Performances every evening; matinees Thursdays, Saturdays 
and Sundays. Standard plays are presented by a good stock 
company. Prices, 25 cents to $1 ; box and loge seats, $1.50. 

Columbia. Geary and Mason street. Performances every 
evening, with matinee Wednesdays and Saturdays. Many of 
the country's leading musical and dramatic companies are 
booked at this house. Prices vary with the character of the 
entertainment, but commonly run from 25 cents to $2. 

The Cort. Ellis street near Stockton. Performances 
every night, matinees Wednesdays and Saturdays at 2:30. 
High class musical and dramatic productions. Prices, 50 cents 
to $2. 

Empress. Market street, between Fifth and Sixth. Vaude- 
ville. Three performances daily; matinee at 2:30; evening, 
7:15 and 9:15. There are four performances on Sunday. 
Prices 1 0, 20 and 30 cents. 



1 30 Handbook for San Francisco 

Orpheum. O'Farrell street, between Stockton and Ppwell. 
Vaudeville. Performances every afternoon and evening. Prices, 
1 to 75 cents, box seats, $ I . 

Pantages. Market street, opposite Mason. Vaudeville. 
Three performances daily; matinees at 2:30; evening, at 7:15 
and 9:15. Four performances on Sunday. Prices, 10, 20 
and 30 cents. 

Savo^. McAllister street near Market. A home of musical 
comedy. Performances every evening; matinees Saturdays 
and Sundays. Prices, 25 cents to $1. 

Tivoli Opera House. Eddy street, between Powell and 
Mason. The home of light and grand opera, the former at 
popular prices. During the light opera season the prices are 
25, 50 and 75 cents, with box seats at $1. 

G. M. Anderson, of moving picture fame, is building, oppo- 
site the Orpheum, a theater for high-class musical comedy such 
as the sort presented by the Winter Garden, in New York. 
The best of talent will be organized into a local stock com- 
pany. It will be known as the Gaiety. The prices are to be 
moderate — from 25 cents to $1. 

PUBLIC AUDITORIUMS. 

There are four auditoriums in the residence district west of 
Van Ness avenue that are the scene of gatherings too large 
for the ordinary downtown halls. Here are their locations, 
and directions for reaching them on the cars, from the down- 
town district. 

Auditorium. At Page and Fillmore streets. 
Hay^es street car. Line No. 6, to Oak and Fillmore and 
"Walk a block south. 

Coliseum. Baker street, between Oak and Fell. 
Ha^es street car. Line No. 6, to Balder street. 

Dreamland Rink- Steiner street near Post. 

Sutter street car. Line No. 1 or 2, to Steiner street and Tvalk 



Sight-Seeing Auto Cars 131 

south; or Cear^ street Municipal Railway to Steiner and walk 
a block north. 

Pavilion Rinf^. 2 1 89 Sutter street, corner of Pierce. 
Sutter street car. Line No. I or 2. 



SIGHT-SEEING AUTO CARS. 

Sight-seeing automobiles leave Market street between Third 
and Fifth daily at 10 a. m., and 2 p. m. 

At 1 p. m., they make a trip to Chinatown. 

They can also be found at the Ferry and on Powell street 
near O'Farrell. 

The daylight trip, as at present conducted, can be recom- 
mended as a comfortable way to see some of the most inter- 
esting parts of the city, such as Golden Gate Park, the Cliff 
House vicinity. Pacific Heights, the Presidio and the Exposi- 
tion site at Harbor View. The price is $1 a passenger, and 
the time required is about two and a half hours. 



MONUMENTS AND LANDMARKS— THE BANK 

EXCHANGE . 

San Francisco is a city of romance and riches and hence, 
also of monuments. There are many fine ones that keep alive 
pride in the place and its stirring history. 

The Donahue monument at Bush, Battery and Market 
streets, by the sculptor Douglas Tilden, is about on the line of 
the original water front, the edge of the bight known as 
Verba Buena Cove, which swept around from Montgomery 
streets at Jackson, swung across Sansome street between Cali- 
fornia and Pine, crossed the pavement surrounding the mon- 
ument, just to the west of the pool, and ran thence below 
First street and eastward to Rincon Point, the tip of which lay 
a little east of the corner of Harrison and Spear streets. 



132 



Handbook for San Francisco 




THE DONAHUE MONUMENT, MARKET STREET. 



The monument will well repay a visit to it. Its bold imagery 
and fine feeling for the subject of human labor well directed are 
distinctively western in spirit. 

The cove was filled with the spoil from the grading do^vn 
of the sand hills of the city, and all east of the line we have 
described is made ground. That is why on the south side 



Monuments and Landmarl^s 1 33 

of Market the numbered streets do not begin until after the 
point opposite the monument is passed, going westward. 

At Clay and Montgomery, one of the recently erected land- 
mark bells that are supposed to indicate the route of El Camino 
Real, the Highway of the King, marks the old landing that 
was there "when the water came up to Montgomery street." 

The next monument up Market street is Lotias Fountain, 
presented to the city by Lotta Crabtree, a stage favorite of 
early days. On the shaft is a bronze tablet, put there to com- 
memorate one of those typically San Franciscan occasions, the 
Christmas eve of 1910, when Luisa Tetrazzini sang in the 
open air at this point to a crowd estimated at 1 00,000, out 
of affection for the city that had shown her the first great pub- 
lic appreciation. The fountain dates from 1875. The tablet, 
designed by Haig Patigan, the sculptor, was unveiled March 
24, 1912. 

This is the scene of an annually recurring open air music 
festival. Chambellan, Pasquali and other great artists sang 
at this point on Christmas eve 1911 and 1912, and Kubelik, 
the violinist, has played here. 

At the corner of Mason street is another good thing by 
Tilden, the so-called ''Native Sons Monument,'' dedicated 
to the Native Sons of the Golden West by former Mayor 
James D. Phelan. It commemorates the admission of Cali- 
fornia into the Union in 1850. 

More of Tilden's work stands at the foot of Van Ness 
avenue, about opposite the Masonic Temple building. This is 
the Soldier's Monument, erected by the citizens of San Fran- 
cisco to the California Volunteers in the Spanish war. 

At City Hall avenue and McAllister streets stands at pres- 
ent a bronze statue of Hall McAllister, "A Leader of the 
California Bar." It is by M. Earl Cummings. 

Marshall Square, opening from the north side of Market 
street opposite Eighth, to the site of the City Hall, is adorned 
by the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, executed by 
Frank Happersberger, a San Francisco sculptor. 



1 34 Handbook for San Francisco 

This monument is worth visiting for its fine portrayals, in 
reHef, of Western Hfe and illustrations of California history. 

On the Market street side of the Lick monument is a highly 
ornamented bronze cannon taken from the Spaniards at San- 
tiago de Cuba. 

One of the elevations beyond the end of Market street, 
known as Mount Oly^mpus, is surmounted by a colossal statue 
of Liberty, erected by the late Adoph Sutro. 

Golden Gate Park contains many fine statues. A monu- 
ment to William McKinley, representing "Peace,*' the work 
of Robert L Aitken, stands at the entrance to the Panhandle. 
Another to Francis Scott Key, author of the Star Spangled 
Banner, just to the southeast of the Music Concourse, was 
given by James Lick; it is the composition of the late W. W. 
Story, the famous American sculptor. The Ball Player by 
Douglas Tilden attracts much attention. Near it is a figure 
of Robert Burns, by M. Earl Cummings. 

Maj. Gen. Henry W. Halleck, who was acting secretary 
of California during the military occupation of early days and 
who became commander in chief of the United States Army 
from 1 862 to 1 864, is represented by a bronze bust by G. 
Conrades. There is also a bust of General Grant by R. 
Schmid. 

There is a life size bronze of Thomas Starr King, the San 
Francisco clergyman that represented the cause of the Union 
during the Civil War, not only in California but in England 
as well. It is by the famous sculptor D. C. French. 

Junipero Serra, with uplifted cross, father of the California 
Missions, is a commanding figure. This is by Douglas Tilden. 
Then there is the Goethe and Schiller monument, by Lauch- 
hammer, the Prayer Book Cross on the height, designed by 
Ernest Coxhead, and commemorating the first English religious 
service on the coast; the monument to Garfield, by Frank Hap- 
persberger; and the Wine Press, by Thomas Shields Clark, 
in front of the Museum; one of the most enjoyable bits of 
humor in the Park. 



Monuments and Landmarks 1 35 

The Stevenson monument in Portsmouth Square, surmounted 
by the golden galleon and bearing on its face the quotation 
from his Christmas sermon, is the design, in general, of Bruce 
Porter, a San Francisco artist. The galleon was modeled by 
George Piper. This was the first monument ever erected to 
the author, whose memory San Franciscans have taken to 
their hearts since his sojourn here as of one of their native sons. 
The inscription reads: 

To Remember Robert Louis Stevenson. 

To be honest, to be kind, to earn a little, to spend a little 
less — to make upon the whole a family happier for his pres- 
ence — to renounce when that shall be necessary and not be 
embittered — to ^eep a few friends, but these without capitu- 
lation — above all, on the same grim condition, to k^ep friends 
with himself, here is a task for all that a man has of fortitude 
and delicacy. 

Portsmouth Square (see index) was one of Stevenson's 
loafing places. Here he found interesting bits of the city's 
life and human character, while enduring his poverty with just 
that fortitude of which the stone now speaks and "keeping 
friends with himself on the same grim condition" that he laid 
down the others. 

In Washington Square, between Union and Filbert, Stock- 
ton and Powell streets, is one of the series of Cogswell monu- 
ments, with a statue of Benjamin Franklin. 

A fine thing by M. Earl Cummings is the bronze figure 
of the old man drinking from his hand at the pool in the 
little triangle of green cut off from this park by the slant of 
Columbus avenue. 

In Union Square the Dewey monument, San Francisco's 
Column of Victory, by Robert I. Aitken, celebrates the battle 
of Manila Bay. 

In the downtown section of the city so few old landmarks 
survived the fire that those which did escape are the dearer 



1 36 HandbooJ( for San Francisco 

for their rarity. There were some residences on Russian Hill, 
some old houses in the Fort Mason military reservation, in one 
of which Senator Broderick died of the wound he received 
in a duel with Judge Terry in 1 859 ; the Appraisers' building 
on Sansome street between Washington and Jackson; the old 
Parr oil building at the northwest corner of Montgomery and 
California streets, built in 1852, of granite shaped aid squared 
in China and put up in San Francisco by Chinese workmen; 
the Temple Emanu El, on Sutter street, whose towers once bore 
the turnip-shaped Oriental domes that became a sort of insignia 
of San Francisco in every typical picture of the city ; St. Fran- 
cis' church at Columbus avenue and Vallejo street, built in 
1859, and "Old St. Mary's" at California street and Grant 
avenue, built in 1854, "0/J St. Marys,'' as most San Francis- 
cans affectionately call it, is the oldest church edifice in the city, 
except the Mission Dolores. It succeeded St. Francis' church 
as the cathedral, and was the scene of the labors of Arch- 
bishop Alemany, whose portrait appears in one of the stained 
glass windows of the vestibule, opposite that of Padre Junipero 
Serra. Here the fine copy of Murillo's Immaculate Con- 
ception, flanked by a St. Michael and an Annunciation, help 
produce a most devotional atmosphere, just where the com- 
mercial part of the city meets the Chinese quarter. 

On Nob Hill, in California street between Mason and 
Cushman streets, is the brown stone mansion that formerly be- 
longed to James C. Flood, the Comstock millionaire. Some- 
what enlarged, it is now the spacious and beautiful home of 
the Pacific Union Club. 

Besides these, there is the Montgomer]) Block, on the east 
side of Montgomery street, between Merchant and Washington, 
which, through some strange freak of the air drafts, entirely 
escaped the flames. It dates from 1853, having been built 
by the law firm of Halleck, Peachy, Billings & Park. The 
first named member of the firm became distinguished later as 
Major General Henry W. Flalleck, the original of the statue 
in Golden Gate Park. 



Monuments and Landmarks 



137 




"TREASURE ISLAND." 



I 38 Handbook for San Francisco 

Coppas restaurant, with its black cats and Bohemians on 
the walls, and other vagaries of the artists that foregathered 
there, was in the southern or Merchant street corner of the 
Montgomery Block. And in the northern corner still remains 
one living, organic relic, not merely of the city that was, before 
the great fire of 1 906, but of the older mining-camp city of 
the "fifties" — the Ban}^ Exchange saloon, with its old steel en- 
gravings, its pavement laid in 1 852 of marble slabs that came 
around the Horn, its walnut bar whose front moulding has been 
worn down to one smooth bevel by the coat-sleeves of the count- 
less bankers, brokers and adventurers that have rested there 
for their social glass, its Wedgwood handled beer pumps, 
its sedate mirrors, its silver bell wine-cooler, souvenir of the 
days when "Bell of Moscow" champagne was the favorite 
tipple of its frequenters. 

This has been no common bar. In its day it was a focus 
of activity in the seething young city. It was in the heart of 
town. William Tecumseh Sherman had a bank nearby. It 
was while crossing the corner in front of the Bank Exchange 
on May 14, 1856, that James King of William was shot down 
by James P. Casey — a murder that led to the uprising of the 
Vigilance Committee of that year. 

Before the Stock and Exchange Board was organized in 
1862, the Bank Exchange was the rendezvous of the stock 
brokers, and here they transacted most of their business. Law- 
3'ers, doctors, engineers, members of the professions, dropped 
in to meet the leading men of the young community and hear 
the news of the day. 

Bret Harte and Mark Twain knew this place well. 

In later days a dark, thin-faced, quiet man came to haunt a 
certain corner. Usual^ he stood at the west end of the bar 
with his back against the wall, in conversation by the hour 
with E. J. Moore, attorney for Adolph Sutro. The thin 
man was not much of a talker, but he was a grand listener, and 
here he absorbed the lore of what he later declared to be the 
most romantic city in America. His lodging during part of 



The Old Cemeteries 1 39 



the time was just across the corner, at 8 Montgomery avenue 
— Mrs. Hunt's. You can not find it, tor the building of the 
Fugazi Banca Popolare Operaia ItaHana stands on the site. 
But that a place of so much local atmosphere and such asso- 
ciations should have escaped the searching mind of Robert 
Louis Stevenson is not to be imagined. 

The financial center has moved away from Washington and 
Montgomery streets. The Bank Exchange is close pressed by 
the Latin quarter. An Italian syndicate owns the building. 
But right at his post behind the slab of sleeve-worn walnut, 
in spite of the earthquake and fire and the changes of time, 
you may find Duncan Nicol, with his recollections, and his 
old-time skill, and his pince-nez hung on his ear, less bar- 
keep' than apothecary, compounding the same tried prescriptions 
that gladdened the ways of the past. 



LONE MOUNTAIN, AND THE OLD CEMETERIES 

From various heights the visitor sees, in the northern part 
of the city and about on the median line of the peninsula, a 
rounded hill, surmounted by a tall cross. On the slopes of 
Lone Mountain, many of the great adventurers that built San 
Francisco made their last camp in the west. About it, on 
ell four sides, lie those dim old gardens of the dead, Calvary, 
Laurel Hill, and the Masonic and Odd Fellows cemeteries. 
Some, in places, have gone partly back to nature. Burial 
in them was prohibited by the Board of Supervisors in 1900, 
and in 1912 the Board declared its intention to order them 
vacated. But while they remain they are worth a visit for their 
associations, their surroundings, and the softened and winsome 
beauty that time has put upon them. 

Lone Mountain rises to a height of 468 feet, between St. 
Rose's avenue on the north, (one block south of Geary street), 
Turk street on the south. Masonic avenue on the east and 
Parker avenue on the west, within the quadrangle formed by 



1 40 Handbook for San Francisco 

the four old burial places. It affords one of the finest views 
of the city. To ascend, the best approach is at the south- 
west corner, which can be reached by taking the Geary Street 
Municipal Railrvay to Parser avenue, and walking a block, 
south, or the McAllister street car. No. 5, and rvall^ing a block 
north. The cemeteries about it can be reached by the same 
cars — Laurel Hill cemetery more conveniently by taking the 
California street cable to Presidio avenue, or a Sutter street 
car. Lines I or 2, which pass the entrance. 

The prospect from the top of Lone Mountain is an almost 
uninterrupted cyclorama of San Francisco. 

It was of Lone Mountain that San Francisco's poet, Bret 
Harte, wrote: 

This IS that hill of awe 

That Persian Smdbad saw, — 

The mount magnetic ; 
And on its seaward face, 
Scattered along its base. 

The wrecks prophetic. 



This IS the end of all; 
Sun thyself by the wall, 

O poorer Hindbad! 
Envy not Sindbad's fame: 
Here come alike the same, 

Hindbad and Sindbad. 

Qalvary, the Roman Catholic cemetery, lies on the eastern 
buttress of the hill, between Geary and Turk streets. Masonic 
and St. Joseph's avenues. All about it the city bears the 
stamp of perennial, striving youth; but here is a place conse- 
crated and apart, where one feels the past; and the sweet peace 
of age. Weathered headstones totter in the shade of ancient 
willows and cypress, and the air is perfumed with the breath 
of lupins and old Castilian roses. 

At the eastern end you will find the family vault of W. S. 
O'Brien, of the bonanza mining firm of Flood & O'Brien; of 
William Sharon, where Mrs. Sharon lies, though he is buried 



The Old Cemeteries 141 

in Laurel Hill ; of the Dunphys, the Shirleys, the De Laveages ; 
and the tomb of Peter Donahue, connected with such early 
industrial enterprises as the founding of the Union Iron Works 
and what is now the Northwestern Pacific Railway, and his 
son, James Mervyn Donahue, who gave San Francisco the 
monument to "Mechanics" that greets the visitor at Bush and 
Battery streets. 

Even here they offer hospitality in the city of their pride, for 
one can mount by granite stairs to the roof of the Donahue 
mausoleum and get a close view of one of the most populous 
parts of San Francisco. 

Laurel Hill, known to the older San Franciscans as Lone 
Mountain Cemetery, lies on the north flank of Lone Moun- 
tain, between California street, Presidio and Parker ave- 
nues, and the south side of the private property lying to- 
ward Geary street. The California street cable line ends 
at its northeast corner, and the Sutter and Clement line. No. 2, 
passes its main entrance on Presidio avenue at the head of 
Bush street. It is cpen from 7 a. m. to 5 p. m. 

"Lone Mountain Cemetery," as Laurel Hill is still called 
by the older San Franciscans, is peculiarly the necropolis of 
San Francisco, and the repository of many historical data. 

On stone and mausoleum are chiseled memorials of all 
stages of the city's life. 

Here is the grave of Edward Gilbert, first editor of the 
"Alta California." Near the southeast corner of the cemetery 
is a plain shaft bearing the inscription: 

Thomas J. Nevins. The Board of Education and Citizens of San 
Francisco unite in erecting this monument to his memory as the Founder 
of Common Schools in this City and State, and as the first Superintendent 
of Common Schools in San Francisco. 

Here are souvenirs of that great uprising of the "people 
in arms," the Vigilance Committee of 1856. Up Greenwood 
avenue, past the lodge and just beyond the grave of Mortimer 
Fulton, "Chief Engineer of the Pacific Mail Steamship, Golden 
Age," who died in 1856, is a small hill encircled with an 



1 42 Handbook for San Francisco 

iron fence overgrown by its laurestina hedge, with a white 
obelisk to James King of William, whose murder by James 
P. Casey provoked the resort to extra-legal public defense. 
Near by is the grave of Col. Richardson, the victim of Charles 
Cora, hanged by the Vigilantes with Casey. They hanged 
Cora largely because they feared that the eloquence of his 
counsel. Col. E. D. Baker, killed at Ball's Bluff during the 
civil war, and also buried in Laurel Hill, might secure him 
an acquittal. 

One tomb is worthy to be a shrine of childhood; that of 
Robert B. Woodward, the shrewd and kindly Rhode Island 
Yankee that made a fortune providing rough comfort for miners 
and ranchers in the old *'What Cheer House ^ at Sacramento 
and Leidesdorff streets, and put a large part of it into a fairy- 
land for children in "the Mission." Old timers that got 
their money's worth at his homely hotel, and San Franciscans of 
this generation whose childhood recollections are the brighter 
for memories of Woodward's Gardens will recall his name 
with affection, though both gardens and hotel are gone. 

Here also is the tomb of Dr. Hugh H. Toland, founder of 
Toland Medical College, which he "transferred by uncon- 
ditional gift to the University of California, and thereby estab- 
lished its Department of Medicine," and of Elias Cooper, 
"who founded Cooper Medical College, A. D. 1872"; now 
the medical department of Stanford University. 

Thos. O. Larkin, Silas W. Sanderson, Lorenzo Sawyer, 
Horace Hawes, A. A. Sargent, Hall McAllister, John F. 
Miller, are some of the familiar names in politics and the law. 
Col. John W. Geary is buried here, the last Alcalde and first 
Mayor of San Francisco. The family tomb of Milton S. 
Latham, one of California's early governors is one of the finest 
in this cemetery. 

Capt. Joseph L. Folsom, who first suggested the name of 
"San Francisco" for the little hamlet on the bay shore, is 
buried in Laurel Hill. Arthur Page Brown, architect of 
the Ferry building, a man that profoundly affected the style 



The Old Cemeteries 143 



of architecture in San Francisco, found his last resting place 
here. There are names well known in finance, such as William 
H. Dimond and Peder Sather; and Isaac Friedlander, whose 
monument bears a sheaf of wheat in token of the part he played 
in the world movement of the cereal when San Francisco saw 
the grain ships leave her port at the average rate of one a day. 
Here again are great names of the Comstock epoch: William 
C. Ralston, who founded the Bank of California and built 
the Palace Hotel, and William Sharon, United States Senator, 
and genius of ore milling; and Senator Fair, partner of John 
W. Mackay. 

On a knoll amid the more important mausoleums is a mon- 
ument to Senator David C. Broderick, that "Senator of the 
Fifties" who was killed in a duel with Judge Terry in early 
days, and over whose bier Col. E. D. Baker pronounced a 
notable funeral oration. The western spirit of democracy 
speaks from the stone, which bears the name of Broderick 
between the words "Mechanic" and "Senator." 

At the far western end are German, Scandinavian and 
French plats ; and the graves of three Japanese sailors, to which 
the march of events in the Pacific have given a peculiar his- 
torical interest. The headstone of the central one reads: 

In memory of Me-Nay-Kee-Tchee, who died May 20, 1860. A 
Japanese sailor attached to Steam Corvette "Candinmarrah," the first Jap- 
anese vessel that visited any foreign port. This monument is erected by 
order of the Emperor of Japan, by Charles Wolcott Brooks. 

Odd Fellon)s Cemetery lies directly west of Lone Mountain, 
between Parker avenue and Arguello boulevard, Turk and 
Geary streets. The columbarium is a beautiful structure, in a 
buoyant and joyous spirit, with a fine dome, good mosaics, 
and an interior illuminated by stained glass windows some 
of which are of a high order of merit. The two galleries of 
alcoves are designated, on the first tier, by the Greek names 
of the winds, and on the second by the names of the constel- 
lations as they appeared at the hour of the dedication of the 
building. The architect was B. J. S. Cahill. 



1 44 Handbook for San Francisco 

Masonic Cemetery lies south of Lone Mountain, between 
Turk and Fulton streets. Masonic and Parker avenues. There 
are some fine mausoleums here, especially the Wieland tomb 
in the southwest corner. A humble grave contains the dust 
of Emperor Norton, that strange figure of the older city, whose 
only empire was in his own touched brain and the hearts of his 
San Francisco subjects. 

By far the most quaint and interesting object in this en- 
closure is the grey granite pyramid, about eight feet in height, 
toward the southeast corner, marking the grave of Hugh Whit- 
tell, pioneer. Its naive inscriptions read: 

All you that chance this grave to see, 

If you can read English may learn by me. 

I traveled, read and studied, mankind to know. 

And what most interested them here below. 

The present or the future state and love of power. 

Envy, fear, love or hate occupied each wakeful hour. 

All would teach, but few would understand. 

The greater part know little of either God or Man, 

Love one another, a very good maxim all agreed. 

Learn, labor and wait, if you would succeed. 

In the five divisions of the world I have been. 

The cities of Peking and Constantinople I have seen, 

On the first railway I rode before others were made, 

Saw the first telegraph operate, so useful to trade. 

In the first steamship the Atlantic I crossed. 

Suffered six shipwrecks where lives were lost. 

In the first steamer to California I did sail. 

And went to China by the first Pacific Mail, 

After many endeavors my affairs to fix, 

A short time I will occupy less than two by six. 



MISSION DOLORES. 

Located on the west side of Dolores street, between Sixteenth 
and Seventeenth. Open every day from 1 a. m. to 5 p. m. 

Market street line. No. 8, transfer at Church street to Fill- 
more and Sixteenth line. No. 22, and get off at Sixteenth street. 

This is San Francisco's only very old building, interesting 



Mission Dolores 



45 



as a memorial of the first white men on the peninsula and 
interesting also for some of the graves in the little vine-tangled 
cemetery under its south wall. 

The Mission was established in 1 776, the year of the 
Declaration of Independence, no echo of which, we may sup- 
pose, reached it for years, and then merely as an affair of 




ORIENTAL SECTION PORTOLA PARADE, PASSING MISSION DOLORES. 



a foreign people. Junipero Serra blessed and consecrated it 
as the northernmost of the California missions ; although others 
v/ere established at San Rafael and Sonoma several years 
afterward. 

The building itself dates from 1 782. The walls are four 
feet thick, built of adobe, the sun-dried bricks of the Spanish 
pioneers, as the deep embrasures of the windows show. Two 
circumstances indicate that it must have been considered the 
most important of the niissions ; its main altar is the finest among 



146 HandbooI( for San Francisco 

them all ; and it bears the name of the founder of the Franciscan 
order, San Francisco d' Assisi, to which order had been 
entrusted the civilizing of California. 

Against the northern wall is a large painted screen, built in 
sections, symbolizing the doctrine of the Holy Eucharist. This 
screen was placed in front of the altar at the celebration of the 
Eucharist, once a year. Near the entrance, set in the red- 
baked tiles of the floor, is the marble slab that marks the tomb 
of the Noe family, Spanish grantees and grandees of the days 
"before the Gringo came." 

There are three bells in the facade, hanging by ropes of 
plaited rawhide ; two are cracked, and one has lost its tongue. 
These, though mute, are the Mission carillon of which Bret 
Harte wrote: 

Bells of the past, whose long-forgotten music 

Still fills the wide expanse, 
T ingeing the sober twilight of the present 

With color of romance, 

I hear you call, and see the sun descending 

On rock, and wave and sand. 
As down the Coast the Mission voices blending 

Girdle the heathen land. 

Borne on the swell of your long waves receding, 

I touch the farther Past, — • 
I see the dying glow of Spanish glory, 

The sunset dream and last! 

Before me rise the dome-shaped Mission towers, 

The white Presidio ; 
The swart commander in his leathern jerkin. 

The priest in stole of snow. 

Once more I see Portola's cross uplifting 

Above the setting sun; 
And past the headland, northward, slowly drifting, 

The freighted galleon. 

The ceiling and ceiling beams retain the decorations of red 
and white paint the Indians put on them over 1 00 years ago. 

Within a short while after its founding the Mission had 814 
Indian communicants. The Rev. Walter Colton, in his "Three 



Mission Dolores 



147 



Years in California," says that in 1825 its wealth had grown 
to 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2000 brood mares, 
84 fine stud, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke 
of oxen 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley, $33,UUU in 
merchandise and $25,000 in cash. Today all that the residents 
of the neighborhood know of Indians is what they have seen 




INTERIOR OF THE MISSION DOLORES. 



Weidner, photo. 



of them in Wild West shows, or read behmd the lid of the 
desk in school. Very few representatives of the Spanish fami- 
lies of the valley are left; and the old establishment finds itself 
pressed upon by such modernity as the ball park, the High 
School, the Swedish Tabernacle and the Norwegian Lutheran 

church. ... ^ , . „ 

Among the myrtle vines and tottering willows of the cemetery 
are three graves of especial interest for their association with 
San Francisco history. 



1 48 Handbook for San Francisco 

One is the tomb of Don Luis Antonio Arguello, first gov- 
ernor of Alta California under the Mexican regime; born in 
San Francisco, in 1 784, and brother to that Concepcion de 
Arguello whose sad romance with the Russian, Resanov, Bret 
Harte and Gertrude Atherton have embalmed in verse and 
story. 

Another is "Sacred to the memory of James P. Casey, 
who departed this life May 22, 1856; aged 27 years." The 
inscription in no way discloses the grim fact that on that date 
he was hanged by the Vigilance Committee at Fori Gunnybags 
on Sacramento street, for the murder of James King of William. 

And another stone is "Sacred to the memory of James 
Sullivan, who died by the hands of the V. C. May 31, 1856, 
aged 45 years." This inscription is not literally true, although 
it might have been, for this was "Yankee Sullivan," world's 
champion pugilist of his day, who suffered the solitude of his 
plank cell in that same Fort Gunnybags, and heard the grim 
conferences, and the midnight alarms, and the guards moving 
to and fro, and the prisoners brought in and taken out again, 
until terror bested him and he killed himself. 

The great parade of the Portola festival of 1909 was 
halted before the Mission, while the modern representative of 
Don Caspar de Portola saluted the modern representatives of 
the Padres. 

In the parked space in front of the Mission is a bell marking 
the road as El Camirio Real, the "Highway of the King" ot 
Spain. It is the road of the Franciscan monks and the sol- 
diers of Portola, the route of travel from the Mission at San 
Diego. Up this long way they came, in cassock and in cuera, 
in cowl and morion, advancing the sway of the Cross and the 
frontiers of the King, through the Salinas valley, by Monterey 
and up the San Francisco peninsula, and their route is dotted 
with missions — San Gabriel, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, 
San Miguel Archangel, San Antonio de Padua, Soledad, San 
Carlos, Carmel, Santa Clara, San Juan Bautista, Santa Cruz 
and many more. The sign board declares that this is the 



Golden Gate Park 



49 



"Mision de los Dolores, dedicated to San Francisco de Assisi, 
Oct. 9, 1 776." Here, then, we have the origin of the name 
and the beginning of San Francisco, almost at the end of the 
northward march of the Padres. 




CHILDREN'S PLAYGROUXD, GOLDEN GATE PARK. 

GOLDEN GATE PARK. 

From Stanyan street, three miles westward to the Pacific 
Ocean, and from Lincoln Way on the south 2,500 feet north- 
ward to Fulton street; with a "Panhandle" a block wide, be- 
tween Oak and Fell streets, carrying the Main Drive eastward 
eight blocks to Baker street. 

Turk &' Edd^ car. Line No. 4; McAllister No. 5, Ha-^es 
No. 6; Haight No. 7 ; or Geary Street Municipal Railroad, 
marked A. 

This is the great park of the United States, the crowning 
achievement in providing the people of a city with gardens 
and forests and lakes and streams and waterfalls of their own. 



^0 Handbook for San Francisco 




ON STOW LAKE, IN GOLDEN GATE TARK. ^''^^'^' ^^*'^''" 



Golden Gate Park 151 



within city limits. Nothing Hke it in extent and in loveliness 
exists in any other American municipality. 

There are 1013 acres in this Park, and the area contains 
long drives, walks, lakes with row boats, hills with fine pros- 
pects from their summits, nine baseball diamonds, six baseball 
fields, a dozen tennis courts, handball courts, a bowling green, 
the most completely equipped children's playground to be found 
anywhere, a thirty-acre stadium, with a trotting horse speed- 
way 60 feet wide and an infield for all sorts of field sports; 
bear, deer, buffalo, kangaroo, elk, Alaskan moose, the largest 
windmill in the world, the only vessel that ever sailed through 
the Northwest Passage, and thousands of varieties of plant life, 
from the Pulu fern of Hawaii to the Norway maples that 
take on autumn tints in spring — for the Park corresponds and 
exchanges with every botanical garden of any size in the world. 

Here one sees the healthy life and leisure of the community. 
San Franciscans use their park. The drives swarm with fine 
equipages, fast motors, and ruddy-faced lovers of good horse- 
flesh bound for the speedway in wire-wheeled sulkies. Youth 
rides the bridle paths. Groups of children are rolling and 
tumbling about the lawns, for there is not a "Keep-off-the 
Grass" sign in the whole thousand acres. 

The Main Drive, including the part in the Panhandle is 
4^/2 miles long. There is usually a surrey near the Stanyan 
street entrance that will take you around the drives at the 
rate of a dollar an hour, and another at the Eighth avenue 
gateway. Automobiles for Park service are to be had from 
any of the downtown hotels, or auto livery stands. But if you 
would see the Park properly, walk. Take a day for it and you 
will wish the time were longer. 

Entering by the Main Drive from the Panhandle, you pass, 
on your right, the pretty stone and tile-roofed lodge of the 
superintendent, John McLaren, to whom is due most of the 
credit for the transformation of the sand dunes into this place 
of beauty. McLaren is recognized abroad as one of the great 
park managers of the world, and has been put in charge of 



1 52 Handbook for San Francisco 

the landscape gardening for the Panama-Pacific Exposition. 

The Conservatories are worth a visit for they contain a great 
collection of orchids, palms, ferns, water lilies, cycads, lycopods 
ctnd a profusion of flowering things too numerous to name. 

Northeastward of the Conservatories is the Arizona Gar- 
den, of cactus and yucca and flowering aloe. There is usually 
a "century plant" in bloom here. 

The North Ridge drive swings around from behind the 
conservatories, and opposite its junction with the Main Drive 
the trail takes ofl" to the left, for the Aviary. Here are gor- 
geous pheasants, cockatoos, Alaskan ptarmigan, great Cali- 
fornia eagles and a riot of winged life. 

BUFFALO HERD. 

Beyond the A.viary, southwestwardly, is the Buffalo pad- 
dock, containing what "Buffalo Bill" declared to be one of the 
finest herds of American bison in existence. 

South of the Buffalo paddock, turn back on the Main Drive 
to the eastward. At this end of the Park, joined by winding 
roads, are grouped the tennis courts, the baseball grounds, the 
croquet grounds, the bowling green, and the children's quarters 
with the playground apparatus, donkey drives and other juve- 
nile delights. Simple refreshments are provided here at low 
prices. 

Lake Alvord with its fountain is opposite the Haight and 
Stanyan street entrance to the Park. 

The Bear garden contains some fine specimens. Nearby, to 
the westward, is the deer park, and farther on, the Arboretum. 
Beyond that, still further westward, is the large glen where 
range fine herds of elk, the noble animal showing here in his 
perfection, for California is his natural home. 

Everyone should visit the Memorial Museum. For descrip- 
tion, see index. 

Broad steps lead down to the floor of Concert Valley, where, 
in the elmy shades before the Temple of Music, the Sunday 
afternoon crowds hear selections by a fine band. Concerts 
begin here at 2 p. m. on Sundays and holidays. 



Golden Gate Parl( 



53 



The Temple of Music is the gift of Claus Spreckels. 

In the Japanese Tea Garden have been exercised the arts 
of generations of garden lovers. Tiny rivulets, intricately 
cramped and baffled in their course, make tinkling water- 
falls, and then quiet down into turbid little lakes crossed 
by quaint bridges and stepping-stones. About their margins 




A BIT OF JAPAN, IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. 

stand Buddha lanterns of stone and pottery, and old bronze 
cranes forever peering for fish. Odd-looking Asiatic pines and 
cedars stretch level arms above. Trees, dwarfed in porcelain 
jars, have been bent back, bound down, contorted, distorted, 
artificialized into strange organic pictures and living ornament. 
If it is Spring, you will catch some of the wonder of the 
Cherry Blossom festival of Nippon; and with the cherry blos- 
soms will be those of the flowering quince, peach and plum, 
cultivated not for their fruit but for the dazzling bloom that 
sets thick on every bough. 



1 54 Handbook for San Francisco 

Stow Lake, beyond the Japanese garden, is not only good 
landscape gardening, but quite remarkable engineering. It 
consists of a broad sheet of water poured around the base of 
Strawberry Hill, 428 feet high, which is thereby turned into 
an island, accessible by two bridges. There is a boat house 
at the lake's western end, where boats can be hired at a nom- 
inal charge. Two piers here are used by the San Francisco 
Fly-Casting club. 

Swans glide on the waters, and during the winter months 
there may be a thousand old emerald-headed mallard drakes 
and their sedately garbed mates poking about among the lily 
pads, secure from the gunner and making fine weather of it. In 
spring the mother ducks will tow fleets of little ones around the 
lake after them. 

From the top of Strawberry Hill the Farallone Islands can 
often be seen. 

HUNTINGTON FALLS. 

Quail abound, and little jewel-eyed rabbits. At the east- 
ern end of the hill are Huntington Falls, which tumble from a 
reservoir near the top. Amid the spray at the foot of their 
descent, in a singularly beautiful nook, grow magnolias, rock 
maples, and tree ferns. 

Directly north of Stow Lake boat-house, on a bluff over- 
looking the Main Drive, stands the Pra'^er Book Cross, of 
ancient Celtic design. It is a massive piece of masonry, forty 
feet high, and was erected at the expense of the late George 
W. Childs of the Philadelphia Public Ledger, under the aus- 
pices of the Episcopal Diocese of Northern California, to 
commemorate the first religious service in the English language 
on the Pacific Coast ; held by Drake's chaplain in 1 5 79 on the 
shore of Drake's Bay, north of the Golden Gate. 

Nothing could execeed the delicate beauty of Llo^d Lake, 
with its graveled margins and flowering banks, its Portals of 
the Past flanked by Irish yews, and reflected from its shining 
surface. It is just on your right, near the Main Drive as you 
travel westward. 



Golden Gate Park ^^^ 

"^ The doorway belonged to the A. N. Towne residence, on 
Nob Hill. 

One can leave the Main Drive beyond the first bend west 
of Lloyd Lake, take the bridle path to the left and reach the 
Stadium, where games and races are held. 

The bridle path will take you back to the Main Drive near 
Spreckels Lake, a broad and fine sheet of water, where one 
can see regattas of model yachts. 

Following the Main Drive still westward one emerges on 
the Great Highway, between one of the Dutch windmills and 
the historic sloop Gjoa, with the U. S. Life Saving Station 
in the corner just to the northward. 

THE LARGEST WINDMILL. 

This windmill at the northwest corner of the Park, is the one 
first constructed. It cost $25,000 and has a capacity of 30,- 
000 gallons an hour in a fresh breeze. Its model is the type 
used in Holland. The water pumped is fresh, from a strong 
flow seaward under the Park and the lands adjacent, and the 
sails lift it into Stow Lake. 

The other Dutch windmill at the southwest corner of the 
Park, is the largest ever built. Samuel G. Murphy gave $20,- 
000 to construct and equip it. Its two arms are 1 1 4 feet 
long, or 57 feet from center to tip; of Oregon pine, two feet 
thick in the middle and eight inches at the ends. It pumps 
40,000 gallons an hour. 

The object of main interest at the west end of the Park 
is the sloop Gjoa (pronounced Yoah) nested in rock and pro- 
tected by an iron fence, just inside the Great Highway. This 
is the only vessel that ever sailed through the Northwest Pass- 
age, having been navigated on that occasion by Capt. Roald 
Amundsen, discoverer of the South Pole, who presented her 
to San Francisco in care of the Park Commissioners on June 
16, 1909. 

We have now traversed the Park in a general way, from 
one end to the other and indicated its most conspicuous fea- 



56 



Handboof^ for San Francisco 



tures. But some of its greatest beauty is in its inconspicuous 
ones. If you wander back afoot you will discover for yourself 
more charm and delight than we could ever tell you. It is a 
"miracle of rare device" and growing more beautiful with every 
day's work done for its improvement ; the particular pride of 
the people of San Francisco, the greatest park in America, 
one of the great parks of the world. 




TREE FERNS IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. 

GOLDEN GATE PARK MEMORIAL MUSEUM 
AND ART GALLERY. 

Situated in Golden Gate Park, south of the Tenth avenue 
entrance. Open from 1 a. m., to 4 p. m. ; and on Saturdays, 
Sundays and holidays until 5 p. m. Admittance free. 

Turk &• Edd^ car. Line No. 4, to terminus at Eighth avenue 
and Fulton street; or McAllister street car. Line No. 5 to same 
point; or Geary Street Municipal Railroad to Tenth avenue 
entrance. 



Memorial Museum and Art Gallery 



57 



If you enter at Eighth avenue, turn to the right, and walk 
in the direction of the Music Stand, past the monuments to 
Starr King, Junipero Serra and General Grant. The Museum 
is in. the Egyptian temple, among the palm trees, on the right. 
If you enter from the Geary Street Municipal road, at Tenth 
avenue, go to the left, and pass under the big stone bridge. 

This museum is the best possible monument to the public 




MEMOIilAL MUSEUM, GOLDEN GATE PARK. 



spirit of the people of San Francisco. It has never had a pur- 
chasing fund, and yet, beginning as a small collection bought 
with proceeds of the California Midwinter International Expo- 
sition, held in the Park in 1 894, it has grown by loan and gift 
until it comprises works of art and specimens of the crafts 
valued at many million dollars, and relics and documents that 
are beyond all price. 

It has a large natural history collection. Its art gallery 
contains authentic works by Leonardo da Vinci, Dupre, Dau- 



1 58 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco 

bigny, Millet; and copies of some fine works of old masters. 

A history of San Francisco could almost be written from 
the contents of its Pioneer HalU brought together by the in- 
dustry of the curator. Prof. George H. Barron. 

There are priceless collections of ancient oriental carvings. 
There are relics of Napoleon that can not be found elsewhere. 
There are ethnological exhibits from the South Pacific and from 
Alaska that could hardly have been collected in so short a time 
at any other city than this focus of Pacific trade. 

Three thousand people, at this writing, are visiting the build- 
ing on week days, and over 25,000 on Sundays. 

The Natural History collection is in the upper galleries. 
Don't fail to see the cases of butterflies, moths and birds. To 
the right, on the ground floor, are the Colonial Rooms, and to 
the left Pioneer Hall, with portraits and mementoes of the 
Pioneers, and with a complete set of paintings of the Missions 
of California. 

Statuary Hall contains some beautiful sculptures by Ran- 
dclph Rogers, and W. W. Story. The latter's "Saul" is much 
admired. 

In the Church Room are carvings, shrines, tabernacles, and 
a slipper of Pope Pius IX. 

The BasJ^et Room contains a great collection of Indian 
basketry. 

The Mineral Room is extremely interesting, as one would 
expect in the leading mining state. 

The Art Galleries contain fine portrayals of California sub- 
jects, by such local artists as Keith, Thomas Hill, Gamble, 
Cadenasso, Julian Rix, Theodore Wores, Lucia Matthews, 
Arthur Matthews, Xavier Martinez, Charles Rollo Peters, 
Oscar Kunauth, M. Evelyn McCormack, Joseph Raphael, 
E. G. Stanson, Piazzoni, Tavernier, Neuhaus, Jules Pages and 
many more that found a peculiar stimulus in California condi- 
tions and scenes. 

The room farthest west, of the art galleries, contains some 
celebrated canvases — "A Saint at Prayer" by Leonardo da 



Memorial Museum and Art Gallery 



159 




IX STATUARY HALL, MEMOIUAL MUSEUM. 

Vinci; a landscape by Charles Francois Daubigny and a 
"Twilight" by Jules Dupre, and between them hangs a paint- 
ing of sheep by Jean Francois Millet. 

There are fine tapestries and ancient furniture in the Tapeslr}} 
Room. The Armor Room illustrates the evolution of modern 
arms, and some of the antique armor here is very beautiful. 

Oriental Hall contains some of the most curious and beau- 
tiful objects to be found. In addition to exquisite Chinese, 
Japanese and East Indian works of art, there is the lacquered 
saddle presented by the Mikado to General Grant; and high 
on the south and west walls an object of great interest and 
affection to San Franciscans: the great Chinese processional 
dragon borne in parades and festivals on the heads of half a 
hundred swaying Chinese, before the days of the Chinese 
Republic. Its last appearance was in the Portola parade. 

Egyptian Hall, Textile Hall, and the room devoted to 
Ceramics are all very interesting. 

The Royal Bavarian Pavilion contains the Jewel Holly the 
ceiling of which is modeled on one in the royal palace at 
Munich. The carved rock crystals, oriental jade scepters and 
dagger handles, and other bits of art work are no less than fas- 
cinating. 

At the entrance to the Napoleon Room, which contains 
many authentic relics of the Emperor, is the gold medal 



1 60 Handbool( for San Francisco 

presented to San Francisco by the Republic of France to 
commemorate the rebuilding of the city. 



THE SAN FRANCISCO INSTITUTE OF ART. 

Situated at the southeast corner of California and Mason 
streets, on the former site of the Hopkins mansion. 

Powell, California or Sacramento street cars. 

Open daily, except Sundays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Ad- 
mittance free on Tuesdays and Saturdays; on other days, 25 
cents. 

The galleries offer a treat to art lovers. There are over 
300 paintings, statues and other works of art in the collection. 
Attendance at the Institute of Art and the School of Design 
here conducted by the San Francisco Art Association is among 
the largest at institutions of the kind. The Hopkins mansion 
was deeded to the Regents of the University of California in 
trust for the Art Association by Edward F. Searles of Methuen, 
Mass., and became known as the Mark Hopkins Institute 
of Art of the University of California. It was destroyed by 
the conflagration of 1 906, but within little more than a year, the 
Association succeeded in erecting a building on the old foun- 
dations, and reopened the school with all its departments. In 
view of the fact that the memorial buildings of the Mark Hop- 
kins Institute had been obliterated, it was decided to call it 
thereafter the San Francisco Institute of Art. 

Among the more notable attractions of the galleries is an 
unusual collection by the German painters of the last century, 
including Piloty's painting of "Wallenstein on his Way to the 
Castle of Egger" ; "Portrait of the Artist," by Franz von Len- 
bach; two admirable examples of Schreyer's "Arab Horse- 
men"; and others by Wagner, Weber and Liebermann. 

The French painters are represented by several drawings 
and water colors, the work of such famous artists as Berne- 
Bellecour; Rosa Bonheur, who is represented by a fine paint- 



Museum of Anthropology 161 

ing of a *'Lioness and Cubs"; Meissonier, De Neuville and 
Millet. There are two landscapes in oil by Pelouse, an ex- 
ample of Van Marke's cattle, and another by Troyon; the 
"Call to Prayer" by Gerome, and the "Captives" by Constant. 

The most important accession to the museum is the Emanuel 
Walter collection, which came in the nature of a bequest from 
Emanuel Walter, and represents his gleanings through Europe. 
The catalogue shows a landscape by Constable, three pieces 
by Corot, a battle piece by Camphausen, a landscape by Chin- 
treuil, a head by Van Kaulbach, and other pieces by Bou- 
guereau, Alma-Tadema, Jean Francois Millet, Gustave Dore, 
Landseer, L'Hermitte, and many more of note. 

Paintings by such Californians as Keith, Dickman, Julian 
Rix and Thomas Hill, including Arthur Matthews' fine his- 
torical piece, the "Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco by 
Portola," have been presented by Mrs. Benjamin F. Avery, 
Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, Hon. James D. Phelan, Mr. Edward 
F. Searles and others. 

The building is temporary. The Institute is to have its 
permanent home in the civic center. (See index.) 



MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY (THE HEARST 
COLLECTIONS.) 

Situated in the westerly building of the Affiliated Colleges 
of the University of California. Admittance free. Open 
from 10 a. m., to 4 p. m., daily except Monday. The Affil- 
iated Colleges are on Parnassus avenue opposite Second and 
Third avenues, with a grand outlook northward across the 
Park and the Golden Gate. 

Ha\)es street car. Line No. 6. 

This is the largest museum of its kind west of Chicago, and 
one of the most complete anthropological collections in the 



62 



Handbool^ for San Francisco 



world. Its existence is due almost entirely to the munificence 
of Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, who laid out over a million dol- 
lars assemblmg it. 

From Egypt, Greece, Italy and Peru and from all Cali- 
fornia, there have been brought together over 75,000 objects 
illustrating "Man and His Work." Costume, habitation, imple- 
ments, ornament, arms and armor, processes and practices of 




AFFILIATED COLLEGES, ACROSS GOLDEN GATE PARK. 

men primitive and civilized, from rearing children to dispos- 
ing of the dead, all find exemplification here, and the museum 
administration has adopted the device of giving free Sunday and 
holidays afternoon lectures at 3 o'clock, to make the under- 
standing of the subject more general. 

These lectures are unique. So also is the "revolving ex- 
hibit" of articles from different departments, on which the lec- 
tures are based, and which are changed every two months. 

The present value of the collection is in the neighborhood of 
$5,000,000. It has been brought together out of the labors 



Museum of Anthropology 1 63 

of such practical archeologlsts as Dr. Reisner, Max Uhle, and 
Dr. Alfred Emerson, and is under the care of Prof. A. L. 
Kroeber. 

The main halls are the Creel^ Hall, the Peruvian Hall, the 
Revolving Exhibit Hall, the Egyptian Hall, which is also the 
auditorium, seating about 125 people; and the California 
Indian Hall, which is the largest of all and contains what is 
probably the most complete collection of Indian basl^etr}) in 
existence, including fish traps, storage baskets, head dresses 
and other rare and interesting examples of Indian weaving. 

The California Indian Hall contains, besides the basketry, 
some fine redwood canoes, and the elk-horn wedges with which 
the primitive workmen split and dug them out. In all the 
cases hang sm.all maps of California showing the location of the 
tribes represented by the different articles. On the shores 
of San Francisco bay there have been over 450 shell mounds, 
the kitchen middens of Indians that lived here 3,000 years ago. 
These also have yielded their evidence of life, manners and 
conditions as they then existed. 

There are beautiful specimens of ceramics from Greece and 
Italy, with bits of sculpture, bronze ornaments and pieces 
of bronze armor of the classic age. The Peruvian room con- 
tains implements not found elsewhere, and a good collection 
of Peruvian mummies and mummy jars. There is a singing 
bird made of clay. 

To make this museum the more complete, there is connected 
with it a living example of an "uncontaminated" savage, in the 
person of Ishi, the Yana Indian from Tehama county. Ishi is 
the last of a vanished tribe, and has carried into the environ- 
ment of a modern city the arts that men were compelled to use 
before civilization touched them. Other Indians build fires 
and light their pipes with parlor matches. Ishi uses the friction 
method, and you can see him at it, and understand how our 
cave-dwelling ancestors had to slave for the roughest necessi- 
ties. 



1 64 Handbook for San Francisco 

Probably there are very few Indians left in the country that 
can make a neat arrow-head or spear-head from a piece of 
flint. Ishi not only flakes arrow heads from obsidian, but even 
exercises his ancient art on such a refractory material as plate 
glass, chipping it into slender blades and long points for spear- 
ing fish. He has also built a dwelling in the grounds to show 
how it is done — a wigwam of lodge poles and leaves. Ishi 
is permanently attached to the museum staff, and exhibits his 
skill for the edification of visitors. 

This is an extremely valuable museum in an educational 
way, and contains a great mass of material not classified, from 
the South Seas, Alaska and other far places. 



CALIFORNIA DEVELOPMENT BOARD; OFFICE. 
LECTURE ROOM AND EXHIBITION HALL. 

Located in the Ferry building, foot of Market street. Open 
from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Entrance free. Visitors welcome. 

Take an^ car dorvn Market, Mission, Clay or Union street. 

Here is probably the finest exhibit of fruits to be found. 
California is a great mineral state, but its orchards alone pro- 
duce annually more wealth than all its mines, oil wells, quar- 
ries and cement plants — over $97,000,000. Its vineyards 
yielded, in 1912, $26,000,000 more. In the same year it 
grew over $ 1 46,000,000 worth of general farm and garden 
products, exclusive of the dairy output. Its forest products 
are worth about $30,000,000 annually. Olives and olive oil 
gave more than $2,360,000 in 1912. And for size, quality 
and perfection of appearance the samples on display in the 
exhibit of the Development Board are unrivaled. 

The '*pi"ocessing" of fruit in transparent liquids so that it can 
be displayed in all its ripe perfection originated in California, 
and is understood by but a few experts here. The result of 
their scientific skill can be seen at its best in this exhibition hall. 
The wealth and diversity of the displays are bewildering. 



California Development Board 1 65 

Thirty-six counties send their finest examples of apples, peaches, 
prunes, nectarines, oranges, olives, pears, apricots, melons, 
grapes, nuts, corn, potatoes, beets, and similar products — a 
wider range, owing to the mildness of the California climate 
over a great sweep of territory, than any other state in the 
Union can exhibit. 

The samples are shown in large glass jars or urns, exactly 
as they grow. Even alfalfa plants have been thus embalmed, 
so that their size and structure appear as they would in the 
field. 

The object near the entrance, which nobody can pass without 
examination, is the large physical relief map of California. It is 
I 8 feet long and seven feet wide, and spreads before you all 
the topographical features of the state, with the whole coast 
line and all the indentations. 

This map may enable you to select your future home. "The 
San Joaquin valley, with seven million acres, and the Sacra- 
mento valley with four million acres of rich agricultural land, 
can give to 550,000 families a farm of twenty acres each, 
ample for their sustenance; to say nothing of the Santa Clara, 
Salinas, Napa, Sonoma and other rich valleys throughout the 
state. The rate of increase of California's population during 
the decade from 1 900 to 1910 was 60. 1 per cent larger 
than that of any state outnumbering her in population." Yet 
she has a density of but 15.2 persons to the square mile. Bel- 
gium has over 600; Rhode Island has 508; Massachusetts 
has 418; Illinois 100. 

The Development Board keeps a complete file of Govern- 
ment agricultural bulletins, and soil and climate reports. It 
has literature on distribution about the resources and oppor- 
tunities afforded by various sections of the state, from every 
county that publishes any. Its annual report is a statistical 
survey of California, which can be had for the asking. In ad- 
dition there is a lecture hall, where lectures on various parts 
of California, illustrated with lantern slides, are delivered every 
30 minutes from 1 to 4 o'clock during the afternoon. In 1912 



1 66 Handbook for San Francisco 

the average attendance at these lectures was 500 a day. About 
fifteen counties send lecturers, to inform prospective settlers of 
their chances. 

The Development Board has nothing to sell. The infor- 
mation furnished is impartial and disinterested, and is based on 
actual agricultural surveys by experts in the field. Informa- 
tion on California will be mailed by the Board to persons in- 
terested, on request. 



STATE MINING BUREAU, LIBRARY, AND MIN- 
ERAL MUSEUM. 

Located in the Ferry building, foot of Market street. Open 
from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Entrance free. Visitors welcome. 

An}) car dorvn MarJ^et, Mission, Cla]) or Union street. 

As one of the world's great mining regions, California might 
be expected to. maintain an important department of mines. 
And it does. To the tourist, the intending settler, or the 
experienced mining engineer, there are few places in San Fran- 
cisco of greater interest than the State Mining Bureau. 

The museum contains a most valuable and beautiful min- 
eral collection. There are about 1 8,000 specimens, and they 
come from all over the globe, and beyond; for almost the 
first things one sees on entering are three large meteorites, or 
"falling stars." In the vestibule is a fine exhibit of California 
structural materials. 

California has produced over one and a half billion dollars 
worth of gold since Marshall's discovery at Coloma in 1 848. 
The year 1852 holds the record for output, with $81 ,000,000. 
The present yield is about $20,000,000 annually, the largest 
among the states. 

Entering the museum one sees a complete working model 
of a five-stamp ore mill, which runs by electricity. On the 
walls are pictures of early scenes in the "diggings," with here 



State Mining Bureau 1 67 

and there some such interesting relic as a primitive rocker for 
washing gold from the sand and gravel. There are pictures 
of the oil fields, and models of mines. 

The long cases contain mining and geological specimens of 
quartz, of uncut diamonds, of nuggets, of beautiful agates, 
amethysts, tourmalines, beryl, kunzite, jasper, jade, aqua 
marines, opals, sapphires — all the gems one ever heard of. 
There is a clear quartz crystal weighing 1 06 pounds. 

There are rare specimens of leaf and crystalline gold, and 
of silver found in the form of masses of wire, and in ex- 
quisitely foliated shapes, like ferns done in frost. There are 
stalactites tinted with copper to the green shade of falling 
water, and others that look like growths of bronze. There .s 
probably no mineral worth the mention that is not represented 
here. 

Two glass bell jars cover models of Australian nuggets 
about the size of small valises. Of the 25,000 visitors that 
register annually, a very respectable percentage inquires if they 
are solid gold. They are not. 

There is also a model of the nugget James W. Marshall 
found in the race of Sutter's mill on the American river, the 
little pellet that started the gold rush. 

One could spend several delightful hours in the mineral 
museum. In addition, there is the mining and metallurgical 
library, a quite exhaustive collection of the best works in this 
field of knowledge, and there is a well equipped laboratory. 
This is the head office of the state's Department of Mines. 



UNITED STATES MINT. 

At the westerly corner of Mission and Fifth streets. Access- 
ible by Market, Mission or Fifth street cars. Open to vis- 
itors daily, except on Sundays and holidays, from 9 to I 1 :30 
a. m., and from 12:30 to 2:30 p. m. Regularly appointed 
conductors will take visitors through and explain the processes 
of melting and coining. 



68 



Handbook for San Francisco 




UNITED STATES MINT, FIFTH AND MISSION STREETS. 

The building is architecturally handsome, designed in the 
classic style of the Treasury of the United States at Wash- 
ington, and, like the Treasury, impressing the beholder with 
a sense of the dignity of the Government. The principal fea- 
ture consists of the six fine Doric columns, forming a portico, 
above an imposing pyramid of granite steps. The building 
dates from 1873, and sustained almost no damage from the 
fire of 1 906, or from the earthquake. The original Mint 
building, erected in 1853-4, was on Commercial street. 

More gold has been coined at the San Francisco Mint since 
its establishment in 1 854 than at any other in the country, 
not even excepting Philadelphia, which has been coining since 
1 793. At this writing the San Francisco Mint is the only^ 
one in the country where gold is coined. 

Over $1,340,000,000 worth of twenty-dollar gold pieces 
have been minted at San Francisco. Of ten-dollar pieces 
over $127,000,000 have been produced here; and $120,000,- 
000 in five-dollar pieces. About ninety and a quarter thousand 
gold dollars have been coined at this mint, but few are now to 
be found except at an occasional money lender's office along 
Montgomery street. Some three-dollar gold pieces and a large 
number of quarter-eagles were also made. As this is written. 



United States Mini 169 



the Mint is coining bronze centavos for the Philippines, and will 
undertake, on contract, to turn out money for any Central 
American country or Pacific island that has no coinage facili- 
ties of its own. 

In the fiscal year 1912 this Mint received over $53,000,- 
000 worth of gold. It comes from all over the Pacific Coast 
and Alaska, some from the Philippine Islands, and even 
Japan and Australia. 

The processes are interesting to watch, and visitors are always 
welcome. 

The supposition is quite general that a miner, or any owner of 
bullion, takes it to the mint and reseives the same metal back 
after it has been converted into coin of the Republic. He does 
not. What happens is more like this: 

The bullion is taken to the receiving room, and the owner 
gets back a receipt for it by gross weight, with nothing said 
of its value. Thence it goes to the deposit furnaces, where 
most of the base metal and dirt is eliminated. Back in the re- 
ceiving room it is weighed, and then goes into a machine that 
chips a little off each side; and the pieces are assayed to de- 
termine their fineness. Weight and assay report are turned 
over to the computers, who by an exhaustive calculation ascer- 
tain the value. The checks on this process are so complete 
that all danger of error is eliminated. A warrant is drawn for 
the amount, less charges for assaying and weighing, and the 
depositor receives his money on the day following the deposit. 

The bullion is now the property of the United States. At 
present little gold is being coined, and receipts of it are likely 
to be melted down into bricks of about four hundred ounces, 
worth about $8,000 each, and stored Hke paving blocks in 
the basement. 

If the metal is silver it receives this sort of treatment: First 
the melter and refiner takes the crude bullion and puts it through 
an electrolytic refining process, which turns it out .999 fine^ 
and better. It then receives an addition of enough copper to 
make it 900 one-thousandths fine. In the melting room it is 



I 70 Handbook for San Francisco 

run into ingots, which are cleaned in a pickle, smoothed on 
the edges, trimmed at the ends, and sent back to the make-up 
room, where the metal is weighed and assayed once more, and 
delivered to the coiner as good and proper raw material from 
which to make money. This ingot-casting process makes a fas- 
cinating scene, with the liquid gold or silver poured, blazing, 
into the iron molds. 

The coiner's department takes the ingots and by successive 
passages through steel rolls reduces them to strips ten to twelve 
feet long, and com thick. These shining ribbons then go 
through a machine that punches out the planchetts, or blanks. 
They look like buttons with the shanks lost. A weigher sits 
alongside, snatching samples from the hopper as they fall from 
the machine, and weighing them to make sure that the strip 
has been rolled enough, and that nobody is going to get too 
much of Uncle Sam's metal in his money. 

Annealing and cleaning follow, and a passage through the 
dryer, whence the blanks go to the milling machine and the 
presses, to be milled, reeded on the edges, and stamped into 
legal tender. 

When gold is coined, stamping is preceded by more 
weighing, in automatic weighing machines so delicate they 
have to be encased in glass, and so ingenious that they separate 
the light and heavies, automatically, from blanks of proper 
weight. The light-weights are rejected and must go the round 
again, but the heavies are clamped m a lathe, ten or a dozen 
at a time, and delicately filed on the edges as they turn. 

The finished coins are counted by means of boards fitted 
with fiddles or frets, which keep them in rows of uniform 
number; and finally they go to the great storage vaults to re- 
main until called into circulation. 

The long-continued heavy coinage of gold at San Francisco 
is intimately connected with the peculiar financial history of 
California. The people of this state have always preferred 
coin to currency, and it may have been largely due to their sen- 
timental regard for the metal their mines produced, that all 



Court House and Post Office 171 



through the Civil War, they conducted their business on a 
specie payment basis. Private contracts specified it, and gen- 
eral convention refused to recognize the "greenback" and the 
"shin-plaster," except at enormous discount. 

Those interested in numismatics will find in the entrance 
loom of the Mint a very interesting collection of coins, belong- 
ing to the Society of California Pioneers; and here, also, 
is a large collection of medals belonging to the government. 

In the Pioneers' collection of coins is an oblong bar of gold, 
bearing the stamp of Frederick D. Kohler, state assayer, and 
the date 1850. It circulated as money, of the value of $50. 
These were the days of private minting. Coin was scarce and 
it was the custom for the San Francisco merchant to keep a 
pair of balances on his counter, to weigh the gold dust, which 
passed at a heavy discount. Some more convenient medium 
cf exchange was needed, and the Mint had not yet been 
established, so private firms issued stamped ingots, octagonal 
in shape, which circulated at the face value of $50. In the 
windows of some of the brokers' offices along Montgomery 
street there can still be seen specimens of these fifty-dollar 
"slugs" as they are called, some of them issued by Augustus 
Humbert, United States assayer, and dated 1851 and 1852. 



UNITED STATES COURT HOUSE AND POST 
OFFICE BUILDING. 

Situated at the north corner of Mission and Seventh streets. 

Take Market street cars and walk half a block southeast 
from the corner of Seventh and Market, or take Mission street 
cars and get off at the corner of Seventh. 

Probably there is no post office like this in the United 
States Here you walk through marble halls, and not white 
marble only, but rich, warm and beautiful Pavonezza, Sienna 
and Numidian, trimmed with Verde Antique and with col- 
ored stone from Tennessee and Maryland. The style of treat- 



1 72 Handbook for San Francisco 

ment is Italian Renaissance. Overhead, the ribs of the quad- 
rinated vaulting are picked out in glass mosaic, and the columns 
are paneled with it. 

Some of the United States court rooms are extremely beau- 
tiful and impressive, and the chambers are finished in a way 
that can properly be characterized as sumptuous. The building 
cost two and a half million. 

The United States Circuit Court of Appeals, for the Ninth 
Circuit, which sits here, has the widest range of jurisdiction, 
territorially, of any similar court- in the country. It hears ap- 
pealed cases from the whole Pacific Coast — Arizona, Idaho, 
Montana, California, Oregon, Alaska, Hawaii, and even from 
the United States extra-territorial court in Shanghai. In addi- 
tion to the Post Office, the structure houses also the court 
rooms, libraries and chambers of two divisions of the United 
States District Court for the Northern District of California; 
of the Master in Chancery; and of many Federal officials. 

At present the San Francisco Post Office holds about sev- 
enth place in the United States in respect to postal receipts. 
Since 1888 these have grown from $665,844, to $2,670,179 
for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1912; a gain of more 
than $2,000,000 a year, or over 300 per cent in the annual 
totals, in 24 years. 



HALL OF JUSTICE, CRIMINAL COURTS, MODEL 
CITY PRISON, PORTSMOUTH SQUARE. 

San Francisco's Hall of Justice is the handsome grey stone 
building on Kearny street between Merchant and Washington. 
To reach it: 

Take Kearny street cars. Lines No. 15 or 16; or Mont- 
Somer'^ and Tenth street line (no number). The Sacramento 
street line, traveling east, runs a block south of it, or trvo blocks 
south of it when traveling rvest. 

The Hall of Justice contains the city's four police courts. 



Portsmouth Square 1 73 



and the three criminal departments of the Superior Court of 
San Francisco County. (Civil departments are in the City 
Hall.) The courts open at 10 a. m. 

The building cost over $ 1,1 00,000, and is of the finest 
steel frame construction. From without it would never sug- 
gest a thought of the city prison on the top floor, yet here is 
one of the model jails, said by visiting police officials and cor- 
rective experts to be the finest thing of the kind in the United 
States. 

The Hall of Justice stands on a historic site and overlooks 
historic ground. 

Portsmouth Square was the plaza of the early settlement, 
and was the center of activity. The first custom house was 
built on the northwest corner of the plaza in 1845, with its 
north end on Washington street, according to Eldridge, in his 
"Beginnings of San Francisco," and was used as a barracks 
on the American occupation. In front of the custom house 
was the flag pole on which Montgomery, from the sloop-of- 
war "Portsmouth," raised the American flag. The square 
was the scene of public gatherings, celebrations, parades, mass 
meetings, sometimes riots, and all about it were the brilliantly 
lighted, mirror-walled gambling palaces, where the flush miners 
craving excitement sometimes lost the fruits of a year's labor 
in a night; and went back to more toil on the river bars instead 
of "going home." Here Col. E. D. Baker pronounced his 
celebrated funeral oration at the bier of Senator Broderick, 
before a concourse of 30,000 people. 

Near the southeast corner of Clay and Kearny streets, over- 
looking the square, Robert Ridley kept a billiard hall, and 
in it there hung the Vioget map of Yerba Buena, as the town 
was called at that time. Grants of land were made according 
to this map, and the name of the grantee was written on it in 
the appropriate place — so here we have the original hall of 
records. The Jenny Lind theater overlooked the square from 
the east, and after it had twice burned and . had been re- 
built in stone, it was sold to the city in 1852 for a city hall. 



74 



Handbook for San Fran 



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The Civic Center 1 75 



In 1 895 the ground was cleared for the Hall of Justice that 
was destroyed in the conflagration of 1 906. Before its de- 
struction, however, the Committee of Fifty, appointed by the 
Mayor on April 1 8th, met in the basement of the building, 
on the Merchant street side, on the evening of that day, to dis- 
cuss measures for the safety of the city. It was the last public 
use of the building. 



THE CIVIC CENTER. 

San Francisco has voted $8,800,000 of bonds through 
which to provide lands for and help create one of the noblest 
groups of public buildings in America. The total cost, includ- 
ing land and construction, will come to about $16,800,000. 

The site lies in a general easterly direction from Van Ness 
avenue between McAllister and Grove streets to Hyde; and 
the median line of it, which is Fulton street, extends a block 
beyond, to the junction of Fulton and Market. 

The two blocks between Polk and Larkin, running from 
Grove to McAllister, form a beautiful plaza, with ornamental 
shrubbery and a band stand, and about it will be the Muni- 
cipal Auditorium, Opera House, Museum, State Building, 
Public Library, and City Hall. 

The architects for the Civic Center are John Galen How- 
ard, Fred Meyers and John Reid, Jr. 

Naturally the dominant feature of such a group will be the 
City Hall, plans for which were awarded after open competi- 
tion to the local firm of architects, Bakewell & Brown. 

The City) Hall will occupy two blocks between Grove and 
McAllister streets, with one facade on the line of Polk street, 
and another on Van Ness avenue. The plans show a building 
covering an area of 300 by 400 feet. The main two facades 
are composed each of a central pediment carried on columns of 
the Doric order, flanked by smaller Doric colonnades. The 
main architectural feature of the building is an immense dome. 



76 



Handbook for San Francisco 




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Panama-Pacific Exposition 1 77 

1 1 feet in diameter, or 1 4 feet less than the dome of the 
capifol at Washington, and 300 feet high, or 10 feet higher 
than the capitol dome. 

The structure will cost, complete and equipped, about 
$4,000,000. In it will be accommodated the various offices 
of the consolidated city and county of San Francisco. 

At present, the Cit^ Hall is temporarily located in an office 
building on Market street near Eighth. 



THE PANAMA-PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL EX- 
POSITION. 

At the present writing, the place of most absorbing interest in 
San Francisco is the 625 acres at Harbor View, Fort Mason 
and the east end of the Presidio, that is being covered by the 
courts and exhibit palaces of the Panama-Pacific International 
Exposition. Until the gates are opened on the completed 
scheme, the mere physical construction of the gigantic "plant 
will be an exhibition of stupendous human effort. 

Visitors will be admitted within the fence for a nominal fee. 
To reach the center of activity at the Exposition grounds, near 
the general Service Building: 

Take any Sutter street car and transfer to Fillmore street, 
going north. Or, Presidio & Ferries car (Union street line) 
and transfer to Fillmore. 

To reach foreign, state and county buildings, in the Pre- 
sidio : 

Take Presidio & Ferries car (Union street line) from the 
Ferry, or on transfer from the O'Farrell street line, and go to 
terminus. 

Automobiles can go out Van Ness avenue and turn in at 
Lombard street. 

Extensions of present street car facilities will provide many 
additional ways of reaching the exposition grounds, but these 
are the direct approaches at present. 



78 



Handbook for San Francisco 



Fifty million dollars is a conservative estimate of the amount 
that will be expended in the construction of this greatest of 
world's fairs. Over $10,000,000 will be invested in amuse- 
ment concessions alone. 




PliAN OF THE rANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION. 

The celebration of the opening of the Panama Canal in this 
manner was first suggested at a meeting of the directors of 
the old Merchants' Asociation in 1904, by Mr. R. B. Hale, 
then a director of the Association and now a director of the 
Exposition. On the 28th of April, 1910, over $4,000,000 
dollars was subscribed to the stock of the Exposition company 
in less than two hours by a meetmg that crowded the Mer- 
chants Exchange to the walls. The total subscriptions of 
the citizens of San Francisco will approximate $7,000,000. 
The State of California has appropriated $5,000,000, and 
the municipal government a like amount. The California 
counties are raising millions for their exhibits. 

The officers of the corporation are: 

President, Charles C. Moore; vice-presidents, William H. 
Crocker, R. B. Hale, I. W. Hellman Jr., M. H. de Young, 
Leon Sloss and Hon. James Rolph Jr. ; secretary, Rudolph J. 
1 aussig ; treasurer, A. W. Foster ; executive committee, Charles 
C. Moore, Frank L. Brown, M. H. de Young, Alfred I. 
Esberg, William H. Crocker, Curtis H. Lindley, A. W. Fos- 



Panama-Pacific Exposition 



79 



ter, R. B. Hale, James McNab, I. W. Hellman Jr., and 
Leon Sloss. 

The general offices, downtown, are in the Exposition Build- 




THE WORLD'S EXPOSITION AT THE GOLDEN GATE. 

I ing, at 2 1 6 Pine street, corner of Battery. 

In addition to celebrating the completion of the Panama 
Canal, the Exposition has for a concrete ambition nothing 
less noble than the advancement of civilization by twenty-five 
years. 

The department of exploitation issues this significant "fore- 
word": 

The Panama-Pacific International Exposition is a distinctly national 
undertaking determined upon by the Congress of the United States, and 
designated by the President of the United States for the purpose of cel- 
ebrating the opening of the Panama Canal — a national accomplishment 
that importantly affects the world. 

In assuming the burden and expense of the Exposition, in response 
to the call of the President and the Congress of the United States, the 
people of California are discharging an important public duty and execut- 
ing a national trust, the accruing benefits of which will be shared by 
every state in the union and by the entire citizenship of the nation. 

While this great inter-hemisphere waterway is a national project, it 
is nevertheless a world's asset, and the celebration of its opening will be 
participated in by all countries and peoples. The Exposition will con- 
stitute an international concourse of tremendous significance in its effect 
upon the natural productivity and commercial activity of all countries, 
and of the United States m particular. 



1 80 Handbook for San Francisco 

MARKETS. 

San Francisco is a great depot for the collection and dis- 
tribution of foods, and her markets are a feature of interest 
that no traveler should miss. Here can be seen the best 
of California fruits in their perfection ; such interesting things 
as the Burbank spineless cactus pear ; the loquat ; oranges, 
lemons and grape fruit of the cleanest and most beautiful ap- 
pearance and the finest flavor, the earliest shipments of which 
go east from Rocklin, 1 I 2 miles northeast of San Francisco. 
Tropical fruits from the islands are on display. 

The best-known entrepot of foods in San Francisco, and the 
most modern and completely equipped in the world is the 

California Market, running through the block from Pine to 
California street, between Montgomery and Kearny. This is 
a large, open, airy place, spacious and clean, where one can 
see all the different kinds of fish, fruits, flowers, meats and 
game that can be procured in San Francisco at any given sea- 
son of the year. The building is new, erected since the fire 
of 1906, of reinforced concrete, on the site of the old market 
that was built here in 1867, and has served as a model of 
sanitation for markets in several other coast cities. The ground 
floor is devoted to retail trade. The fish booths are interesting, 
showing in season on their marble counters the finest striped 
bass, shad, pompano, small fry, Tahoe trout, sturgeon, salmon, 
soles and sanddabs, crabs and clams. 

Along the east side are oyster booths long ago grown into 
full sized restaurants, where the fish is fresh and the cookery 
skillful. These places have been prime favorites with San 
Franciscans for almost two generations. It was here, it is 
said, that the oyster cocktail was invented; the small tooth- 
some California oyster being especially adapted to this par- 
ticular form of appetizer. 

It is below the ground floor, however, that the main activi- 
ties of the market are carried on. The magnitude of the 
business transacted here is a thing of which San Franciscans 



In the Markets 18 



themselves know little. One firm of tenants conducts a complete 
creamery in the basement, which turns out 1 ,000 pounds of 
butter a day. Upstairs the buttermilk can be had on draught. 

Two tenants of this market do 80 per cent of the poultry 
business of the city. One firm sells an average of 3,000 fowls 
daily. About 8,000 chickens are kept on hand continuously. 
The transports running to the Philippines, the United States 
forces at the Presidio and Fort Mason, are supplied from this 
institution. Beef and mutton are handled on a similar scale. 

The California Market covers 55,000 square feet of ground, 
and the investment in land and plant represents three-quarters 
of a million dollars. The refrigeration machinery and cold 
storage chambers alone cost over $60,000. 

Other downtown markets, similarly neat, modern and sani- 
tary, and also new since the fire, are the 

Spreckels Market, 751 Market street. 

Lincoln Market, 877 Market street. 

Longs Market, 945 Market street. 

Ba^ City, 970 Market street. 

Washington, 983 Market street. 

Some of these do an enormous retail business and are well 
worth visiting. 

Besides these, there are two that deserve special mention. 

If you would see living and moving scenes such as those from 
which the old Dutch painters wrought their bitumen pictures, 
leave your hotel about 4 a. m., or earlier, and find your way 
down through the echoing emptiness of dark streets to the 
Colombo Market, on Davis street, running through to Front, 
between Jackson and Pacific. Here come the Italian truck 
gardeners from South San Francisco and below Hunter's Point, 
and from San Mateo county, trundling in the day's garden 
truck and the salad for a city, on gigantic, high-sided carts 
that loom in the murk like Gargantuan tumbrils with the food 
for an army. It is a weird scene — the echoing hoof-beats in 
the vacant streets, the shadowy lines of wagons moving between 
brick walls broken here and there by a cavernous arch, the 



182 Handbook for San Francisco 

booted and belted teamsters shouting to one another in full- 
throated Italian, the tons of dimly descried produce dumped in 
the market under the strugglmg electric lights, the loud-voiced 
huckstering and chaffering, and after that is done the swarm- 
ing into the neighboring restaurants for coffee or "vmo" and 
breakfast, and the final dispersal as the day grows lighter and 
the uncertain shapes of the night have taken normal form; all 
go to make a series of tableaux vivaniSy that once witnessed 
will long remain as one of your most picturesque impressions of 
San Francisco. 

Returning to more conventionalized parts of town, arrive 
by 7 a, m., or earlier, at the San Francisco Wholesale Grotvers^ 
Flower Market, at 347 Bush street, just below the Stock Ex- 
change. Here you will find assembled in a dim basement, 
scores of gardeners and flower dealers, with such an abundance 
of floral beauty as you will seldom see elsewhere ; for San 
Franciscans are a flower loving people. It matters not what 
the season may be, June or December, January or August, 
there will be a wealth of bloom and it does not have to be 
protected from freezing, even in the open air. The flower ven- 
ders along Market street draw a large part of their supplies 
from this point. 

The free fish and crab market near Fishermen's Wharf has 
been sufficiently described in the directions for Trolley Trip 
No. 3, in this book. 



SAN FRANCISCO'S YEAR-'ROUND FLORAL EX- 
POSITION. 

That sparkling bit of V^anity Fair, the Market street after- 
noon parade, passes in its course two corners where masses of 
gorgeous bloom are set like snares for the contents of the 
passer's pocketbook. Yet the lure is not a serious financial 
danger. A small amount commands a large gratification. It 
would hardly be correct to say that everybody buys flowers, 



Floral Exposition 



83 



but it is true that everybody that wants them can have them, 
for the prices are ridiculously small. All the long summer 
through, and a large part of the winter, 25 cents will buy a cor- 
sage bouquet of roses, or a spray of carnations and maiden 
hair, or a cluster of huge chrysanthemums larger and more per- 
fectly developed than ever grew in Japan. 




THE OUTDOOR FLORAL FAIR. 

In February, fifty cents will buy exactly such a mass of 
acacia bloom as it takes ten dollars to buy in New York. A 
great, fragrant bunch of violets that will perfume a room can 
be bought for a dime. 

San Francisco is the only city in the United States that per- 
mits flower vending at free street stands, and one of the very 
few in which the climate would allow these perishable wares to 
be exposed for sale the year around. Most of the trade is cen- 
tered at Market and Kearny streets, but the venders are all 
through the shopping district, and are patronized by all classes. 



1 84 Handbook for San Francisco 

The long-stemmed and odorous Princess violets are espe- 
cially noteworthy. Possibly the little district of Grasse, in 
southern France, grows violets as fine as the San Francisco 
variety, but no other part of the world does. Most of them 
come from the vicinity of Colma, just across the San Francisco 
line, in San Mateo county, where some four hundred acres 
of them perfume the air all through the long blossoming sea- 
son. From San Francisco they are shipped up and down the 
coast, from San Diego to Canada, and other shipments go 
as far east as Kansas City and Chicago. 

From March to June you will see the satin-petaled, shining 
glory of California fields and hillsides, the Golden Poppy, 
called by the Spaniards "Copa de Oro," or Cup of Gold. It 
is a brave and living thing of fire, making in the valleys pools 
of dazzling radiance, and in places pouring itself down the 
western slopes of the coast hills in glowing carpets that can be 
seen far out at sea. Named botanically for the first naturalist 
that described it, Eschscholtzia Californica, has been formally 
and by statute adopted as the State flower. 

The regular retail florists, doing business in their own stores, 
make bewildering displays of orchids, lilies of the valley, and 
poinsettias, showing a prodigal abundance of stock that only a 
vigorous and general demand would justify carrying. 



LINCOLN PARK AND FORT MILEY. 

Lincoln Park is a part of San Francisco no one should fail 
to visit. It is situated on the heights above Land's End, and 
northeast of Point Lobos and the Cliff House, and from an 
elevation of two hundred feet it commands a close view of all 
the wonderful features of the harbor entrance. To reach it: 

Take Sutter & Clement car. Line No. 2, get off at 33d ave- 
nue, and Walk a block Tpest; or, take Sutter and California car. 
Line No. /, marked Cliff, to 33d avenue. 



Lincoln Park and Fort Miley 



85 




LOOKING INTO THE GOLDEN GATE — LINCOLN PARK. 



If you take time while visiting the vicinity of the Cliff House, 
it is an easy walk from there. 

Part of these airy uplands have been laid out by the city 
for public golf links, where one can play six holes on a north- 
and-south course, or nine by playing westward from the north- 
ern-most green, toward Land's End. The links are open to 
public use without charge. 

Lincoln Park was once the city cemetery, and considered 
so far removed from the city that it was given over largely 
to the burial of the poor, and of a few foreign sailors. Here 
the Chinese, also, gave their dead temporary interment, before 
shipping home the bones to lie in the soil of the Celestial King- 
dom. West of the golf course are two curious structures of 
brick and cement, forming enclosures open to the sky, with 
high walls at the west ends. They look like stone beds for 
giants. These were the mortuary chapels where the Chinese 
held their final funeral rites, offering the sacrifices of roast pig 



86 



Handboof^ for San Francisco 



and fowl, and burning the paper images whose ghosts were to 
attend the dead. 

On a hill toward the north stands a monument, "A Land- 
mark of the Seaman's Last Earthly Port and Resting Place, 
in which he Awaits the Advent of the Great Pilot." It was 
erected by Dr. Henry D. Cogswell, to the Ladies' Seaman's 




CHINESE MORTUARY CHAPEL, IN LINCOLN PARK. 

Friend Society, and dedicated to Mrs. Rebecca H. Lambert, 
the society's founder, whose grave is under the cypresses nearby. 
From the turn of the road just west of this monument is 
one of the most inspiring views to be found anywhere, em- 
bracing the Golden Gate and a large part of the city. You 
are close to the water, and directly opposite the Marin county 
bluffs, which rise three hundred, four hundred, nine hundred 
feet, sheer from the waters of the Golden Gate, and have 
been eroded into rugged canyons and sharply sculptured ridges. 
You can look north to Drake's Bay, and then, turning to the 



Lincoln Park and Fori Mi7e\j 187 

right, you see Point Bonita, the north headland of the har- 
bor, Point Diablo directly across, Lime Point with Battery 
Spencer on the bluff above, the mile-wide opening of the Golden 
Gate between Lime Point and Fort Winfield Scott, and 
through the Gate, Raccoon straits, leading into the northern 
part of the Bay, with Angel Island to right of the channel. 
Stretching back from the little brick fort are the scarred bluffs 
of the Presidio, against whose wooded heights are ranged the 
coast defense batteries, though indistinguishable at this distance. 
Far beyond are the Contra Costa hills, across the Bay. Still 
further to the right appears Lone Mountain with its cross, 
the towers of St. Ignatius church, the heights of Buena Vista 
Park, the Affihated Colleges on the slope of Mt. Sutro, and 
before the college buildings the long, dark lane of verdure run- 
ning westward, which is Golden Gate Park. A bit beyond the 
line of the Affiliated Colleges, and in the Park, rises the Prayer 
Book Cross, commemorating the first religious service ever held 
en the Pacific Coast — that one conducted by Drake's chaplain 
in 1 5 79 on the shore of the little bay that appears dimly in 
the north. 

Lincoln Park is in process of development, but when con- 
nected with Golden Gate Park and the Presidio by good roads 
it will be one of the famous parks of the world, for its inspir- 
ing view can be matched nowhere. 

Fort Mile^. On the heights above Point Lobos and Land's 
End, and west and south of Lincoln Park. Accessible from 
the Cliff House by walking eastward up Point Lobos avenue 
to Forty-third avenue and then northward to main entrance at 
Forty-third avenue and Clement street. Or, 

Take Sutter & Clement car. Line No. 2, to 43d avenue and 
Walk north. 

This is a small artillery post, established in 1 90 L and is 
headquarters for the Pacific Coast Artillery District. The 
views from the roads here are very fine and command the coast 
for many miles to the northward. 



I 88 Handbook for San Francisco 

FORT MASON AND THE TRANSPORT DOCKS. 

Take Ninth & Polk streets cross town line, north bound, by 
transfer from any line of the United Railroads, and go to Lom- 
bard street. Walk three blocks north and a block T^est. 

The United States military reservation at Black Point, known 
as Fort Mason, is one of the many beautiful spots in San Fran- 
cisco. The view from the bluffs overlooking Black Point 
Cove, and from the entire water front of the reservation, pre- 
sents that wonderful panorama of bay and hills and wandering 
shore-line, of islands, ships and broken coast, of which the 
lover of the inspiring aspects of nature can never get enough. 
The Point projects well into the bay, and gives a view from 
the Berkeley hills clear around to the Golden Gate and through 
ii out to sea. 

Fort Mason is the site of the general supply depot of the 
Quartermaster's Department, the Signal Corps depot, the Medi- 
cal Supply depot and the army transport wharves. The resi- 
dences of the Department Commander and his staff are also 
here. Here is the largest Quartermaster's supply depot in 
the country carrying general stores. 

Directly westward are the Panama-Pacific Exposition 
grounds occupying the floor of the amphitheater known as 
Harbor View. Just under the bluff to the east is one of the 
two pumping stations of the city's auxiliary salt water fire 
protection system, practically a twin of the one at Second and 
Townsend streets. 

The Dolphin Swimming and Boating Club, the Ariel and 
the South End Boating Clubs are just below in Black Point 
Cove. 

Projecting northward into the channel, west of the point, 
are the 

United States Army Transport Docks, the only transport 
docks in the country that are owned by the government. 

These three piers are 500 feet long. The outer ones are 
8 1 feet wide, and the center one I 1 9 feet in width, with a rein- 



Alcairaz Island 189 



forced concrete shed 90 by 428 feet, and two lines of railroad 
track. 

One or two transports are always lying at these wharves, and 
visitors will be permitted to board them on application to the 
superintendent of the service, whose office is in the southeast 
corner of the pier, up stairs. The best time to visit the docks 
is on the fifth of the month, when the troop ship departs for 
Guam and the Philippines. The soldiers, five or six hundred 
of them, are brought over in the morning from the recruiting 
camp on Angel Island, and lined up along the dock to receive 
their mess kits for the voyage. The embarkation, in military 
order, is one of the sights of the city. Lines are cast off and the 
vessel leaves the dock promptly at noon. If the fifth falls on 
Sunday, the transport sails on Monday. 

In early days Black Point was a choice residence locality, 
and some of the dwelimgs along the east side of the point 
which are now occupied as quarters for the officers of the 
division commander's staff were "mansions" of the elite. In one 
of them, the old residence of Leonidas Haskell, Senator Brod- 
erick died of the wound he received in the duel with Judge 
Terry, in 1 859. 



ALCATRAZ ISLAND. 

Alcatraz (in Spanish, Pelican) island, opposite North 
Beach and Meiggs Wharf, and just within the Golden Gate 
is the site of the great military prison of the west, and is known 
throughout the army as "the Rock." 

This is the Chateau D'lf of America, a place from which, 
it is claimed, no prisoner ever escaped. It is about 20 acres 
in extent, and is safeguarded by the racing tides of the Golden 
Gate which at this point would baffle the strongest swimmer. 
With its light-house tower and grey prison walls it has a most 
romantic aspect, from many points on the bay. Military pris- 
oners are at present confined there, and there are accommoda- 



190 Handbook for San Francisco 

tions for about 600, but it is about to be turned over to the 
Department of Justice and converted into a Federal penitentiary. 
The light on Alcatraz is one of the most powerful in the 
light-house service. It is 214 feet above mean high water 
and on a clear night can be seen 2 1 miles at sea. 



SAN FRANCISCO IN BOOKS. 

San Francisco has supplied the material of a notable liter- 
ature. Every era of its history has produced its fiction historian, 
and the life atmosphere has persisted through all vicissitudes. 

Of this city Bret Harte wrote Gabriel Conroy; Frank 
Norris wrote McTeague, Blix, Moran of the Lady Letiy 
and in part The Octopus; and that gentle wizard whose fancy- 
freighted galleon floats the long years through, above the con- 
verging paths of Portsmouth Square, wrote his masterpiece. 
The Wrecker, with its smugglers, its plungers, its thrilling auc- 
tion of the wreck, on the floor of the Merchants Exchange; its 
reminiscences of the "What Cheer House" and of the Emperor 
Norton. 

On this local institution, the Empire of Norton, begotten of 
lunacy on the one side and, on the other, of a big-souled char- 
ity that expressed itself in a touching sort of fun, Stevenson 
has left us a passage redolent of the literary flavor of the city. 
He says: 

Of all our visitors I believe I preferred Emperor Norton, the very 
mention of whose name reminds me I am doing scanty justice to the folks 
of San Francisco. In w^hat other city would a harmless madman who 
supposed himself emperor of the two Americas have been so fostered and 
encouraged? Where else would even the people of the streets have 
respected the poor soul's illusion? Where else would bankers and mer- 
chants have received his visits, cashed his cheques and submitted to his 
small assessments? Where else would he have been suffered to attend and 
address the exhibition days of schools and colleges? Where else In God's 
green earth have taken his pick of restaurants, ransacked the bill of fare 
and departed scathless? They tell me he was even an exacting patron, 

threatening to withdraw his custom when dissatisfied a portly, 

rather flabby man, with the face of a gentleman, rendered unspeakably 
pathetic and absurd by the great sabre at his side and the peacock's 
feather in his hat. 



San Francisco in Books 191 

Including such writers as Ambrose Bierce, Bret Harte. 
Mark Twain, Gertrude Atherton, W. C. Morrow, Gelett 
Burgess and the Irwins, Wallace and Will, there is a long 
list of men and women of standing in their art who have 
sought to translate into letters the peculiar charm of San Fran- 
cisco. That the visitor's enjoyment of the locality may be 
heightened by their appreciation of it we give a list of some of 
them, and the work in which they have interpreted the spirit 
of the place. The books may be found in the public library or 
Mechanics-Mercantile, or may be purchased at the leading 
book stores: 

By Gertrude Atherton: A Daughter of the Vine; Ancestors; Rez- 
anof ; The Calif ornians ; Patience Sparharo\; American Wives and 
English Husbands; The Splendid, Idle Forties. 

By Geraldine Bonner: Hard Pan; The Pioneer; TomorroTo's 
Tangle; Rich Mens Children. 

Gelett Burgess: The Heart Line; Lad^ Mechante. 

Charles Warren Stoddard: Footprints of the Padres. 

Gelett Burgess and Will Irwin: The Picaroon. 

Esther and Lucia Chamberlain: The Other Side of the Door. 

Arnold Genthe and Will Irwin: Old Chinatown. 

Sara Dean: Travers. 

A. M. Douglas: A Little Girl in Old San Francisco. 

E. E. Green: The City of the Golden Gate. 

Jeremiah Lynch: A Senator of the Fifties. 

C. J. Jackson: The Day of Souls. 

Joseph L. King: History of the San Francisco Stocl^ and Exchange 
Board. 

Mrs. Fremont Older: The Socialist and the Prince. 

Helen Throop Purdy: San Francisco As It Was, As It Is, and HoTo 
to See It. 

Earl Ashley Walcott: Blindfolded; The Apple of Discord; The 
Open Door. 

Clyde Westover: The Dragons Daughter. 

Emma Wolf: A Prodigal in Love; Other Things Being Equal. 

W. C. Morrow: The Ape, the Idiot, and Other People. 

Chester Bailey Fernald: The Cat and the Cherub; The Gentleman 
in the Barrel. 

Ernest Peixotto: Romantic California. 

For broad and colorful sketching of the city before the fire, 
one can hardly do better than Will Irwin's The Cily That 
Was; and for good, vivacious narrative of the reconstruction 
we commend Rufus Steele's The Cii\) That Is. For the day 



192 Handbook for San Francisco 

of the Spanish pioneer, read Zoeth Eldredge on The Beginnings 
of San Francisco. John P. Young's history of the city em- 
braces the entire subject. 

Very readable San Francisco history runs through Theodore 
Hittell's History of California, and there is good descriptive 
matter in Hubert Howe Bancroft's Some Cities and San Fran- 
cisco. 

One of the leading sources of local history is the Colonial 
History of the City of San Francisco, by John W. Dwindle, 
known as "Dwinelle's Colonial History"; a brief prepared for 
the trial of an early land title case. There is also a History 
of the City of San Francisco, by John S. Hittell. 

Other good books dealing with early conditions or special 
topics are: 

The March of Portola and the Discovery of the Bav of San Fran- 
cisco, by Zoeth S. Eldredge, with which is included The Log of the San 
Carlos, and other documents translated and annotated by E. J. Molera. 

The Adventures of a Forty-niner, by Daniel Knower. 

Men and Memories of San Francisco in the Spring of '50, by Theo- 
dore Augustus Barry. 

The Neiv and the Old, by J. W. Palmer, M. D. 
Lights and Shades in San Francisco, by Benjamin E. Lloyd. 
Lights and Shadoivs of Life on the Pacific Coast, by S. D. Woods. 
Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco, by William Taylor. 
California Life, by the same author. 
San Francisco and Thereabout, by Charles Keeler. 
Pioneers of Prosperity, by David H. Walker. 

San Francisco's Ocean Trade, Past and Future, by Benjamin C. 
Wright. 

The Clouds and Fogs of San Francisco, by Alexander McAdie. 



LIBRARIES. 

San Francisco has some notable libraries and facilities for 
historical and scientific research. It has the finest medical 
library in the West, a Polish library, the largest French library 
in the United States, and just across the Bay, at the University 



f Libraries 193 

of California, in Berkeley, an important reference collection of 
300,000 volumes, including the famous Bancroft library of 
original historical documents and sources of history for Cali- 
fornia and the Pacific Coast. 

The San Francisco Public Library has its main collection, 
reference and reading room in a temporary building at Hayes 
and Franklin streets, but is to occupy a monumental public 
building in the Civic Center. It contains about 135,000 vol- 
umes. To reach its present location: 

Take Hayes street car. Line No. 6. 

At present a visitor may have the privilege of drawing books 
by filing the proper application for a card, signed by a tax 
payer as guarantor. Application blanks may be obtained at 
the main library or any branch. An additional card may be 
obtained for works other than fiction, which enables the holder 
to draw two books at a time. Cards expire two years from 
date of issue. 

The reference and reading rooms are open to the public from 
9 a. m. to 9 p. m. ; Sundays, 1 : 30 to 5 p. m. 

Mechanics' -Mercantile Library. At 57 Post street, in the 
Mechanics' Institute building, between Montgomery and 
Kearny streets. Open from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m. on week 
days ; and on Sundays and holidays from 11 a. m. to 5 p. m. 

This is a subscription circulating library. A member may 
introduce a friend not a resident of the city, who will be allowed 
the use of the rooms for one month; or non-residents may use 
the library for a month on payment of 50 cents in advance; 
but members only can draw books. The terms of membership 
are: entrance fee, $1.00; quarterly dues, in advance, $1.50; 
life membership, $50.00. 

The Mechanics'-Mercantile is next in point of popularity 
to the Public library, having been formed by the merger of 
two local institutions that were rooted in the life of the city 
in early days. Its chess room, a favorite resort of many pio- 
neers, is headquarters for the Mechanics' Institute Chess and 
Checker Club. 



1 94 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

BooJ^lovers and Tabard Inn Libraries. At 20 Geary street, 
near Market. Open from 9 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. 

The Booklovers is a circulating library of late fiction. Dues, 
$5.00 a year or 50 cents a month. About 10,000 volumes. 

The Tabard Inn Library, conducted at the same place, 
has a slightly different plan. The initial fee of $1.50 entitles 
the subscriber to the ownership of the first book, which may 
thereafter be exchanged on payment of a fee of 5 cents. 

The Paul Elder Library. At 239 Grant avenue, in the 
rear of the book store of Paul Elder & Co. Hours, 8:30 
a. m. to 5 :30 p. m. 

A library of late fiction. Books are rented at the rate of 
2 cents a day, (day of issue but not day of return) minimum 
charge, 5 cents ; no membership fee. A membership card is 
isued to each patron of the library, and accepted by the librarian 
as an identification. No deposit is required if a business refer- 
ence is given. About 1 ,500 copies of the latest titles. Espe- 
cially attractive to visitors, as they pay only when they have 
books out. 

California State Mining Bureau Library and John Hays 
Hammond Public Mining Library. In the offices of the State 
Mining Bureau, Ferry building, foot of Market street. Refer- 
ence only. Open to the public, free, every day but Sundays 
and holidays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Closed at 12 m. Sat- 
urdays. 

Bibliotheque Francaise. 126 Post street, over the Pig 'n* 
Whistle. Ouverte tous les Jours Excepte les Dimanches et 
Jours Feries de 2 h. a. 6 h. de I'apres-midi, et de 8 h. a. 10 h. 
du Soir. 

Largest collection of French books in this country. Before 
the fire it had 25,000 volumes, and now has nearly 12,000. 
Free to visitors, and on the tables will be found the leading 
French magazines and newspapers. The circulating privilege 
is obtained on payment of $1.00 entrance fee, and 50 cents a 
month thereafter. Books may be kept 1 5 days and renewed 



Libraries 1 95 

for a like period. The library dates from 1876, when it was 
founded with a surplus from subscriptions raised among the 
French people of San Francisco for the assistance of France 
in the Franco-Prussian war. 

Library^ of the Polish Society of California. At 2091 Fif- 
teenth street. Open Saturdays, from 7 to 8 p. m. Circulating. 
Visitors welcome. About 500 volumes in Polish and English. 

San Francisco Law Library. Fourth floor temporary City 
Hall, Eighth and Market streets. Open week days from 9 
a. m. to 10:45 p. m., and Sundays from 10:30 a. m. to 
4:30 p. m. ; closes on week days during court vacation at 
6 p. m. A free circulating and reference library of 27,000 
volumes, supported by municipal appropriation, and fees paid 
by litigants on suits filed in the Superior Court. 

Library of the Genealogical Society of California. In the 
Green Room of the Fairmont Hotel, first floor, at California 
and Mason streets. A reference library for members only; 
between three and four hundred volumes on biography, gen- 
ealogy and history. Open from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m. 

Library of Leland Stanford Junior University. At Palo 
Alto, Cal. 

Southern Pacific train leaving Third and Townsend depot, 
to Palo Alto, and trolley car from the station. 

Open during the university term from 8 a. m. to 1 p. m. ; 
during vacations, from 8:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. Closed 
Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Largely for reference, but 
has some books that may circulate. To those not connected 
with the university a fee of $5 a year is charged. The library 
has 1 75,000 volumes and is growing at the rate of about 
15,000 annually. Founded in 1891. 

Library of the University of California. At Berkeley, 
across the bay. 

Southern Pacific or Key Route ferry and suburban electric 
trains connecting. 



96 



Handbook for San Francisco 




A SAN FRANCISCO RESIDENCE PARK. 



Open during the term from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m. on week 
days; Saturdays from 8 a. m. to 12 m., and from 7 to 1 
p. m. ; Sundays from 1 a. m. to 4 p. m. Vacation hours 
are from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Free for reference. Circulating 
for professors and students. 

This library contains about 300,000 volumes, and grows 
at the rate of 15,000 a year. The new library building is a 
particularly beautiful composition of white California granite, 
recently completed at a cost of about $600,000, from funds 
bequeathed by Charles F. Doe of San Francisco. With its 
equipment the plant represents an investment of over $850,000. 
The main reading room is the second largest in the United 
States. Here is also the Bancroft Library of California and 
Pacific Coast History. This famous collection of books, 
pamphlets and original documents is housed in the same build- 
ing with the Library of the University of California, just to 
the left, as you enter. On its accumulation the historian Hubert 
Howe Bancroft of San Francisco expended over $400,000, 
and it is likely to remain for a long time the principal source 
of information for students of the history not only of California 
find the Pacific Coast, but of many other countries bordering on 



\ 

Libraries 197 



the Pacific. There are about 50,000 volumes, and it is open 
from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. 

Levi Cooper Lane Library of Medicine and Surgery. Web- 
ster and Sacramento streets. Open daily except Sundays from 
8:45 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. 

Sacramento street cable car, either from the Ferry, or by 
transfer from the Porvell street cable, changing at Sacramento 
and Powell streets. 

This is the library of the Department of Medicine of Leland 
Stanford Jr., University. It is the largest medical library west 
of Chicago, and the largest university medical library in the 
United States, containing 40,000 volumes at present. The 
building is a five-story structure, dedicated in November, 1912 
with the most improved equipment, and capacity for 1 20,000 
books. In the reading room are some very beautiful mural 
paintings by Arthur Matthews. The fees are $5 a year for 
reference use, and $ 1 for the circulating privilege, with life 
membership at $ 1 00. 

The library was founded and the building erected with 
funds provided by Dr. Levi Cooper Lane and Pauline C. 
Lane, his wife. 

Photographic Library. See California Camera Club, under 
"Clubs and Organizations." 

Library of the Commonrvealth Club. At 153 Kearny street. 
A good and growing collection of publications on political, 
economic and sociological questions. Club rooms open from 9 a. 
m. to 5 p. m., week days, except Saturdays, when they close 
at 3 p. m. 

Library of the Bar Association. Pacific Building, Market 
and Fourth streets. 



'^-^mti^ 



1 98 HandbooJf for San Francisco 

BOOK STORES, NEW AND OLD. 

Of good places to buy books in San Francisco these should 
be mentioned: 

The shop of Alexander M. Robertson, publisher of many 
works by California writers; at 222 Stockton street, corner of 
Union Square avenue, and facing Union Square. 

Paul Elder's, at 239 Grant avenue, near Sutter. Elder 
is active as a publisher. 

John Howell's, at 107 Grant avenue, near Geary. Howell 
is an importer of fine books and rare old ones. 

H. S. Crocker & Co., 565 Market. A large store with a 
large stock. 

John J. Newbegin's, at 31 1-315 Sutter. Newbegin is also 
an importer. 

Western Methodist Book Concern; 5-7 City Hall avenue. 

Westminster Book Store ; 400 Sutter street, corner of Stock- 
ton. 

The White House, department store, at Sutter street and 
Grant avenue, has a very large book department and its stock 
of foreign books is said to be the best in the United States. 

Good book departments are also to be found in the Em- 
porium, on the south side of Market street between Fourth 
and Fifth, and at Hale Bros', at the corner of Market and 
Fifth streets. 

The city lost a wealth of old libraries in the fire, but still 
a few find their way into the hands of the second hand book 
dealers, whose stocks have recently begun to exhibit their former 
variety. Californiana is growing scarce, but occasionally a 
good bit rewards a prowl among the old-book stores. Some 
of the best-known of the second-hand shops and dealers are: 

The Holmes Company, 70 Third street, south of Market, 
with another store at 22 1 Market. 

Wellendorf Book Company, 1 035 Market, near Sixth. Old 
and new books. 



The Press [99 

King's Book Store, 1716 Market, near Gough. 

King Bros., new and second-hand 1182 Market, be- 
tween Jones and Marshall Square. 

J. H. Cain, 679 McAllister, near Gough. 

McDevitt's Book Omnorium, 1004 Fillmore, near McAl- 
lister. 

C. H. Ryder, Philadelphia Book Company. 1279 Golden 
Gate avenue, near Fillmore. 

San Francisco Occult Book Company, new and second-hand, 
1141 Polk, near Sutter. 

French books can be found at the shop of Victor Martin 
and Charles Poulin, 664 Broadway, between Grant avenue 
and Stockton street, opposite the Liberty Theater, and at the 
shop kept by A. Pradels, 1111 Polk street, near Post. 

German books can be found at Richard Rieger's, 86 Fourth 
street, and 1320 Fillmore; and at Gustav Schenk's, 2007 
Fillmore, near Pine. 

Italian books are sold at the shop of A. Cavalli & Co., 263 
Columbus avenue, above Kearny, and by Unti & Perasso, at 
343 Columbus avenue, near Grant avenue. 

Spanish books are kept by Jose Sanchez, at 639 Vallejo 
street, near Grant avenue. 



THE PRESS. 

San Francisco has had, since its earliest history, a distin- 
guished press. Its tone has been metropolitan from the begin- 
ning, but it has also been something more. Vitalizing con- 
tacts with new conditions, and freedom from conventional re- 
straints, operated to produced journalists of originality, who 
acquired national and international reputation. 

This was the starting point of such writers and newspaper 
workers as Ambrose Bierce, Frank Bailey Millard, Arthur 
McEwen, W. C. Morrow, Charles Michaelson, Miriam Mich- 
aelson, Charles Dryden, Philip A. Roche, Ned Townsend of 



200 Handbook for San Francisco 

Chimmie Fadden fame, James Hopper, Rufus Steele, Daven- 
port and Edgren, the cartoonists, Earl Ashley Walcott, the 
novelist, J. O'Hara Cosgrave, who was editor of the San 
Francisco "Wave" when Frank Norris made it the laboratory 
of his early efforts, William Melony, "Bob" Davis, Henry C. 
Rawley, Alice Rix, Annie Laurie, Helen Dare, Kathleen 
Norris, Adele Brooks; Swinnerton, "Tad," Maynard Dixon 
and Grant Wallace, the illustrators; Lincoln Steffens and Sam- 
uel E. Moffett, the publicists, Chester Bailey Fernald, Will and 
Wallace Irwin, Harrison Fisher, the illustrator, and "Bud" 
Fisher, creator of "Mutt and Jeff." There were many more; 
humorists, essayists on the pressing and vital topics of the day, 
from Bret Harte and Mark Twain to Edward F. Cahill, "Our 
Candid Friend." 

Today, this city is an important publishing center, with 
over 1 50 daily, weekly and monthly publications, representing 
practically all leading languages; Greek, Hebrew, Italian, Chi- 
nese, French, German, Russian, Polish. We can not list them 
?11, but the leading English publications are the 

San Francisco Call; afternoon, now published from the 
Claus Spreckels building at Third and Market streets. This was 
recently changed to an afternoon paper. Until the change was 
made it was the oldest San Francisco morning paper. Mark 
Twain was one of its reporters during his San Francisco days. 

San Francisco Chronicle; morning, published at Market and 
Kearny streets. Founded by Charles and M. H. de Young. 
Some famous writers have served it. Will Irwin was its Sun- 
day editor for a time, and so was Rufus Steele, now holding 
the same position on the Call. John P. Young, the well-known 
publicist, is its managing editor, and the noted literary critic, 
George Hamlin Fitch, contributes its widely read book reviews. 

San Francisco Examiner; morning, published at Market, 
Kearny and Third streets. This was the first Hearst paper in 
the United States. A^mbrose Bierce contributed his famous 
column of "Prattle" to its Sunday numbers for several years, 
Samuel E. Moffett was one of its editorial writers, and T. T. 



V 



he Press 201 

Williams one of its leading spirits. Arthur McEwen and W. 
C. Morrow, the author, were part of its staff, as well as Frank 
Bailey Millard, Earl Ashley Walcott, and Wallace Irwin. 

Bulletin; afternoon, published at 767 Market street. This 
is the oldest existing San Francisco newspaper, having been 
founded in 1855 by James King of William, whose murder 
the following year led to the uprising of the Vigilantes and 
made much early history. 

San Francisco Evening Post; afternoon, published at 727 
Market street. The single tax movement in America origin- 
ated with its founder, Henry George, author of "Progress and 
Poverty," who established the paper in 1879. 

News; afternoon, pubhshed at 340 Ninth street. A penny 
paper of the Scripps-McRae group. 

Commercial News, morning, published at 330 Sansome 
street. Shipping and marine intelligence and financial news. 

Journal of Commerce, afternoon, published at 1 65 Jessie 
street, corner of Annie. Commercial, financial, shipping, mu- 
nicipal and general news. 

Municipal Record, published every Thursday by the Board 
of Supervisors at the City Hall, 1231 Market street, for the 
purpose of furnishing information concerning public municipal 
improvements and the work of the several municipal depart- 
ments. 

Nervs Bureau, issued during the noon hour from 88 First 
street, containing brief presentations of important news, espe- 
cially financial, for business men at their desks. 

Recorder, morning, published at 28 Montgomery street. 
Contains the court calendars, important Supreme court deci- 
sions, and other information of value to attorneys, together with 
a page of general news and a column of editorial. 

Argonaut, weekly, published at 207 Powell street; editorial 
comment, short stories, selected verse and European corre- 
spondence. Founded in 1877 by Fred M. Somers and Frank 
Pixley. The Argonaut is the leading literary weekly of the 
West, and one of the foremost in the country. It circulates in 



202 Handbook for San Francisco 

every civilized land. Almost every San Francisco writer that 
has risen to distinction since its founding has sought the public 
through its columns, and we find among them such names as 
Gertrude Atherton, Frank Norris, W. C. Morrow, Harry 
Dam, E. W. Townsend, Jerome A. Hart, Ambrose Bierce, 
Frank Bailey Millard and John Fleming Wilson. 

Wasp, weekly, 121 Second street; politics, society, finance, 
art and theatrical reviews. This was the first paper in the 
United States to run colored cartoons. 

Nervs Letter, weekly, 2 1 Sutter street. Oldest existing 
weekly in San Francisco. Founded in 1856. Political com- 
ment, financial, society and theatrical news. 

Town Talk, weekly, 88 First street. Current comment on 
the amusements and social doings of the city, with interesting 
sketches of prominent persons. 

Among magazines there are the 

Overland Monthly, 21 Sutter street; founded by Bret Harte 
and built up by the work of many distinguished contributors. 
The Overland first published "The Luck of Roaring Camp" 
and "The Heathen Chinee." Joaquin Miller wrote for it, and 
in its pages first appeared parts of Mark Twain's "Innocents 
Abroad." 

Sunset Magazine; monthly, published at 448 Fourth street. 
Devoted to the literary exploitation of the beauties and resources 
of California and the West. Visitors will find in its pages 
most attractive descriptive matter on California, accompanied 
by fine colored illustrations. Sunset has had a remarkable 
career. Beginning as a "house organ" of the Southern Pacific 
Railroad Company it was developed by judicious management, 
under the editorship of the late Charles S. Aiken, into a maga- 
zine of the best type, appealing to a wide and general interest. 
It is doubtful if there is another publication in the West that 
has done so much to make the West known to the world. 

In addition there is a number of religious journals, such as 
the Pacific Unitarian, the Pacific Presbyterian, the Monitor 
and the Leader (Catholic) , the Hebrew, and Emanu El (Jew- 



Bankh and Finance 203 



ish), the Pacific (Congregational), the Pacific Churchman 
(EpiscopaHan), the Pacific Christian (Christian church), and 
the Pacific Methodist Advocate, and fraternal and trade publi- 
cations too numerous to mention here. 



BANKS AND FINANCE. 

Both the cosmopolitan character and the financial strength 
of San Francisco appear in its banks. Here are British, 
French, Italian, Portuguese, German, Chinese and Japanese 
financial institutions. There were in this city at the beginning 
1913, 37 banks with 9 branches, showing a total capital, 
surplus and undivided profits of $80,727,948. The savings 
deposits of Dec. 31st, 1912, amounted to $189,714,076, the 
largest on record, and the depositors numbered over half the 
population. On Feb. 10th, 1913, the deposits had grown 
to $202,295,143. 

The aggregate resources of three of the national banks of 
San Francisco are larger than the aggregate resources of all 
the national banks in any one of 30 states. In population, 
San Francisco stands eleventh, according to the census of 
1910, but in aggregate resources of all her national banks, she 
ranks sixth among the cities of the country, being exceeded in 
this respect only by New York, Chicago, Boston, Philadelphia 
and Pittsburg. At this writing clearings run over $50,000,000 
a week, and for 1912 almost equalled the combined clearings 
of the next largest six cities of the Pacific Coast. Comparative 
clearings of these cities for 1912 were as follows : 

San Diego $ 131,265,154 

Oakland 192,71 1,075 

Tacoma 218,941,896 

Portland 596,327,185 

Seattle 602,430,660 

Los Angeles 1,167,782,516 

Total $2,909,438,486 

San Francisco $2,677,561,952 



204 Handboof( for San Francisco 

Clearings for 1913 thus far show San Francisco to be the 
most important banking center west of Kansas City, and eighth 
among the cities of the country. 

The underwriting power of San Francisco has grown tre- 
mendously in the past few years as one success after another 
has demonstrated the profitable nature of California develop- 
ment enterprises when properly conceived and executed. In 
1912 this city stood third in the United States in the transac- 
tions of its bond market, being exceeded in this respect only 
by New York and Baltimore. 

The San Francisco Chapter of the American Institute of 
Banf(ing (section of the American Bankers' Association) is in 
the eleventh year of its existence and has its office and library 
at 1 325 First National Bank Building, Post and Montgomery 
streets. 

Consonant with their financial strength and the opportunities 
presented by the destruction of their old buildmgs, the down- 
town banks of San Francisco are palatially and beautifully 
housed. Every visitor should make the round of the banks, 
or at least look in upon them when passing, for they constitute 
one of the most artistic features of the rebuilt city. 

Foremost historically, in the financial section of the city, is 
the Bank of California, National Association, at California 
and Sansome streets. 

This institution was founded in 1 864 by William C. Ral- 
ston and D. O. Mills, and for many years was the most active 
factor in the financing of ore milling and other operations 
along the famous Comstock lode, in Nevada. 

The bank dominated the financial situation in the city during 
the Comstock mining days of the "sixties" and "seventies," 
and is today the leading financial institution of the West. In 
1912 its total assets were nearly sixty millions. The building 
is imposing and beautiful. Notice its enormous columns and 
the color harmonies of its interior. 

The Wells Fargo Nevada National Bank, at the northeast 
corner of Market and Montgomery streets, is another historic 



Banks and Finance 205 



institution of the city, one of its elements, the Nevada Bank, 
having been founded during the bonanza days of the great 
Comstock operators. Flood & O'Brien, and Mackay & Fair. 
It long occupied the famous old Nevada block on Montgomery 
street at the corner of Pine, destroyed by the fire of 1 906. 

First National Bank of San Francisco, Montgomery and 
Post streets. The oldest national bank in California. Its 
beautiful building stands on the site of the old Masonic Tem- 
ple. 

Crocker National Bank of San Francisco, Post and Market 
streets. The building is particularly fine. It survived the 
fire, structurally unharmed, but the interior was burned out 
and had to be renewed. 

Merchants National Bank^ at the corner of Market and 
New Montgomery streets. Formerly the Western Metropolis 
National Bank. 

The Mutual Savings Bank is at 706 Market street, just 
above Kearny. 

The Union Trust Company of San Francisco formerly occu- 
pied the location of the Wells Fargo Nevada National Bank, 
and erected its present building at Grant avenue and Market 
streets after the fire. This is one of the chief ornaments of 
Market street. 

Savings Union Bank and Trust Company, Grant avenue 
and O'Farrell streets. The pediment was designed by Haig 
Patigan. Notice the bronze doors, designed by Arthur 
Matthews, their panels representing the Indian, the Spaniard, 
the American and the spirit of the new San Francisco. The 
reception room of the safe deposit department is decorated with 
a mural painting of St. Francis, also by Matthews. 

The Humboldt Savings Bank occupies its own building, an 
1 8-story structure, which was in course of erection at the 
time of the fire and was completed immediately afterward, at 
783 Market street. 

Farther up Market street, at its junction with McAllister 
and Jones, is the 



206 



Handbook for San Francisco 



Hibernia Savings and Loan Society. This is one of the 
city's oldest and most substantial organizations engaged in the 
savings bank business. The conspicuous feature of the exterior 
is the dome surmounting the McAllister and Jones street corner, 
which is of handsome design and is covered with gold leaf. 
The classic composition of its single story is most beautiful and 
effective. 




INTERIOR OF A SAN FRANCISCO BANK. 

The German Savings and Loan Society^, at 526 California 
street between Montgomery and Kearny, is one of the city's 
important savings institutions and its interior decoration scheme, 
in dim gold and old ivory tones, is very attractive. 

The Anglo and London Paris National Bank, at the corner 
of Sansome and Sutter streets, is one of the city's gems of 
architecture, a remarkably harmonious and beautiful composi- 
tion, both in proportions and embellishment. 



Banks and Finance 207 



The Bank of Daniel Me-^er, at 224 Pine street, is an old 
institution that has had much to do with State development. 

The International Banking Corporation, in the Mills build- 
ing, corner of Bush and Montgomery streets, is the San Fran- 
cisco branch of the main organization, through which it has 
many Oriental connections. 

The Italian banks, in the vicinity of Montgomery street and 
Columbus avenue, are among the finest in the city. These are: 

Bank of Italy, at Montgomery and Clay streets. The build- 
ing is a stately structure strictly Italian in feeling, with an 
interior finished in Sienna marble. This bank has a branch at 
Mason and Market streets, in the heart of the business district. 

The Italian American Bank is at Montgomery and Sacra- 
mento streets. This is a fine building in Italian renaissance 
style. The two granite columns in front are the largest and 
tallest monolithic columns in San Francisco. This is the only 
representative on the coast of the Banco di Napoli. 

Fugazi Banca Popolare Operaia Italiana. Gore of Mont- 
gomery street and Columbus avenue. The building is very 
handsome, the interior finish being of Grecian marble. 

The Mercantile Trust Company of San Francisco and Mer- 
cantile National Bank of San Francisco occupy a beautiful 
building opposite the Merchants' Exchange, at 464 California 
street, near Montgomery. 

The French Bank of Savings, at 1 08 Sutter street, does a 
commercial business also. It is the largest French savings bank 
outside of France. 

The Canadian Bank of Commerce is at California and 
Leidesdorff streets. This is a branch of the Canadian Bank of 
Commerce of Toronto. 

Bank of British North America, Battery and California 
streets. The American head office of this bank is at Montreal, 
and the court of directors is at London. 

The Mission Bank is at Sixteenth street and Julian avenue, 
between Mission and Valencia streets. 



208 Handbook for San Francisco 

The Canton Bank, ^ Chinese institution, is at 653 Kearny 
street. 

The Yokohama Specie Bank is situated at the corner of 
Sansome and Commercial streets. 

Other banks and trust companies of San Francisco are the 

American National Bank of San Francisco, Merchants' 
Exchange building, California and Leidesdorff streets. 

California Savings and Loan Society, 801 Van Ness avenue. 

Columbus Savings and Loan Society, 700 Montgomery 
street. 

Pacific States Savings and Loan Society, 550 California 
street. 

Portuguese-American Bank of San Francisco, Front and 
Commercial streets. 

Seaboard National Bank, Market and Steuart streets. 

Security Savings Bank, 3 1 6 Montgomery. 

Anglo California Trust Company, Market and Sansome. 

Donohoe, Kelly Banking Company, Montgomery and Sutter. 

First Federal Trust Company, Post and Montgomery. 

Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, 401 Mont- 
gomery. 

Marine Trust and Savings Bank, 100 Market. 

Swiss- American Bank, 12 Sansome street. 



SOME FRATERNAL AND ASSOCIATION 
BUILDINGS. 

In the rebuilding of San Francisco it became a matter of 
local pride with associations and fraternal orders to replace 
their old homes in the manner most creditable to the city. 
Among directors and boards of trustees there reigned the spirit 
of civic renaissance, a spirit that was one with the past, but 
unhampered by it, and that was determined on taking every 
advantage of this exceptional opportunity to create anew. As 
a result, the city is graced with some of the finest semi-public 



Some Fraternal Buildings 209 

buildings to be found, structures embodying original design, 
and new ideas in adornment as well as in facilities for serving 
their various objects. One of the few buildings in America 
comparable to some of the good buildings in Europe is the 
Masonic Temple at Oak street and Van Ness avenue. 

From the corner of its broad, white walls a canopied King 
Solomon looks down upon the modern city traffic. It is by 
Adolph Alexander Weinman, the New York sculptor. The 
canopy itself is adorned with sculptured angels, and with 
enshrined allegorical figures, of which the man with the capital 
represents the Builder; the one with the book. Social Order; 
the one with the lyre. Reverence for the Beauty of the World; 
the one with his hands on his breast, Reverence for the Mys- 
tery of the Heavens. These are by Ralph Stadpole of San 
Francisco. There are six figures, but two are duplicates. 

The dominating feature of the exterior is the machicolated 
parapet, carried around the top instead of a cornice. It is in 
the style of the one on the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio of 
Florence, and other structures of that period, and has a medie- 
val militant suggestion, as of the piety and valor of the Temple 
Knights whose gilded shields hang on the face of it. 

The entrance is through a noble portal, under a semi-circular 
hood supported on corbels formed by the stone figures of lions. 
Under the ornate receding arches the tympanum shows an 
allegory in relief, also by Weinman, consisting of three figures 
of Charity, Fortitude and Truth. Beneath, the lintel bears a 
row of nine smaller figures, by Stadpole, representing David, 
Abraham, St. John the Divine, Nathan the prophet, Moses, 
Aaron, St. John the Baptist, Joseph, and Jonathan. 

The principal feature of the interior is the great Commandery 
Hall, 60 feet wide, 72 feet long, and rising from the level of 
the third story 85 feet to the summit of the dome that one can 
see from almost every hill-top in the city. The wall spaces 
are decorated with mural paintings by Arthur Matthews. 



2 1 Handbook for San Francisco 

The architects of the Masonic Temple were Bliss & Faville. 

Among other fine buildings of this semi-public character are 
Scottish Rite Temple, Van Ness avenue and Sutter street; Odd 
Fellows Hall, Seventh and Market; Knights of Columbus Hall, 
150 Golden Gate avenue; building of the Native Sons of the 
Golden West, 430 Mason street; German House, Polk and 
Turk streets; Elks Hall, 540 Powell street. 

The Young Mens Christian Association has one of the finest 
buildings of its kind in the world, at Golden Gate avenue and 
Leavenworth streets. Here is a large gymnasium with a salt 
water swimming tank, and there are bowling alleys, handball 
courts, a billiard room and facilities for all sorts of social gath- 
erings and receptions. 

The Young Women's Christian Association has its home at 
1 249 to I 259 O'Farrell street, where it maintains a boarding 
home for young business women, and an employment bureau. 
To reach it 

Take an^ Market street car from the Ferry to Fourth and 
Ellis streets, transfer to Line No. 20 or 21 , get off at Cough 
and O'Farrell and rvalk half a block west. From Third and 
Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to 
Cough and walk half a block west. 

Travelers' Aid secretaries of the Y. W. C. A. meet steam- 
ers and trains. 

The Young Mens Institute has its home at 92 Sanchez 
street. 

The Independent Order B'nai B'rith, rebuilt on its old site 
after the fire, at 1 49 Eddy street, between Mason and Taylor, 
a fine building that is an ornament to the neighborhood. 



EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES. 

Early San Franciscans that wished to put their sons in col- 
lege used to send them to Honolulu, but California has probably 
advanced more rapidly in the field of education than any other 



Educational Facilities 211 

phase of development, and ranks today in this respect with 
the most progressive eastern states. The disbursement of State 
revenue for this purpose is heavier than for all other items com- 
bined; over $15,000,000 for the biennial period 1913-14. 

The two great universities and one women's college of the 
Pacific Coast are situated in suburbs of San Francisco, while 
in the city itself the best of instruction can be obtained in 
almost everything teachable, from music to navigation. Instruc- 
tion in the universities is free to citizens of the State. 

The public free school system of San Francisco is extensive 
and efficient, and includes four high schools whose graduates 
can matriculate at the universities without other examination. 
This was the first city in the United States to establish a free 
school of navigation. 

There is a fine High School of Commerce. The State Nor- 
mal School at San Francisco is conducted by one of the most 
progressive educators in the country. The Cogswell Polytech- 
nic College, the Wilmerding School of Industrial Arts and 
the California School of Mechanical Arts, (endowed by James 
Lick), and the Lux School of Industrial Training for Girls, 
are unexcelled. These are all free schools. 

There are business colleges, dramatic schools, art schools, 
and a noted Conservatory of Music. And in the suburbs are 
excellent academies such as the Belmont School for Boys, at 
Belmont, the Mt. Tamalpais Military Academy, near San 
Rafael; St. Matthew's Military School, at Burlingame, and 
many fine schools and seminaries for young ladies. 

The professional schools of San Francisco hold high rank. 
Among them are: 

Hastings College of the LaTV, 166 Geary street; the law 
department of the University of California. 

Hahnemann Medical College of the Pacific, Sacramento 
and Maple streets; homeopathic. 

* Leland Stanford Junior University Department of Medicine, 
(formerly Cooper Medical College), at Sacramento and Web- 



2 1 2 Handbook for San Francisco 

ster streets, with the largest universit}' medical library in the 
country. 

University of California Medical department and Hospital 
(formerly Toland Medical College), at Affiliated Colleges, 
Parnassus avenue, opposite Second avenue. Here are also 
the departments of Dentistry and Pharmacy. 

College of Physicians and Surgeons, 344 Fourteenth street; 
with Dentistry and Pharmacy departments. 

Polyclinic Post Graduate Medical Department of the Uni- 
versity of California, 443 Fillmore street. 



UNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES. 

University of California. At Berkeley, Alameda county; 
across the bay from San Francisco, and about a 45 minute 
ride by ferry and suburban electric train. To reach it, 

Taf^e Southern Pacific ferry or Key System ferry, at the foot 
of Market street, and Berkeley train at the pier on the opposite 
side of the bay. 

The University of California is one of the foremost Ameri- 
can institutions of learning. Its graduate astronomical depart- 
ment is the Lick Observatory on Mt. Hamilton, where Bernard 
discovered the fifth satellite of Jupiter. Its College of Agri- 
culture was the first agricultural experiment station established 
in this country, and enlisted the services of such eminent stu- 
dents of the subject as E. W. Hilgard, long recognized as 
the world's greatest authority on soils, and E. J. Wickson, a 
leader and an authority in horticulture. The Le Conte broth- 
ers, John famous as a physicist, and Joseph as a geologist and 
one of the earliest teachers of evolution, spent their productive 
years in the faculty of this university. Frank Norris, the nov- 
elist, Samuel E. Moffett, the publicist, and Josiah Royce, the 
philosopher, studied here, and Edward Rowland Sill, the 
"poet's poet," was an instructor in the English department. 
Jacques Loeb, the great biologist, was a member of the faculty. 



Universities and Colleges 



213 



All over the world — in Alaska, China, South Africa — 
can be found the graduate engineers of its famous school of 
mines. 

Tuition is free to residents of California, the institution 
being supported by the state and by private endowments. Non- 
residents of the state pay $10 half-yearly. Expenses in the 
college town of Berkeley are comparatively light. 




UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, BERKELEY. 

The university is coeducational. 

In 1912-13 the enrollment aggregated 6,457, the largest 
in the country with the single exception of Columbia. 

The Summer School at the University of Cahfornia is the 
largest of its kind, and it attracts more than two thousand stu- 
dents every year, from all parts of the United States. Among 
the teachers have been such men as Svant A. Arrhenius of 
Stockholm; Boltzmann, the Austrian scientist; Hugo De Vries 
of Amsterdam; John Adam of the University of London; 
Josiah Royce, Frederick Jackson Turner, Albert Bushnell 



214 Handbook for San Francisco 

Hart, and Barrett Wendell of Harvard; Spaeth and Axon of 
Princeton; William Lyon Phelps of Yale. 

The tuition fee is $15, and there are laboratory fees in 
some of the courses. 

The site of the University is a noble expanse of 520 acres 
in the rolling hills of Berkeley, looking over the Bay of San 
Francisco. The town takes its name from the institution, and 
the institution from the great transcendentalist, the Bishop of 
Cloyne. ' ] 

A day can be spent most profitably and enjoyably, strolling 
amid the giant oaks of the campus, some of them centuries old, 
and visiting the library and collections and the famous Hearst 
Greek Theater. (See Berkeley, in index.) 

Leland Stanford Junior University. At Palo Alto, San 
Mateo county, Cal,, 30 miles south of San Francisco. A visit 
there makes a fine day's outing. To reach it 

Take Southern Pacific train on the Coast Division, at Third 
end ToTvnsend depot. There are 21 trains on week da\)s and 
1 5 on Sundays, and the trip takes about an hour and five min- 
utes. 

This institution is a point of pride with Californians, and 
although younger than the University of California it occu- 
pies an equally erninenl position in the world of education. 
Its great endowment of $25,000,000 has enabled it to attract 
famous teachers. Its teaching stafF is one of the strongest in 
the country. It is coeducational, but the number of women 
students is limited to 500. 

The university is located on the "Palo Alto Farm" of the 
late Senator Leland Stanford, by whom and by his wife, Jane 
Lathrop Stanford, it was endowed in memory of Leland Stan- 
ford Jr., who died in his sixteenth year. 

The grounds consist of over 7,000 acres, partly rising into 
the foothills of the Santa Clara range. 

All the subjects of a full college course are offered here, 
and tuition is free except for an Incidental and Guild fee of 



Universities and Colleges 



215 



$17 half yearly, and charges in the departments of law and 
medicine. 

An adaptation of the mission style of architecture has been 
employed on the campus with fine effect. The Memorial 
Church bears on pediment and interior walls, some of the most 
beautiful mosaics in the world. 




LELAND STANFORD JUNIOR UNIVERSITY. 



The Leland Stanford Junior Museum, containing the arch- 
eological and art collections of the university, is situated a 
quarter of a mile north and a little west of the Quadrangles. 
It grew from the collection begun by Leland Stanford, Jr. 
Here is preserved the skeleton of the great sire of trotting horses. 
Electioneer, of much interest to breeders. There are also in- 
teresting collections of Chinese and Japanese art, and the Di 
Cesnola collection of Greek and Roman pottery. 

In 191 1-12 the number of students enrolled was 1774, of 
whom 2 1 6 were graduate students. 



216 



HandbooI( for San Francisco 



California is fortunate in having two such universities, each 
of which is a stimulus to the other. 

Mills College (formerly Mills Seminary). Situated in the 
foothill region east of Oakland, about an hour's ride from San 
Francisco. To reach it. 

Take Southern Pacific jerry at the foot of Market street, 
for Alameda pier, and there change to train marked ''Oakland 




CAMPANILE AT JIILLS COLLEGE, OAKLAND. 

Fourteenth 5/." (on a red disk) ^hich runs to Fourteenth and 
Franklin streets, Oakland. At Thirteenth and Franklin, a 
block south, take the Mills College car (trolley^). Or, take 
/Cep Sy^stem ferry, foot of Market street, and electric train on 
the Key System pier, for Trvelfth and Broadway, Oakland. 
Remain on this car until it gets to First avenue, and there 
change to Mills College car. 



Universities and Colleges 2 1 7 

Mills is the only college exclusively for women, west of the 
Rocky Mountains. Its students come from the entire west; 
from British Columbia to San Diego; from Chicago to Hon- 
olulu and Japan. Matriculation requirements are the same as 
for the University of California and Stanford. 

The college grounds, secluded, yet accessible, comprise about 
1 50 acres of charming country, with green lawns, palms, rose 
gardens, fine woodland and beautiful streams. 

The institution is the outgrowth of Mills Seminary, estab- 
lished at Seminary Park, by Rev. Cyrus R. Mills and Mrs. 
Susan L. Mills in 1871, and modelled on the plan of Mount 
Holyoke. Dr. Mills and his wife brought the institution from 
Benicia, where it had existed as a Young Ladies' Seminary 
since 1852. It became Mills College in 1911. As such, 
it is recognized the country over as a standard college and was 
classed by the United States Commissioner of Education in 
his report for 1910 among the leading sixteen women's col- 
leges. 

University of St. Ignatius, at 2211 Hayes street, corner of 
Shrader, opposite St. Mary's Hospital. 
Ha})es and Ellis car. Line No. 21. 

This institution has been in temporary quarters since the 
great fire, but will soon build at Fulton and Parker avenues, 
on the block where St. Ignatius church is now rising. It was 
founded in 1855 and empowered by the state to confer uni- 
versity degrees in 1 859. 

Only male students are admitted, and these only as day 
scholars. Tuition, $50 or $80 a year, according to course. 

St. Mar})'s College (conducted by the Brothers of the 
Christian Schools), Broadway, between Hawthorne and Or- 
chard streets, Oakland. 

Take Southern Pacific ferr^, foot of Market street, and elec- 
tric train to Seventh and Broadway, Oakland. There take 
trolley car running out Broadway. Or take Key System ferry 



2 1 8 Handbook for San Francisco 

and Oakland train n>ith red sign for Trveniy-second and Broad- 
way, and there take Broadrva'^ trolle'y. 

St. Mary's is empowered to confer all academic degrees, 
and is in fact a university without the title. Instruction, board 
and lodging are at the rate of $1 75 per semester. 

University of Santa Clara. In the Santa Clara valley, 44 
miles south of San Francisco and adjacent to the old mission 
town of Santa Clara ; a ride of about an hour and thirty-five 
minutes. 

Southern Pacific train on Coast Division, to Santa Clara 
station. 

This is the oldest chartered institution of learning in the 
West, having been founded by the Franciscan fathers De La 
Pena and Murguia on January 12, 1 777. 

Resident students pay at the rate of $200 per half year 
term, with a matriculation fee of $15, payable but once, and 
an athletic fee of $2.50 per term. This covers board, lodging, 
tuition and laundry. Non-resident fees are less, in proportion. 



HOSPITALS AND SANATORIA. 

San Francisco, since early days, has taken high rank for 
the skill of its physicians and the quality of its medical and 
surgical facilities. Dentistry and oral surgery have been 
brought to a high stage of development. Persons requiring 
surgical operations come to San Francisco from the entire west 
coast of North and South America. 

Fine hospital buildings, new, sanitary, and with every mod- 
ern appliance, have been erected in large numbers since the 
fire, and under the building laws of the city are, of necessity, of 
th best modern steel and fire-proof construction. There are 
few important hospitals in the city are are more than seven 
years old, and when the owners of the new structures planned 
them they were able to avail themselves of the best in equip- 



Hospitals and Sanatoria 219 

ment and arrangement that human experience could suggest. 
Space will not permit us to list all in the city, but these are 
among the leading institutions of the kind: 

Adler Sanatorium, northeast corner of Van Ness avenue 
and Broadway. 

Children's Hospital, Alexander Maternity Cottage, Train- 
ing School for Nurses. At 3700 California street, corner of 
Maple. 

C//\j and County Hospital. Occupies the block bounded 
by Potrero avenue and Twenty-second, Twenty-third and Ver- 
mont streets. 

This hospital cost $2,000,000 to construct, is entirely new, 
and is probably the finest municipal institution of its kind. 

Florence N. Ward Sanatorium. At 1195 Bush street, cor- 
ner of Hyde. 

French Hospital, "Maison de Sante de la Societe Francaise 
de Bienfaisance Mutuelle." Geary street (Point Lobos avenue) 
between Fifth and Sixth avenues. 

German Hospital. Fourteenth and Noe streets. 

Hahnemann Hospital. Northeast corner of California and 
Maple streets. 

Lane Hospital. Clay and Webster streets. X-ray, clinical 
and pathological laboratories under direction of the medical 
department of Leland Stanford Junior University. 

Letterman General Hospital. (United States Army) Pre- 
sidio military reservation. 

This is the largest American army hospital, and cost approx- 
imately half a million dollars. There is bed capacity for 500, 
and the accommodations can be expanded to take care of 
1,000. 

McNutt Hospital, at 1055 Pine street, between Jones and 
Taylor. 

Morton Hospital. At 775 Cole street. 

Employes of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railway 
needing hospital services in San Francisco are accommodated 
here. 



220 Handbook for San Francisco 

Mount Zion Hospital. At 2341 Sutter street, near Divisa- 
dero. A new building is in course of construction at Post and 
Scott streets. 

5^ Francis Hospital. Bush and Hyde streets. 
St. Joseph's Hospital. Park Hill and Buena Vista avenues. 
Conducted by the Franciscan Sisters of the Sacred Heart. 
5/. Lukes Hospital. Twenty-seventh and Valencia streets. 
St. Marys Hospital. Hayes and Stanyan streets, opposite 
the east end of Golden Gate Park. Conducted by the Sisters 
of Mercy. 

Saint Winifred's Hospital. At 1 065 Sutter street, between 
Hyde and Larkin. 

Southern Pacific Hospital. At Fell and Baker streets. 

Exclusively for employes of the Southern Pacific railroad. 
One of the best railroad hospitals ever built. 

Trinity Hospital. At 1 500 Page street, corner of Masonic 
avenue. 

United States Marine Hospital. On the Marine Hospital 
reservation adjoining the Presidio of San Francisco. For the 
care and treatment of seamen from the Merchant Marine. 

University of California Hospital. Second and Parnassus 
avenues. 

This is the hospital of the Affiliated Colleges of the Uni- 
versity of California. 

Five emergency hospitals are maintained by the municipality 
in different parts of the city. They are located as follows: 

Central Emergency Hospital. Stevenson street, near Eighth. 

Harbor Emergency Hospital. No. 7 Clay street. 

Park Emergency Hospital. Stanyan street near Waller, 
close to the Haight street entrance to Golden Gate Park. 

Potrero Emergency Hospital. 1 1 52 Kentucky street. 

Mission Emergency Hospital. Twenty-third street and Po- 
trero avenue. 



lelegraph and Express Offices 22 1 

TELEGRAPH, CABLE AND EXPRESS OFFICES. 

Western Union Telegraph Co. Main office. Pine and Mont- 
gomery. Messages can be telephoned in by calling for "West- 
ern Union." Always open. 

American District Telegraph Company messengers furnished 
at all Western Union offices. 

Federal Telegraph Co., Merchants' Exchange building; 9 
a. m. to 5 :30 p. m. 

I 49 Montgomery. 7 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; Sundays 1 a. m 
to 2 p. m., and 4 p. m. to 8 p. m. 

Marconi Wireless Telegraph Co. of America, Merchants' 
Exchange building. Office 8:30 to 5:30. Station always 
open. 

Postal Telegraph Cable Co., N. E. corner Market and Bat- 
tery (main office). Always open. 



EXPRESS OFFICES. 

Adams Express Co. Tracing, delivery and claim depart- 
ment, 54 Post street. Wagon and call department. Ferry 
building. Money orders, travelers' checks, foreign postal remit- 
tances, money paid by telegraph. 

Globe Express Co. Tracing, delivery and claim department, 
54 Post street. General Superintendent's office. Mills building. 
Wagon and call department. Ferry building. Money orders, 
travelers' checks, foreign postal remittances, money paid by 
telegraph. 

Wells Fargo & Company. Main office. Second and Mis- 
sion streets. Money orders, travelers' checks, foreign postal 
remittances, money paid by telegraph. 



222 Handbook for San Francisco 

SAN FRANCISCO'S PRINCIPAL STEAMSHIP 
CONNECTIONS. 

PASSENGERS AND FREIGHT. 

Alaska Pacific Steamship Company. For Seattle, Tacoma 
and Alaska. Howard street wharf. Ticket office, 654 
Market. 

Independent Steamship Company. For San Pedro. How- 
ard street wharf. Ticket office, 648 Market. 

Matson Navigation Company. For the Hawaiian Islands — 
Honolulu, Port Allen, Kahului, Kaanapoli and Hilo. Ticket 
office, 268 Market. 

North Pacific Steamship Company. For Portland, Eureka, 
San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo. 
Vallejo street wharf. Ticket office, 654 Market, and 3 
Market. 

Oceanic Steamship Company. For Honolulu, Pago Pago 
and Samoa, and Australia. California and Davis street. Tick- 
et office, 673 Market. 

Pacific Coast Steamship Company. For Los Angeles, Santa 
Barbara, San Diego, Seattle, Tacoma, Victoria, Vancouver 
and Alaska. 112 Market, 653 Market and Broadway 
wharf. 

Pacific Mail Steamship Company. For Honolulu, Japan 
and China, Mexico, Central America and Panama. Flood 
building. Market and Powell street. Ticket office, 722 Mar- 
ket. 

Pacific Navigation Company. For San Pedro and San 
Diego. Pacific street wharf. Ticket office, 680 Market. 

San Francisco and Portland Steamship Company. For Los 
Angeles, Portland and Astoria. Flood building, Powell and 
Market. 

Toyo Kisen Kaisha. For Honolulu, China and Japan. 
Merchants' National Bank building, 631 Market. 



Steamship Connections 223 



Union Steamship Company of New Zealand. Hind, Rolph 
& Co., agents. For Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia. 310 
California. Ticket office, 679 Market. 

FREIGHT. 

American-Hawaiian Steamship Company. For Puget Sound, 
Hawaii and Salina Cruz, Mexico. Greenwich street wharf 
and 3 1 Sansome. 

East Asiatic Companies, Ltd. From Europe via Straits of 
Magellan. Parrott & Co., agents, 320 California. 

Harrison Line. For Europe, Los Angeles, Portland, Seat- 
tle, Tacoma, Vancouver, Balfour, Guthrie & Co., agents. 
350 California. 

Kosmos Line. For South American ports and Europe, 1 58 
California street. 

Lucl^enbach Steamship Company. For New York, via 
Panama. Merchants' Exchange building, 431 California. 

Maple Leaf Line. For Europe. E. C. Evans & Sons, 
agents, 260 California. 

Pollard Steamship Company. For Grays Harbor, Tacoma, 
Seattle, Vancouver, Victoria. 244 California. 

Robert Dollar Company. For China and Japan. 1 60 
California. 

W. R. Grace & Co. (New York and Pacific Steamship 
Company). For New York, Seattle, Peru, Bolivia, Chile. 
California and Battery. 

In addition to the above there is a large number of lumber 
and other vessels running from San Francisco to various coast 
ports. 



CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 

In San Francisco, club life presents extraordinary distinc- 
tion and charm. Out of the marked individuality of the peo- 
ple and their socially stimulating environment have arisen such 
famous organizations as the Bohemian Club, the Family Club, 
the Commonwealth, the Olympic and others. 



224 Handbook for San Francisco 

We can not present a complete club directory, but may 
mention some of the most distinctive and interesting, as indi- 
cative of the social condition of the community. Lodge meet- 
ing notices of all the more important fraternal orders will be 
found in the daily papers. 

Pacific Union Club. Occupying what was once the brown 
stone mansion of the Comstock mining operator, James C. 
Flood, on California street between Mason and Cushman 
streets, across from the Fairmont hotel. There is probably no 
club in the world that has such a spacious and beautiful home. 

Bohemian Club. At Post and Taylor streets. This is the 
most famous club in San Francisco, and one of the really great 
clubs of the world. Its home in the city is embellished with 
sculptures by some of its members, and decorated with sketches 
in the gayest spirit, illustrative of Bohemian club life. 

The mid-summer grove-play of this organization, concluding 
with the "Cremation of Care," is world-famous. The festival 
is held in a magnificent 240-acre grove of California redwoods, 
which the club owns, near Monte Rio, in Sonoma county. 

Members camp here for two weeks, and the festival concludes 
with a dramatic performance staged amid great redwoods on 
a sloping hillside, forming a vast stage-set beyond the facilities 
of any theater to produce. The grove-play of the Bohemian 
Club is a distinctly Californian art growth, and yet such a thing 
as might have been born in the golden age of Greece. The 
text is always written by a member, and the music is also the 
work of a member. Members take the parts, and none but 
members and visitors with cards of membership, are privileged 
to witness it. 

Olympic Club. At 524 Post street. This is the oldest 
existing amateur athletic organization in the world and one of 
the greatest. It was formed May 6, 1 860, and antedates the 
oldest athletic organizations of New York and London by 
several years. Burned out by the fire of 1 906, it rebuilt on 
the old site. The corner-stone of the present building was laid 
May 6, 1911, and the club reopened on June 15, 1912. 



Clubs and Societies 225 



In its long life the Olympic has contributed much to the 
movement in favor of athletics, and clean athletics, throughout 
the country. It has produced great boxers and wrestlers; and 
such famous track athletes at Robert Haley, Peter Gerhardt, 
V. E. Schifferstein and Jack Nelson, the *'even time" men, 
who could run 1 00 yards in ten seconds, or 220 in 22. Ralph 
Rose, the world's champion shot putter, was a member of this 
club, and so is George Horine, champion high jumper of the 
world, both of whom represented the United States at the 
Olympic games at Stockholm in 1912. 

The club house is one of the most beautifully furnished and 
appointed buildings in the city. 

Probably the pride of the place is the swimming plunge, 1 00 
feet long and 35 feet wide, in a spacious Italian marble cham- 
ber. The pool is filled daily with salt water pumped from 
the ocean. 

The membership of the Olympic club is over 2,400 — larger 
than that of any other men's athletic club in America except 
the New York Athletic. 

University Club. Corner of Powell and California streets. 
More members of the city's younger university men can be 
found here than at any other gathering place in San Francisco. 

The University of California Club has its home at 212 
Stockton street. 

Union League Club, with handsomely appointed quarters 
at the corner of Powell and O'Farrell streets, in the downtown 
section. 

The Southern Club has a beautiful home at California and 
Jones streets with a classic portico suggesting colonial times and 
the *'days before the war." 

Press Club of San Francisco. Southwest corner of Sutter 
and Powell streets. The Press Club is allied with the Friars 
Club of New York. The membership is well over 450, and 
includes former Presidents Taft and Roosevelt and Secretary 
Knox. The club holds an annual show on the 1 7th of April 



226 Handbook for San Francisco 

at one of the down town theaters. The new quarters are hand- 
some and commodious. 

Family Club. Corner of Bush and Powell streets. This 
is one of the clubs that join the country feature to the city 
phase of club life. It owns a beautiful "Farm" with a red- 
wood grove, in Woodside canyon, back of Redwood City, 
San Mateo county. 

San Francisco Commercial Club. On the fourteenth floor 
of the Merchants Exchange building, 431 California street. 
This is an association of about 1450 of the leading business 
men of the city. 

Transportation Club of San Francisco. Mezzanine floor of 
the Palace Hotel. 

Concordia Club. This is one of the leading Jewish social 
organizations of the city. It is located at 1 1 42 Van Ness 
avenue, between Post and Geary. 

Argonaut Club. At Post and Powell. Another well- 
known Jewish club, which grew out of the San Francisco 
Verein, organized in 1853 — one of the earliest social organiza- 
tions in the community, if not the oldest. 

Alliance Francaise. Headquarters for San Francisco are 
at 108 Sutter street; French- American Bank building. 

Ad Mens Club. Secretary, Frederick S. Nelson, 121 Post 
street. 

Pacific Aero Club. In room 730 Pacific building, at Fourth 
and Market streets. Affiliated with the Aero Club of America, 
and through that organization with the Federation Aeronautique 
Internationale. 

Sierra Club. This is one of the celebrated mountaineering 
clubs of the world, and the second largest in the United States. 
Its summer outings, which travelers come from almost every 
country to join, ofl^er facilities for mountain climbing and ex- 
ploration that would be unattainable without it. 

The president is John Muir, author of several works descrip- 
tive of the Sierra and their Big Tree groves; "The Mountains 
of California," "Our National Parks," "My First Summer in 



Cluhs and Societies 227 



the Sierra," and 'The Yosemite." The secretary Is Wilham 
E. Colby, 604 Mills building. Bush and Montgomery streets. 
The club has its city headquarters in the Mills building, room 
402, where members and visitors may consult its remarkable 
collection of books, maps, exchanges and photographs relating 
to mountaineering; and it also has mountain headquarters, dur- 
ing the months of heaviest travel, in the Le Conte Memorial 
Lodge, Yosemite Valley, where there is a library and a readmg 
room and where the club's custodian is always prepared to 
furnish practical data about the mountains. In fact, the most 
serviceable information on all phases of California mountaineer- 
ing can always be obtained from this organization. 

California Camera Cluh. At 833 Market street, between 
Fourth and Fifth. Visitors to San Francisco interested m 
photograph are invited to call at the club rooms. This club is 
probably unique, and in membership is the largest organization 
of camera artists in the country. It is not only a rendezvous 
for advanced photographers, but a school for the beginner and 
the amateur, where every convenience has been assembled for 
photographic work. There is a fine library of reference works 

on photography. 

Commonrvealth Cluh of California, At 153 Kearny street. 
This is an active and vigorous organization for the study and 
discussion of problems affecting the community with a view to 
assisting in their solution. Students of such subjects may con- 
sult the club's growing library on political, economic and socio- 
logical topics, at the rooms, which are open from 9 a. m. to 5 
p. m., week days, except Saturday, when they close at 3 p. m. 

Local Council of Women, member of the National Council. 
President, Miss Jessica Lee Briggs, 1942 A Hyde street; cor- 
responding secretary, Mrs. Augusta Jones. 2524 Clay street. 
This body represents between 2,500 and 3,000 women, bemg 
a federation of the women's clubs of the city. 

Academy of Sciences. 343 Sansome street. Soon to erect 
a fine steel-framed building near the Francis Scott Key Monu- 
ment in Golden Gate Park, where its large natural history col- 



228 Handbook, for San Francisco 

lections will be housed. Its collection of water-fowl is said to 
be the best in the world, 

San Francisco Turn Verein. At 2450 Sutter street, between 
Divisadero and Broderick. Accessible from the hotel district 
tij Sutter street cars on Lines Nos. 1 or 2. 

Columbia Park Bo})s' Club of San Francisco. At 458 
Guerrero street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth. 

Valencia street car. Line No. 9, to Sixteenth, and walk one 
block ^^5/ to Guerrero; or Fillmore street line to Sixteenth and 
Guerrero; also b^ lines 10 or 26, on Mission street, to Seven- 
teenth and Guerrero. Visitors are always welcome. Mem- 
bership is limited to those under 1 2 years. There are no dues, 
but personal service is exacted from every member. The boys 
are called upon continually to assist in charitable enterprises, 
and through their bands, chorals and athletic and dramatic per- 
formances have been able to earn their way on travel tours to 
every city and town in the State, along the west coast as far 
as Seattle, east as far as New York, and across the Pacific and 
throughout Australasia. At this writing a number of them are 
on a tour of the world, and in England were entertained on Sir 
Thomas Lipton's yacht. 

The work is in progress after 3:30 every day except Satur- 
days and Sundays. There is military drill at 1 1 o'clock Satur- 
day. Visitors are always welcome. 

Caledonian Club of San Francisco. Meets the first and 
third Fridays of the month at 121 Larkin street, one block 
north of Market. 

San Francisco Scottish Thistle Club. Regular meetings are 
held on the second and fourth Thursdays of the month at I 2 1 
Larkin street, the latter being a "smoker." 

Recreation League of San Francisco. Office in the Phelan 
building at 760 Market street. An amalgamation of over 80 
civic, commercial and philanthropic organizations to promote 
an interest in outdoor sports and to make San Francisco known 
fis a city of play. 



Clubs and Societies 229 



Sequoia Club. At 1 725 Washington street, between Polk 
street and Van Ness avenue. Sequoia Club Hall building. 
Gertrude Atherton is an honorary member, and so is Ina Cool- 
brith, the poet. 

San Francisco-Alaska Club. At 4 Eddy street, near Mar- 
ket and Powell. 

Commercial Travelers' 1915. Otto C. Sievers, 673 Fourth 
avenue, secretary. Meets second and fourth Fridays at 444 
Market street. 

Pacific Coast Commercial Travelers* Association. Head-, 
quarters 444 Market. Meets last Saturday of the month. 

San Francisco Commercial Travelers' Association. Meets 
second and fourth Tuesdays at 61 1 Pacific building. 

San Francisco Chapter of the American Institute of Archi- 
tects. Sylvain Schnaittacher, secretary. First National Bank 
building, Montgomery and Post streets. 

San Francisco Architectural Club. Harry Thompson, sec- 
retary, 126 Post street. 

The Bar Association of San Francisco extends a welcome to 
visiting attorneys that may wish to consult its law library, 
ninth floor of the Pacific building. Market and Fourth streets. 

The Order of Railwa}) Conductors, Division 1 1 3, meets at 
530 Bryant street on the first and third Tuesdays of the month. 
There are two lodges of the Brotherhood of Railroad Train- 
men in this city. San Francisco Lodge No. 198 meets at 530 
Bryant street, at 7:30 p. m., on the first Tuesday of the month, 
and at 1 :30 p. m., on the third Sunday. Golden Gate Lodge 
No. 846 meets at the same place on the second Wednesday 
and the third Saturday of the month at I 2 :30 p. m. 

Besides these there are the Arm^ and Nav^ Club, at 126 
Post street; the California Anglers' Association, at 15 
Stockton street; the Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo, in the 
Fife building, with a membership among the lumbermen ; and 
many more. 

The San Francisco Labor Council meets every Friday at 8 
p. m., at the Labor Temple, 316 Fourteenth street. 



230 



Handbook for San Francisco 




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Commercial Organizations 23 



Building Trades Council headquarters are at Building 
Trades Temple, Fourteenth and Guerrero streets. The gen- 
eral president and secretary-treasurer of the State Building 
Trades Council have headquarters in the Merchants National 
Bank building. 



COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS. 

Board of Trade of San Francisco. Located at 444 Market 
street, foot of Bush. There is no exhibit here, nor other feature 
of interest to the visitor, the Board being organized to carry out 
certain business objects of its members. 

Merchants Exchange. This organization formerly regulated 
the shipping, grain, beans, hay and allied trades of San Fran- 
cisco, but its commercial functions were assumed by the San 
Francisco Chamber of Commerce when that body was formed 
by the consolidation of the Merchants' Association, the Mer- 
chants' Exchange, the Down Town Association and the old 
Chamber of Commerce of San Francisco, in 1911. The Ex- 
change now exists as a holding body for the Merchants' Ex- 
change building. 

San Francisco Chamber of Commerce. The offices of the 
Chamber are on the thirteenth floor of the Merchants' Exchange 
building, 431 California street. Information about San Fran- 
cisco can be obtained here during business hours. The organi- 
zation has over 3,000 members, is the third largest in the coun- 
try, and the largest body of its kind in the United States in pro- 
portion to the size of the city it represents. It is the one central 
civic and commercial organization of San Francisco, and is con- 
tinuously at work through its Board of Directors and its forty 
standing and special committees to promote the trade and wel- 
fare of the community. This hand book has been compiled 
and published by its Publicity Committee. 



232 Handbool^ for San Francisco I 

The Chamber maintains an active 1 raffic Bureau, a Foreign 
Trade Department, a Municipal Affairs committee, an Inspec- 
tion Bureau that watches the expenditure of pubHc funds and 
the execution of pubhc works, a Reception Committee, a Grain 
Inspection Department, which grades the quality of grain bought 
and sold on the exchange and passes on the regularity of the 
warehouses in which it is stored. Arbitration and Appeals com- 
mittees, before which commercial arbitrations are conducted, a 
Publicity Department, a Domestic Trade Extension com- 
mittee that has conducted jobbers' and manufacturers excur- 
sions all over California, and a National and Foreign Affairs 
committee that watches the trend of national legislation and 
diplomacy and its possible effect on San Francisco, through a 
special Washington Bureau. Few cities have such concentra- 
tion of civic and commercial function as this. 

The Exchange Hall of the Chamber of Commerce is on the 
ground floor of the Merchants' Exchange building at 43 1 Cali- 
fornia street, and here is conducted the trade of the city, and 
of the State as well, in barley, oats, wheat, flour and beans. 
The transactions take place at two sessions a day; from 1 1 to 
II :30 a. m., and 2 to 2:30 p. m. Through a door near the 
east or LeidesdorfF street end of the cross corridor, visitors are 
admitted to a small railed gallery overlooking the grain pit. 

This is the hall in which, on April 28, 1910, amid a 
tumult of enthusiasm such as few cities have ever witnessed, 
citizens of San Francisco subscribed over four million dollars 
in less than two hours as a beginning for the Panama-Pacific 
Exposition. 

The San Francisco Stock and Bond Exchange is on the 
ground floor of the Merchants' Exchange building, 431 Cali- 
fornia street. Sessions are at 10:30 a. m. and 2 p. m. 



sports 233 

SPORTS. 

If nothing else did, results of sporting contests would go far 
toward establishing the proposition that San Francisco is a 
place where men do things well. 

One San Franciscan, W. D. Mansfield, is the world s 
champion amateur fly caster. Another, George Horine, is the 
world's champion amateur high jumper. Another, Ralph Rose, 
is the world's champion amateur 1 6-pound shot putter. An- 
other, Adolph Strecker, held a world's rifle championship for 
many years. Another, James E. Gorman, has a pistol score 
that is the highest ever made, and a revolver score that has 
never been beaten. Another San Franciscan, Maurice E. Mc- 
Laughlin, is the champion tennis player of the United States. 

Sport is hospitable here. Almost without exception the vis- 
itor properly introduced will find a welcome among the sports- 
men's organizations. For the service of travelers we present 
here some information that will enable them to enjoy the out- 
door attractions of the Bay region. 

California, as one enthusiast has put it, is "one great fish and 
game preserve." Deer are actually more numerous in this State 
today than they were 30 years ago, owing to the destruction of 
panthers and other predatory animals, under a wise bounty 
system. 

The State is 750 miles long, well watered, in parts heavily 
wooded, with noble stretches of game cover, and some of the 
grandest trout streams to be found. 

Fish and game abound, and if you want to get a shot at a 
cinnamon bear, waylay a cougar or entice a steelhead with a 
dry fly, there are plenty of resorts so near San Francisco that 
you can reach them with no more luggage than your bag and 
gun case, and no longer than a few days' absence from your 
comfortable city hotel. In fact, San Francisco is the focus of 
a "Sportsman's Paradise." 

So long is the state and so infinitely varied are its natural 
conditions that no general game laws could be applied to it, and 



234 Handbook for San Francisco ' 

it has been necessary for the legislature to divide it into six 
districts and vary the law among them. Closed and open sea- 
sons differ with the locality. Moreover, county boards of 
supervisors have been vested by the legislature with power to 
shorten the open seasons, so that it is difficult to present reliable 
data on this point that would stay so for any length of time. 
Many of the sporting goods houses print excerpts from the law 
and diagrams of seasons, so that current information for any 
time and place can be obtained from them. 

FISHING. 

One dollar license is required for fishing. As to rods and 
tackle, San Francisco sporting goods houses can supply the best 
quality to be found of the suitable thing, and advice about its use. 

For salmon, the Wilson spoon, a famous killer hereabouts, 
is a native San Franciscan, and the Kewell spoon is another 
good one. 

Salmon. Some of the liveliest salmon fishing in the world 
can be enjoyed right in San Francisco Bay, or just "outside 
the heads." 

Beginning in June, and sometimes as early as May, the 
salmon begin to run at Monterey, 85 miles due south of 
this city, or 1 22 miles by rail. Here, in this quaint old Span- 
ish town, the original capital of California, you can get good 
accommodations, boats and launches, bait, and men to take you 
out. Other points on Monterey Bay are Santa Cruz, Capitola, 
Aptos, Soquel, and the famous resort, Del Monte, all easily 
reached from San Francisco by the Southern Pacific railroad, 
and all able to supply fishing facilities. 

Within a few weeks after the run begins at Monterey the 
salmon will have reached the Golden Gate. The sporting 
goods houses along Market street, or north Kearny street, will 
be glad to give you the needed information to the minute. 

This is the time, if you wish to hook a fifty-pound fish with 



sports 235 

fighting blood in him, to arrange with G. Sanguinetti for a 
gasoline crab launch from Fishermen's Wharf to take you 
out. 

Sanguinetti should have a day's notice. His place is at the 
southwest corner of Mason and Jefferson streets. 

Take the Powell street cable car marked ''Market and 
Powell, Ba\^ and Taylor" and go to the terminus. Fishermen's 
Wharf is dead ahead about four blocks, Jefferson is the last 
street before you reach it, and Mason is one block to your right 
(east). The right price for the launch and its engineer should 
be $ 1 0, and the boatman will supply the bait. 

In the same manner you can get rock cod fishing around 
Angel Island and Raccoon straits, (between Angel island and 
Belvedere) and striped bass in the rivers, creeks and sloughs 
that communicate with the Bay. The bass afford fine sport, 
often weighing as high as 55 pounds, and furnishing the best 
of food. Launches can be hired, also, from the Crowley 
Launch and Tugboat company, from Henry Peterson, Charles 
Peterson, Johnson, Lang, John Leary and others, who can 
be found along the water front, and by consulting the tele- 
phone directory. 

Launches and rowboats can be had at Sausalito and at 
Tiburon. 

Trout, Fly fishing for Steelhead is a popular sport in the 
vicinity of San Francisco. A steelhead is supposed to be a rain- 
bow trout that has been to sea, and he is a great fighting fish. 

Probably the finest steelhead fishing to be found near this city 
(and it is near enough so one can go and return the same 
day), is in San Gregorio lagoon and creek, three miles beyond 
the present terminus of the Ocean Shore railroad's northern 
division. There is a stage connection at Tunitas Glen, where 
the division ends at present. 

Five miles below San Gregorio is Pescadero, also very fine. 

The Ocean Shore skirts the bluffs just above the sea, south- 
ward from San Francisco for 38 miles, and northward from 
Santa Cruz 151/2 miles, cutting across the courses of several 



236 Handbook for San Francisco 

trout streams. In 1912 the company put into these streams 
200,000 young fish from the state hatcheries. At any access- 
ible beach along the line, and there are many of them, the 
surf-fishing for cod, eels and perch is good, and numbers of 
people find recreation and good food gathering mussels and 
abalones from the rocks. 

Trains on the Ocean Shore leave the city from Twelfth and 
Market streets. Returning, one can leave Tunitas at 5:30 
p. m., arriving at Twelfth and Market at 7:35 p. m. There 
are four daily trains down this road at present. 

North of San Francisco, up to the Oregon line, is a stretch 
of coast country heavily wooded, with cover for quail, doves, 
grey and Douglas squirrel, deer, bear and cougar, and with 
living streams that reach the ocean and abound in fish. The 
Northwestern Pacific, leaving Sausalito, threads this region 
for about I 50 miles, to Sherwood, Mendocino county, and for 
most of the distance runs several trains a day. 

Large areas of this country are heavily timbered with virgin 
redwood forest, and its rough mountain ranges are gashed to 
the sea with rivers whose very names spell fish to a Californian. 
Detailed information can be obtained at the ticket office of the 
company, 874 Market street. 

Lake county is called the Switzerland of California. Min- 
eral springs are many and a health resort has been built beside 
nearly every one. Hunting and fishing are good all through 
the region. 

Southward again from San Francisco, on the Southern 
Pacific, one reaches such places as Boulder Creek and Brook- 
dale, in the rugged Santa Cruz mountains. 

New regions have recently been opened to the hunter 
and angler by the construction of the Western Pacific rail- 
road. On this line one can get directly at the Big Meadows 
country, on the north fork of the Feather river, in Plumas 
county. The Feather is a magnificent stream, broad and full, 
carrying the largest low water flow of any of the streams of 
Central California. 



sports 



237 




LAKE TAHOE AND THE SIERRA, FROM MT. TALLAC. 



Lake Tahoe is within easy reach of San Francisco, One can 
leave the city at night and be there next morning. Its half-mile 
sapphire depths hide big ones. Boats and launches can be 
had at the Tavern or at Tallac, the largest two resorts, both 
very comfortable. Here are rainbow. Loch Levin, great Mack- 
inaw, and other fighting breeds. There are many resorts on 
the lake, besides those we have mentioned, such as Homewood, 
McKinney's, Moana Villa, Emerald Bay, with a good camp 
and near the deepest part of the lake; Al-Tahoe, Bijou, the 
Grove, Lakeside Park, Glenbrook, Brockway, Tahoe Vista, 
Carnelian Bay, and others. Rubicon Springs are easily reached 
by stage from McKinney's, and the fishing nearby is excellent. 
All of them have boats. 

Fallen Leaf Lake is but three or four miles from Tallac, 
and the trolling here is good. A stage leaves Tallac for this 
place just after lunch. Another leaves about the same time for 

Clen Alpine Springs, about seven miles from the Tallac 



238 Handboo}^ for San Francisco 

house and around the shoulder of Ml. Tallac. Forty-six lakes 
lie within a six-mile radius of the springs. On nine of them 
the hotel camp keeps boats for its guests. 

The Truckee river tears its way out of Tahoe, and its 
riffles hide fine fighters. It is a stream for experts and much 
of it is preserved, but there are some good reaches that are still 
open. 

Then there are Hetch Hetchy and the Tuolumne Meadows, 
the streams above Yosemite valley, the Merced river in the 
valley itself, but the fishing here is a hard proposition. The 
Kern, King's River and Kaweah canyons, and as many more 
as you care to try, leading into the fastnesses of the high 
Sierra, amid the most beautiful and wonderful scenery in 
North America. 

And so the story goes, north, south and east, with the ocean 
to the west, and with San Francisco a hub from which radiate 
transportation lines in every direction to the finest fields of sport 
on the continent. In a work of this size we can not undertake 
to describe, or even locate, all the places where delight awaits 
the angler and big game targets await the hunter, but inquiry 
at the railroad ticket offices and some vigilance around the 
sporting goods houses, which continually receive advices from 
the railroad station agents, will serve to inform any intelligent 
person about facilities and accommodations. The Southern 
Pacific offices are at 834 Market, Palace Hotel, Third and 
Townsend depot; the Northwestern Pacific at 874 Market; the 
Santa Fe at 673 Market; the Western Pacific at 665 Market, 
all of them have offices and information bureaus at the Ferry. 

FLY CASTING. 

In this sport San Francisco stands supreme, with records that 
have never been approached. The organization that conducts 
the events is the San Francisco Fl^ Casting Club, which has 
a club house at Stow Lake, in Golden Gate Park, and a fish- 
ing lodge on the Truckee river about three miles west of Boca, 
where it owns two miles of river bank. Grover Cleveland was 



Sports 239 

a member of this organization, and Dr. Henry Van Dyke of 
Princeton belongs to it. The present secretary is Paul M. Nip- 
pert, Mills building. Bush and Montgomery streets. The presi- 
dent is F. J. Cooper. The membership includes many of the 
leading men of the community, in business and the professions. 
Contests at casting the fly and the half-ounce lure occur on 
alternate Saturdays and following Sundays at Stow Lake, in 
Golden Gate Park, from March to November, and the per- 
formances here are so remarkable that they have made this bit 
of water famous among anglers all over the world. The events 
occur at 2:30 p. m., on Saturdays and 10:30 a. m., on Sun- 
days, at a concrete pier constructed by the park commissioners 
especially for this use. Visiting anglers are welcome. 

The world's record for single handed fly-casting with a 
heavy rod, in open tournament, is 1 34 feet, made by Walter 
D. Mansfield of San Francisco at Stow Lake in 1902. Since 
then, in club contests, H. C. Golcher of San Francisco cast 
140 feet, T. W. Brotherton of San Francisco 137, J. B. 
Kenniff of San Francisco 1 35 ; and Walter D. Mansfield 
in a record exhibition made a cast of 1 44. The nearest ap- 
proach to these marks is 1 20 feet, made at Chicago. 

With the light rod, the record is held by Mansfield of San 
Francisco, at 1 29 feet, 6 inches, the next best cast being 1 1 4 
feet, made in Chicago. These records have never been ap- 
proached in Europe. 

The San Francisco Fly Casting Club is a member of the 
National Association of Scientific Angling Clubs, and its 
records are recognized throughout the world. Its membership 
is limited to 1 00, and the number is always complete. 

HUNTING. 

The law imposes a hunting license fee of $1 a year on resi- 
dents of California, $10 a year on citizens not residing in the 
State, and $25 a year on aliens. If the $1 license is what you 
require you can buy it at any first class sporting goods shop in 
the city. The others must be obtained from the county clerk 



240 Handbook for San Francisco 

or at the office of the Fish and Game Commission, in the Mills 
building, corner of Bush and Montgomery streets. 

The sporting goods houses and railroad offices can supply 
definite directions for getting at the game — ducks, quail, snipe, 
geese, deer, bear and panther. 

HORSEBACK RIDING. 

Saddle horses for riding in the Park or elsewhere about the 
city can be obtained from the Hulda Stables, at 1530 Fell 
street, the Park Riding Academy, 2934 Fulton street, or the 
Riding and Driving Club, at 701 Seventh avenue. There are 
delightful rides down toward Ingleside, and to the Crystal 
Lakes and Lake Pilarcitos, in San Mateo county. 

BASEBALL. 

At Recreation Park, Fifteenth and Valencia streets. 

Valencia street car. Line No. 9, or Eighteenth & Park Line, 
(no number.) 

Reserved seats for Sundays and holidays may be secured at 
884 Market street up to 1 o'clock of the day of the game; or 
at Recreation Park, in person or by telephone. Advance res- 
ervation may be made for Sunday and holiday games. Only 
box seats are reserved on week days. The prices are: 

Bleachers, 25 cents. Grand stand, box seats, 75 cents on 
week days and $1 on Sundays and holidays. Grand stand 
general admission, on week days 50 cents; Sundays and holi- 
days (all seats reserved), first four rows, opera chairs, 75 
cents; all other seats 50 cents. 

The local ball park will seat over 12,000 people. 

Owing to the climate, the coast schedule is the longest in or- 
ganized baseball. It begins about April 1st, and runs until 
late in October, a period of 30 weeks, or practically seven 
months. 

The schedule calls for baseball five days of the week in San 
Francisco: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sun- 
day afternoons. There is no game on Monday. On Sat- 



sports 241 

urdays, Sundays and holidays game begins at 2:30 p. m. ; on 
Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 3 o'clock. On Thurs- 
day afternoons and Sunday mornings the teams journey to Oak- 
land. 

The Pacific Coast Baseball League is composed of six 
teams: San Francisco, Oakland, Los Angeles, Portland, Sac- 
ramento and Venice. 

The OaI(land Baseball Park is located at San Pablo and 
Park avenues, Emeryville. 

Take Key system ferry and Piedmont train at the mole, to 
Fortieth street and San Pablo avenues, and walk three blocks 
north. 

Here ball is played, during the season, at 3:15 p. m., Thurs- 
days, and 10:10 a. m. on Sundays and holidays. Bleacher 
seats are 25 cents, grand stand 50 and 75 cents, box seats 
75 cents and $ 1 . The grand stand here is a modern and very 
fine structure. 

On the nine diamonds in Golden Gate Park one can see as 
many amateur games going on continuously, all day of a Sun- 
• day; and many other amateur teams use the play-ground dia- 
monds at various points about the city. 

FOOTBALL. 

The English Rugby game is played between the fifteens of 
the University of California and Leland Stanford Junior Uni- 
versity, and the annual contest of the two institutions is the 
main football event of the Coast. It takes place in November ; 
at Berkeley, on California Field, in even-numbered years, and 
at Palo Alto, on Stanford Field, in the odd-numbered ones. 
The rivalry has continued for 2 1 years, having begun in 1 89 1 , 
and the total score of all games played since then stands 
(1913) at 198 for California and 195 for Stanford. 

The English Rugby game was introduced in 1 906, and 
speedily supplanted the early form of the sport in popular 
favor. It had the further advantage of uniting the interests 
of the football men of the Coast and those of Australia and 



242 Handbook for San Francisco 

New Zealand. The California Rugby Union now embraces 
all teams playing English Rugby on the Coast. Last year 
this organization imported the Australian "Waratah" team, 
which defeated an All-America fifteen. In 1909 the Aus- 
tralian "Wallaby" team was brought over, and next season a 
team will come here from New Zealand. 

"Soccer," or association football, which in England corre- 
sponds in interest and mode of organization to our professional 
baseball, is a summer game in the East, but is played straight 
through the winter in San Francisco, and under conditions that 
impose the most rigid principles of clean amateur sport. When 
snow and ice in other parts of the country have put an end to 
almost all outdoor games, winter football can be seen at 2:30 
every Sunday, rain or shine, at the Ocean shore grounds at 
Mission and Twelfth streets, which can be reached by taking 
an^ Mission street car, or Market street car to Twelfth and 
walking a block south. Games in which a university team 
participates occur on Saturday, at the same time. Women 
and children under 1 4 are admitted free. Others pay 25 cents. 

CRICKET. 

Cricket games are played between teams of the California 
Cricket Association every Sunday afternoon, beginning at 1 
o'clock, from early May to the end of September, at the 
Stadium in Golden Gate Park, and at CrolFs grounds in 
Alameda. To reach the Alameda grounds 

Take the Southern Pacific Ferry from the foot of Market 
street to Alameda Pier, and the High street train from there to 
Webster street station. 

The Association consists of four teams: The Wanderers, 
the Barbarians, the Golden Gates and the Alameda. A chal- 
lenge cup goes to the winner of the year's series. Visiting 
cricketers are always welcome. 

TRACK AND FIELD ATHLETICS. 
There is no season when sports afield can not be enjoyed in 
San Francisco and the vicinity, as there is almost no weather. 



sports 243 

at any time of the year, that seriously interferes with them. 
Athletic organization embraces the grammar schools and even 
the Sabbath schools. 

The governing body for California, north of Tehachapi and 
Nevada, under whose sanction all regular events are held, is 
the Pacific Association of the Amateur Athletic Union of the 
United States; the president is John Elliott, 42 Clay street, 
San Francisco, and the secretary Herbert Hauser, 4 1 Mont- 
gomery street. San Francisco grammar schools, high schools 
all over Northern California, the local Y. M. C. A., the 
National Guard, all the universities and colleges around the 
bay, and the University of Nevada are represented in it and 
are part of it. 

The universities take the lead in interest, although the Olym- 
pic, the Barbarian and the Pastime Clubs push them close. 
Outdoor events begin in March and continue until October, 
and are held in the Stadium at Golden Gate Park, on the 
University of California Oval, at St. Ignatius College, St. 
Mary's College, the University of Santa Clara, or the athletic 
field of Stanford University. The Stadium in Golden Gate 
Park is one of the finest and most completely equipped athletic 
fields in the world, and the field at Stanford is very fine also. 
Each has a 220-yard straight-away. For locations and meth- 
ods of reaching these places see the index. 

The Recreation League of San Francisco, with its office in 
the Phelan building. Market and O'Farrell streets, does a great 
deal to promote a healthy interest in outdoor sports of all kinds. 
The secretary is James E. Rogers. 

A San Franciscan, Mr. William Unmack, has been asked 
by the Amateur Athletic Union of the United States to take 
an All-American track team to Australia and New Zealand 
for the antipodean summer 1913 to 1914. 

YACHTING. 

The Bay of San Francisco is a matchless sheet of water 
for all aquatic sports. It has an area of 420 square miles, of 



244 



Handbook for San Francisco 




LOOKING OVER THE BAY FROM TAMALPAIS. 

which there is a space of 190 square miles that is over 30 feet 
deep. It offers fine sailing courses, and there is so much of 
good brisk breeze through the summer that San Francisco 
boats have about half the sail plan of those on the Atlantic 
Coast. 

Landward are several good sloughs or creeks, navigable for 
pleasure craft, and the mouths of two great rivers, the Sacra- 
mento and the San Joaquin. The rivers are beautiful to travel 
and give access to most interesting country. At an ordinary 



sports 243 

stage of water a boat drawing seven feet can go as far as Sac- 
ramento on the Sacramento river, or Stockton on the San Joa- 
quin, and every foot of the way is full of charm and interest. 

But this is only the beginning. "Outside" is the blue Pa- 
cific, inviting bay yachtsmen for cruises to Bolinas and Drake's 
bays on the north, and down the coast to Monterey bay, 85 
miles to the southward, where are the pleasant resorts of Santa 
Cruz, Monterey and Pacific Grove. On such a cruise one gets 
the finest of sea fishing. If one has a stanch boat and good 
crew he is not limited even to coasting, for Honolulu calls with 
its tropical allurements. This is a cruise that can be made in 
fifteen days from San Francisco, with the greatest comfort at 
almost any season of the year. An eastern yachtsman who 
had brought his boat around could not do better than return 
by way of Honolulu and the Panama Canal ; or keep on from 
Honolulu to the Samoan islands, the Philippines and China. 

It was from San Francisco Bay that Robert Louis Stevenson 
departed in the yacht "Casco" on the South Sea voyage that 
took him to Samoa, and it was from this port that Jack London 
set sail on the "Snark." 

A line addressed to the secretary of either the San Francisco 
or the Corinthian Yacht Club will put a stranger in touch with 
the yachting situation; when, if he has letters from the East, 
navigation will be made easy for him. 

The San Francisco Yacht Club has its club house at Sausa- 
lito, which can be reached from the Ferry buildmg at the foot 
of Market street by ferry boats running half hourly during the 
early and late hours, and hourly during the middle of the day. 
It has a spacious anchorage, and all facilities. A steam yacht 
of any size can come alongside the float, and there are cranes 
to handle heavy material. 

The Sausalito Yacht Club has its headquarters and club 
house at Sausalito. 

The Corinthian Yacht Club has its club house at Tiburon, 
reached by an hourly ferry boat from Sausalito. Many power 
boats are represented in this organization. 



246 Handbool( for San Francisco 

The Aeolian Yachi Club and the Encinal Yacht Club are 
both located at Alameda, which is reached from the Ferry 
building, foot of Market street. 

The South Bay Yacht Club is at Alviso. 

The Vallejo Yacht Club is situated at the town of that 
name, just above San Pablo Bay. 

The Pacific Motor Boat Club is one of the big factors in 
motor boating on the coast. Its club house is at Belvedere, 
Marin county. 

In Oakland are the California Yacht Club, and the Oak- 
land Yacht and Motor Boat Club. 

ROWING. 

Eight-oar shell races occur between crews of Stanford Uni- 
versity, the University of California and Washington Uni- 
versity in the Oakland estuary annually, some time during the 
month of June. To reach the estuary take the Southern Pa- 
cific ferry to Alameda Pier, whence there is good walking 
along the mole to the finish. This is the main rowing event of 
the year in the vicinity of San Francisco. 

The Alameda Rowing Club of Alameda, and the South 
End Rowing and Boating, the Ariel Rowing and Boating, 
and the Dolphin Swimming and Boating Clubs of San Fran- 
cisco form the Pacific Association of Amateur Oarsmen, which 
holds a rowing regatta, with four-oared barge races and skiff 
races, every Fourth of July, at Black Point Cove, near Fort 
Mason. The three clubs last named have club houses there, 
and San Francisco's swimming, boating and other aquatic 
events occur along this bit of water. 

Hyde street cars will take you to Black Point Cove. 

Persons fond of rowing will find good boats at the boai: 
house on Stow Lake, in Golden Gate Park. 

GOLF. 

Cool, rainless summers, and winters without snow, with 
reliable stretches of dry weather and clear skies, make San Fran- 
cisco and its environs ideal for this sport. There are fine links 



sports 247 

in the vicinity, laid out by experts, and where they belong to 
clubs the visitor needs only some member to put him up, in 
order to enjoy the game. The following are some of the 
best courses, either in the city or at such distance that one 
can go and return in a day or two: 

Municipal Course in Lincoln Park, San Francisco. Sit- 
uated on bluffs overlooking the Golden Gate. The course is 
six holes, northerly, with a possibility of nine by playing west- 
ward from the northerly green toward Land's End. Open 
to all and no fees required. 

Presidio Golf Course, Just within the Presidio of San 
Francisco, to the left of the First avenue entrance. An 
eighteen-hole course, and one of the finest in the State. Main- 
tained by the United States Army. Used by the United 
Service Golf Club, and by the Presidio Golf Club. The head- 
quarters of the latter are at 8 Presidio Terrace. 

Ingleside Coif and Country Club. This is an 1 8-hole 
course, on sandy soil, and in winter is like the eastern courses 
at their best. 

Burlingame Countr]) Club. Near Burlingame, 1 6 miles 
down the San Francisco Peninsula; about 31 minutes on the 
Southern Pacific railroad from Third and Townsend depot. 
An 1 8-hole course, delightfully situated. 

Beresford Country Club. Near San Mateo, 1 8 miles down 
the peninsula, just beyond Burlingame, and reached in the 
same way. The links are but a year old, but when complete 
will be one of the best 1 8-hole courses in the country, and 
the longest near San Francisco. 

Menlo Country Club. At Menlo Park, 29 miles down 
the peninsula, on Southern Pacific. The course now consists 
of nine holes, but will shortly be doubled. 

Santa Cruz. Situated on Monterey Bay, 76 miles south 
of San Francisco, on Southern Pacific. Links are full cham- 
pionship length, 6200 yards, 1 8 holes. Open to all guests of 
the Casa del Rey hotel at Santa Cruz, and to others on pay- 
ment of a green-fee. 



248 Handhool( for San. Francisco 

Del Monte. Near historic Monterey, and about 1 2 1 miles 
from San Francisco, on Southern Pacific. No cards or intro- 
duction necessary. The Hnks, within a five-minute walk of 
the hotel, are the scene of the annual Pacific Coast Cham- 
pionship contests. The course is 1 8 holes, full championship, 
6300 yards, with fine putting greens. 

San Jose Country Club and Coif Linl^s. Linda Vista 
district, six miles east of San Jose. Eighteen holes, 6200 yards. 
An excellent course, with a beautiful outlook. 

Claremont Country Club. Across the bay, in Oakland. An 
1 8-hole course, on soil of the typical inland California sort. 
Take Key s])stem ferr}^ and Fortieth street train; DroadxDay car 
north. 

Marin County^ Country Club. Near San Rafael, 1 5 miles 
north of San Francisco, on the Northwestern Pacific. There is 
a 9-hole course, in beautiful surroundings, with the additional 
attraction of a salt water plunge. 

HANDBALL. 

There are six free handball courts in Golden Gate Park, 
directly south of the Francis Scott Key monument. Handball 
courts are also found in most of the athletic gymnasiums, like 
that of the Olympic Club. 

TENNIS. 

This is an all-year-round sport in San Francisco, where 
the summers are never too warm nor the winters too cold for 
brisk work at the nets. As a result this city takes the lead 
at expert play, and produces champions in numbers. 

Maurice E. McLaughlin of San Francisco is (1913) the 
champion of the United States in the singles class, having won 
the title at Newport, R. I., in August, 1912. With Thomas 
C. Bundy of Los Angeles he also won the doubles cham- 
pionship in the same tournament. Carlton R. Gardner of 
San Francisco is champion of the Orient, having won that 
title at Manila. Two other San Franciscans, William John- 



Sports 249 

ston and Elia Fottrell, are champions of the Northwest in 
the doubles class. In all, four San Francisco men are among 
the ten best players in the United States. Miss Hazel Hotch- 
kiss of Berkeley was the women's champion of the United 
States at both singles and doubles in 1910. 1911 and 1912. 

Dr. Sumner Hardy of San Francisco is president of the 
Pacific States Lawn Tennis Association, a confederation of 
clubs in California, Oregon and Washington. 

The principal tennis clubs in this city are the California 
Lawn Tennis Club, and the Golden Gate Lawn Tennis Club; 
but one does not have to belong to a club to enjoy the 
sport to the full, for there are courts in Golden Gate Park 
and many of the city squares that are open to any well- 
behaved person. 

The California Tennis Club's five asphaltum courts are 
at the southwest corner of Scott and Bush streets, where 
visiting players with proper credentials are always made wel- 
come. 

The Golden Gate Club holds its matches on the courts in 
Golden Gate Park. 

There are about a dozen courts in the park, toward the 
east end and just south of Favorite point, where the Middle 
Drive meets the Main Drive. They are free to all. 

In addition there are other courts in Alta Plaza, between 
Scott and Steiner, and Jackson and Clay streets; Mission 
Park, between Eighteenth and Twentieth, and Dolores and 
Church streets; in Lafayette Square, between Laguna and 
Gough, and Washington and Sacramento streets; and in Holly 
Park, which would be at the crossing of Highland and Bocana 
avenues, in the southern part of the city. These are all public 
squares, under the administrative control of the Park Com- 
missioners, and the use of the tennis courts in them is free. 

Some fine matches are played on the public courts, espe- 
cially in Golden Gate Park, but coast championship games 
are usually played at the Hotel Del Monte, on the Bay of 
Monterey, just east of the town of that name. 



250 Handbool( for San Francisco 

POLO. 

This is a winter game in California, the season running 
from November to May. Some of the best contests occur 
when Eastern fields are covered with snow. In fact, the same 
chmatic conditions that foster all kinds of outdoor sport near 
San Francisco, make the vicinity ideal for polo — so much 
so that at San Mateo, less than twenty miles down the 
peninsula, there are three line polo fields within a two-mile 
radius. All these can be reached easily from San Mateo, 
which is accessible either by the Southern Pacific from Third 
and Townsend depot, or by the electric car starting from 
Fifth and Market streets. 

Two of these fields are on the private estates of Francis J. 
Carolan and Charles W. Clark. The Carolan, or "Cross- 
way," field is about three blocks easterly from Burlingame 
depot, the last stop on the Southern Pacific before San Mateo. 
The Clark field is just across El Camino Real, about a block 
west of the Hotel Peninsula. The San Mateo Polo Club has 
its field and club house at El Cerrito Park, Hillsboro, about 
ten minutes' walk westward of the depot at San Mateo, and 
about fifteen minutes' walk from the hotel. 

The three fields are on soils of different character, and 
their proximity to one another makes it possible to find good 
conditions in any weather. They are generally used in rotation. 

The game is now well organized under the auspices of the 
San Mateo Polo Club, formed in 1906, and play is con- 
tinuous through the season, which begins Nov. 1 and lasts 
until May I . There are three teams of this organization in 
the field. The members practice during the week; and on 
Saturdays and Sundays, at 3 p. m., there are regular mem- 
bers' games. The club house premises are reserved for mem- 
bers and their guests. The public grand stands seat about 
three thousand, and parking space is provided for autos. 

At intervals, especially on holidays, there are hard match 
games, well worth a trip to this beautiful locality to witness. 



sports 25 1 

The annual tournament is held in February and as the 
incidental expenses are heavy, an admittance fee of twenty-five 
and fifty cents is charged for these events. During the spring 
of 1912 teams participated that had come from Los Angeles, 
Santa Barbara, Canada and England. In 1913 the Honolulu 
team played here. 

Polo players from a distance wishing to participate should 
communicate with the San Mateo Polo Club, San Mateo, 
California. Accommodations can be had at the Peninsula 
Hotel, which is open throughout the season. 

A member of the club pays an entrance fee of twenty-five 
dollars on joining, and five dollars a month thereafter. Dues 
for non-resident members are five dollars per quarter, which 
entitles them to all the privileges of the club when residing in 
San Mateo. Player's fee for the season is fifty dollars. 

gentlemen's driving clubs. 

That typical American sporting event, the trotting race in 
harness, can be seen almost any fair Saturday or Sunday 
afternoon, beginning about 12:30 p. m., during the season 
from May to November, at the Stadium in Golden Gate 
Park, under the best amateur conditions. There is no admit- 
tance fee. 

The San Francisco Driving Club, an organization of about 
125 members, holds its race meets at the Stadium on alter- 
nate Sundays. Half a dozen races are likely to occur. This 
is one of the principal driving clubs of the State. Its meets 
alternate with those of the California Driving Club, so that 
the race track is in use every Sunday. 

The Park Amateur Driving Club holds race meets, with 
from twelve to twenty horses entered, at the Stadium on 
alternate Saturday afternoons during the summer. 

BOWLING ON THE GREEN. 
This pleasant sport is pursued on the Bowling Green in 
Golden Gate Park all the year round by members of the San 
Francisco Scottish Bowling Club, on Wednesdays, Saturdays 



252 Handbook for San Francisco 

and holidays. Many tournaments, for prizes, are held during 
the summer. 

RIFLE AND REVOLVER SHOOTING. 

The San Francisco Scheutzen Verein, organized in 1858, 
shoots at Shellmound Park, Emeryville, on the Southern 
Pacific ferry and suburban line, every Sunday the year around. 
Several clubs shoot at this park, and almost any of them is 
glad of the participation of visitors interested in the sport. 
On Tuesday evening there is indoor revolver shooting at the 
same place, and on Thursday evening indoor rifle shooting. 
To reach Shellmound Park, 

TaJ^e California loop train, connecting at Oal^land pier Tvith 
Southern Pacific ferr^ from the foot of Market street. 

The California Scheutzen Club owns a park near San 
Rafael, in Marin county, on the Northwestern Pacific, and 
meets there on the first and third Sundays of the month. 

There has recently been organized the Panama-Pacific In- 
ternational Shooting Association, which will hold a great in- 
ternational shooting festival during the exposition in 1915. 

TRAP SHOOTING, 

Over 200,000 blue rocks are smashed every year by the 
trap shooters of San Francisco — more, it is said, than in 
any other city in the country. Trap shooting occurs at the 
grounds of the Golden Gate Gun Club, Webster street and 
Atlantic avenue, Alameda, on Saturdays from 1 to 5 p. m., 
and all day on Sunday. 

Take Southern Pacific ferr^ to Alameda mole, and '* Lin- 
coln Loop'' train to Webster street station, and walk north 
about six blocks. 

Any one living within fifty miles is eligible to join. Visitors 
from a greater distance pay a small charge for trapping targets. 
All standard loads can be bought at the grounds. If a visitor 
has no gun one will be found for him. 

Visiting railroad men will find the Traffic Gun Club shoot- 
ing here on the first Saturday in the month. 



sports 253 

MOUNTAINEERING FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 

Within easy reach of this city is one of the great mountain 
ranges of the world, the Sierra Nevadas, with higher peaks 
than the American Rockies, and stretches of scenery not sur- 
passed by that of the Alps. There are many peaks over 
12,000 feet in height, and two, Shasta and Whitney, over 
1 4,000. There are beautiful lakes and meadows, wonder- 
fully prolific trout streams, and great forests of the Sequoia 
Gigantea, the Big Trees of California, the largest living organ- 
isms and to be found nowhere else. 

Added to these attractions is the superlative one of fine 
climate. No other mountain region has such reliable weather. 
It is so free from storms, and offers such a succession of 
opportunities for travel throughout the long summers that the 
Sierra Club, the leader in organized mountaineering in Cali- 
fornia, conducts its summer outings without tents — a great 
advantage in respect to the twin problems of transportation and 
economy. 

San Francisco is the best place from which to seek the 
thrilling experiences of the California mountains. The Sierra 
are readily acessible from here, by railroad, to places well into 
the middle altitudes. In this city can be obtained the most 
authentic and complete information on the subject from the 
officers of the Sierra Club, and from its library, which can 
be found by consulting the index. 



ROUND ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. 

In the following pages we have endeavored to give some 
idea of what may be done by a visitor that has but a few 
days at his disposal, to see some of the best and most char- 
acteristic parts of California, lying close to this city. 

Everywhere it is a land of beauty and of charm. Many of 
the most attractive localities are within a day's journey of 
San Francisco, and others can be visited on a trip of two or 
three days. 



254 HandbooI( for San Francisco 

A traveler that has the time should not neglect the romantic 
Mt. Shasta region, through the upper Sacramento Valley by 
the Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company, nor the 
wonderful Feather River Canyon, newly opened to travel by 
the Western Pacific railroad. Some trips closer to the city 
will be found farther along in this volume. 



EXCURSION ON THE BAY. 

A delightful voyage of three and a half or four hours on 
San Francisco Bay, within sight of its cities, islands and 
neighboring hills, can be made by special excursion steamers 
leaving from points near the Ferry building. Three companies 
conduct these excursions at present, and probably there will 
be many more of them before the exposition opens, for no city 
in the world commands such a fine sheet of water for this sort 
of cruising. The customary price is $ I . 

The usual course includes the northern waterfront. Expo- 
sition site, Fort Scott, the Golden Gate, Sausalito, Raccoon 
Straits, across the Bay to Winehaven and Richmond, and 
back to the San Francisco side, passing near Yerba Buena 
island with its naval training station, light house and buoy 
depot. 

You are apt to pass a torpedo boat flotilla at anchor at 
Sausalito, and battleships anchored off the southern water 
front at San Francisco, and in returning will run past the 
Union Iron Works, where the "Oregon" and the "Olympia" 
were built. Lecturers explain all points of interest on these 
trips. 



FERRY LINES, BAY AND RIVER STEAMBOATS. 

The suburban transportation services connecting San Fran- 
cisco with the east shore communities are probably the finest 
that exist, and tempt the traveler to the calm half-hour voyage 
across the Bay. The ferry boats are large and commodious; 



Ferr^ Lines 255 

and at night, weaving back and forth with their hundreds of 
electric lights full on, they make a fairy-like spectacle, only 
exceeded in brilliance by the sparkling lamps flung broadcast 
over the hills of San Francisco, which one sees from the 
water on the return trip in the evening. 

Boats leave the Ferry building at the foot of Market street, 
some running north to Sausalito, others northeast to Richmond, 
and others east to Oakland and Alameda piers, where they 
connect by electric trains with Oakland, Alameda, Melrose, 
Fruitvale, Piedmont and Berkeley. The lines operating these 
ferries are the Southern Pacific, the Key System, the Atchison, 
Topeka and Santa Fe and the Western Pacific. 

The following directions will assist visitors to make use 
of the ferries and river boats, which afford some of the enjoy- 
able experiences of a visit to San Francisco: 

Southern Pacific Ferr^ System. Boats leave from the right 
of the main entrance of the Ferry building at twenty and 
thirty minute intervals throughout the day for Oakland and 
Alameda piers, where they connect with trains for Oakland, 
Melrose, Alameda, Berkeley and way stops, including Fruit- 
vale, Stonehurst, Elmhurst, Fitchburg, Emeryville, Shellmound 
Park, Northbrae, Thousand Oaks, and Albany. This is the 
most extensive ferry and electric train system in the country, 
the boats connecting with 826 electric trains a day. The 
mechanical equipment, including steel cars throughout, is the 
finest to be found in such service. 

Automobiles are taken only on the Oakland Harbor Ferry 
of the Southern Pacific, which runs half hourly from the foot 
of Mission street, south of the Ferry building, to the foot of 
Broadway, Oakland, from 6 a, m. to 9 p. m., week days, 
and up to 11 p. m., Sundays. After these hours, autos are 
admitted to the regular Oakland ferry. 

Xe\j S})stem. Boats leave the Ferry building, foot of 
Market street, (left of main entrance) at fifteen or twenty 
minute intervals during the day, beginning on the even hour, 
and connect at the Key System pier with electric trains for 



256 Handbook for San Francisco 

Berkeley, Oakland, Piedmont, Claremont, Northbrae, Al- 
bany and Richmond. 

Northrvestern Pacific Ferr\) (Sausalito) : Boats leave the 
Ferry building, foot of Market street (toward north end of 
building) at 30-minute intervals during the morning and after- 
noon, and hourly during the middle of the day, and connect 
at Sausalito vv^ith trains for Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Healds- 
burg, Cloverdale, Ukiah, Willits, Longvale and Sherwood; 
and, by branch lines, for Guerneville, Sebastopol and Sonoma 
Valley points. 

San Rafael, San Anselmo, Larkspur, Ross, Mill Valley 
and Fairfax are reached by this route. Look for the name 
of your destination on the train boards at Sausalito. 

From Sausalito there is an hourly ferry to Tiburon and 
Belvedere. From Tiburon trains leave for Hilarita, Reed, 
San Clemente, Green Brae, Schuetzen Park and San Rafael. 
For Sausalito there are eight boats every week day and ten 
on Sundays. 

Mt. Tamalpais and the Muir Woods are reached from Mill 
Valley via the Sausalito ferry, by three trains a day. 

Stage conection for the State prison at San Quentin is made 
twice daily at Greenbrae. 

Santa Fe Ferr^ (Local service). Boats leave the Ferry 
building, foot of Market street, for Ferry Point, and there 
connect with trains for Richmond. There are eight boats a 
day. 

Western Pacific. Four ferry boats a day leave the north- 
ernmost slip. Ferry building, and connect with the overland 
trains of this company. 

California Navigation and Improvement Company. For 
Stockton, Antioch, Pittsburg, Crockett, Benicia, Martinez, 
Bay Point and way landings. Boat leaves Washington street 
wharf, north of the Ferry building, daily except Sundays at 
6 p. m. Office, foot of Washington street, north of Ferry 
building. 



River Steamboats 257 



California Transportation Company. For Sacramento, and 
river landings, and connecting with Northern Electric railroad 
for Marysville, Yuba City, Oroville and Chico. Boats leave 
Jackson street wharf at 5 p. m. daily except Sundays. 

Sacramento River Steamers; Netherlands Route. (South- 
ern Pacific). Boats leave Pacific street wharf daily except 
Sundays at I p. m. and 9 p. m., and daily except Sundays 
and Wednesdays at 8:30 a. m. 

Monticello Steamship Company. Vallejo (en route to Mare 
Island) and connecting with San Francisco, Napa and Calis- 
toga railway (electric) to Napa, St. Helena and Calistoga. 
Boats leave foot of Merchant street, north of Ferry building. 
(Ferry runs every hour from Vallejo to Mare Island Navy 
Yard.) 

Napa Transportation Company. For Napa, Vallejo and 
Mare Island. Boats leave Mission street wharf, south of the 
Ferry building, at 5 p. m., daily except Sundays; touch at 
Mare Island Navy Yard and run up Napa creek to Napa. 

Petaluma and Santa Rosa Railway. For Petaluma, and 
connecting with P. & S. R. electric line to Sebastopol and 
Santa Rosa, Graton and Forestville. Boats leave Washing- 
ton street bulkhead daily, except Sundays, at 11 a. m. and 
4 p. m. 



CITIES OF THE EAST SHORE. 

Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley, Richmond, Piedmont, Hay- 
ward and their outlying suburbs 

Can he reached by the Southern Pacific or the Key System 
ferry, leaving the Ferry building at the foot of Market street, 
and connecting rvith electric suburban trains. The Southern 
Pacific ferry depot is in the Ferry building to the south, or 
right of the center as you approach down Market street; the 
Key System depot is to the north of the center. Boats of each 
system run every twenty minutes. Fare, ten cents. The auto- 



258 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

mobile ferr^ is operated from a slip at the foot of Mission 
street^ south of the Ferry building. 

The cities of the east side of the bay are an important and 
interesting part of the community that is growing up in the 
San Francisco bay basin. 

Their recent growth has been rapid. Oakland has, in fact, 
outgrown its suburban relationship, and become a city of 
importance, with a population estimated in 1913 at 200,000. 
Berkeley has about 40,000 inhabitants and Alameda over 
23,000. 

Up the Bay shore, north of Berkeley, is Richmond, with 
its factories and shops. Southward out of Oakland are the 
towns of Hayward, San Leandro, San Lorenzo, Niles and 
Mission San Jose. 

From almost any elevation in San Francisco one can see 
across the Bay, in clear weather, the Oakland City Hall, one 
of the tallest buildings west of New York. It stands in a 
park in the heart of the city, at the corner of Washington and 
Fourteenth streets. It is 335 feet to the top of the lantern 
and cupola, and 376 feet to the cluster of lights that shine 
abroad every night from the top of the steel mast surmounting 
the whole. From the cupola one can see into nine counties 
surrounding the bay — Alameda, Marin, Sonoma, Napa, So- 
lano, Contra Costa, Santa Clara, San Mateo and San Fran- 
cisco. 

Oakland has a very extensive street car system that enables 
you to go almost anywhere on the east side of the Bay, from 
Berkeley to Hayward. For five cents you can ride from the 
northerly limits of Berkeley, through Oakland to the upper 
end of Fruitvale, a distance of twenty miles. 

Generally speaking, the whole street railway system is 
brought to a focus at Thirteenth and Broadway, or at corners 
within a block of that one, and this is the key to transporta- 
tion for the traveler in Oakland. You reach this point either 
on the /Cep System to Twelfth and Broadway, a block south 
of Thirteenth, or by the Southern Pacific to Seventh and 



Cities of the East Shore 259 

Broadiva}^ and trolley from there to Twelfth street. The 
Hayward car, the Dimond Canyon, the Mills College, the 
Piedmont, the Alameda, the University, the College avenue 
and several more lines afford delightful rides from Oakland in 
every direction. 

The Grand avenue car will take you to Lakeside Park, on 
Adams Point, at the north end of Lake Merritt, one of the 
beauty spots of Califorina. 

Oakland's Free Library, at Fourteenth and Grove streets, is 
worth a visit for the fine mural paintings it contains. 

The Municipal Museum is on Oak street north of Thir- 
teenth. It has a great collection of Indian basketry, besides 
colonial, Indian and South Sea work. Open on week days 
from 10 to 5, and on Sundays from 2 to 6 in the afternoon. 
Admittance is free. 

Idora Park is the largest amusement park in the West, has 
a good theater where opera bouffe is occasionally given, and is 
a paradise for children. During the summer light opera is 
given in the open air without other charge than the park ad- 
mittance fee. 

Young Mens Christian Association, Telegraph avenue and 
Hobart street. Can be reached by the Telegraph and Shat- 
tuck avenue cars. At Fourteenth and Castro streets is the 
home of the Young Women's Christian Association. 

The Hotel Oakland, recently completed at a cost of about 
a million and a half, occupies the block between Thirteenth 
and Fourteenth, and Alice and Harrison streets. Its large 
banquet halls are the scene of the civic festivities and social 
life of the east shore city. Other good hotels are the St. 
Mark, at Twelfth and Franklin streets; the Metropole, at 
Thirteenth and Jefferson ; the Athens, at Broadway and Fif- 
teenth; the Crellin, at Eighth and Washington; the A.dams, 
on Twelfth, between Jefferson and Clay; the Arcade, at San 
Pablo and Twentieth, and the Key Route Inn, at Broadway 
and Twenty-second. 



260 



Handbook for San Francisco 



Opposite the Hotel Oakland is the Oakland Chamber of 
Commerce, at 245 Thirteenth street. Nobody should visit 
Oakland without seeing this place, and its collection of "pro- 
cessed" flowers and small fruits. 

Twelfth street is the eastward outlet of Oakland through 
East Oakland with its fine old residences and down the shore 




ACROSS THE BAY, FROM NOB HILL. 

of the Bay. The Hayward car, from Twelfth and Broad- 
way, will take you on a beautiful ride through the cherry 
orchards of San Leandro to the thriving town of Ha^xvard, 
thirteen miles south of the city. At Broadmoor, on the way, 
is one of Luther Burbank's experimental farms. 

Hayward is also on the Foothill Boulevard, one of the en- 
joyable things of Oakland for those that have automobiles 
or care to hire them. Near Hayward is the State Game 
Farm. 

South of Hayward the automobile highway continues to 
Niles, where is located the California Nursery, the largest 
jingle block of land devoted to nursery purposes in the country. 



Cities of the East Shore 261 

It makes a bewildering display of citrus and deciduous fruit 
stock, amid flourishing palms and semi-tropical plants of many 
interesting varieties. 

In this favored strip of country is situated the old Mission 
San Jose (not near, nor connected with, the city of San Jose), 
where there are many interesting souvenirs of early Spanish 
times. In the cemetery are the graves of the Bernals, the 
Alvisos and other old Spanish families. 

Mission San Jose is near Irvington station on the Southern 
Pacific, whence one can reach *'Palmdale,'' a private estate 
on which there is such a luxuriant growth of tropical plants 
that travelers have gone long distances to see it. With its 
palm and olive groves, some of the trees of which are 1 00 
years old, this is one of the most interesting sights of the 
eastern shore of the Bay. A stage runs from Irvington. 

These places of distinctively Californian beauty and charm 
beyond Hayward are best reached by automobile, down the 
Foothill Boulevard, which connects with fine automobile roads 
clear to San Jose and beyond. 

Riding out East Fourteenth street, one catches glimpses 
to southward, of many masts of vessels rising from the water 
at the foot of every street. These lie in Oakland's inner 
harbor, connected with the Bay by the "Estuary," a channel 
thirty feet deep and eight hundred feet wide. This is the 
locality of many of the scenes in Jack London's novel, "John 
Barleycorn." 

The Oakland Baseball Park is at San Pablo and Park 
avenues. The grand stand is an exceptionally fine structure. 
The park can be reached by the San Pablo avenue cars from 
any point on Broadway south of Fourteenth street, or by the 
Ke}) System ferr}) from San Francisco. 

The residence section about Piedmont and Piedmont Park 
is one of the most attractive in the country, with handsome 
homes set in green gardens where palm trees and roses flourish. 
This district can also be reached from the center of the city, 
by the Piedmont avenue cars. 



262 Handbook for San Francisco 

Claremont, a sheltered cove of the hills north of Oakland, 
is another beautiful suburb. Here is rising a great tourist 
hotel in a superb location, amid the most attractive surround- 
ings. Claremont can be reached by the Xep System ferr}) 
direct from San Francisco, or by the Telegraph avenue line 
from the center of Oakland, transferring at Ashby to a car 
bound east. North of Claremont is the State institution for 
the deaf, dumb and blind. 

The Walnut Creek and Mount Diablo country^ can be 
seen to good advantage from the cars of the Oakland & An- 
tioch electric railroad, leaving from the Key System pier. 

Across Oakland's estuary harbor, to the southward, is 

Alameda. This fine residence city can be reached by trolley 
car from Oakland, running south on Washington street, the 
first street west of Broadway, or by Southern Pacific ferry 
from San Francisco, taking the boat to Alameda pier. 

One of the "sights" of Alameda is the arctic fleet of the 
Alaska Packers Association in her harbor; and the ship-build- 
ing plants along her water front are another. Yachting, canoe- 
ing and swimming are popular sports in the warm waters of 
the Bay, along the south shore, and give the place a distinctly 
aquatic character. 

The Alameda Baths, a fine outdoor place for a swim, can be 
reached from San Francisco by taking the Southern Pacific 
ferry to Alameda pier and the Encinal Loop train to the 
second stop, at Fifth street 

The Horseshoe route of the Southern Pacific ferry system 
offers a good way to see part of Alameda and the growing 
industrial district about Oakland Harbor. 

Take the ferry to Alameda Pier and there take the train 
marked '* Horseshoe.'' 



KEY TROLLEY TRIP. 

One of the most enjoyable and profitable ways to see the 
cities of the eastern shore is by means of the Key Trolley 



Ke}) Trolley Trip 263 



Trip, personally conducted, under the management of the San 
Francisco-Oakland Terminal Railways. 

The trip takes a day and costs a dollar. The excursion 
leaves by the Key System ferry, at the foot of Market street, 
at 10 o'clock a. m., and returns to San Francisco at 4:50. 
A stop is made at the Key Route Inn, Oakland, for luncheon. 
All other expenses are included in the original charge. 

Sixty-eight miles are covered in the day's journey, including 
the transit of the bay on one of the Key System's ferry steam- 
ers. Berkeley, Northbrae, Thousand Oaks, Claremont, Oak- 
land, Piedmont, Melrose, San Leandro and Hayward are 
visited; all interesting and beautiful cities and suburbs. If 
one misses the 1 o'clock trip, another starts at 1 p. m. and 
joins the first, omitting the Berkeley part of the journey. 

At Piedmont is a beautiful park, and one of the principal 
art collections in the West. Melrose has an ostrich farm, 
which is one of the places visited. 



PIEDMONT PARK AND THE HAVENS ART 
COLLECTION. 

Situated in the hills northeast of Oakland, east side of the 
Bay; open from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. (Park closes at 6:30 p. 
m. ) Admittance to park, 1 cents for adults, 5 cents for 
children between 5 and 1 4 ; under 5 years, free. Admittance 
to art gallery, 1 cents. 

Cross the Bay, either by Southern Pacific or Key System 
ferry. Take Piedmont avenue trolley line, either at Seventh 
and Broadway station of the Southern Pacific, or at the end 
of the Piedmont branch of the Key System. 

There is a club house and a popular-price cafe, an open 
air amphitheater, where *'al fresco" performances sometimes 
take place, a children's playground, with donkeys to ride and 
pony carts. 



264 Handbook for San Francisco 

Directly across from the gate house, one passes the sulphur 
springs, and the band stand, where open air concerts are 
given every Sunday from 1 to 4 p. m. ; and beyond that is 
the Art Gallery. Beyond the art gallery there is a basketball 
field, and a tennis court. 

PIEDMONT ART GALLERY. 

This collection, brought together by Mr. Frank C. Havens, 
of Oakland, is housed in a building 400 feet long, of ten 
chambers, in which there now hang some 450 paintings. Among 
other good thmgs it contains a Julien Dupre, a Corregio, a 
Paulus Potter from the Hoe collection of New York, and a 
portrait by Jansen Van Ceulen from the same collection. 
Possibly more interesting than these from some standpoints 
are a number of Russian canvases that were part of the St. 
Louis Exposition. 

Another delight of artist visitors is Hans Hansen's "Interior 
of a Copenhagen Restaurant.'' 

One of the popular pieces is a large painting of the cats 
once belonging to Mrs. Kate Johnson of San Francisco, en- 
titled, "My Wife's Lovers." 

Old San Franciscans will remember the "Sampson and 
Delilah," by Jacobs, which hung in Hackett's Palace of Art 
on Post street near Montgomery before the fire. In the upper 
right hand corner are a couple of small rents in the canvas, 
said to be bullet holes. This painting made its debut in the 
Bank Exchange, at the corner of Montgomery and Wash- 
ington streets, San Francisco. It was purchased by Milton 
S. Latham, one of the early Governors of the State, and 
resold by him to Hackett. 

California artists are well represented, and a painting that 
never fails to awaken the delight of the lovers of the scenery 
of the bay region, as well as the admiration of all artists that 
see it, is Thad Welch's "Tamalpais." 

There is a William Keith of forty years ago: "The Cali- 
fornian Alps." It is of the beginning of the Keiths, and 



The University) of California 



265 



shows his early mastery of the structure of the mountains and 
the rocks. 

Space will not permit a full enumeration, but a picture lover 
will find enough here to delight him for several hours. 




THE HEAIJST (JHEKK THHATHH, I5EHKKLEV. 



BERKELEY AND THE UNIVERSITY OF CALI- 
FORNIA—THE HEARST GREEK THEATER. 

This will make a most enjoyable day's outing from San 
Francisco, and is an experience no visitor to this locality should 
miss. 

To reach Berkeley, take either the Southern Pacific ferry 
or the Key System ferry from the foot of Market street, and 
the Berkeley train, on the Oakland mole of either line. 

Before visiting the University it is well to get an idea of the 
city and of bay geography, and to see at the same time one 
of the best views of San Francisco Bay by taking a trolley 



266 



Handbook for San Francisco 




MAP OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 



The Hearst Greek Theater 267 

ride on the Cragmont car, of the Euclid avenue line, which 
you can board on University avenue at Shattuck. 

The University of California occupies 520 acres on the 
slopes of the Berkeley hills, commanding a view of the Bay 
of San Francisco and some times far out to sea ; one of the 
grandest and most inspiring locations for an institution of 
this kind. 

There are groves of pine, eucalyptus and ancient oaks. The 
architecture of the new buildings is imposing and beautiful. 

The world-famous Creef( Theater, gift of William Ran- 
dolph Hearst, lies eastward of the main buildings, in a hollow 
of Charter Hill, once known as Ben Weed's Amphitheater. 
It seats 8,000 people, and here have appeared such artists as 
Schumann-Heink, Gadski, Nordica, Tetrazzini, Bispham, 
Wullner, Petchinikoff, Beel, Adele Verne, Josef Hoffman, 
Myrtle Elvyn, the Ben Greet players, Constance Crawley, 
Nance O'Neill, Maude Adams, Margaret Anglin and Sarah 
Bernhardt — some of the greatest players of the world, in their 
greatest roles. 

California Field, scene of football contests, is south of the 
old campus. It seats 24,000 spectators. North of the field 
is the California Museum of Vertebrate Zoology, with more 
than 24,000 birds and 1 9,000 mammals of the Pacific Coast. 
Not far away, in a galvanized iron building, is a most inter- 
esting Museum of Casts, showing the beauties of Greek and 
Roman sculpture — the gift of Mrs. Phoebe Hearst. 

THE CHRISTIAN SCIENCE CHURCH OF BERKELEY. 

No one should leave Berkeley, (or for that matter, San 
Francisco), without a visit to the Christian Science church at 
Bowditch street and Dwight Way; a shrine of beauty that 
would be famous if it were in Europe. It is easily reached by 
either the College avenue or the Telegraph avenue line, being 
about half way between them, and may be viewed on applica- 
tion to the janitor any afternoon except Sundays and Wednes- 
days. 



268 Handbook for San Francisco 

It is one of the works of B. R. Maybeck, architect of the 
Palace of Fine Arts at the Panama-Pacific Exposition. The 
exterior reveals surprising originality in timbering and trellising, 
and in the concrete window traceries. Inside there is a startling 
boldness of composition and color. Masses of gildmg flung 
aloft on beams and trusses and concrete screens, splashes of 
emerald and vermilion, delicate blues, and gouts of madder, 
and mingled elements of Gothic and rich Byzantine done in 
a spirit of prodigal exuberance, convey a resistless, uplifting 
sense of joyousness and vitality. 

All the backgrounds are a soft and gentle gray. The walls 
and floors are gray, the principal columns and pilasters are 
gray, the pews are gray, the open timbering is gray, and 
gray light filters through the wide windows; until the whole 
colorful glory of it seems to swim in a cool and pearly mist. 
Free from precedent or convention, this edifice is the embodi- 
ment of the new artistic spirit of the West; large, vigorous, 
spontaneous, reaching heights of beauty possibly unattainable 
through more orthodox methods. 



SAN LEANDRO AND LAKE CHABOl . 

A pleasant day's outing, involving a visit to the pretty town 
of San Leandro, across the bay, and a walk of about a mile 
into the Alameda county hills, can be made with Lake Chabot 
as its objective. 

Take Southern Pacific ferr]^ to Oakland Mole, and San 
Leandro train from there, fcp ipap of Havenscourt and Broad- 
moor. Get off at Estudillo avenue, San Leandro, and walk 
north. 

Crossing the Foothill Boulevard, which runs out from Oak- 
land, take the hill road, a continuation of Estudillo avenue, and 
turn to the right at the first fork. If going by automobile, 
leave the Foothill Boulevard at old Hunters' Inn, just beyond 
the concrete bridge, and climb the hill road, turning to the 
right at the first opportunity. 



Richmond 269 

Lake Chabot is the reservoir from which the cities of Oak- 
land, Alameda and Berkeley are supplied with water. It 
stands 328 feet above sea level, a'-d has a capacity, up to the 
spillway, of eight billion gallons. It is four and one-half miles 
long and twelve miles around. 

The lake is set in rolling hills, timbered in places, but with 
much open country and rounded, brushy knolls. Two long 
blue wings reach far up into romantic canyons. The tributary 
water-shed has an extent of 48 square miles. 

A day could easily be spent on a jaunt to this pretty spot, 
and through the level lands about San Leandro, which are set 
thick with cherry and apricot orchards and in Spring are a 
wilderness of perfumed blossoms. The Estudillo House at 
San Leandro, preserving the name of the old Spanish family 
of this locality, is a good place for luncheon. 



RICHMOND, A NEW INDUSTRIAL GROWTH. 

Richmond, Contra Costa county, has grown from a wheat 
field to an industrial city of 15,000 people in about twelve 
years. No better example exists of the robust expansion of 
industry about San Francisco Bay during the last decade, and 
any one interested in the development of modern industrial 
plants will be able to find some of their highest types here. 

A round trip to Richmond can be made very comfortably 
by the Atchison, TopeJ^a and Santa Fe ferry from the foot 
of Market street, for forty-five cents. There are two boats 
in the morning to Ferry Point, in Contra Costa county, whence 
a train will convey you to the town, and two returning in the 
afternoon, so that you can have several hours to inspect the 
neighborhood. The town is also on the Southern Pacific Rail- 
road, and in addition, can be reached by way of the Keyi 
System. 

The Santa Fe has great repair shops here. The Richmond 
refinery of the Standard Oil Company is the largest west of 



270 Handhool^ for San Francisco 

New Jersey and is destined to become the greatest in the world. 
It covers, already, 300 acres of ground, laid out in streets and 
blocks, and receives crude oil from the Kern County fields 
by a pipe line 260 miles long. 

In the outskirts, at Pullman, are the western shops of the 
Pullman Palace Car company, the principal establishment of 
this concern west of the Mississippi. The industrial develop- 
ment that has its larger nucleus at Richmond extends clear up 
the bay shore to Bay Point, Antioch, Pittsburg and similar 
points. It is San Francisco extended. 

At Winehaven, a suburb with which Richmond is con- 
nected by a belt railroad, are the great cellars of the California 
Wine Association ; the largest wine vaults in the world, and 
the central plant of the world's largest wine making organiza- 
tion. Both grapes and wine are brought here from the Asso- 
ciation's vineyards and wineries all over California. Among 
the huge redwood tuns in these cellars are twelve miles of 
passages, and the storage capacity is about ten million gallons. 
The shipping capacity is over 500,000 gallons a month, and 
between six and eight million gallons go out every year to all 
parts of the world. Sixty-seven kinds of wine are shipped from 
this plant, and from its pier forty or more ships annually sail 
for New York alone. 

Winehaven is rather difficult for the traveler to reach from 
Richmond, but is usually one of the features of a bay ex- 
cursion. 



SAUSALITO, THE *'SORRENTO OF AMERICA." 

Sausalito, six miles north of San Francisco, is the water- 
gate to Marin, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lake and Humboldt 
counties; in fact to all that infinitely varied and attractive 
country made accessible by the Northwestern Pacific railroad. 
In addition it is an entrancing villa suburb only 30 minutes 
from San Francisco, set amid oak groves by the water-side. 



Sausalito 271 

on hills that rise directly from the bay and that command 
views as fine as any to be found on that famous Route de la 
Corniche which Napoleon built along the Riviera from Nice 
to Mentone. 

After seeing San Francisco a visitor could hardly do bet- 
ter with a day's time than to make a ferry trip to Sausalito and 
take the trails from there to heights overlooking the Bay and 
the Golden Gate, and on toward the Ocean. Or, if one 
wishes to see Belvedere, with its villas, and its orange, lemon 
and grapefruit trees, it can be reached by an hourly boat from 
Sausalito. To reach the latter place. 

Take Sausalito ferry (Northwestern Pacific) from the 
Ferry building, north of the main entrance. 

Boats run every half hour through the morning and even- 
ing; hourly during the middle of the day. The round trip 
fare is 25 cents. 

On this trip, one of the most interesting by ferry, you pass 
along the northern piers and the old grain sheds, obtaining a 
close view of some big shipping, and of the industrial and 
commercial part of the city that lies at the base of Telegraph 
Hill. You pass eastward of Alcatraz Island, close to the 
military prison; and westward of Angel Island. 

Approaching the landing slip, you pass gay white yachts 
at anchor, and perhaps lean, gray torpedo boats and hungry- 
looking four-funneled destroyers. The San Francisco Yacht 
club has its club house here. 

All over the hill slopes, peeping from groves of low- 
growing oaks, are villas and bungalows, between which the 
steeps are scaled by long flights of stairs. 

At Sausalito you can get automobiles or horses; or, if you 
are even but an average walker, you will find here the begin- 
ning of two paths that will show you grand scenery. 

Suppose you go afoot, as far as you choose, on the 
short cut to Fort Barry, which is situated near Point Bonita, 
the northern outer headland corresponding to Point Lobos. 
The road goes over the hills. To reach it, take Excelsior 



272 Handbook for San Francisco 

Lane, beginning at a flight of wooden steps directly west of 
the little rock-walled palm garden near the ferry landing. You 
mount by one flight after another, crossing Buckley avenue 
and Harrison avenue, between the bungalows and the thick- 
eted hillside gardens, until you come to San Carlos avenue. 
Here turn to the left, on San Carlos, and then take Spencer 
avenue, the first turn to the right, and follow it around the bend 
and up the hill. At the plank-covered reservoir keep to the 
right-hand road. A trail marked Bonita Point takes off 
to the left, but while it is more direct, the road makes an 
easier ascent. 

Looking back from these hillsides the view is one of 
magnificence. Through northward hill-gaps, Tamalpais ap- 
pears in one of its loveliest aspects, ridged and wooded, seamed 
with great canyons, and with placid, verdant Mill Valley 
flowing sinuously toward the bay. Richardson's bay itself 
is like a mountain lake, from here. You will look up Raccoon 
straits, between Belvedere and Angel Island, to San Pablo 
bay — "up river direct" the shipping men call it, for into San 
Pablo bay the waters of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin 
rivers find their way to the larger bay below. Point Pedro 
runs out from the left, and opposite one can see the oil tanks 
at Richmond, directly across the water. 

South of Angel Island you look across to Berkeley and 
Oakland and the long range of hills crouching behind them. 
This is a beautiful view at night, when the foothills are 
strewn with lights like swarms of fireflies. Far to the south 
appears the Oakland city hall. Over the hills behind Oakland 
can be seen the crest of Mt. Diablo. 

Alcatraz is in the foreground, and back of it is Yerba 
Buena island, which the ferry boats pass on their way to 
Oakland and Berkeley. Lastly, as you turn southward, you 
see what appears to be the tip of a long peninsula, crowned 
with houses. It is San Francisco's Telegraph Hill, standing 
like a sentry where the great ships pass to reach the city's 
eastern and southern docks. 



)ausa 



lito 273 



Other water scenes there are that show us vastness and 
inimitable distance, but they lack the Hmrtations that make 
this view a matchless composition. Water-scapes need boun- 
dary, and this one has it — a frame of the eternal hills and at 
least one mighty mountain, making the noblest setting it is 
possible to conceive. Straits, islands, ships, cities, and hills 
and valleys spread themselves before you in such a panorama 
as one can find nowhere else. Not even the view from 
Virgil's tomb across the Bay of Naples can compare with this. 

Over upland pastures you may go, through tempting stiles 
and by land covered with wild flowers in Spring, catching 
glimpses of the city or the sand dunes beyond the Park, and 
seeing cupped in notches of the hills, bits of sapphire which 
are the waters of the Golden Gate. Soon the ocean bursts 
upon you ; and the dazzling brightness of it may lure you on 
to Rodeo lagoon or Tennessee Cove if you are fond of roving. 

We can give you no permission to pass over these private 
lands, but it has heretofore been the careless and comfort- 
able California practice to take such permission for granted. 

Past Rodeo lagoon (the long sheet of water that seems 
cut in from the ocean) the road leads down to Fort Barry 
and Point Bonita, and from here one can take the lower 
road back by way of Fort Baker. It is worth while, how- 
ever, to return as you came, for the sake of the shifting scenes 
as you descend. 

If you are an American citizen, with proper identification, 
you can visit the defenses at any of the forts around the bay 
by application to the authorities at the post you desire to visit. 
Cameras must be left at home. 

On application to the authorities at Forts Baker and Barry 
a limited number of automobiles may be permitted to pass 
over the public road; which, however, will be found to be 
narrow — too narrow at many points west of the Fort Baker 
garrison proper, to allow two vehicles to pass. 

To reach Fort Baker, directly from Sausalito, follow Water 
street southward froni the town and turn to the left at South 



274 Handboot( for San Francisco 

street. The reservation line is marked by distinctive signs 
and an iron gate. There are about two thousand acres in 
the Forts Baf^er and Barry reservation, extending from Sau- 
salito to the Pacific Ocean. The portion east of Point Diablo 
is known as Fort Baker, and west of it as Fort Barry. 

Here you breast the hills and mount until you top a ridge, 
and see in a pretty hollow beneath you the barracks and 
guard house and the officers' quarters of the post. 

A few hundred yards beyond a little wharf you see the 
Needles, and Lime Point Light House. Here, and just west- 
ward, is the narrowest and deepest part of the Golden Gate, 
where the tides, and the volume of water brought down by 
the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, keep the channel 
scoured to a depth of 63 fathoms. 

Near the Needles the road winds up and around the hill 
at about a ten per cent grade, and after a mile of it you find 
yourself just above the Light House, whence you look down 
on the Golden Gate and the little antiquated brick structure 
opposite on Fort Point, known as Fort Winfield Scott, built 
before the Civil War. 

Keeping to the right after passing this bluff, and following 
the fence, one reaches Fort Barry garrison, after a journey 
of some seven miles from Sausalito. 

Two miles farther is Point Bonita, with its Light House. 
This point is farther westward than the seal rocks; and here 
if. an interesting relic of former days: an old cannon used 
in 1850 as the first fog signal anywhere near the Golden Gate. 

If the pedestrian on the jaunt to Fort Barry will leave the 
main road at the divide a little over two miles west of Fort 
Baker garrison, and take the path around Diablo, he will be 
rewarded by a view surpassingly beautiful. 

Across the Golden Gate, in the foreground, and to the left, 
stretch the wooded hillsides of the Presidio. Farther on is 
spread the fairy-land of the Panama-Pacific Exposition. 
Then comes the city, and to eastward of it, the Bay with its 
islands and the cities of the eastern shore. 



Ml Tamalpais 275 



The crowning feature of the scene is San Francisco itself, 
or at least the part of it that appears along its northern edge. 
From Harbor View to Telegraph Hill the houses stretch, block 
after block of them, climbing the hills to the crenelated sky- 
line in great, square platoons. Shipping from the seven seas 
is scattered along the city's base. Smoke from hundreds of fac- 
tories and mills goes up into its shifting atmosphere. As you 
look you realize that this is the one grand imperial position 
for the western metropolis of America — at the gate to the 
Pacific, which is at the same time the gate from the Pacific 
to the western world: the meeting place of continent and ocean, 
a position of power and command almost identical in every 
commercially strategic sense with the position of New York. 

You will be fortunate if, on your return, the day is about 
done and you get the ferry back to San Francisco in the early 
evening. It is a wondrous thing to see the city veiled, like 
a sorceress, in twilight mists, the sky above the Golden Gate 
red with the glow of a dying California day, and Alcatraz 
throbbing its five-second pulses of light to homing mariners 
twenty miles at sea. 



MT. TAMALPAIS AND THE MUIR WOODS. 

To Mt. Tamalpais it is six miles by ferry, five miles on 
the electric train, and eight on the Mt. Tamalpais and Muir 
Woods steam railroad; a total of 19 miles. 

From every good view point in San Francisco one can see, 
across the Golden Gate, this lofty height, reared a clean half- 
mile above the waters of the Bay. To be exact, it is 2592 
feet high, only 48 feet less than half a mile, and has every 
effect of being higher because it rises almost directly from 
sea level. And if the vicinity has many and varied beau- 
ties worth hunting out and enjoying one by one, Tamalpais 
shows them all in one splendid picture, and throws on the 
screen for good measure a panorama of the Ocean, the Faral- 



276 



Handbook for San Francisco 




COASTING DOWN TAMALPAIS. 



Ml Tamalpais 111 



lone islands, the Golden Gate, the Exposition site, the Bay 
with its islands and ships, the cities across, the estuary of 
the great rivers, Mts. Hamilton, Diablo and St. Helena, and, 
on clear days, a view straight across the interior valley of Cali- 
fornia to the snow-capped Sierra, one hundred and fifty miles 
away. A circular walk around the peak shows the varied 
features of the surrounding country in rotation. 

Here one sees what might be called the ground plan of 
the greatest landlocked harbor on the Pacific Ocean, and 
of the region surrounding it, destined to play so large a part 
in the affairs of men. 

So much, in passing, for the view. But the view is by 
no means all of Tamalpais. The mountain itself is a domain 
of delight. Open-air plays are given in glades near its summit. 
Forests clothe its shaggy sides with laurel, buckeye, redwood, 
manzanita and that shining green-and-vermilion "gallant of the 
glade," the madrone. Deer and other wild animals run wild 
on the slopes of Tamalpais, within a few minutes' ride of San 
Francisco — and probably they often gaze from the cover of 
these beautiful forests across a narrow sheet of water, upon 
the great white city that bristles on the opposite hills. All 
this within an hour of Market street. Where else in the 
world will you find primeval forests and forest life rubbing 
elbows, as it were, with a great modern city and its hustling 
activities ? 

Tamalpais is a grand hike. With hob-nailed boots, a 
good stick and a haversack for your lunch, take the Sausaliio 
ferry from the foot of Market street and the Northwestern 
Pacific train from Sausalito to Mill Valley, whence the trail 
leads up the mountain. You can get a boat as early as 6:45 
and a connecting train that will land you at the beginning of 
the climb in fifty minutes. 

If it is a Sunday the trail will be thronged. If it is 
Saturday, or for that matter, any other day in the week, you 
will be at no loss for trail companions, for the mountain is the 
playground for thousands of San Franciscans eager as you 



278 



Handhoof( for San Francisco 



are for the crystalline air and the inspiring landscapes that 
open fresh vistas as you mount. 

One can return to the city the same day, or stop over night 
at the Tavern of Tamalpais at the top. 

The same trail part of the way will make another day's 
fine hiking, for a branch takes off from West Point, well 




IN THE MUIH WOODS. 



Til)l)itts, 1 hotu. 



up on the flank of the mountain, and thence descends to Wil- 
low Camp, on Bolinas Bay, where there are accommodations 
for the night. If you go there in summer to remain over, it 
is necessary to make reservations in advance. A stage line 
is also operated to Willow Camp and Bolinas from West 
Point, daily from June to September, and the rest of the year 
connecting with the 1 :45 trip from San Francisco on Sat- 
urday and 2 :45 on Sunday. 



Ml Tamalpais 279 



For those that do not care to tramp it, a most convenient 
and pleasant way to reach the summit is provided by the 
Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway, which runs 
from Mill Valley to Muir Woods and the Tavern. This is 
called the "crookedest railway in the world," and is inter- 
esting in itself as an example of difficult railroad construction. 

The trip takes about two hours, trains connecting with the 
9:45 week day boat and train for Sausalito and Mill Valley, 
and the 8:45 on Sunday. A return can be made the same 
day, but it is a pity to miss the glories of the sunset from 
the top. 

On foggy days it is well worth the journey to look down 
on the sunlit tops of the billows of grey vapor rolling in 
through the Gate and mantling the city and the bay. 

A delightful experience is the coasting ride down the moun- 
tain by the "gravity car" in the early morning after a night 
at the tavern. 

Muir Woods can be reached by a branch line which leaves 
the main railroad at the "double bow knot." This is a stately 
grove of Sequoia Sempervirem^ or California redwood, which 
should, by all means, be seen and enjoyed as one of the main 
attractions of the Bay region. The trees are undoubtedly 
I thousands of years old, and represent the grandest forest 
growths of California, with the exception of the Big Trees 
in the Sierra. The woods are a government reservation and 
thus are preserved for the enjoyment of the public for all 
time. There is a cozy inn on a sunny knoll overlooking the 
forest. All about are shaded walks leading to still and somber 
depths among the redwoods, oaks and madrones. There are 
about 295 acres in the grove, which is one of the most beauti- 
ful of all California's show places. It is a gift to the nation, 
from William E. Kent, of Kentfield, Marin county. 




280 HandbooI( for San Francisco 

MARIN AND SONOMA COUNTIES. THE TRI- 
ANGLE TRIP. 

Wild mountain scenery, forests where deer and quail abound, 
vales of exquisite loveliness in which San Franciscans have 
built rural homes for their families while they themselves 
"commute" it to and from their business, are to be found 
within an hour of the city, in the counties extending up the 
coast from the northern peninsula partly enclosing the bay. 
No other city has such playgrounds and such sylvan retreats 
so near it. 

One of the most interesting trips that can be made in this 
region has already been planned for the convenience of trav- 
elers. This is the so-called 

** Triangle Trip,'' of the Northwestern Pacific railroad, 
which takes you from the Ferry building at the foot of Market 
street to Sausalito, thence through San Rafael, Petaluma and 
Santa Rosa to Fulton; westward from Fulton to Guerneville 
and Monte Rio on the Russian river, and thence southward 
by Camp Meeker, Tomales, Point Reyes station and San 
Anselmo to Sausalito again, getting you back to San Fran- 
cisco at 7 p. m., after a circuit of 150 miles. 

The trip costs $2.80, except Fridays and Saturdays, when 
the price is $2.50, and Sundays when it is $2.20. 

This journey skirts the foot of Mt. Tamalpais, takes you 
northward into beautiful hill country and rolling lands set with 
orchards and vineyards, or given over to poultry raising on a 
colossal scale, and through part of the beautiful Russian river 
valley, where the bottom lands are covered with the light 
emerald green of hop fields, and the mountain sides rising above 
them are clothed with shaggy forests of California redwood. 

San Rafael was once the site of an old Spanish mission, 
few traces of which remain. It is now the county seat of 
Marin county. It is a thriving town, of many fine homes and 
a good business section, and is much frequented by summer 
visitors from the city. The trip to San Rafael alone takes 



Marin and Sonoma Counties 281 

about an hour, and a visit will make a most enjoyable day's 
outing, possibly with luncheon at "Coppa's," down the main 
street, and a side trip to Pastori's, near San Anselmo. 

Petaluma, Sonoma county, is the world's greatest poultry 
center. The hens in this vicinity have laid as many as a hun- 
dred million eggs in a year, and one incubator establishment 
has a capacity of 165,000 at a hatch. It is a rich Httle place, 
with five banks and four newspapers. Petaluma, direct, is 
less than two hours from San Francisco, and its bridge is the 
head of navigation on Petaluma creek. The Petaluma and 
Santa Rosa Railway, an electric line, runs from here to Sebas- 
topol, and from there to Forestville by one branch and to 
Santa Rosa by another. Either terminus of this road makes 
a good excursion from San Francisco. 

Gertrude Atherton selected Petaluma as possessing the 
necessary beauty and local interest for the scenes of some of 
the most interesting chapters of her novel, "Ancestors." 

Santa Rosa, county seat of Sonoma county, is a handsome 
and well kept town of about 12,000 inhabitants. It is re- 
nowned as the home of the great plant breeder, Luther Bur- 
bank, and the scene of many of the labors whereby he created 
the pitless prune, the Shasta daisy, the Burbank and Wickson 
plums, the spineless cactus and other invaluable horticultural 
forms. Travelers stopping at Santa Rosa may easily find his 
experimental gardens, but are warned that his time belongs 
to humanity. 

Santa Rosa holds a great Rose Carnival in May, when it 
makes displays of roses that can hardly be matched in the 
world. From Fulton, stages leave for Mark West Springs. 

Cuerneville and Monte Rio, on the Russian river, are 
famous resorts and pleasure places for the people of San 
Francisco, Oakland and the neighborhood. At Guerneville 
one sees a remarkable sight — the tall stumps of the mighty 
redwood forest that once occupied the vicinity. 

Guerneville is 72 miles from San Francisco, and can be 
reached in 3 J/2 hours. A round trip can be made between 



282 Handbook for San Francisco 

8:45 in the morning and 7:05 at night, with 3 hours in the 
town and vicinity. 

Near Monte Rio the Russian river is at its loveHest, its 
banks clad with the verdure of wild grapes and rock maples, 
against a deep green background of redwood forest. Doz- 
ens of boats are on the river in summer, and many in winter 
as well, when the water is not too high, for it never freezes as 
eastern streams do, and, all year round, dwellers in the hill- 
side cottages are enjoying life in the open. The time to Monle 
Rio from San Francisco direct is about four hours. 

Up river from Monte Rio a short distance is the famous 
grove of the Bohemian Club of San Francisco, where the 
world famous "Grove Play" is held yearly. 

Camp Meel^er is a popular resort for families from the 
city. Summer cottages perch on steep hill-sides among dense 
growths of redwood, fir and madrone, and occasionally great 
teams of oxen can be seen hauling giant saw logs to mill. 
One can reach Camp Meeker from the city in about four 
hours and make a round trip to this point alone between 
8:15 a. m. and 7:35 p. m. 

San Anselmo is a beautiful, hill-sheltered village, with one 
of the finest climates in California. The Presbyterian Orphan- 
age is located here, and the handsome, ivy-clad stone structures 
seen from the train are the buildings of the San Francisco 
Presbyterian Theological Seminary. 

San Anselmo is almost in the center of Marin county, and 
also of Ross valley. 

It is about 1 6 miles and a little over an hour from the city. 
The return to Sausalito completes the "Triangle Trip," but 
only begins on the beauties and interests of Marin and Sonoma 
counties. 

Inverness and Tomales Bay. A favorite resort for many 
a San Francisco fisherman and duck hunter. In the woods 
on its western shore is the little town of Inverness, where good 
boarding houses can be found, and where one M. Peridot 
keeps a French restaurant of excellence. 



Marin and Sonoma Counties 283 

Mill Valley and Ross Valle'^ are enchanting suburban set- 
tlements, snuggled among the long sloping buttresses of Mt. 
Tamalpais. Here many San Franciscans find most satisfying 
lural conditions. 

These places are on different branches of the Northwestern 
Pacific. Ross can be reached in about an hour, and Mill 
Valley in less than that time. 

Sonoma, on the Sonoma branch of the Northwestern Pa- 
cific, has the only Spanish mission building owned by the 
State — that of St. Francis de Solano, established by the 
padres in 1823 as a health resort for the Indians. It is 
partly restored, and its thick adobe walls and tiled roof are 
very interesting as examples of this type of construction. 

The town is charmingly environed, set in a level valley, 
amid vine-clad hills, and is historically interesting, for it was 
here that a party of American settlers, determined to achieve 
independence from Mexico, and abetted by John C. Fremont, 
raised the "Bear Flag" in 1846. On a huge rock in the 
Plaza is a tablet commemorating the event. 

The trip to Sonoma, Boyes Hot Springs or Glen Ellen 
can easily be made in a day, leaving San Francisco at 9:15 
a. m. and getting back at 6:05 p. m., with time to spare. 
This is the region known to Jack London's readers as the 
"Valley of the Moon." The sheer Californian loveliness of 
the district where the prolific vineyards produce some of the 
choicest wines, and the Grecian beauties of nature prompt to 
all sorts of outdoor seasonal festivals, makes the visitor rejoice 
that he came, and long to return. 

Healdsburg, Cloverdale and the Italian-Swiss Colony at 
Asti. Beyond Fulton, the farthest point north on the "Tri- 
angle Trip" described above, the main line of the North- 
western Pacific continues northward through the length of the 
Santa Rosa valley, renowned as one of the finest parts of 
California. 



284 Handbook for San Francisco 

Healdsburg, 66 miles north of San Francisco, is a pros- 
perous place with locust lined streets and pretty homes. An 
auto stage runs from Healdsburg to the Geysers. 

Above Healdsburg, at Geyserville, one can take a stage 
to Skaggs Springs. 

At Asti, half a dozen miles farther, are the great vine- 
yards and wineries of the Italian-Swiss Colony, where a cred- 
itable brand of champagne is being produced after years of 
study and the importation of experts from Europe, and where 
the gigantic glass lined wine vat is renowned as the largest 
thing of the kind in the world. 

Along this stretch of road between Healdsburg and Clover- 
dale ten miles of grape vines are trellised on the right-of-way 
fences. 

Cloverdale, at the head of the valley and about 80 miles 
north of San Francisco, is noted for its citrus fair, which occurs 
every February. 

Here the orange produces blossom and fruit in every door- 
yard, and the annual fair consists of a fine exhibition of 
oranges, grape fruit, lemons, olives, olive oil and wines. No 
better picture of plenty can be found, no more effective dem- 
onstration of the mildness of the California climate. 

A mile out of Cloverdale, in Oat Valley, is a popular 
summer resort, the "Old Homestead," much favored by peo- 
ple from San Francisco and Oakland. 

Leaving San Francisco in the morning at 7:45, the trip to 
Cloverdale can be made before noon, and a train returning 
can be taken at a little after 4 p. m., which will land the 
traveler in San Francisco before 8 o'clock in the evening; or 
the journey can be limited to any intermediate point. From 
Cloverdale one can make the trip to the Geysers of California, 
go from the Geysers to Calistoga, and return to San Francisco 
by running down the Napa valley. 

The Cey^sers. Ten miles east of Cloverdale is one of the 
wonder places of the State: the Geysers of California. Stages 
leave Cloverdale every day except Sundays, at 1 :30 p. m.. 



Mare Island iVavp Yard 285 

connecting with the 7:45 Sausalito boat and train from San 
Francisco. One should arrange to stay at least a day or two 
to see this strange region, which has been famous among Cali- 
fornians for generations. There are boiling springs and a jet 
of steam that rises mountain-high. The place has a good 
hotel, and bath houses where you can get natural steam. Ham- 
mam and mineral baths. There is a swimming lake of mineral 
waters and good fishing in the Pluton river. 

For those wishing to visit some of the many beautiful resorts 
in the region north of San Francisco, the Northwestern Pacific 
railroad issues a descriptive booklet called "Vacation," which 
can be obtained at 874 Market street. 



MARE ISLAND NAVY YARD. 

Mare Island is 30 miles from San Francisco, and the 
journey there takes about two hours. 

This is a one-day excursion from San Francisco, consisting 
of a sixty-mile round trip on the sheltered waters of the bay. 
No visitor should omit to take it and thus broaden his knowl- 
edge of the way in which the United States Government car- 
ries on the biggest kind of construction work and keeps its 
fighting ships in trim. It is a wonderfully beautiful and inter- 
esting ride. 

A good way to make this excursion is to 

Take the Monticello Steamship Conipan^'s steamer *'Napa 
Ci/p," leaving from the foot of Merchant street, just north 
of the Ferry building at 9:45 a. m., for Vallejo, and return 
from Vallejo at 3:20 p. m., reaching San Francisco at 5:20 
p. m. 

Fare for the round trip by this route is $1 to Vallejo and 
return, with an extra 20 cents for the Vallejo-Mare Island 
ferry. 

These excursions are personally conducted, by a guide who 
points out the different points of interest on the bay, attends 



286 Handboof( for San Francisco 

to getting yard passes at the ferry landing on the island, and 
shows visitors about. 

Luncheon can be had on the boat going up, or in Vallejo. 
No luncheon can be obtained on the Government ground. 

Vallejo is a pleasant town of about 15,000 people, with 
three newspapers, two banks, and a yacht club. It can also 
be reached by the Southern Pacific railroad, leaving from 
the Ferry building at the foot of Market street, running up 
the east shore of the bay and crossing by another ferry at 
Vallejo Junction. 

Mare Island Navy Yard occupies a strip of shore on a 
large island opposite Vallejo, from which it is separated by 
the opening into Napa bay. The crossing is made by a ferry 
from a landing near that of the Monticello Company. This 
ferry runs every hour. 

Visitors are allowed in the yard between 7 a. m. and 
sunset. The Navy Yard was founded in 1854, and the gov- 
ernment plant represents an investment of about $18,000,000. 



UP THE NAPA VALLEY. 

This trip, through one of the loveliest of California's fruit 
and wine districts, can be made in a day from San Francisco, 
but it is worth giving more time for some of the side excur- 
sions that can be made from points on the line. It leads 
through Napa and St. Helena to Calistoga, 73 miles from 
San Francisco, the main point of departure for the celebrated 
Petrified Forest, Clear Lake and the resorts of Lake county. 

Take Monticello Steamship Company's boat to Vallejo, as 
per Mare Island trip, and there connect rvith San Francisco, 
Napa and Calistoga Electric Railway. 

The trip to Calistoga and back can be made in a day, 
including the Petrified Forest, a place where great trees have 
been turned to stone. Private conveyance from Calistoga. 

This trip can also be made by the Southern Pacific rail- 
road, along the Alameda county shore to Vallejo Junction, 



Up the Napa Valley 287 

thence to Napa Junction and on up the Napa Valley. It takes 
about 31/2 hours. To go this way, 

TaJ^e Oakland jerry) from foot of Market street 

The Napa Valley is a five-mile-wide strip of the most 
fertile soil to be found, poured from the foot of Mt. St. 
Helena down between long ridges of beautiful timbered hills 
about 35 miles to the northern shore of San Pablo bay, 30 
miles north of San Francisco. Here grow in profusion and 
in perfection the grape, the apricot, the prune, every variety of 
plum, the olive and the fig, cherries, pears, peaches, almonds 
and walnuts. Citrus fruits are a garden delight, though it is 
not hot enough to produce them on a commercial scale. 

Good roads mark the prosperity of the region. Picturesque 
stone bridges span the streams. The hill forests are full of 
game, and the lower slopes are clad with orchards and vine- 
yards. Here and there a fine stone winery, built at the 
entrance to thousands of feet of tunneled wine vaults, suggests 
the valley of the Rhine. 

The principal towns on the route are Napa, the county 
seat, a thriving little manufacturing city where boots and shoes 
and gloves are made, and where the State has a great hospital 
for the insane; St. Helena, with its sanitarium and its White 
Sulphur Springs close at hand; and Calistoga, at the head 
of the valley. On the way up one passes St. Joseph's 
Agricultural College, and the Veterans' Home at Yountville, 
where many pensioners of the Civil War reside. 

From Napa there is an auto stage to Napa Soda Springs, 
a favorite resort for San Franciscans. 

From St. Helena one reaches Aetna Springs, another fa- 
mous resort. Nearby is the well known St. Gothard Inn. 

From Vallejo, the Vallejo White Sulphur Springs can also 
be reached by automobile stage. 

The Napa Valley makes a beautiful automobile trip. From 
Calistoga one can reach the Geysers (see index), continue to 
Cloverdale and return down the Santa Rosa Valley to Sau- 
salito. 



288 HandbooI( for San Francisco 

THE NETHERLANDS ROUTE— UP THE 
RIVER TO SACRAMENTO. 

If California is an Italy it also contains another Holland, 
and almost another Egypt. In the interior valley, typical delta 
deposits have been laid down by its great rivers before they 
reach the Bay, and in this lavish soil grows a profusion of 
the finest garden produce to be found. The broad "islands" 
formed by the network of this huge drainage system are prod- 
igally fertile. In this region are the world's greatest asparagus 
beds. 

The Netherlands Route, Southern Pacific, offers a fine trip 
by a commodious river boat through this region of orchards, 
truck gardens and melon and asparagus plantations, stretching 
125 miles up the river to Sacramento, the Capital of the State. 
Boats leave the wharf at the foot of Pacific street north of 
the Ferry building every morning except Sundays, taking a 
day to make the journey one way; and at 1 :30 p. m. daily, 
except Sundays, reaching Sacramento at 4 a. m. (Passengers 
can remain on the boat until morning). The afternoon trip 
makes a delightful night excursion, especially when there is a 
moon. The steamers have comfortable staterooms and good 
meals are served in the dining hall. The fare to Sacramento 
is $1.50; berths and meals extra. 

With the Bay, in various aspects, you are probably familiar, 
from other trips about it, but to see these silvery reaches of 
the river in the evening glow, or by moonlight after the sun 
has dropped behind the hills of Napa county, is something 
to be remembered all your life. Except for the lack of Arab 
villages and storied temples, the stream has all the mystic 
loveliness of the Nile, framed in the living verdure of Cali- 
fornia. 

As the steamer enters Carquinez Straits, which connect San 
Pablo Bay and Suisun Bay, it comes into view of one of the 
most interesting engineering works in the country: four cob- 
web strands of wire cable, suspended across the narrowest part 



up the River to Sacramento 



289 




MOONLIGHT ON THE SACRAMENTO. 



of the channel, between huge steel towers, which look, to 
the stranger, like oil-well derricks. This is the longest sus- 
pension span of wire in the world, a monument to California 
enterprise in the long-distance transmission of hydro-electric 
energy, and to the skill of Western engineers and constructors. 
It belongs to the Pacific Gas & Electric Company. 

The tower on the north side, at Dillon's Point, in Solano 
county, is 224 feet in height. The one across the straits at 
Eckley, in Contra Costa county, is shorter, but stands on 
higher ground. Between them the tenuous steel threads span 
a distance of 4427 feet, and at the extreme low point the 
lowest one hangs 206 feet above the water, or high enough to 
permit the passage of the tallest ship in the American mer- 
chant marine. 

Over these wires runs the unseen energy that lights the 
lamps in Oakland and Berkeley, and drives the trolley cars 
in the cities along the eastern shore of the Bay. 



290 Handbook for San Francisco 

This line was built in 1 900 by the Bay Counties Power 
Company, then newly formed by a combination of power 
plants on the Yuba river; and in April of the following year 
the company began delivering electric current from Colgate, 
36 miles above Marysville, to Oakland, 1 42 miles away, and 
to San Jose, a distance of 1 84 miles ; the longest transmission 
of electricity that had ever been accomplished at that time. 

This whole northern and northwestern shore of Contra Costa 
county, from Richmond to Antioch, is undergoing a most 
remarkable industrial development, and here, from Port Costa 
eastward along the south shore of Suisun Bay, it is growing 
up with small towns like Bay Point and Pittsburg, which will 
one day produce a large volume of the manufactures of the 
West. 

Opposite Port Costa is Benicia, and between these two 
points the trains of the Southern Pacific Company are ferried 
across the straits by the largest car ferry in the world, the 
"Solano." 

Your boat will stop at Benicia, where the Government has 
an arsenal and ordnance depot. 

The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers empty into the 
eastern end of Suisun Bay. In these waters a considerable 
salmon, bass and shad fishery is carried on by Italians and 
Greeks, who may be observed sailing gracefully and swiftly 
about in their lateen-sailed boats, the peculiar rig of the Medi- 
terranean and San Francisco Bay, attending their long nets that 
stretch half across the channel. Jack London has portrayed 
some of the romance of their occupation in his "Tales of the 
Fish Patrol." 

Stops are made at Rio Vista, Isleton, and Walnut Grove, 
where there is a picturesque Chinese settlement with galleried 
buildings and quaint little second-story alleys stretching back 
from the levee. 

Sacramento occupies the old Sutter grant, the site of the 
first considerable white settlement in the interior of the State. 
It was the objective of many of the trains of "prairie schoon- 



up the River to Sacramento 291 

ers" bearing the early Argonauts and their families "across 
the plains," for here, long before the discovery of gold, 
General John H. Sutter had established a colony of Swiss 
settlers which he called New Helvetia, and which he made 
secure against the Indians by means of an old adobe fort, 
built in 1 839. The fort still stands, and, with its museum of 
pioneer relics, is one of the worth-while show places of the 
city. Sutter himself was the employer of Marshall, whom he 
sent into the mountains to build a saw mill at Coloma, in El 
Dorado county, and who picked up in the mill race the 
nugget which made so much of the subsequent history of the 
State. 

The first railroad in the State was built from Sacramento 
to Folsom, and here was born the project for a transcontinental 
rail line. 

There is much to be seen here. The State Capitol is an 
imposing structure and from its dome one can get grand views 
of the surrounding valley, the delta lands and islands and 
the far off snow-capped mountains. The State Library in 
this building contains 155,780 volumes, and there is a very 
extensive law library. The park about the Capitol embraces 
33 acres and contains 1 1 6 varieties of trees and shrubs from 
all parts of the world, besides the memorial grove of trees 
collected from the battlefields of the Civil War. 

In the Capitol grounds is the State Insectary, which yearly 
collects, breeds and distributes millions of fruit-protecting in- 
sects. This work has probably been farther advanced in 
California than anywhere else in the world, and has attracted 
the attention of Government scientists from France, Spain, 
Japan, Formosa and South Africa. 

There is an ostrich farm in Sacramento, with from fifty to 
a hundred birds. 

Another attraction is the Crocker Art Callery^y gift of Mrs. 
Margaret E. Crocker, and open to the public free of charge, 



292 



Handbook for San Francisco 



RIVER. RAIL AND RIVER: TO SACRAMENTO 
AND STOCKTON. 

A somewhat longer expedition than the Netherlands trip, 
one that combines in one panorama the great river system of 
the State, the Capital of California, and the fertile farming 
country lying between Sacramento and Stockton, is what is 




THE STATE CAPITOL, AT SACRAMENTO. 

called the "Triple S Trip." It affords a delightful travel 
experience of two or three days and is one of the most inter- 
esting excursions that can be made out of San Francisco. 

One can leave the city on Friday night, or Saturday night, 
and return by Monday morning or Monday night, having 
covered 250 miles on two great rivers and a fine, modern 
electric car propelled by the energy of falling streams in the 
Sierra Nevada mountains. The fare is $2.50 for the round 
trip, with extras for berth and meals. 



Sacramento and Stockton 293 

The first leg of the journey is to Sacramento, the State 
Capital, on one of the steamers of the Cahfornia Transporta- 
tion Company, which leaves Jackson street wharf, north of the 
Ferry building and just beyond the Chief Wharfinger's office, 
at 5 p. m. on week days, arriving at Sacramento at 6 the 
following morning. 

Information about Sacramento itself will be found in the 
previous chapter. At Eighth and K streets at 10:15, 12:15 
or 2:15, you take the Central California Traction Company's 
car for a ride of fifty miles or more, southward through the 
'*land of the flaming Tokay" to Stockton. At Coffing, on 
this route, you pass the largest vineyard of Tokay grapes in 
the world, 1 ,200 acres, all under irrigation. The line passes 
the Cosumnes river, and a short distance beyond is a wine vine- 
yard of 2,100 acres extending southward for three miles. 
Then you get into the real Tokay grape country and see 
miles and miles of vineyards and orchards stretching away on 
every side. 

Stockton is a city of about 35,000 inhabitants, the "capi- 
tal" of the northern San Joaquin valley, and, of old, the main 
supply depot for the "southern mines" on the mother lode. 
The Sacramento and the San Joaquin are really one valley, 
and San Francisco Bay receives the waters of both. Stockton 
has long been the head of a great grain growing section, some of 
which is now changing to horticulture, but not before making 
this thriving little city a great flour-milling center. Here also 
was invented and developed the Gargantuan harvesting ma- 
chinery that has astonished the world outside of California; 
and the application of the traction engine to the work of plow- 
ing and reaping has been carried farther here than anywhere 
else. 

It is said that more barley is grown within 25 miles of 
Stockton than in any similar area in the United States. 

Steamers of the California Navigation and Improvement 
Company leave Stockton daily except Saturdays at 6 p. m., 
from the wharf directly opposite the Hotel Stockton. The 



294 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

trip down the San Joaquin to the Bay is fully as interesting 
as that up the Sacramento, threading, as it does, what is 
aptly called the Holland of America. The great islands, 
reclaimed and protected by the levees, produce incredible 
yields of asparagus, beans, corn, onions and potatoes, which 
form the cargoes of numberless small craft that keep every 
water lane busy. 



SAN JOSE AND THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY. 

(Pronounce it San Hosay.) 

Beginning twenty-five or six miles south of San Francisco 
and stretching southeastwardly for possibly fifty more, the 
Santa Clara Valley embraces the most fertile and salubrious 
part of California yet developed. 

Imagine a climate so bland and genial that standard roses 
grow into trees, while oranges and lemons flourish along the 
foothills. Imagine a county that supports more than half a 
million tender apricot trees, that produces more than half the 
prunes grown in the United States, that sends yearly to the mar- 
kets of the world, including such distant cities as New York, 
Paris, Berlin, London, 1 40,000,000 pounds of dried fruits, 
30,000,000 pounds of canned goods, 200,000,000 of fresh 
fruit; and where, every spring, the whole region looks as 
though it had been drowned in a tidal wave of dazzling, 
scented apple, apricot, cherry, peach, plum and almond blos- 
soms; one hundred and twenty-five square miles of bloom, on 
seven million trees, in mid-March when all over the eastern 
states the plumbers are thawing out the water pipes with gaso- 
line torches. 

"Personally," says E. Alexander Powell, "I shall always 
think of the Santa Clara as a sleeping maiden, fragrant with 
perfume and intoxicatingly beautiful, lying in a carven bed 
formed by the mountains of Santa Cruz, curtained by fleecy 
clouds, her coverlet of eider down, tinted with rose, quilted 



The Santa Clara Valley 295 

with green, edged with yellow; her pillow the sun-kissed waters 
of San Francisco Bay. When you come closer, however, 
you find that the coverlet which conceals her gracious form is 
in reality an expanse of fragrant blossoms; that the green tufts 
are the live oaks which rise at intervals above the orchards of 
cherry, peach and prune; and that the yellow edging is the 
California poppies which clothe the encircling hills." 

Beginning at the northern end, where Senator Stanford on 
his Palo Alto farm bred his great trotting horses, and where 
the magnificent buildings of Leland Stanford Junior University 
now stand, to Gilroy at the southern end, with its famous hot 
springs and its seed farms in the neighborhood, the county is 
set thick with pretty towns. Electric car lines radiate from 
San Jose into all this favored region, and entertaining rides 
can be taken to Santa Clara and its college and mission site, 
to Los Gatos and to Saratoga. 

San Jose itself, 49 miles south of San Francisco, is easily 
reached by several Southern Pacific trains a day from Third 
and Townsend depot. Before 1915 the State highway will 
connect it with the city by a fine automobile road. There is a 
population of about 33,000, with beautiful homes and gar- 
dens, a fine normal school and an unexcelled public school 
system. 

Every year in blossom time a festival is held at Saratoga 
that rivals the feast of cherry blossoms at old Tokio. The 
town is easily reached from San Jose and well repays a visit. 
The festival demonstrations extend southward as far as Los 
Gatos, and the Sunday afternoon automobile processions along 
the roads during this period are a remarkable sight. 

All through the summer in this favored land one sees along 
the hillsides and in the pastures great beds of glowing orange 
color which are the wild California poppy, or Eschscholtzia, 
one of the most beautiful of all the wild flowers, and the 
official flov/er of the State. 

Santa Clara is the oldest town in the Santa Clara Valley. 
It is a place of beautiful homes, an old mission church, the 



296 Handbook for San Francisco 

site of the University of Santa Clara; and near it are some 
of the finest seed farms in the world, producing sweet pea 
seed, lettuce, radish, onion, canary bird seed and many more, 
by the carload. The town is connected with San Jose, which 
is three miles distant, by trolley, and between the two runs 
the Alameda, the shaded walk of the mission fathers who 
founded Santa Clara Mission in I 777. 



MT. HAMILTON AND THE LICK OBSERVA- 
TORY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF 
CALIFORNIA. 

The Lick Observatory is situated on the summit of Mt. 
Hamilton, Santa Clara county, at an altitude of 4,209 feet. 
It is thirteen miles due east of San Jose, with which it is con- 
nected by a fine mountain road whose easy grades take 27 
miles to make the ascent. Leaving Third and Townsend 
depot, the trip to San Jose takes from an hour and fifteen to 
an hour and thirty minutes. 

The Mt. Hamilton Auto Stage (R. W. Eaton, proprietor, 
323 South First street, San Jose), leaves that city about 8:45 
in the morning every day except Sunday, reaching Mt. Ham- 
ilton before noon. Returning, the stage leaves the top at I :30 
p. m., and reaches San Jose at 4 p. m. The round trip fare 
is $5. Luncheon can be obtained at Smith's Creek hotel, part 
way up. The stage will call for passengers at any of the 
leading San Jose hotels, and bookings can be made by phone 
or through the hotel office. 

The observatory is open to day visitors until sundown, but 
not thereafter, except Saturday evenings. On Saturday it is 
open to visitors that arrive before 9 p. m. Arrangements can 
be made with the Mt. Hamilton Auto Stage for the Saturday 
evening trip, or for day trips. For the Saturday evening trip, 
stages leave San Jose at 4 p. m. and return about midnight. 



The Lick Observatory 297 

The mountain grade discloses an inspiring view over the 
Santa Clara valley and the Santa Cruz mountains. 

Since the advent of the automobile the number of day vis- 
itors at the observatory greatly exceeds the number of Satur- 
day evening visitors. Those arriving by day have opportunities 
to see several of the principal instruments as well as the num- 
erous intensely interesting photographs of celestial objects dis- 
played in the corridors. 

Saturday evening visitors are privileged, weather permitting, 
to look through the 12-inch and 36-inch telescopes. 

There are no charges for admission. 

The gauge of the importance of this observatory was laid 
down as far as it was possible to do so by its founder, James 
Lick, the San Francisco philanthropist, in the deed of trust 
by which he provided for it; in which he directs the trustees 
to expend $700,000 for the most powerful telescope yet made, 
together with the observatory. 

Lick was one of the earliest of the pioneers, having come 
to San Francisco in 1847. He made millions out of San 
Francisco real estate, died in 1876, leaving millions to public 
institutions, and is appropriately buried under the pedestal of 
the great refracting telescope on the mountain's top. There 
is a fine bronze relief of him in the vestibule of the Mechanics 
Institute building, on Post street, between Montgomery and 
Kearny. 

It is well known that this telescope, of which the objective 
lense is 36 inches in diameter, was the largest refractor ever 
built when the Clarks of Cambridgeport, Mass., turned out the 
flawless glass. Through it, Bernard discovered the Fifth Satel- 
lite of Jupiter. What is not so well known is that the great 
Crossle}) reflector has been sent from England to Mt. Hamil- 
ton, where the large percentage of clear nights has vastly 
increased its efficiency, and is housed but a short distance from 
the Lick telescope. The finest pictures of Halley's comet were 
made here, and by means of the Crossley glass the sixth and 
seventh satellites of Jupiter were discovered. 



298 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

The director of the observatory is Prof. W. W. Campbell, 
who has associated with him at Mt. Hamilton, R. H. Tucker, 
R. G. Aitken, the great authority on double stars, W. H. 
Wright and H. D. Curtis, and a number of assistants and fel- 
lows of the University. 



DOWN THE OCEAN SHORE RAILROAD. 

From San Francisco to the end of the line, at Tunitas Glen, 
is 38 miles, and the trip to that point takes two hours and 20 
minutes — one way. 

From the depot at Twelfth and Mission streets, in San 
Francisco, the Ocean Shore railroad cuts across the city south- 
westerly and then runs thirty-eight miles down a rock-bound 
coast, over bold headlands, past sandy beaches, and across 
entrancing little valleys. Another section runs northward from 
the city of Santa Cruz. At present there is a considerable gap 
between them, but the line here will soon be completed, and 
it will then give direct rail transportation to San Gregorio, 
Pescadero, and the famous Pebble Beach. 

Several trains a day are operated on the northern or San 
Francisco-Tunitas section. 

Every mile of this road exhibits scenery of an imposing 
grandeur and an entrancing loveliness, diversified at every turn 
the train makes. One of the pleasant sights is Pedro Valley, 
a veritable thicket of artichokes. There is good surf fishing 
all along, and trout in such streams as San Pedro, Purisima, 
Lobitos and Tunitas creeks, and San Gregorio creek and 
lagoon. 

On Half Moon Bay is an old Spanish settlement, charming 
with its atmosphere of the past surviving in these busy times. 

There are bath houses at Salada, Moss Beach, Princeton 
and Granada. The beaches at nearly every station are shel- 
tered and warm, and there is an absence of the undertow that 
often makes bathing in the surf dangerous elsewhere. 



Santa Cruz 



299 



At many of the stations there are comfortable Inns, operated 
on reasonable tariffs, where one can get good sea-food dinners, 
and accommodations for the night. 



"■i^ S'T^^^-H r#^i 



..j%^^£fl 



l^l^SiSF" ' ^'JKv-^fS 



^\jr'7'!p^'''<^'5^ -Mi^j*"^^ — ^^"■■^a^ii^'*'*^^ ■ ■''■ife^i-'--^- v-^jw 



— * k f 



SANTA CRUZ CASINO AND BATHING BEACH. 

SANTA CRUZ, AND ITS BIG TREES. 

Seventy-six miles from San Francisco. 

Three hours and a half by rail from the Southern Pacific 
depot at Third and Townsend streets will bring you to the 
seaside town of Santa Cruz, on Monterey bay. Here is a 
fine casino, a broad bathing beach, a large swimming tank, 
all sorts of summer resort attractions, good fishing in the 
bay, several good hotels, (one with fine golf links) and a 
general atmosphere of holiday-making, during the season. It 
is said that the Casino and bathing pavilion surpass anything 
of the sort in America. The town is made up of pretty homes, 
and in its suburbs are many fine villas belonging to wealthy 
San Franciscans. A day can be spent most enjoy ably in an 



300 Handbook for San Francisco 

excursion from San Francisco to Santa Cruz and return. 

Six miles out of this seaside city, and seventy miles south 
of San Francisco, is the Fremont grove of coast range red- 
wood trees. Sequoia Sempervirens, that compare not unfavor- 
ably for size w^ith the Big Trees in the Sierra, some of them 
being twenty feet through the base, and 300 feet high. South- 
ern Pacific trains stop at this grove, and there is a pleasant 
club house where meals are served. 

A trip can be arranged so that one can have an hour at 
the grove, arrive in Santa Cruz a little after 1 2, have an hour 
in Santa Cruz and return to San Francisco in time for dinner; 
or spend five hours in Santa Cruz and return to San Francisco 
in the evening, arriving a little after 9 o'clock. 

From Santa Cruz one can also reach the Big Basin, or 
California Redwood Park, a most beautiful primeval Califor- 
nia forest of 3,800 acres. 



DEL MONTE, MONTEREY, PACIFIC GROVE. 

Del Monte is 121 miles from San Francisco by rail, and 
the trip takes three hours and forty-five minutes, one way. 

These resorts, each famous in a different manner, are 
located on Monterey Bay, and are so situated that each is an 
added attraction of the others. They are connected with one 
another by trolley, and can all be reached from San Fran- 
cisco by the Southern Pacific railroad from Third and Town- 
send depot. Any one of them will form a most enjoyable 
objective for a day's outing, with a stop of three or four hours 
at the other end and a return to San Francisco by nightfall. 

The Hotel Del Monte is one of the finest tourist resorts on 
the coast, offering year-round golf on a full professional course 
of eighteen holes and 6,000 yards, all grass greens; bathmg 
in its great indoor tank, filled with warm salt water; polo 
grounds, croquet and archery fields, fine bitumen tennis courts 
on which coast championship tournaments are held; a bowling 



Del Monte and Monterey^ 301 

green, and other outdoor attractions. There is an art gallery 
where California painters exhibit characteristic bits of work, 
and there is also a great pipe organ. The hotel has 500 
rooms and seats 750 in its dining hall. 

The benign climate of this region has made possible the 
most beautiful effects in the 125 acres of the Del Monte 
lawns and gardens, which contain over 1 ,360 varieties of 
plant life, including examples of all the principal trees of the 
Pacific Coast, with a large collection of Arizona cactus, aloe 
and yucca. The statement has often been made and never, 
to our knowledge, contradicted, that these are the most beau- 
tiful gardens in the world. 

The Del Monte Express leaves the Third and Townsend 
depot at 2 p. m., and arrives at the hotel in time for dinner. 

Monterey, "wrapped in the mantle of old traditions," was 
the first capital of California and is now a town of about 
5,000 people. It is a mile beyond Del Monte, and easily 
reached by trolley from there. There are many relics of the 
Spanish regime, and of the period of transition to American 
domination; such as the old Spanish custom house over which, 
in 1 846, Commodore Sloat raised the first American flag in 
California; Colton Hall, in which was drafted the first consti- 
tution of the present State; an adobe building which was the 
first theater in California, and in which Jenny Lind once 
sang; the old Washington hotel; and near it the house of old 
Jules Simoneau, in which Robert Louis Stevenson lived. All 
about, except in certain quarters that have felt the push of 
modern improvement, is the air of age and settled things with 
their foundations in California's romantic past. Old roses 
grown almost to trees, clamber over the lichened fences and 
garden walls — one of them said to have been planted by 
General William T. Sherman, while paying gallant attentions 
to a certain senorita who tended it always from that day; or 
so, at least, the story goes. Here is also the mission church 
San Carlos de Borromeo. 



302 Handbook for San Francisco 

There is a Presidio, or military post, at Monterey, where 
infantry is stationed, so that the streets are apt to be gay with 
uniforms. Within the reservation is a monument erected by 
Mrs. Leland Stanford to the memory of Padre Junipero Serra, 
the pioneer of missions and missionaries, who landed here in 
1 770, and who is buried at the Mission San Carlos Borromeo, 
or Carmelo, not far away. Monterey was at one time the 
site of an active whale fishery. A California grayback whale 
can occasionally be seen "blowing" off shore, and great whale 
bones ornament some of the gardens about the town. Nearby 
are two large sardme canneries. 

Three miles beyond Monterey by rail, (although the two 
towns are rapidly building together) and well out on the 
peninsula forming the southern boundary of the bay, is 

Pacific Grove, scene of the annual meeting of the Pacific 
Coast Chautauqua, the Women's Christian Temperance Union, 
the California Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church, 
and the Students' Conference of the Young Men's Christian 
Association. 

This is a sort of cottage city by the sea, a place of 3,000 
permanent inhabitants that began as a camp meeting ground. 
So attractive is it that its summer population is estimated at 
15,000. The summer school of Leland Stanford Junior Uni- 
versity is held here, and because of the wealth of sea life, here 
is located that university's marine laboratory, while the Uni- 
versity of California is preparing to establish one on an eight- 
acre site recently acquired. 

At Pacific Grove there is a very interesting marine museum. 
Monterey Bay is like one great aquarium, so prolific are its 
waters, its beaches and its rocky coves. Here one can ride in 
the glass-bottomed boat and from within a darkened chamber 
gaze into wonderful submarine grottoes where the anemone 
and star-fish grow, where sea urchins empurple the rocks and 
strange plants with a fruitage like myriads of gold nuggets 
move to and fro in the weaving currents. 



San Juan Bautisia . 303 



There are two good hotels at Pacific Grove, and board can 
be obtained at a number of private houses. There are plenty 
of boats, and there is good fishing. Over 150 species of food 
fish are found in the bay, including the fighting king salmon. 

Sea and shore exhibit strange moods that attract the artist 
and have furnished subjects for some of the best of our Califor- 
nia canvases — vistas opening toward the blue bay, sugar-white 
sand dunes, and jagged bluffs topped by the characteristic 
Monterey cypresses which throw their wind-tossed arms aloft 
like distracted ghosts. 

The Seventeen- Mile Drive is a famous excursion, by tally-ho 
or automobile, which shows the unusual beauties of the 
peninsula to advantage, and is especially weird and fascinating 
at night. 

The Mission San Carlos de Rio Carmelo is near the town of 
Carmel-by-the-Sea, which has become a colony of artists and 
literary lights. At the mission one can see many interesting 
relics, including the robes of Junipero Serra, father of all the 
missions of California, who is buried there. 

Pebble Beach, with a good grill serving sea food. Moss 
Beach, where one gets delicious orange-colored mussels, and 
other places along shore, afford good opportunities for the 
study of conchology. The abalone, a large univalve with a 
highly-colored iridescent shell, abounds in these waters. It is 
fine eating, and the shells make beautiful souvenirs. 



SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, MOST INTERESTING 
OF THE MISSIONS. 

Less than a morning's journey from San Francisco, in the 
San Juan Valley of San Benito county (pronounced San 
Whan, and San Baneto), is the mission that best recalls the 
scenes of Spanish and Indian life in California. 

The old Padres and the Indians are gone, but the setting 
remains,, unspoiled by "improvements" which have mercifully 



304 Handbook for San Francisco 

taken place a block away and out of sight. The old mission 
buildings overlook the same plaza as of yore. An ancient 
Spanish mansion fronts them, in which Fremont, the "Path- 
finder," once lived; and along one side of the plaza still stand 
a couple of galleried adobe houses, one of which has become 
a most comfortable inn. 

Mission and plaza and hospitable old tavern stand upon a 
low bench of the hills, overlooking a level valley of such fer- 
tility that a large seed concern now uses it to grow seeds, so 
that in June it is a wilderness of color and perfume. The 
sweet pea display here in May and June is something won- 
derful. 

The mission church is most interesting, and in the rooms 
that open off the cloistered portico are relics of early Cali- 
fornia; an ancient spinet; old music scores with huge black 
notes to be read from one copy by the whole choir; cunning 
convex mirrors from Paris that hung before the altar and 
revealed to the priest any communicant that misbehaved in 
church ; a curious old viol ; and an antique hand-organ, 
actuated by a crank and bellows and making music through 
true organ pipes, to call the Indian laborers from the valley 
when the day was done. 

The mission was founded in 1 797, and is said to have 
ministered to the spiritual needs of some 4,000 Indians in its 
time. Helen Hunt Jackson, author of "Ramona," says of 
it in her book on "The Missions of California:" 

At San Juan Bautista there lingers more of the atmosphere of the 
olden time than is to be found in any other place in California. 

The mission church is well preserved; its grounds are enclosed and 
cared for; in its gardens are still blooming roses and vines. In the shelter 
of palms, and with the old stone sun dial to tell lime. 

In the sacristy are oak chests, full of gorgeous vestments of brocades, 
with silver and gold laces. The church fronts south, on a little, green, 
locust-walled plaza — the sleepiest, sunniest, dreamiest place in the world. 

In the plaza, bull fights occurred in the Spanish days; and 
the cowboys of the neighboring great cattle ranges still gather 
there of a Saturday night as generations of cowboys have been 



Other Missions of California 



305 



doing for scores of years past. Just below the plaza are some 
tall pear trees, planted by the padres more than a hundred 
years ago. 

Here, in short, are the most distinct and unspoiled vestiges 
you will find of the dolce far niente times of Spanish Cali- 
fornia; the sunlit, pastoral peace of the "days before the 
Gringo came." 

San Juan is about eight miles west of Hollister, and possibly 
sixteen miles inland from the Bay of Monterey. It can be 
reached by taking the Southern Pacific train from Third and 
ToTvnsend depot to Sargent station and staging between six 
and seven miles from there; or by train to Salinas and auto- 
mobile from that point. 

The other missions of California, the dates of their estab- 
lishment, and the nearest railroad stations, are: 

Mission Founded Station 

San Francisco Solano July 4, 1823. . .Sonoma 

San Rafael Archangel Dec. 14, 181 7... San Rafael 

S. F. D'Assisi (Dolores) Oct. 9, 1776... San Francisco 

Santa Clara Jan. 12, Mil . . .Santa Clara 

San Jose June 11, 1 797 . . . Irvington ( 1 mi.) 

Santa Cruz Sept. 25, 1 791 . . . Santa Cruz 

San Juan Bautista June 24, 1797. . .Sargent (6 mi.) 

San Carlos de Borromeo June 3, 1770. . .Monterey 

San Carlos de Rio Carmelo July 10, 1771 . . .Monterey (5 mi.) 

Nuestra Senora de la Soledad . . .Oct. 9, 1791 . . .Soledad (4 mi.) 

San Antonio de Padua July 14, 1771 . . .King City (26 mi.) 

San Miguel July 25, 1 797. . . San Miguel 

San Luis Obispo de Tolosa Sept. 1, 1772. . .San Luis Obispo 

Santa Ynez Sept. 17, 1804. . .Los Olivos (12 mi.) 

La Purisima Conception Dec. 8, 1787. . .Lompoc (3 mi.) 

Santa Barbara Dec. 4, 1 786. . . Santa Barbara 

San Buenaventura Mar. 31, 1 782 . . . Ventura 

San Fernando Rey de Espana. . . . Sept. 8, 1 797. .. Fernando (2 mi.) 

San Gabriel Archangel Sept. 8, 1 771 .. .Los Angeles (10 mi.) 

San Juan Capistrano Nov. 1, 1 776. . .Capistrano 

San Antonio de Pala June 14, 1771 . . . Fallbrook (12 mi.) 

San Luis Rey de Frania June 13, 1798. . .Oceanside 

San Diego de Alcala July 16, 1769... San Diego (5 mi.) 

Santa Ysabel ,.,,,,,,,.,,,,,,,, 1822 Foster (28 mi.) 



306 Handbook for San Francisco 

YOSEMITE VALLEY. 

Pronounce it Yo SEMity. 

Located 1 50 miles due east of San Francisco, in an air 
line. By the Southern Pacific it is 151 miles and by the 
Santa Fe 143 miles to Merced, whence the Yosemite Valley 
railroad takes you to El Portal, near the entrance, a distance 
by rail of 79 miles. 

San Francisco is the main point of departure. You can 
leave the city from the Ferry building in the morning, arrive 
at Merced early in the afternoon, and reach the hotel at El 
Portal in time for dinner. Next morning a stage ride of twelve 
miles takes you to the hotel or the boarding camps in the 
Valley. Or during the summer season, beginning April 30th 
or May I st, one can take a Pullman in the evening and arrive 
at El Portal for breakfast, without change of cars. 

The round trip transportation fare, including stage ride from 
El Portal, is $22.35 from San Francisco. Excess baggage 
on the stage from El Portal is $1.00 a hundred pounds. 
Fifty pounds are carried free. There is a small charge for 
seats in the observation car from Merced. On this line one 
sees many remains of old gold "diggmgs" — chimneys of 
miners' cabins burned long ago, and one old stone structure 
that was used as a bank. 

Rates at the Sentinel Hotel are $3 to $4 a day, or $20 
to $25 a week; at Camp Lost Arrow, at the foot of Yosemite 
Falls, $2 a day; at Camp Curry, at the foot of Glacier 
Point, and on the way to the Happy Isles, Vernal Falls and 
Nevada Falls, $2 a day; at Camp Ahwahnee, the first camp 
you come to in the Valley, $3 a day. 

At Glacier Point, 3,234 feet above the floor of the Valley, 
are a good hotel and camp, where the rates are respectively 
$4 and $2 a day. All the camps, as well as the hotel, are 
comfortable, with floored tents and ample bathing facilities, 



Yosemite Valley^ 307 



The Sentinel hotel, on the floor of the Valley, is open all 
year. The camps and the Glacier Point hotel are open only 
in summer. 

In regard to equipment, your requirements in Yosemite 
will be comparatively simple, unless you wish to make a dress 
affair of it; so you can afford to leave most of your luggage 
at your hotel in the city. Take tramping clothes and hob- 
nailed boots, for it is a place of goodly distances, and although 
plenty of trail animals are to be had you will frequently wish 
to walk. Supply yourself at Butler's, Payot, Upham & 
Company's, or the Lietz Company's, with one of the topo- 
graphical maps isued by the United States Geological Survey; 
they show the roads and trails, the elevations, the courses of 
the streams and the locations of the falls. Get a pocket com- 
pass; it win help you find yourself on the map. A haversack 
for your lunch is a great convenience, and a collapsible cup is 
almost indispensable. And, finally, for good reading on the 
Yosemite, get John Muir's book of that title. 

The Valley is open the year around and is matchless at 
any season. 

In Spring there is most water going over the falls. In 
Summer the foliage and flowers are more brilliant and abun- 
dant, and this is the season for campers. In Autumn the 
Indian Summer haze tints the far-away cliffs with wondrous 
color and makes this the favorite time with real Yosemite 
lovers; the sort that make yearly and sometimes semi-yearly 
pilgrimages to the Valley. 

Winter adds grand effects to the streams and crags and 
mighty domes of this enchanted region. You may witness the 
fall and crash of blocks of ice as big as a box car, dropping 
1 ,600 feet over the Yosemite Fall. At this season many 
Californians enjoy here touches of the cold they do not get 
elsewhere than in their mountain heights; with bits of Winter 
sport, such as ski running, sleighing and skating on Mirror 
Lake. 



308 Handbook for San Francisco 

From the Himalayas to the Alps, there is not another place 
like Yosemite in the world. It is the only place where one 
can travel on a practically level road eight miles into the 
granite core of a mountain range ; a range that rises on either 
hand as you proceed from an elevation of about 3,900 feet 
where you enter the Valley, to the 7,042 of El Capitan, the 
7,214 of Glacier Point, the 7,072 of Liberty Cap and the 
8,852 of the Half Dome whose riven face rises almost a 
mile high from the Valley floor. All about are stupendous 
cliffs, with swimming, tangled perspectives that daze the senses. 

Thousands of feet above, rivers wandering in pleasant 
mountain valleys come to the tops of these awful walls, and 
drop. Their waters are sifted by the air into floating spray 
and weaving vapors, in which rainbows appear; they slide 
like molten silver down long inclines of granite; they break 
into cascades of liquid diamonds that splinter the mountain 
sunlight into flashing jets of ruby and orange and emerald. 

There is a point at which the mind wearies of its awe, and 
complacently gives itself over to a bewildered sort of en- 
chantment. You reach it by the second day. You begin to 
see that the archetypes of all the natural beauty in the world 
have been crammed and compacted into this wondrous chasm, 
eight miles long and half a mile wide, with its lateral gorges — 
evergreen firs that "tremble on the mountain wall," dogwood 
blossoms, mountain lilies, azaleas, the Mariposa tulip if you 
are lucky, wild strawberries, gleaming trout in the river, a lake 
like plate glass silvered; the Happy Isles where the divided 
river warbles its endless music over tree root and boulder; the 
fairy loveliness of the Illilouette. You climb to Glacier Point, 
and at 5 o'clock next morning turn out of your warm bed in 
the Glacier Point hotel and become one of the blanket Indians 
on the east porch to see the sun rise behind the Half Dome 
and pierce the heavens with long darts of flame like the corona 
of an eclipse — an utterly thrilling, unforgettable vision. 

You have come for three days. You see that it was a mistake, 
that you should have made it a month. But you will return. 



Big Trees of California 



309 



THE BIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA. 

These are earth's largest Hving things, and oldest. 

You will find them nowhere but in the Sierra Nevadas. 
Their only known relatives are the Sequoia Sempervirens, the 
California redwoods of the Coast Range mountains. Unless 
transplanted the Sequoia Gigantea, or Washingtonia, as the 
Forestry Service now calls it, does not grow on the coast. 




TTTE KALLKN MONAIU'II. 



Along the Sierra slopes the Big Trees grow in groves, of 
which the best known are the Calaveras, South Park, Tuol- 
umne, Mariposa and Fresno. These may contain anywhere 
from 30 trees in the Tuolumne grove, to 1,300 in the Cala- 
veras. Forests of them are found in the canyons of the Kings 
and Kaweah rivers. In the Giant Forest there are said to be 
over 6,000 trees with diameters of not less than 1 5 feet. 
But 1 5 feet is not a large diameter for a Big Tree ; some are 



310 Handbook for San Francisco 

a hundred feet around. In some cases the stage road has 
been cut through a standing trunk and you can drive through 
in a double-decker "thoroughbrace." On one of them, fallen, 
a squadron of cavalry has lined up. They reach a height of 
340 feet, and even then it invariably happens that the tip has 
been broken ofF nobody knows how far down, by nobody 
knows how many strokes of the jealous lightning. 

So perfect are their proportions, so slender and graceful the 
taper of their boles, so harmonious their salmon tinted bark, 
and their sparse and lace-like foliage, that the traveler is likely 
to be struck at first by their beauty instead of their size. As 
he gazes upward, however, he notices that some minor limb, 
branching from the main trunk, is of a thickness that would, 
if it grew alone, make it a large tree. The Grizzly Giant, in 
the Mariposa grove, has such a limb eighty feet from the 
ground that is seven feet through. Gradually it dawns upon 
the beholder that these organisms are stupendous, overwhelm- 
ing, awe-inspiring, one of the greatest of the world's wonders. 

The Mariposa grove is probably the best known, and is 
easily reached from Yosemite by way of Wawona, where 
there is a comfortable hotel. Stages run from Glacier Point, 
which one reaches from the floor of the Valley either afoot 
or horseback, passing by Vernal and Nevada Falls; and also 
from the floor of the Valley over the old Wawona road by 
Inspiration Point. If one desires to go direct, Wawona can 
also be reached from San Francisco by way of Madera, on 
the Southern Pacific railroad, and automobile stage from 
there. 

The prove is about six miles from the hotel at Wawona, 
which will furnish conveyances for the trip. No automobiles 
are permitted at present. 

The Calaveras Big Trees, in the county of that name, are 
another fine grove, containing more trees than the Mariposa. 
The route is by the Southern Pacific to Angels Camp, one of 
the historic places of California in the Bret Harte and Mark 
Twain mining country. A stage runs from Angels. 



Lake Tahoe 3 1 1 

Another magnificent grove is the General Grant, near San- 
ger. 

Few authors have written as entertainingly of this region 
and these giant trees as the California mountaineer, John 
Muir. His books, "The Mountains of California," "Our 
National Parks" and 'My First Summer in the Sierra," treat 
the whole subject sympathetically, understandingly and de- 
lightfully. 



LAKE TAHOE, GLEN ALPINE SPRINGS AND 
DESOLATION VALLEY. 

Only second in interest to Yosemite Valley is the region of 
Lake Tahoe and Glen Alpine Springs, lying on the eastern 
slope of the Sierra, 150 miles, in an air line, northeast of 
San Francisco, and about 1 00 miles north of Yosemite. 

This region can be reached by taking the Southern Pacific 
to Truckee, 209 miles, and 1 1 hours, away; and thence the 
Lake Tahoe Railway and Transportation Company's train 
past Deer Park, a popular mountain resort, to Tahoe City and 
Tahoe Tavern, leaving San Francisco at night and reaching 
the tavern about the middle of the following morning. The 
Tavern accommodates 500 guests and the rates are $4 a 
day and up, American plan. It is a good place, with every 
modern convenience, and is located on the western side and 
toward the northern end of the lake. 

Tallac is at the southern end of the lake. Here, also, is 
a fine hotel, where the accommodations are at the rate of $3 
a day and upward. It is reached by steamer from Tahoe City 
or the Tavern, and the steamer trip is a beautiful one. An 
equally interesting way, perhaps even more beautiful, is to 
take the Southern Pacific train from Sacramento to Placer- 
ville, in El Dorado county, and the automobile stage from 
that point up the canyon of the south fork of the American 
river to Tallac, passing through wild mountain scenery, and 



3 I 2 Handbook for San Francisco 

park-like woods of pine and fir and mountain hemlock. 

In addition to the Tavern and Tallac, there are many 
excellent resorts at different points on the lake, where accom- 
modations can be had at varying prices — such as Emerald Bay 
Camp, Al Tahoe, the Brockway Hotel, Tahoe Vista, The 
Grove, Glenbrook, McKinney's (whence a seven mile ride will 
take you to Rubicon Springs), Moana Villa, and others. The 
steamer stops at all of them in its rounds. 

Tahoe is a wonderful sheet of crystal-clear water, 23 miles 
long, 1 3 wide, over half a mile deep, poised in a mountain 
basin at an altitude of more than a mile above the sea. It has 
been compared to Como and Maggiore, but its proportions are 
more ample and satisfying and it is framed in grander moun- 
tains. Its waters are full of fish, and every resort keeps boats 
for its guests. Trout are sometimes taken weighing twelve 
pounds. The depths are trolled with copper wire for the big 
ones, and the sport is finer than Eastern fishing for bass, pike 
or muskalunge. Tahoe is the lake of lakes, the most delight- 
lul inland sheet of water where large numbers of people can 
find accommodations suited to purse and taste. There are no 
pests of flies or mosquitoes. In this serene mountain air, free 
from dust and pollen, hay fever is unknown and the victims 
of it that come here from the Eastern States experience instant 
relief. 

At present, travel about the lake is almost entirely by 
steamer, as the distances are generous and the roads are few, 
but a road is being built by the State from Tahoe City and 
the Tavern, around by Emerald Bay to Tallac, which will 
enable automobiles to make this much of the circuit, and open 
land communication between these two main points. 

Clen Alpine Springs and Desolation Valley. A stage leaves 
Tallac daily after lunch for Glen Alpine, passing for about 
three miles along the east shore of Fallen Leaf Lake, where 
there is a good lodge or inn. Accommodations here are at 
the rate of $14 a week and upward. Rates in camp at Glen 
Alpine are $ I 4 to $ I 6 a week. 



Clen Alpine Springs 313 

Although but seven miles by the road from Tahoe, the 
scenery and surroundings at Glen Alpine Springs are of an 
altogether different order, and the traveler that has spent any 
time at the lake feels that he has been transported into another 
w^orld. The Springs themselves are in a narrow glen, but 
good trails lead to the heights above, and to more than a 
score of gem-like mountain lakes, in which big trout abound, 
and on nine of which the camp proprietors keep boats for the 
accommodation of their guests. 

You should have a topographical map of this region, as for 
Yosemite, hob-nailed boots, a haversack, a compass and a 
collapsible cup. Lunches are provided by the camp on a 
night's notice. 

One of the best hikes of this neighborhood is to the top of 
Mt. Tallac, 9,785 feet above the sea. Trail animals (horses 
or mules) can be obtained by those that do not care for tramp- 
ing. The scenery on the way is of a nature that is nothing 
less than startling. 

At the summit, one of the wonder visions of the continent 
lies before you. You see a vast stretch of the tops of the 
Sierra, the grandest chain of mountains in the United States, 
from a scenic standpoint. The gem of the picture is Tahoe 
itself, spread at your feet, where it looks as though you could 
throw a stone into it, but so far below that the steamer has 
the dimensions of a canoe, and seems only to creep from one 
landing to another. The colors, also, are wonderful. The 
water is of the light and crystalline blue that eastern Moguls 
looked for in the "female" sapphire. The plains about Tallac 
are brown and umber, shading into topaz tints and finally 
going into unmistakable yellows. The timber is a combination 
of greens and saffron; and all is softened and exquisitely 
blended by the downward distance. 

There are many good hikes in the neighborhood, but the 
best one is by way of Heather Lake to 

Desolation Valley. Unless accustomed to the mountains 
and to keeping track of your location you would better have 



3 1 4 Handbook for San Francisco 

a guide. With or without a guide, this is one of the grandest 
day's marches you will ever make. Here, amid the granite 
crestings of the Sierra, surrounded by peaks that rise to 1 0,- 
000 feet, is a vast stone floor covered with a labyrinthine 
spread of lakes, between which are growing dwarfed, snow- 
bent and despairing trees; a "suicidal throng" such as Childe 
Roland saw on his way to the Dark Tower. Rafts of snow 
are floating in the lakes. Hummocks of bare granite rise here 
and there with streams brawling between. 

Above, the knife-edge ridges hold snow fields and bits of 
old glaciers, remnants of the ice age. Pyramid Peak rises to 
a height of I 0,020 feet from the farther side, built of gigantic, 
overlapping grey slabs, as though some primordial Chufru had 
taken the cosmos for his tomb. 

No life appears. Not a bird flies over. There is no sound 
except the dismal creaking of thousands of frogs. 

The scene at first appals; but as you gaze in bewilderment, 
fascination seizes you, and then the beauty and charm of a 
great natural garden — the Garden of Granite. The contorted 
pines and junipers have a Japanese efl^ect. The waters of all 
these lakes and connecting streams sparkle and glitter in the 
mountain light. Clumps of taller timber take an added dig- 
nity from their isolation. Dwell upon it, and it becomes a 
scene of wondrous beauty, unearthly and weird, transporting 
in its charm, and making the strange appeal that later trans- 
lates itself into homesickness for the sight of it again. Few 
people that have once fallen under the spell of Desolation 
Valley can be content until they have wandered through its 
stony mazes for a second time. 

The ascent of Pyramid Peak becomes an ambition here, 
and can be made, with the return to camp, in a day if you 
are a pretty good climber. The panorama from the top is 
reward enough, and so are those from the summits of Dick's, 
Jack's, Ralston and Angora. 



Automobiling 315 



AUTOMOBILING. 

San Francisco is the hub of a region affording opportunity 
for most fascinating and delightful automobile trips. The 
vicinity contains all the variety of mountains, plains, valleys 
and great river courses. The basin of the Bay itself, with 
the connecting bays and straits, presents scenes of ever chang- 
ing interest. Every hill discloses a new and wonderful cyclo- 
rama. Old Ocean lies to westward, and forms the distant 
blue perspective of every approach to the coast. 

Nowhere can one find such limitless variety, such a succes- 
sion of abrupt changes of grand and beautiful scenery. North, 
east and south the roads stretch away, to Marin county, to 
Sonoma county, to Mendocino county, to Lake and Napa 
counties, up to Shasta, to the Klamath region and beyond to 
Oregon; to Lake Tahoe, to the Yosemite, to the Sacramento 
and San Joaquin valleys, to Santa Cruz, Del Monte, Monterey, 
Pacific Grove, the Salinas valley and Paso Robles and down 
the coast to Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Diego and 
Mexico. 

World travelers declare there are no scenes along the Ri- 
viera, nor yet on the famous Amalfi drive from Naples, to 
compare with the scenery of the Alpine Drive from Pescadero 
to La Honda, accessible from this city in less than two hours; 
or some of the country to the northward of San Francisco, 
including trips over to the coast from points in the interior of 
Marin county; while such views as one gets from the hill road 
from Martinez to Port Costa, overlooking Carquinez Straits, 
and from the top of Mt. Diablo, are no less than sublime. 

California is becoming famous for good roads. The State 
has bonded itself to the extent of $18,000,000 for the con- 
struction of a north-and-south highway system, and the different 
counties are voting sums that will probably reach a like 
amount for lateral connections. For California touring one 
should have Ross' "Land and Auto Map of California's 
Twenty-five Central Counties," or Candrian's "Auto Roads 



316 



Handbook for San Francisco 



Handybook of California and Nevada," which will give a 
general view of the field, and for specific distances the "Tour 
Book" of the California State Automobile Association. We 
can do no more here than indicate a few of the most delightful 
rides in and around San Francisco, as an introduction to the 
country, which the automobilist is practically certain to follow 
with enthusiasm to a closer acquaintance. 




LICK MONUMENT TO THE PIONEERS. 



I. A DAY S AUTOMOBILE TRIP IN SAN FRANCISCO. 

The visitor that intends seeing the region of San Francisco 
by automobile should give his first day or half day if he has 
no longer time, to the city itself, for he will not find one more 
entrancing. A comprehensive idea of it can be gained in half 
a day without fatigue, but one could easily extend the route to 
occupy the better part of a day. 



Auiomobiling 31 7 



Visit first the Embarcadero, and see the piers and the 
shipping. 

Turn up Market street to California, follow California 
through the financial district and up the lower slope of Nob 
Hill as far as Grant avenue, which at this point enters China- 
town. Grant avenue is its main street and you can turn north 
for a few blocks and get a fleeting glimpse of this most inter- 
esting place. 

South on Grant avenue to Post street, turn west on Post 
to Stockton, then south on Stockton to Market street. This 
will take you through the principal shopping section of the city, 
past Union Square, surrounded by hotels and large stores. 
Then run out Market street to Van Ness avenue. The stores 
and automobile agencies along "Gasoline Row" are new and 
handsome structures and the other improvements of the avenue 
are rapidly making it one of the most attractive parts of down- 
town San Francisco. For much of its length Van Ness was 
the western limit of the conflagration of 1 906. 

Continue on Van Ness to Fort Mason, with its fine views 
over Black Point Cove and the Bay. Enter the Panama- 
Pacific Exposition grounds, and then return through Fort 
Mason to Van Ness avenue. Go south to Jackson street and 
take Jackson west to Arguello boulevard, called also First 
avenue. This takes you through a section of the city with fine 
water views, where many wealthy San Franciscans have built 
their town houses. 

Enter the Presidio by the First avenue entrance and make 
a square turn to the right. Then follow McDowell avenue to 
the left, swinging around the hills, whence there is a magnifi- 
cent view across the garrison buildings, and the islands of the 
Bay. 

At the foot of the grade, turn to the left and run out to 
old Fort Win field Scott, (within the Presidio reservation but 
organized as a separate artillery post). 

Doubling back from Fort Scott, keep along the foot of the 
slope, run past the National Cemetery, and through the Pre- 



3 1 8 Handbook fof San Francisco 

sidio parade with its flag staff, to the terminus of the Union 
street car hne. The view is a grand panorama, unroUing as 
you go ; one of the great marine prospects of the western 
coast. 

From this point take the road to the right, running south- 
easterly. Keep to the right and run westerly along the fence 
back to the First avenue gate. Thence take First avenue 
southward. 

A block south of the Presidio is the entrance to Presidio 
Terrace, a restricted residence district of fine homes set amid 
palms, in park-like grounds. The Presidio Golf Club has its 
club house here, and plays on the Presidio links. Emerging, 
follow Arguello boulevard south to Fulton street, passing the 
Odd Fellows' Cemetery, where you can see the dome of its 
beautiful columbarium. At Fulton street run eastward, to the 
left, around the corner of Golden Gate Park to the Stanyan 
street entrance. 

This is the finest artificial park in the United States, and 
you could spend the day enjoying its statuary, its Music Tem- 
ple, its Japanese Tea Garden, its manifold beauties of hill and 
dale, with its roads winding among lovely lakes where the 
wild ducks nest, its herds of elk and buffalo, and its huge 
Dutch windmills. 

At the west end of the Park is the sloop "Gjoa," in which 
Amundsen, discoverer of the South Pole, sailed through the 
Northwest Passage. 

To the right as you emerge from the west end of the Park 
is San Francisco's far-famed Cliff House. Beyond, up the 
hill, are the great Sutro Baths, and the Sutro Gardens, which 
the public is privileged to enter and enjoy — afoot. 

Run down the Great Highway southward, within sight of 
the booming surf of the Pacific for about three miles to Sloat 
Boulevard, and then turn east, passing, on your right the Lake 
Merced lands of the Spring Valley Water Company. 

A short distance beyond, you come to the neighborhood of 
three of San Francisco's newly developed residence districts: 



Automobiling 



319 






jjr»£^5X'j'^5*'''j-*j»' '•'',11 i " " 




THREE MILES OF BEACH; FROM THE CLIFF HOUSE. 

Ingleside Terraces, Forest Hill and 5/. Francis Wood, beau- 
tified with contoured streets, parked walks, ornamental vases 
and columns, and parks with pretty fountains, in the highest 
art of the modern landscape engineer. 

Take Corbett avenue, windmg up the heights to the east 
face of Tmn Peal^s, over 900 feet high. The view from this 
point is marvelous. The whole amphitheater of the Bay ap- 
pears, with the city sloping downward before you. Market 
street running direct to the water front, islands, shipping, the 
encircling hills, and Tamalpais rising like Vesuvius to com- 
plete a scene far surpassing in beauty the famed bay of Naples. 

If the traveler has a few days he should by all means make 
the trip to the top of Twin Peaks in the evening and look 
upon the myriad lights of the city spreading down the slopes 
before him. 

From the top of Twin Peaks, descend to Corbett avenue, 
lake Ashbury street northward, following the car line, to Fred- 
erick street; turn west on Frederick street to Clayton, south on 
Clayton to Carl, west on Carl to Stanyan, south on Stanyan 



320 Handbook for San Francisco 

to Parnassus avenue, and out Parnassus avenue westward to 
the Affiliated Colleges, whence there is another grand view 
across Golden Gate Park, the Presidio, and the Golden Gate, 
and westward far out to sea. 

Returning, follow the car track along Stanyan, Carl and 
Clayton streets to Frederick, and Frederick east to Buena 
Vista Park- You can run to the top of this 500-foot height 
and get another grand view across the city to the eastward, 
and over the Bay. 

The whole trip here laid out can be made in four hours, 
without stops; but it would be a pity not to give a day to the 
enjoyment of its beauties and the grandeur of the scenery It 
discloses. 

If you have but three hours, omit either the Presidio or 
Twin Peaks. 

An hour or more can be spent profitably in the down town 
part of the city, including Chinatown. Or the whole can be 
combined with a trip through the Potrero industrial district, 
passing near the Union Iron Works, the rope walk of the 
Tubbs Cordage Company, the Western sugar refinery and 
other large industrial plants. 

II. DOWN THE PENINSULA TO HALF MOON BAY, PESCA- 
DERO AND LA HONDA. 

This route will take you among some of the finest country 
estates in the world, where Italian gardeners and landscape 
artists have exercised their highest talents; to lakes as lovely 
as Como or Killarney; and over a mountain drive which, were 
it in Europe, would be favored beyond the most famous to be 
found there. Within one day's journey of 98 miles you will 
see the fertility of smiling California valleys, the sublimity of 
the ocean, the grandeur of the mountains and the solemn 
depths of mighty forests. 

Start at 9 o'clock, or earlier if you choose, and run through 
Golden Gate Park and southward over Nineteenth avenue to 
Sloat boulevard, whence you can turn southward again to 



Automobiling 



32 



School street, and passing Caleb Coakley's take the Mission 
road to San Mateo county. 

At Colma, just below the county line, are violet farms of 
400 acres extent, where the world's finest violets are grown. 
Violets from these beds are shipped from San Francisco up 
and down the Pacific coast and as far east as Chicago. 




GAl!l)i:X I\ SAX MATEO COUNTY. 

At Burlingame, Hillsboro and San Mateo are many of the 
country places of wealthy San Franciscans, beautified with 
artificial lakes, or open air Greek theaters, or conservatories 
with unrivalled collections of orchids. 

From San Mateo take the Half Moon Bay road to Crystal 
Lakes. These are part of the water supply system of San 
Francisco, and lie extended in a softly beautiful valley for a 
distance of over twelve miles. Crossing by the great dam, run 
down the long grade to Half Moon Bay and the old Spanish 
Town. 



322 Handbook for San Francisco 

From Half Moon Bay continue down the coast through San 
Gregorio to Pescadero, and thence run down to the famous 
Pebble Beach. In a little strip of beach about 1 00 feet wide 
by less than 200 in length, all sorts of curious stones have 
been found, including a few pearls. 

Returning to Pescadero take the road to La Honda, over 
the famous Alpine Drive. It will lead you into the Coast 
Range mountains, through an immense virgin forest of Cali- 
fornia redwoods, and to altitudes of hundreds of feet, whence 
you can look for miles to the southward, across the Big Basin, 
and over great mountain ranges. 

From the little hamlet of La Honda the road proceeds 
northward along San Gregorio creek, taking you into the 
refreshing depths of the forest, and again into the open, until 
as you top the mountain you reach a point from which you 
can look down 1,600 feet and see spread before you the 
whole floor of the Santa Clara valley. 

From this point the trip down the mountains is by a very 
easy grade to Woodside, and thence to Redwood City, 30 
miles south of San Francisco, on the State Highway, which 
affords fine traveling all the way back to the city. 

On this trip, called the Pescadero and Alpine Mountain 
Drive, there are many beautiful branch roads which would 
keep a traveler busy and delighted for weeks. An introduction 
is all that is necessary to make an enthusiastic San Francisco 
motorist of any visitor that has the time to spend in the State. 

III. WISHBONE ROUTE, TO SAN JOSE AND OAKLAND. 

For your third day's tour out of San Francisco, take the 
"Wishbone Route," around the south arm of the Bay, into 
the Santa Clara valley, to San Jose, and up the east shore 
through Mission San Jose, Hayward, San Leandro and Oak- 
land. It will give you one hundred miles of smooth going, 
through charming country, with a great variety of scene, but 
on the whole, quieter and more restful than the mountains. 



Automobiling 323 



Take the same route to San Mateo outlined in the previous 
trip, and continue southward through Redwood City, Menlo 
Park, and Palo Alto, the former location of Senator Stanford's 
famous stock farm, and now the site of Leland Stanford 
Junior University. 

There are several good hotels in San Jose, and a most inter- 
esting and beautiful country can be seen from here. To return 
to San Francisco in a day, however, and see the east side of 
the Bay, go northward by the Gish road and the Milpitas road 
to Irvington, and here take the right-hand road for Mission San 
Jose, 1 6 miles from the city of San Jose. This is a typical old 
California town. Relics of the mission and part of the old 
adobe buildings are still in the keeping of the church, and vis- 
itors are welcome. Near Irvington is the celebrated Lachman 
home, known as Palmdale, one of the most beautiful estates 
in California. 

From the southerly point of Lake Chabot the road turns 
where is located the largest single block nursery in the world. 
Here you take the boulevard for Ha^rvard, passing the Ma- 
sonic Home at Decoto. There is a delightful straight run to 
San Leandro and in to Oakland, by way of Elmhurst, Fitch- 
burg, Melrose, with its ostrich farm, Fruitvale and across Lake 
Merritt dam to Broadway, at the foot of which you take the 
Oakland Harbor Ferry, (Southern Pacific), for San Francisco. 

IV. MARIN COUNTY AND THE MT. TAMALPAIS COUNTRY. 

Marin is one of the most attractive touring counties in the 
State, with a varied scenery of ever changing charm. Here 
it is not a question which is the most beautiful route, but which 
of many beautiful ones to recommend for a day's tour. Prob- 
ably the most serviceable to suggest is to San Anselmo, Lagu- 
nitas Creek, San Geronimo and Petaluma. 

Take the Northwestern Pacific Ferry to Sausalito. Proceed 
northwesterly to Corte Madera, Larkspur, Kentfield and San 
Anselmo, all nestled in the picturesque valleys that radiate 
from the base of Tamalpais. 



324 Handbook for San Francisco 

From San Anselmo go north to Fairfax. Near Fairfax Is 
a well-known French-Italian restaurant, Pasloris, where one 
dines in a rustic portico over a stream. Beyond Fairfax you 
ascend the famous ''Whiles Hill.'' 

Past White's Hill, you begin to get into the mountains and 
among grand Coast Range scenery, witji forests on one side 
and cultivated hills and opens on the other. The road runs 
along Lagunitas creek to San Geronimo, Lagunitas and Camp 
Taylor, and shortly beyond Tocaloma you take a northeasterly 
course through open country to Petaluma. 

From Petaluma take the road back to San Rafael, a dis- 
tance of 20 miles. From this point you can take the road over 
the hill to Greenbrae, whence if you are curious about such 
ihinrs vcu can visit the State Penitentiary at San Quentin, or 
come directly back to Sausalito and San Francisco. 

Another fine trip in this region is to turn off from Fairfax 
to the southwest and go to Bolinas Ba^. The ocean views are 
superb. 

Another beautiful drive from Sausalito is to Greenbrae, 
thence southward to Tiburon and around the peninsula, over- 
looking Raccoon Straits to California C/^p, and return ; a dis- 
tance, one way, of approximately sixteen miles. San Rafael 
is easily reached from Greenbrae, and so is San Quentin. 

V. SONOMA VALLEY, THE GEYSERS, CLOVERDALE 
AND LAKE COUNTY. 

This journey is at your discretion. You can go as far and 
?tay as long as you like, in a country that is always beautiful, 
and that changes with every mile you make. 

North of Petaluma is a fairly level farming country, lying 
between bold hills, and affording smooth going, up to Santa 
Rosa. At Santa Rosa is what might be called the "home 
farm" of Luther Burbank, whose horticultural achievements 
jiave made hi? name famous all over the civilized world. 



Automobiling 325 



Healdsburg is northward, and here you begin to get into 
the enchanting valley of the Russian river, lined with fine vine- 
yards and broad orchard lands, all the way to Cloverdale. 

Just beyond Healdsburg a good road takes off for the 
Geijsers, a natural wonderland where one sees an enormous jet 
of steam rising mountain high, and other interesting phenomena. 
The Geysers are 1 8 miles from Healdsburg, and offer the 
traveler the refreshment of a steam bath, followed by a plunge 
into fresh or sulphur water. There is a good hotel. 

If you return to the main road from Healdsburg to Clover- 
dale you will soon arrive at Asii, where are located the vine- 
yards and huge wineries of the Italian-Swiss Colony,, one of 
the largest wine making concerns in California. Here is the 
largest wine vat in the world, a concrete cistern lined with 
glass, with a capacity of half a million gallons. Here also is 
California's largest champagne producing plant, and if you 
are there in May, June or July, you can see the highly inter- 
esting processes of bottling and "disgorging" champagne. 

Cloverdale, beyond Asti, and eighty miles north of San 
Francisco, is one of the beauty spots of California. Oranges, 
lemons and citrons grow in almost every garden. A mile be- 
yond Cloverdale is McCray's, or "The Old Homestead," a 
popular place for automobile parties. One can spend the 
night here and then go on up the Russian river valley to 
Pieta, in Mendocino county, whence a fine highway leads over 
the mountains to Highland Springs and Lake county. 

Lake County is the "Switzerland of California." Here, 
within a radius of twenty miles, are some of the most famous 
medicinal springs in the country, with mineral waters equal to 
those of some of the great European spas. Here also is Clear 
Lake, a fine sheet of water about ten miles in extreme width 
by twenty in length, on which there are launches and other 
small craft. Lakeport, on the western shore of the lake, is 
about eleven miles from Highland Springs, and thence there 
is a good road over the mountains to Bartlett Springs, one of 
the most popular resorts of the State. On this road one 



326 Handbook for San Francisco 

encounters grades of 8 to 10 per cent, but the views are well 
worth it. Other well-known resorts in this celebrated county 
are Ziegler Springs, Harbin Springs, Howard, Adams, Sara- 
toga, Witter, Anderson and Gordon Springs, and the Blue 
Lakes. 

A traveler by automobile can leave San Francisco on a Sat- 
urday, tour the whole of Lake county and be back by the fol- 
lowing Wednesday or Thursday. Or he can follow the Rus- 
sian river to Ukiah, county seat of Mendocino county, by 
green hop fields and through thick woods of maple, madrone 
and redwood, overgrown with wild grapes and other climbing 
vines, make a trip to the famous Vichy Springs with its "cham- 
pagne bath," go farther north to Willits, Sherwood and 
Eureka, and from there tour to the Oregon line and Crater 
lake. 

Closer to San Francisco one can turn off to the eastward, 
three or four miles north of Santa Rosa, to the Petrified Forest, 
where giant trees have been turned to stone, and then run over 
to Calistoga, at the foot of Mt. St. Helena and the head of 
the beautiful Napa Valley (see index), one of the garden 
spots of California. This valley is about 35 miles in length, 
and can be followed down by smooth roads, over fine stone 
bridges, past ivy-clad wineries and through the beautiful town of 
St. Helena and the thriving manufacturing community of Napa, 
to Vallejo, whence a return to San Francisco can be made by 
boat. 

VI. OAKLAND, LAKE CHABOT, PLEASANTON, MISSION SAN 

JOSE, HAYWARD. 

This is an irregular circuit of about 75 miles, leading 
through a fascinating country to one of the loveliest of lakes, 
to the Sunol Water Temple, to the old Spanish town of Mis- 
sion San Jose, and back by the Foothill Boulevard to Oakland 
and the ferry for San Francisco. It can be made in a day, 
leaving San Francisco by 9 a. m., and returning in time for 
dinner, with time for a picnic luncheon at Sunol if you wish. 



Automobiling 



327 




THE WATER TEMPLE AT SUNOL. 



■p. 



Take Oakland Harbor Ferry, at the slip south of the Ferry 
building, which runs half-hourly beginning at 6 a. m. This 
will land you at the foot of Broadway, Oakland. Run up 
Broadway to Twelfth street, turn to the right on Twelfth, 
cross the Lake Merritt dam, and just beyond the dam turn to 
the left into the Lake Shore Boulevard. Where this drive 
makes a bend to the left, following the margin of the lake, turn 
to the right instead, making a hairpin turn straight south one 
block to East Sixteenth street. Follow East Sixteenth east- 
wardly to Fourteenth avenue, where it turns to the left a short 
block; and proceed again eastwardly on East Sixteenth and 
cut the Foothill Boulevard. 

This is good going along the foothills, very beautiful here, 
with views across Oakland's inner harbor, crowded with the 
masts of sailing vessels. 

After crossing San Leandro creek on the concrete bridge, 
turn up hill to the left just before reaching old Hunters' Inn, 
now headquarters for an automobile club, and after a distance 
of about two blocks take the turn to the right, which will put 
you on the road to LaJ^e Chabot. 

From the southerly point of Lake Chabot the road turns 
southward (to the right), and after about five miles, with a 
left turn and a right turn, it will lead yov^ into the Dublin 



328 Handbool^ for San Francisco 

Cannon road a short distance east of Hayward. 

On reaching Dubhn, continue eastward to the first or second 
right turnout, and thence drop southward to Pleasanton. You 
are now in the lovely Livermore valley, between the north 
end of the Mt. Hamilton range and the south slopes of the 
Mt. Diablo range, a farming country as rich as it is beautiful. 

On a rise of ground near Pleasanton is the Hacienda of 
Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, where the grounds and gardens exhibit 
the full possibilities of a rich soil and the benign California 
climate. 

Southward from Pleasanton is the old town of Sunol, and 
near it the classic, circular Water Temple of the Spring Valley 
Water Company, the corporation which supplies San Francisco 
with water. 

A most enjoyable hour or two can be spent here. On 
leaving, go south over the hill to Mission San Jose, and back 
to San Francisco over the Foothill Boulevard by way of 
Hayward. 

VII. STOCKTON AND THE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY 

SACRAMENTO. 

The great interior valley of California can be reached by 
automobile from San Francisco with ease and comfort, and 
few trips will give a better idea of the agricultural character 
and resources of the State. It is level going, and full of variety 
and the most intense interest. 

Go to San Leandro by the Foothill Boulevard from Oak- 
land, as on the previously described trip, and from San Lean- 
dro continue to Hayward. From Hayward take the Dublin 
canyon road, and follow it eastward to Livermore and Tracy. 
Between these points, beyond Altamont, a road takes off for 
Byron Hot Springs. From Tracy there is no danger of get- 
ting off the Stockton road, which is a macadamized boulevard. 
From San Francisco to Stockton is about 80 miles, and the 
run can be made easily in four hours. 



Automobiling 329 



The return to this city from Stockton can be best made over 
the same route, except that one can vary it by coming through 
Mission San Jose. 

If it is desired to make a longer trip out of San Francisco 
and see more of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys, go 
north from Stockton about 47 miles to Sacramento. The road 
is a model smooth asphalt-macadam boulevard, running near 
Lodi, center of a great Tokay grape district, a region that 
supplies fancy table grapes to Chicago and New York; through 
Gait, the center of a rich farming region, and on across the 
Cosumnes river to the Capital of the State. Some of the 
attractions of Sacramento have been noted in another part 
of this book, and can be found by consulting the index. 

LAKE TAHOE. 

From Sacramento there is a fine road to Folsom, site of 
one of the State penitentiaries, a good road from Folsom to 
Placerville, and from Placerville another fine stretch of road 
up into the mountains to Tallac, on Lake Tahoe. As this is 
being written, the State Engineer's forces are constructing a 
road around the western rim of the lake, by Emerald Bay, to 
Tahoe Tavern. Thus a wonderland of mountain scenery as 
grand and beautiful as any to be found in Europe is brought 
within easy automobile travel from San Francisco. 

VIII. CLAREMONT, WALNUT CREEK, MARTINEZ, THE 

GRAND STRAITS VIEV/. 
This trip will show you wonderful scenery — the road from 
Martinez to Port Costa, narrow and crooked, but affording a 
panorama and water view nothing less than sublime. It is 
better not to attempt it in the rainy season. 

Take the Oakland Harbor Ferry to the foot of Broadway, 
Oakland. Run out Broadway as far as Telegraph avenue, 
out Telegraph avenue to Claremont avenue, out Claremont 
avenue to Claremont, with its fine hotel, and here take the 
"Tunnel Road" to Contra Costa county, Lafayette and Wal- 



330 Handbook for San Francisco 

nut Creek. From Walnut Creek, go northward through Pa- 
checo to Martinez. Mt. Diablo will be on your right. Its 
forested slopes and long green canyons winding down to the 
plain on which you are riding make a grand landscape. 

From Martinez take the Port Costa road. It mounts the 
hills above the railroad track, skirts the heights from two to 
three hundred feet above the water, and in places more, winds 
up to the heads of long gullies and runs out in startling hairpin 
bends around the contours of ridges where a timid traveler 
may have some breathless moments — and, to repeat, it should 
not be undertaken except when the roads are dry, and then only 
by experienced drivers. But here is one of the great views of 
the continent. 

You look down on the Straits of CarquineZy one of the sig- 
nificant water passes of the western world, for it carries the 
drainage and a large part of the commerce of the interior 
valleys of California down to the Bay and the city by the 
Golden Gate. It gleams and shines directly below you from 
a dozen different turns of this crooked road. It bears Italian 
salmon boats, barges, river craft with garden produce and with 
more substantial commodities from up the Sacramento or the 
San Joaquin — square-nosed "hookers" with baled hay or huge 
deck-loads of raw wool, or sacked wheat and barley. On 
the opposite shore is Benicia, and, down stream, Vallejo, with 
Mare Island, where the United States Navy Yard is located. 
There is a long jetty running out to confine the current and 
keep sufficient depth in the channel. Beyond are rolling, 
tumbling hills, framing broad and fertile valleys. 

From Port Costa one can run in to Oakland by way of 
Crockett, Pinole and San Pablo, within sight of the bay almost 
all the distance, and down San Pablo avenue through West 
Berkeley to Broadway, Oakland, at the foot of which thor- 
oughfare is the Oakland Harbor Ferry for San Francisco. On 
another day, you can make a trip by the Tunnel Road to 



Auiomobiling 33 



IX. MOUNT DIABLO. 

This mountain rises over 4,000 feet and because of its 
central location gives one of the most magnificent views in the 
State. A good automobile road now runs to the summit, where, 
in days of old, travelers used to ascend by a horse-drawn 
stage coach from Oakland and feel that they were more than 
repaid by the grand landscape. 

From the top you look out westward over the Bay of San 
Francisco, and the city, if it is clear; out the Golden Gate, 
and up the velvet Hanks of Tamalpais. San Pablo Bay, Car- 
quinez Straits and Suisun Bay are part of the wondrous pic- 
ture. You can see the great rivers of California and their 
delta lands, the northern end of the San Joaquin and southern 
end of the Sacramento valleys ; the range of the Sierra Nevada 
mountains, sharply serrated, spread with great snow fields, 
from the region of Mt. Shasta to the region of Mt. Whitney. 
You can see, also, Mt. Hamilton as a near neighbor, and the 
Santa Clara valley at its feet. 

X. MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, DEL MONTE, MONTEREY, 

PACIFIC GROVE. 

It is 127 miles from San Francisco to the famous California 
travel resort of Del Monte, by way of San Jose and Gilroy; 
and three miles and a half farther to Pacific Grove, through 
Monterey, the old Spanish capital of California. It is an easy 
and beautiful day's ride, one way. As you can get good 
accommodations at any of the points mentioned on Monterey 
Bay, it would be better to take two days at least for this 
tour, and add to it the 1 7-mile ocean shore drive out of Del 
Monte or Pacific Grove, with its recent extensions. 

Run straight down to San Jose from this city, a distance 
of 52. ] miles by the road. From San Jose follow First street 
southeast, down the center of the Santa Clara valley to Gilroy. 

This is old, Spanish California, a chosen land of priest 
and hidalgo, of mission and cattle barony, and of an idyllic 
life in a land of sunshine and plenty. 



332 



Handboolf for San Francisco 




IN THE DEL MONTE GROUNDS. 



From Gilroy go souih by way of Sargent to old San Juan. 
Here a modern town has grown up, but it is behind the plaza 
and hidden from it. Once in the three-sided square of Spanish 
times, and the scene is the same as it was a hundred years ago. 
For information on the Mission San Juan Bautista, see index. 

A delightful side trip of eight miles up the little San Juan 
valley will bring you to Hollister, one of the prettiest towns 
in California, and the county seat of San Benito county. Or 
you can take the road direct from San Juan southerly, and 
then southwesterly over the hills to Salinas, being careful to 
take the left turn, due south, at Santa Rita. Three miles 
south of Salinas you come to the Sprec^els beet sugar refinery), 
at Spreckels. The main building here is 103 feet wide, 500 
feet long, and six stories high, and can dispose of 3,000 tons 
of beets in 24 hours. When in operation it employs from 
800 to 1 ,000 men and can turn out half a million 1 00-pound 
bags of sugar in a season's ryn of 70 days, It is a jungle 



Automobiling 



333 




Tibbitts, photo 
MIDWAY POINT, 17-MILE DRIVE, MONTEREY COUNTY. 

of pumps, presses, vacuum pans, and mazes of electrically 
operated tram ways, well worth stopping a few minutes to see, 
if you can gain admittance. 

On Monterey Bay one reaches the 125-acre park in which 
is situated the Hotel Del Monte. These grounds contain 
every form of plant life that can be made to grow in this 
genial climate, and in addition there are golf links and tennis 
courts where the finest of outdoor sport can be enjoyed right 
through the winter. 

Some of the charms of old Monterey, and Pacific Grove, 
we have attempted to note elsewhere in this book, and at least 
some mention of them can be found by consulting the index. 
Readily accessible from these points is the famous Seventeen- 
Mile Drive, with possibilities of extending it, and taking in 
Carmel Bay, Carmel Mission and the literary colony at Car- 
mel-by-the-Sea. No traveler that has the time should omit 
this excursion. The views of the ocean with its broken shore 



334 



Handbool^ for San Francisco 



line, its bits of beach and rocky coast, of the sand dunes lying 
inland sometimes under pme woods, and the strange forms of 
the Monterey cypresses, like gnarled and twisted cedars of 
Lebanon, make a changing panorama such as you will find 
nowhere else except on the canvases of some of our enthusias- 
tic California painters. At Carmel Mission Padre Junipero 
Serra is buried, and the church contains many interesting relics. 




BIG KEDWOODS AT SANTA CRUZ. 
XI. SANTA CRUZ, BY WAY OF SAN JOSE AND LOS GATOS. 

Santa Cruz is the popular seaside resort at the north end 
of Monterey Bay. Near it is a grove of gigantic Sequoia 
Sempervirens, individual specimens of which rank, for size, 
with some of the Big Trees in the Sierra. Two days at 
least should be given this expedition. 

Go south to San Jose as directed for trips II and III, leave 
San Jose by way of Market street and San Carlos street, and 
continue southward to Los Gatos. Or, if you have seen San 



Automobiling 335 



Jose, you can save some 14 miles by taking off to the right 
at Mayfield and running along the foot of the hills to Los 
Gatos. 

From Los Gatos take the canyon road through the Santa 
Cruz mountains to Soquel, overlooking the Bay of Monterey. 
The run through the mountains will take you through 1 3 miles 
of wonderful scenery, the climax of which will be the grand 
views, from the down grade, into the amphitheater of Monterey 
Bay. 

From Soquel to Santa Cruz you will run along the rim of 
the bay for four miles, the mountains marching on your right 
and the blue waters of the bay breaking into snow-white surf 
on the yellow sands below. 

When you have reached Santa Cruz you will have made 
90 miles from San Francisco. Here are fine bathing beaches, 
a swimming tank, a great casino, two or three good hotels, 
one of the finest golf courses in California, and in the vicinity 
many summer homes of San Franciscans. 

If you stop over at Santa Cruz, you will find it an easy 
and delightful ride up the San Lorenzo river into the Santa 
Cruz mountains to the Big Trees, Felton and Boulder Creek. 
From Boulder Creek it is about ten miles into the Big Basin, 
a State park consisting of 3,800 acres of magnificent virgin 
California forest, with a grove of monster Sequoia Semper- 
virens. 

Returning to San Francisco, you have a choice between 
the route you took going down and the Bear Creek route, 
which will take you through 40 miles of the most romantic 
scenery imaginable. 

It would take a larger volume than this even to enumerate 
the interesting automobile trips one can make from San Fran- 
cisco. The above, however, will furnish a suggestion of the 
varied topography of the neighborhood, and the beauties and 
sublimities of California scenes. 



336 Handboof^ for San Francisco 

Automobile, Taxicab and 
Carriage Fares 

Automobiles can be hired at rates varying from $2.50 to $4.50 per hour, 
according to the capacity and quality of the vehicle. 

At the time this book went to press, October, 1913, the following were the 
legal inaximum rates. 

AUTOMOBILES 

FOUR-PASSENGER CAPACITY, EXCLUSIVE OF DRIVER 

First half hou/ or fraction thereof $2 .00 

Each subsequent hour 3 . 50 

SIX-PASSENGER CAPACITY, EXCLUSIVE OF DRIVER 

First half hour or fraction thereof $2 . 50 

Each sub.seqent hour 4 . 50 

TAXICABS (Meter Rates) 

TARIFF No. 1 (1 OR 2 PASSENGERS) 

First 3-5 mile or fraction thereof $ .60 

Each 1-5 of a mile thereafter 10 

Each three minutes of waiting 10 

TARIFF No. 2 (3 OR 4 PASSENGERS) 

First i mile or fraction thereof 60 

Each 1-6 of a mile thereafter 10 

Each three minutes of waiting 10 

For each additional passenger over four persons for the entire journey 50 

TAXICABS (Hour Rates) 

For a taxicab by the hour $3 . 50 

First half hour or fraction thereof 2 . 00 

The passenger, when engaging a taxicab, must state whether he will employ 
it by meter or hour rates. 

CARRIAGES AND HACKS 

TWO-HORSE CARRIAGE, FOUR PASSENGERS OR LESS 

First half hour or fraction thereof $1 .00 

Each subsequent half hour 1 . 00 

Waiting time to be at above rates. 

TWO-HORSE COUPE OR HACK, TWO PASSENGERS OR LESS 

First half hour or fraction thereof $ .75 

Each subsequent half hour 75 

FLAT RATES TO DOWNTOWN HOTELS 

Taxicabs, automobiles and carriages are required by the city ordinances to 
carry passengers from the Ferry Depot, the Third and Townsend Street railroad 
depot or the steamboat landings and steamship docks to any of the downtown 
hotels located in the " Downtown Hotel District" for a flat rate. This rate 
had not been finally established at the time this book went to press. Drivers 
will furnish the flat rate upon demand. The above flat rate does not apply to 
limousines or seven-passenger touring cars furnished upon special call and not 
occupying public space for hire. 



Street Car Routes 337 



STREET CAR ROUTES 



Numbered Lines of the United Railroads 
Electric Cars 



Car 1, Sutter and California. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Sutter to 
Presidio Avenue to California to 33rd via Scenic Boulevard to Sutro Heights. 

Car 2, Sutter and Clement. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Sutter to 
Presidio Avenue to California to Parker Avenue to Euclid Avenue to Arguello 
Boulevard to Clement to 33rd to Geary to Sutro Baths. 

Car 3, Sutter and Jackson. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Sutter to 
Fillmore to Jackson to Presidio Avenue to California. 

Car 4, Turk and Eddy. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Eddy to Divisa- 
dero to Sacramento to Lake to Sixth to Clement to Eighth to Fulton to Sixth to 
Lake to Sacramento to Divisadero to Turk to Mason to Eddy to Market, starting 
point. Cars start at Powell, Market and Eddy Streets, from 4:35 p. m. to 6:39 
p. m. 

Car 5, McAllister. Out Market from Ferry Depot to McAllister to Fulton 
to Beach. 

Car 6, Hayes. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Hayes to Fillmore to Page 
to Masonic to Frederick to Clayton to Carl to Stanyan to Parnassus to Judah 
to Ninth Avenue to Forest Hill. 

Car 7, Haight. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Haight to Golden Gate 
Park. 

Car 8, Market. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Castro to 18th. 

Car 9, Valencia. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Valencia to Mission to 
29th to Noe. 

Car 10, Sunnyside (Glen Park). Out Mission from Ferry Depot to 14th 
to Guerrero to San Jose Avenue to 30th to Chenery to Diamond to San Jose 
Avenue to Sunnyside Avenue to Genessee. 

Car 11, Mission and Twenty-fourth. Out Mission from Ferry Depot to 
22nd to Dolores to 24th to Hoffman Avenue: returning via same route except 
between 22nd and 22th, on Chattanooga instead of Dolores. 

Car 12, Ingleside. Out mission from Ferry Depot to Onondaga to Ocean 
Avenue to Sloat Boulevard to the Beach. 

Car 14, Cemeteries. Out Mission from Ferry Depot to Daly City and 
Colma to Cemeteries, via San Jose^Road. Line runs only to Daly City after 
7;07p. m. ^.^±.^^^^^. ^.^^ .^ 

Car 15, Third, Kearny and North Beach. From Third and Townsend 
via Third to Kearny to Broadway to Powell to Jefferson: returning from 
Jefferson to Powell, via Powell, to Columbus Avenue to Union to Stockton to 
Broadway to Kearny ^q Third to To^j:if?end St. Deoot. 



338 Handbook for San Francisco 



Car 16, Third and Kentucky — Ferry. From Ferry Depot via Embarca- 
(lero to Broadway to Kearny to Third to Berry to Fourth to Kentucky to 
Railroad Avenue to 32nd . 

Railroad Avenue Extension. From 32nd and Railroad Avenue via Rail- 
road Avenue to San Bruno Avenue to Milliken Avenue to Sunnydale Avenue 
to Six Mile House. 

Car 17, Ellis and Ingleside. From Third and Townsend via Townsend 
to Fourth to Ellis to Divisadeto to Page to Stanyan to Frederick to Lincoln Way 
to Twentieth to W. Street to 19th Avenue to Sloat Boulevard to Ocean Avenue 
to Ingleside Terrace. 

Car 18, Mission. From Fifth and Market via Fifth to Mission to Onondaga 
Avenue. 

Note: — Sundays the line is extended to Holy Cross via Mission and San Jose 
Road . 

Car 19, Ninth and Polk. From Polk and Lombard via Polk to Post to 
Larkin crossing Market to Ninth to Brannan. 

Car 20, Ellis and Ocean. From Third and Townsend via Townsend to 
Fourth to Ellis to Divisadero to Page to Stanyan to Frederick to Lincoln Way 
to 49th Avenue to B Street: returning via 49th Avenue to Lincoln Way to 
Frederick to Stanyan to Oak to Divisadero to O'Farrell to Hyde to ElUs to 
Fourth to Townsend to starting point. 

Car 21, Hayes and Ellis. From Fourth and Market via Ellis to Divisadero 
to Hayes to Stanyan to Fulton: returning via Stanyan to Hayes to Divisadero 
to O'Farrell to Hyde to Ellis to starting point. 

Car 22, Fillmore and Sixteenth. From Broadway and Fillmore via 
Fillmore to Duboce to Church to 16th to Bryant. 

Note: — From 6:37^ a. ni. to 8:25 a. m., and from 4:29 p. m. to 5:49 p. m., in 
addition to the above mentioned route, the line runs over the following exten- 
sion; from 16th and Bryant to Kansas to 17th to Connecticut to 18th to Ken- 
tucky to 23rd. 

Fillmore Hill. This extension of Line No. 22 runs from Broadway and 
FiUmore via Fillmore to the Bay (the entrance to the Exposition Grounds). 

Car 23, Fillmore and Valencia. From Divisadero and Sacramento via 
Sacramento to Fillmore to McAllister to Gough to Market to Valencia to Mis- 
sion to Richland Avenue. 

Note: — On Sundays only this line is extended from Divisadero and Sacra- 
mento via Sacramento to First Avenue to Lake to Sixth to Fulton to Eighth to 
Clement to Sixth to Lake to First Avenue to Sacramento. 

Car 24, Mission and Richmond. From Bank Street and Cortland Avenue 
via Cortland Avenue to Mission to 16th to Church to Duboce to Fillmore to Oak . 
to Divisadero to Sacramento to Lake to Sixth to Fulton to Eighth to Clement 
to Sixth to Lake to Sacramento to Divisadero to Page to Fillmore to Duboce to 
Church to 16th to Mission to Cortland Avenue and Bank Street. 

Car 25, San Bruno. From Fifth and Market via Fifth to Bryant to Army to 
San Bruno Road to Dwight. 

Note: — Line terminates at 22nd and Mission after 8 p. m. 

Car 26, Guerrero (Ocean View). From Ferry Depot via Mission to 14th to 
Guerrero to San Jose Avenue to 30th to Chenery to Diamond to San Jose Avenue 
to Daly City. 

Car 27, Bryant. From 2nd and Market via 2nd to Bryant, to 26th to 
Mission: returning via 26th to Bryant, to 10th to Brannan, to 2nd to Market, 
Note: — Line terminates at Fifth and Market after 7:50 p. m. 



Street Car Routes 339 



Unnumbered Lines 

(ELECTRIC CABS) 

Divisadero Street Extension. The line runs on Divisadero from Sacra- 
mento to Jackson com ecting with hnes numbered 3, 4 and 24. 

Eighteenth and Park. From Stanyan and Waller to Clayton to Frederick 
to Ashbury to Casselli Avenue to Falcon Avenue to 18th to Guerrero to 14th to 
Harrison to Third. 

Note: Line runs only to 8th and Harrison after 7:04 p. m. 

Parkside. From 35th and Sloat Boulevard via 35th to V Street to 33rd 
Avenue to T Street to 20th Avenue. 

San Mateo. From 5th and Market to 5th to Mission to San Jose road to 
Cemeteries to Burlingame to San Mateo. 

Visitacion. From Mission and Geneva Avenue via Geneva Avenue to 
Walbridge Avenue to Schwerin to McDonald to County Line to Milliken Avenue 
to Sunnydale Avenue to Six Mile House. 

South San Francisco, Railroad and Peninsula Co. (South City Line.) 
From Paint Factory via P. R. W. to South City (South San Francisco) to Holy 
Cross cemetery. 

Twenty-second and Howard. From Army and Precita via Army, Folsom, 
26th, Howard, 22nd, Chattanooga, 24th to Hoffman Avenue: returning via 24th 
Dolores, 22nd, Howard, 26th, Folsom, Precita to Army. 

Bosworth Street. From Glen Park and Berkshire via Berkshire to Bos- 
worth to Mission. 

Folsom. From Precita Avenue and Folsom ^da Folsom to Embarcadero to 
the Ferry Depot. 

Howard Line. From Rhode Island and 24th, via 24th, to Howartl to 
Embarcadero to Ferry Depot. Line runs to 22nd and Mission after 12:20 a. m. 

Montgomery and Tenth. From 10th and Bryant, via 10th, Polk, Grove, 
City Hall Avenue, to Leavenworth to Post to Montgomery to Washington to 
Kearny. 

Sixth and Sansome. From Sixth and Brannan, via 6th Street to Taylor 
to Post to Kearny to Bush to Sansome to Chestnut. 

Mission and Ocean. (Sundays and Holidays only). From the Beach via 
Sloat Boulevard to Ocean Avenue to Onondaga to Mission to 8th to Market. 

Eighth and Eighteenth Streets Line. From 23r(l and Kentucky, via 
Kentucky, to 18th to Connecticut to 17th to Kansas to 16th to Bryant to 8th 
to Market. From 5:45 a. m. to 8:42 a. m. and from 4:18 p. m. to 6:36 p. m, 
this Une runs to 18th and Railroad Avenue. 

Harrison Street. From Third and Townsend, via 3rd, to Brannan to 2nd to 
Bryant to Stanley Place to Harrison to Steuart to Howard to Embarcadero to 
the Ferry Depot. 

First and Fifth Streets. From Fifth and Market, via 5th, to Brannan to 
2nd to Folsom to 1st to Bush: alternating trip to Battery and California: re- 
turning via 1st to Folsom to 2nd to Brannan to 3rd to Townsend to 4th to 
Brannan to 5th to Market. After 6 p. m. this line runs from 2nd and Market to 
Bryant and Alameda Streets, from 2nd and Market via 2nd Street to Bryant to 
Alameda: returning via Bryant to 10th to Brannan to 2nd to Market. 

Union Street Line. From Ferry Depot via Embarcadero to Washinaton to 
Montgomery to Columbus Avenue to Union to Larkin to Vallejo to Franklin to 
Union to Lyon into the Presidio Reservation : returning over same route to the 
Embarcadero via Jackson instead of Washington. (To be operated as a munici- 
pal line in 1914.) 



340 Handbool^ for San Francisco 

CABLE LINES 

Castro Cable. From 26th and Castro via Castro to 18th and Castro. 

Jackson Cable. From Jackson and Steiner, via Steiner, to Washington to 
Powell to Market: returning via same route except from Powell to Steiner via 
Jackson instead of Washington. 

Powell Cable. From Bay and Taylor, via Taylor, to Columbus Avenue to 
Mason to Washington to Powell to Market: returning via same route, excejlt over 
Jackson between Powell and Mason instead of Washington. 

SacrameTitO Cable. Froin Fillmore and Sacramento, via Sacrainento, to 
Larkin to Clay to Embarcadero to Ferry Depot: returning via Embarcadero to 
Sacramento to Fillmore. 

Pacific Avenue Cable. From Divisadero and Pacific Avenue, via Pacific 
Avenue, to Polk Street. 



The Geary Street Municipal Line 

(ELECTRIC) 

Line A. From Ferry Depot out Market to Geary to Tenth Avenue to Golden 
Gate Park. 

Liae B. From Ferry Depot out Market to Geary to 33rd to Balboa to 45th 
to Cabrillo to the Great Highway. 

Note. — Additional municipal lines will be in operation by 1915. 



California Street Cable Railway Company 

(CABLE) 

California Street Line. From California and Market, via California, to 
Presidio Avenue. 

Hyde and O'Farrell Line. From Market and O'Farrell, via O'Farrell, to 
Jones to Pine to Hyde to North Point Street. 

Jones Street Line. Runs on Jones from O'Farrell to Market. 



INDEX TO HANDBOOK 



Page Nos. 

Alameda 262 

Alcatraz Island 1 89 

Alligator Farm 98 

Alpine Drive 3 1 5 

American Institute of Banking. 204 
Amundsen's Sloop "Gjoa". ... 155 
Andrews Diamond Palace.... 59 

Angel Island 95 

Anza, Juan Bautista 7 

Ayala, Lieut 7 

Appraisers Building 89 

Armory 11 3 

Art Association, San Francisco 160 

Ashbury Reservoir 100 

Asti 283-284-325 

Atchison, Topeka and Santa 

Fe Ry 47 

Auditoriums 1 30 

Automobiling 315 to 335 

Baggage 31 

Bakers Beach 95 

Band Concerts in the Park . . 1 52 

Bank Exchange 138 

Banks and Finance . . . .203 to 208 

Banks and Clearings .203 

Baseball 240 

Baths and Natatoria 47 

Battery, Spencer 187 

Bay Excursions 254 

Belvedere 271 

Benicia 290 

Berkeley • . . . 265 

Berkeley and the University of 

California 265 

Berkeley Christian Science 

Church 267 

Big Basin, California Redwood 

Park 300 

Big Trees 309 

Black Point Cove 188 

B'nai Brith 210 

Board of Trade 231 

JBoat Houses 246 

Book Stores 62-198 

Books on San Francisco 190 



Page Nos. 

Bowling on the Green 251 

Broderick, Senator 13 

Bryce's Description 19 

Buena Vista Park 114 

Buffalo Herd 152 

Burbank's Farm at Santa Rosa 281 

Cafes 50 

California City 324 

California Development Board 164 

California Indians 163 

California Market 180 

California Street Cable 92 

Calistoga 286 

Calvary Cemetery 1 40 

Camera Club 227 

Camp Meeker 282 

Capitol of California 291 

Carmel Mission 334 

Carquinez Straits and Power 

Line 288-330 

Casey, James P • • 11 

Cemeteries 1 39 

Cemeteries in San Mateo 

County no 

Chamber of Commerce 231 

Chess and Checker Club ..... 193 
Chinese Funeral and Wedding 70 
Chinese Mortuary Chapel .... 1 85 
Chinatown Telephone Exchange 73 

Chinese Newspaper 77 

Chinese Festivities 80 

Chinese Processional Dragon . 1 59 

Chinese Restaurants 71 

Christian Science Church at 

Berkeley 267 

Churches 116 to 127 

Circuit Court of Appeals 1 72 

City Hall (temporary location) 177 

City Prison 1 73 

Civic Center 175 

Claremont 262 

Claus Spreckels Building 65 

Cliff House 97 

Climate 20 

Cloverdale 2o3 

i 



Page Nos. 

Cloverdale Citrus Fair 284 

Clubs and Societies 223 

Colombo Market 161 

Commercial Organizations ... .231 

Comstock Lode CO 

Comstock Mines 15 

Conflagration of 1906 17 

Cook & Sons, Thos 46 

Coppa's Restaurant 1 38 

Council of Women 227 

County Relief Home 99 

Cricket 242 

Criminal Courts 1 72 

Crocker Art Gallery 291 

Crossley Reflector 297 

Crystal Lakes 231 

Custom House 89 

Customs Regulations 22 

Desolation Valley 313 

Dewey Monument 62 

Diamond Palace 59 

Drake's Bay 186 

Dublin Canyon Road 327 

Dunning, W. H. & Co 46 

Dutch Windmill 155 

Del Monte 300 

East Shore Cities ....257 to 262 

Educational Facilities 210 

El Camino Real 148 

Elder's Book Store 162 

Electioneer's Skeleton 215 

Elk's Hall 210 

Emanu-El 62 

Embarcadero 9-27 

Emperor Norton 190 

Ems-Bourne Tours Co. (Ltd.) 46 

Episcopal Cathedral 90 

Eschscholtzia Californica .... 184 

Exposition Tour Co 46 

Express Offices 221 

Emergency Hospitals 220 

Fallen Leaf Lake 237 

Ferry Boats 254 to 257 

Ferry Building 85 

Fisherman's Wharf 102 

Fishing 234 

Fly Casting 238 

Football 241 

Foothill Boulevard 260 



Page Nos. 

Foieword 

Fort Baker 273 

Fort Barry 274 

Fort Gunnybags 12 

Fort Mason 188 

F'ort Miley 187 

Fort McDowell 95 

Fort Point 28 

Fort Winfield Scott 107-274 

Fruits — See California Devel- 
opment Board 164 

Fruit Pests 29 

French Restaurants 51 

Caspar de Portola 7 

German House 210 

Getting Up Town 30 

Geysers of California 284 

Gjoa 155 

Glass-bottomed Boat 302 

Glen Alpine Springs 312 

Goat Island 24 

Gold Discovered 291 

Gold Production — See Mining 

Bureau 1 66 

Golden Gate 19 

Golden Gate Park 149 

Golf 246 

Great Circle Route 6 

Great Highway 20 

Greek Catholic Cathedral .... 106 

Greek Colony 56 

Greek Theater — Berkeley .... 265 

Grills ... 56 

Grove- Play of the Bohemian 

Club 224 

Guerneville 281 

Gulf of the Farallones ....6-28 

Half Moon Bay 298 

Hall of Justice 172 

Hall of Records 99 

Hamman Baths 48 

Handball 248 

Harbor View 1 88 

Havens Art Gallery 264 

Hayward 260 

Healdsburg 283-284 

Hearst Collections — 

Anthropology 161 

High Buildings 65 

Horseback Riding 240 



Page Nos. 

Horseshoe Roule 262 

Hospitals and Sanatoria ... .218 

Hotel Del Monte 300 

Hotels 32 to 46 

House-numbering Plan 20 

Hunters' Point Drydocks 25 

Hunting Licenses 239 

Huntington Falls 1 54 

Hyde & O'Farrell Street Cars 92 

Indian Basketry 163 

Information Bureau 46 

Insectary 291 

Institute of Art 160 

Inverness and Tomales Bay ..282 

Ishi 163 

Islais Creek 110 

James King of William 11 

Japanese Stores 71 

Japanese Tea Garden 1 53 

Jenny Lind Theater 1 73 

Junipero Serra 7-302 

Key Trolley Trip ......... .262 

King, Thomas Starr 13 

Knights of Columbus Hall... 210 

La Honda 322 

Lake Chabot 268 

Lake County 325 

Lake Merced • • 113 

Lake Merritt 259 

Lake Shore Boulevard 327 

Lake Tahoe 312 

Latin Quarter 88 

Laurel Hill 141 

Leland Stanford Junior 

University 214 

Letterman Hospital 219 

Libraries 1 92 

Lick Monument 99 

Lick Observatory 296 

Lime Point 28 

Lincoln Park 184 

Lloyd Lake 154 

Lone Mountain 139 

Lolta's Fountain 133 

Mail Docks 84 

Mare Island Navy Yard 285 

Marin and Sonoma Counties . .280 



Page Noi. 

Markets 180 

Marshall Square 99 

Masonic Cemeteries 144 

Masonic Home 323 

Masonic Temple 209 

Medal Presented to San Fran- 
cisco 1 59 

Medical and Law Colleges ..211 

Memorial Museum 1 56 

Merchants Exchange 231 

Mill Valley 283 

Mills Building 61 

Mills College 216 

Mining Bureau 166 

Mint 167 

Minting, private 171 

Mission Dolores 145 

Mission San Jose . . .323 and 261 
Mission San Juan Bautista. . . 303 

"Mission" The 113 and 110 

Missions of California 303 

Model City Prison 1 73 

Model Yacht Regattas 155 

Money 22 

Monte Rio 282 

Monterey 301 

Montgomery Block 136 

Monuments and Landmarks ..131 

Ml. Diablo 27-331 

Mt. Diablo Country 262 

Mt. Hamilton and Lick Ob- 
servatory 296 

Mt. Olympus 134 

Mt. Sutro 99 

Mt. Tamalpais 275 to 279 

Mountaineering 253 

Mountaineering — See Sierra 

Club under "Clubs'* 226 

Muir Woods 279 

Museum of Anthropology .... 161 
Museum of Casts — Berkeley. .267 
Museum of Vertebrate Zo- 
ology — Berkeley 267 

Napa 287 

Napa Valley 286-287 

National Cemetery 317 

National Guard Armory .... I 13 
Native Sons of the Golden 

West 64 and 210 

Netherlands Route . 288 

Newspaper Square 25-27 



HI 



Page Nos. 

Nob Hill 16-89 

Northwestern Pacific . .47 and 256 
Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe 102 

Oakland 258 

Ocean Shore Railroad 298 

Odd Fellows Cemetery 143 

Odd Fellows Hall 210 

Old Cemeteries 139 

"Old St. Mary's" 93-136 

Olympic Club 224 

Ostrich Farm 98 

Pacific Gas and Electric Map. 62 

Pacific Grove 302 

Pacific Heights 108 

Pacific Railroad 14 

Palmdale 261 

Panama-Pacific International 

Exposition 28-177 

Panama-Pacific Site 105 

Park, Golden Gate 149 

Pebble Beach 322 

Peck-Judah Co, Inc 46 

Pescadero 322 

Petaluma 281 

Petrified Forest 326 and 286 

Photography — See "Clubs" . .227 

Piedmont 261 

Piedmont Art Gallery 264 

Point Bonita 28-274 

Point Lobos 28 

Polo 250 

Population 17 

Portals of the Past 1 54 

Portsmouth Square 10-173 

Position 18 

Post Office 171 

Potrero 25 

Prayer Book Cross 1 54 

Presidio 1 06 

Presidio Terrace 318 

Press 199 to 203 

Private Minting 171 

Produce District 88 

Pullman 270 

Pumping Station No. 1.84 and 109 

Railroad Offices 46 

Raymond and Whitcomb . . . 46 
Reservoir on Twin Peaks .... 100 
Restaurants, Cafes and Grills. . 50 



Page Nos. 

Richmond 269 

Rifle and Revolver Shooting. .252 

Rincon Hill 114 

Rincon Point 85 

River Boats 254 to 257 

Robertson's Book Store 198 and 62 

Ross 283 

Rowing 246 

Russian Hill 90 

Russian River 282 

Sacramento 290 

Sacramento River — 

Netherlands Route ..288 to 291 

St. Helena 287 

St. Mary's College 218 

San Anselmo 282 

San Francisco — -the name .... 10 

San Francisco Bay 18 

San Jose 294 

San Juan 305 

San Leandro 268 

San Mateo Ill 

San Rafael 280 

Santa Clara 295 

Santa Clara Valley 294 

Santa Cruz 299 

Santa Rosa 281 

Santa Rosa and Burbank's Ex- 
perimental Farm 281 

Saratoga 295 

Sausalito 270 

School of Design 1 60 

Schools 211 

Scottish Rite Temple 210 

Seal Rocks 98 

Seventeen Mile Drive 303 

Sierra Club 226 

Sierra Nevada 253 

Sightseeing Automobile Cars . . 131 

Six Companies 76 

Sonoma 283 

Sonoma County 280 

Southern Pacific Co 46 

Sports 233 to 253 

Spreckels Beet Sugar Refinery 332 

Spreckels Lake 155 

Stadium 155 

Standard Oil Building ....;. 61 

Stanford University 214 

State Flower — Eschscholtzla 

Callfornica 1 84 



Page Nos. 
Statistics of California — See 
California Development 

Board 165 

Steamship Lines of San Fran- 
cisco 222 

Stevenson Monument 135 

Stock Exchange 60 

Stockton 293 

Stow Lake 1 54 

Street Railway Trips 91 

Street Railways and Routes 91 &337 
Summer School — Berkeley ...213 

Superior Court 1 73 

Sutro Baths 48 and 97 

Sutro Gardens 95 

Sutro Museum 97 

Sutter's Fort 291 

Tahoe, L ake 312 

Tamalpais 24 

Tanforan Ill 

Taxicab Rates 336 

Telegraph Hill 25-87 

Telegraph Offices 221 

Temple of Quan Dai 77 

Temple of Queen of Heaven 74 

Tennis 248 

Tetrazzini Tablet 133 

Tivoli Opera House. . .64 and 128 

Theaters 127 to 130 

Third and Townsend Depot . . 109 

Ticket Offices 46 

Tomales Bay 282 

Tomb of Thomas Starr King. . 127 

Tourist Agencies 46 

Track and Field 242 

Transport Docks 28-29- 18S 

Trap Shooting 252 

Triangle Trip 280 



Page Nos. 

7 rotting Races 251 

Turkish Baths 48 

Turn Verein 228 

Twin Peaks 319 

Union Iron Works 109 

Union Square 62 

U. S. Mint 167 

U. S. Sub-treasury 61 

University of California . .212-265 
University of St. Ignatius ....217 
University of Santa Clara ... .218 

Validating Tickets 46 

Vallejo 286 

Vessel Movements 47 

Vigilance Committee 11 

Violet Fields at Colma 321 

Water Front 84 

Water Temple at Sunol 328 

Western Pacific 47 

What Cheer House 142 

What To Eat 50 

Wholesale Flower Market ... 182 

Winehaven 270 

Wishbone Route 322 

Woman's Occidental Board of 

Foreign Missions 76 

V/oodward's Gardens 1 42 

Yachting 243 

Yerba Buena 7 

Yerba Buena Cove 131 

Yerba Buena Island 24 

Yosemlte Valley 306 

Y. M. C. A 210 

Y. M. 1 210 

Y. W. C. A. 210 



Press of 

Phillips & Van Orden Co. 

San Francisco 



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